Jordan Wright
November 25, 2014
Special to The Alexandria Times
 Peach Brandy launch – Photo credit DISCUS Eight hundred eagerly-anticipated bottles of George Washington’s limited edition Peach Brandy Eau de Vie (translation: “water of life”) went onto the shelves of the Mount Vernon Estate gift shop just in time for Christmas. Produced at the restored distillery this huge undertaking dwarfed Washington’s eight gallons in sales recorded back in 1798, reflecting a more than two-century price increase from $1.00 a gallon to a considerably adjusted $150.00 per 375ml bottle.
It’s an elegant pour, meant to be sipped, and one Washington didn’t expect to be chug-a-lugged. Not exactly a teetotaler himself, he wrote a letter to an employee, whom he both chastised and cautioned for drinking excessively.
When it first opened in 1798, the distillery was run by a canny Scotsman, James Anderson, and his son John. James had convinced Washington to produce whiskey later introducing the eau de vie, which are made today according to the early recipes. Producing 11,000 gallons of whiskey in its heyday, it became the largest distillery in America, providing two distinct grades of whiskey, which became available throughout the country, including in Alexandria’s many taverns.
Thanks to the efforts of archaeologists who discovered the foundations in 1997 and working off a grant from the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, the distillery was restored in March of 2007 after being destroyed by fire in 1814. Following ten years of research and construction, the distillery now produces one hundred gallons of rye whiskey in small batches twice a year. Brandy is made every other year.
Both are made the old-fashioned way using 18th century distilling techniques. Workers hand-cut up to 51 cords of wood per month to stoke the direct wood fires beneath the still, and giant wooden paddles are used to stir the mash, which then is transferred to a series of hogsheads. “Manning the paddles is like steering a cement canoe down the river,” says Mount Vernon’s Master Distiller Steven Bashore.
 Mount Vernon Master Distiller Steven Bashore – Photo credit Jordan Wright To achieve 300 gallons of whiskey, 8,000 pounds of rye, corn and malted barley from grains are sourced from Virginia farms. Locally grown Virginia peaches become the base for the Peach Brandy Eau de Vie that George and Martha served at the mansion. Ledger entries from 1798 show sales of eight gallons to the public. But by 1799 with production in full swing, the First Couple were graciously serving 60 gallons of the precious peach elixir to their many guests.
 Adding the grains to the make the mash – Photo credit Jordan Wright To recreate this “new” product two of America’s leading brandy distillers were brought in, Ted Huber of Starlight Distillery in Indiana who procured five 55-gallon drums of very fine peach juice, and Thomas McKenzie of Finger Lakes Distilling in New York. Both men assisted Bashore in the production and bottling of the historic brandy, which has been described as having tasting notes of candied peaches and peach cobbler with a hint of cinnamon and which I can personally attest to.
Dedicated in 2007 by Britain’s Prince Andrew, the reconstructed distillery featuring the distilling process “from seed to still” is open to the public 365 days of the year. Located at 5513 Mount Vernon Memorial Highway, Alexandria, VA 22309, the distillery is three miles south of Mount Vernon Estate and Gardens. For hours of operation go to www.MountVernon.org
To get you in the holiday spirit, or spirits as the case may be, here is a recipe for Martha Washington’s Rum Punch.
Martha Washington’s Rum Punch
Makes 6 -10 servings
- 3 oz. of White Rum
- 3 oz. of Dark Rum
- 3 oz. of Orange Curaçao
[or Peach Brandy Eau de Vie]
- 4 oz. of Simple Syrup
[equal parts sugar to water, warmed till sugar is dissolved]
- 4 oz. Lemon Juice
- 4 oz. of Fresh Orange Juice
- 3 Lemons quartered
- 1 Orange quartered
- ½ Tsp. Grated nutmeg
- 3 Cinnamon sticks (broken)
- 6 Cloves
- 12 oz. Boiling water
In a container, mash the orange, lemons, cinnamon sticks, cloves, and nutmeg. Add the syrup, lemon, and orange juices. Pour the boiling water over the mixture in the container and let cool for a few minutes.
When cool, add the White Rum, Dark Rum, and Orange Curaçao [You may substitute for Peach Brandy]. Strain well into a pitcher or punch bowl (to remove all of the spice marinade) and serve over ice in goblets and decorate with wheels of lemon and orange.
Dust with a little nutmeg and cinnamon and enjoy a sip of American history.
Jordan Wright
November 16, 2014
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
Aglaia Kremezi fairly floats into the room. Wisps of casually arranged auburn hair delicate as ripe corn silk are tempered by a pair of serious wire-rimmed frames that hint at her former life as an editor and journalist. She is utterly composed and cheery all at once. This well-known authority on Greek cuisine has come to the States to promote her newest cookbook, see friends and consult with Michael Costas, Executive Chef at José Andrés’ Greek-inspired restaurant Zaytinya.
After penning five cookbooks on the foods of Greece, Kremezi has of late directed her attention to vegetables, broadening the subject by including the whole of the Mediterranean. Kremezi lives with her husband, Costas Moraitis on the small Greek isle of Kea. For this cookbook she has put together 150 Mediterranean plant-based recipes tested in her kitchens at Kea Artisanal, where she conducts cooking vacations for students from around the world. Many of these historically authentic vegetarian dishes are far more lavish than meat-based dishes.
 Cookbook Author, Aglaia Kremezi, chats with Whisk and Quill – Photo credit by Jordan Wright Whisk and Quill – What do you think of the current shift to a more vegetable-based diet?
Kremezi – I think that it starts for the wrong reasons, because people think they have to eat healthier, and afterwards they consider the flavors. To me it’s the opposite. I far prefer the flavors of vegetables to the flavors of meat, even though I’m not vegetarian.
How many of your recipes are gleaned from early culinary sources and how many are tweaking through doing?
It’s both really. As you know, because you are a chef too, you take inspiration from this, that and the other and you add your own personal touch. They have my personality but they are taken from various countries from all over the Mediterranean and from friends’ kitchens.
I hear you and Paula Wolfert are great friends and that you Skype regularly. Do you ever cook together?
Oh, yes, in Sonoma and Connecticut. I’m on my way to Sonoma now to spend time with her before I go back to Greece.
The photos in your new book are so vivid, I want to eat the pages.
Penny De Los Santos took the photographs. She’s been to Kea for Saveur and I knew her work. I did take a few of the pictures, but she took all the rest. They are all taken in our house, garden and our outdoor kitchen. In the photos she used the plates given to me from my mother and our tablecloths, cookware and pottery that we have collected over the years.
The photographs are supposed to be the ‘hooks’ to draw people into the kitchen and make them cook, because people have neglected cooking. They rely too much on take out. A lot of companies are very quick to bring vegetarian products to market, but you never really know what’s in them.
Can you tell me some herbs or seasonings that are your favorites?
I like both the Aegean Herb and Hot Pepper Spice Mix, and also the Lebanese Seven-Spice Mixture. That one has cinnamon, cloves, coriander, ginger, allspice, pepper and nutmeg. It’s very aromatic and a bit spicy. It’s the basic spice in Lebanon and they use it in tabbouleh. Both spice recipes are in the book. Also I make my own preserved lemons and there is a recipe for that too in the book.
What are your favorite kitchen tools?
Wooden spatulas and spoons, my mandolin, a very good knife and scissors. I have scissors everywhere! I even use them when I am baking bread to score the tops of the loaves. It works better than a razor.
Your book is going to make readers want to plant their own gardens in order to harvest the many vegetables and herbs you spotlight in your seasonally-inspired recipes. Do you get most of your fresh ingredients from your garden?
Yes, especially herbs. Our seasons are different than yours. Now we are planting lettuces. I just was in Japan and got some kun choi seeds. And we have 10 or 12 kinds of oregano, like the Lebanese zaatar, which is a cross between oregano and thyme. I love farmers markets too. I was at the Dupont Circle Farmers Market on Sunday and today I’m heading over to the market in Penn Quarter to buy apples.
Tell me about your cooking classes on Kea.
It was my husband’s idea. Because we had the garden and we live in the middle of nowhere. We are on the more remote part of the island, the north side. It’s not the side with all the villas like the Hamptons. It is where we can have a garden and it’s less exposed to the harsher weather. Also it was nice to have people from all over the world come and join us every now and then. We love having people around our table.
We have six-day classes. We cook and eat and taste wines and cheeses and honeys from all over Greece. We also do hikes and make travel arrangements for guests who want to explore other islands.
Why do you think this book is so important?
The whole idea started from the interactions I had with the people in our classes. I found that things that I didn’t even think of showing people how to cook – – things I considered self-evident – – like how to braise green beans with tomatoes and onions for example. But they were amazed and they were asking me for the recipes. I realized that people don’t really know how to cook vegetables at all. In the book I have all these variations from country to country around the Mediterranean. For example, I give recipes for two entirely different eggplant spreads, both the Arab and French Provencal versions. Each use roasted eggplant. It’s an example of what I’m trying to do in this book. It’s these variations that really interest me. I do a lot of research and call up my Turkish friends for advice and suggestions.
Kremezi will be in DC at the Sips & Suppers event on January 24th and 25th 2015 along with Alice Waters, Joan Nathan, David Chang, Mike Isabella, Spike Gjerde, Cathal Armstrong, Erik Bruner-Yang, Michael Friedman, Carla Hall, Haidar Karoum, Charles Phan, Jamie Leeds and Peter Jacobson.
Tunisian Chickpea Soup (Leblebi)
Jordan Wright
November 5, 2014
Local Chef Cathal Armstrong’s Cookbook, My Irish Table – Recipes From the Homeland and Restaurant Eve, Will Warm The Cockles of Your Heart
My favorite cookbooks reveal the author’s personal connection to both the recipe and the ingredients, and this one is no different. In Cathal Armstrong’s “My Irish Table – Recipes From the Homeland and Restaurant Eve” (Ten Speed Press, 2014), co-written with former chef and Washington Post food writer David Hagedorn, the hearth-warming book takes us on an Irish culinary journey inspired by Armstrong’s mother’s kitchen and his father’s vegetable garden, and influenced by his early French culinary training.
 Cathal Armstrong As chef/owner of Restaurant Eve, and owner of The Majestic, Eammon’s A Dublin Chipper, PX and Society Fair, all located in Alexandria, Virginia, Armstrong has gotten a heap of ink from some of the world’s leading magazine writers and has twice been chosen from among DC area’s finest chefs to create a year-long Irish-inspired menu for The National Gallery of Art’s Garden Café, so this long-awaited book is a treasure.
At the top of each recipe you’ll find a description of Armstrong’s fondest food memories culled from his childhood in Dublin and dishes from his highly esteemed Restaurant Eve. All the recipes are tailored for the home cook. Here’s one to warm the cockles of your heart on a cold winter’s night.
Jordan Wright
October 28, 2014
all photo credit to Jordan Wright
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
Something for Moms to Cheer About, Willowsford Farm Lunch, Winos Take Over the Kennedy Center, Daniel Boulud Storms the Capitol
Hooray Puree Adds Nutrition, Covertly
 Hooray Purees have no added preservatives, dyes or even ascorbic acid Sneaky moms just got approval from Hooray Puree – a new pureed vegetable product that can be slipped undetected into mac n’ cheese, used to bump up the nutritional value of soups and stews, and added to smoothies. It even replaces all baking fats and oils in cakes, brownies and pies. All on the Q.T. In fact there are so many ways to have it over on your finicky kids, that you’re only limited by your imagination. Did I mention it’s convenient, organic, shelf-stable and comes in a nifty box?
 Mango-Carrot Smoothie I came across this pureed vegetables product through Timothy Cipriano, a chef who had worked to institute nutritional food programs for the Connecticut school system. Several years ago I had dinner with Cipriano after his first trip to the White House where he had met First Lady Michelle Obama and toured her famous kitchen garden.
 Colorful Quinoa Salad His efforts had been recognized by Mrs. Obama and she invited him to work with her office, Congress and the USDA in the Healthy, Hunger Free Kids Act that teaches kids where their food comes from. Surprisingly many kids, whether from the suburbs or the inner city, have never been on a farm or spent time in a vegetable garden. But by working together with the food service industry and community partners, the program Chefs Move to Schools began in earnest to change the scope of school food allowing kids to make better, more nutritious, and more informed choices about their everyday school breakfasts and lunches.
 No-Bake Peanut Butter Raisin Bars Not long ago Chef Cipriano discovered Hooray Puree and found it dovetailed nicely into his message of amping up the nutritional value and flavor of popular recipes. He is now the Vice President of Brand Development for the company and spends his time education school children and school nutrition professionals. You can follow him on Twitter @localfooddude. For dozens of great recipes check out www.HoorayPuree.com. Order online through www.AbesMarket.com.
Willowsford Farm Luncheon
In September I toured Willowsford Farm, a 4,000-acre community in Loudoun County, Virginia that enjoys two zip codes – from the quaint town of Aldie to nearby Ashburn. The vast property with a 300+-acre working farm that produces more than 150 varieties of fruits and vegetables, has a clutch of chickens and a herd of goats, truly celebrates the farm and all its bounty.
 Preparing the weekly CSA baskets at the farm Hunt country homes line the winding lanes leading to two magnificently appointed community centers. Outfitted with both indoor and outdoor teaching kitchens, noted chefs like Bryan Voltaggio of Range cook for homeowners at frequently arranged pop-up restaurants within the community center.
 Willowsford Farm Executive Chef Bonnie Moore In addition to the kitchens, farm and a farmers market with a CSA program, the property has a Culinary Director. Chef Bonnie Moore, formerly of the Inn at Little Washington, teaches ongoing cooking classes and provides recipes for residents. Children can volunteer to help at the farm and this summer they had a kids’ camp that took full advantage of the seven-acre lake where families enjoy canoeing and kayaking.
 Last of the season tomato salad // Harvest Apple Pie with Buttermilk Ice Cream On the day I visited Moore oversaw the end-of-summer luncheon in the grand Sycamore House, a stunning building whose receiving rooms have beautiful paneled walls milled from trees on the property.
 Mike Snow at the farm market at Willowsford Led by Farm Manager Mike Snow we visited the farm stand and clambered over one of the 40-miles of trails to check out the barns, coming upon a friendly Border Collie and a few hitchhiking praying mantises.
The visionary of this unique property is Brian Cullen, who saw fit to build in all the amenities from swimming pools and formal gardens to parks and camping areas for the residents before the homes had even been finished – a rare commitment from a developer. To learn more about the community visit www.Willowsford.com.
Winebow Performs at Kennedy Center
 From the terrace at Kennedy Center at the Winebow Vintner’s Harvest event Usually when I’m at the Kennedy Center I am watching a theatrical production of some sort – ballet, play, musical, opera. But this time I was there by invitation from major wholesaler Winebow who used the enormous dining room for its 1st Annual Vintner’s Harvest DC. There enhanced by a spectacular view overlooking the Washington Monument, they presented their import and distribution portfolio of over 200 producers and their wines, spirits and sakes.
 So many wines. So little time. It was cheek-to-jowl as buyers, beverage managers, sommeliers and restaurateurs packed the vast room searching for that elusive bottle. For some of us it was a chance to catch up with those in the biz, sample what’s new and make a few friends. For the earnest buyers in the crush, it was a serious exercise in sampling.
I confess I was a bit overwhelmed by the magnitude of the offerings – imagine over a thousand bottles at your reach! But it wasn’t long before an impossibly tall stranger in a cowboy hat broke through the scrum, saw my dilemma and took me by the hand to some lovely Bordeaux and a few well-aged sakes. All in the name of research, of course…
Daniel Boulud Storms the Capitol
 Daniel Boulud greets guests at his DBGB opening party Famed chef Daniel Boulud has charged onto the DC restaurant scene with DBGB Kitchen + Bar. And last month’s opening party was epic. Famed chefs Carla Hall, Jose Andres and Patrick O’Connell swooned along with the rest of us including Countess Elisabeth de Kergolay, Founder of Babeth’s Feast who has worked with Boulud who has created recipes for her NYC-based frozen food line. Boulud graciously posed for selfies with any guest that asked nicely.
 The splendid charcuterie // The popular Maryland crab topped burgers at DBGB The stylish spot is in the glamorous new City Center Building. Already Boulud has felt the love from the 100+ celebrity chef signed plates used as wall décor from none other than Grant Aschatz, Alice Waters, Thomas Keller, White House chef Crista Comerford, Anthony Bourdain, and Martha Stewart? Yes, the Domestic Goddess herself! The list is impressive. It’s like Sardi’s for chefs!
Best nibbles: Coq au vin and Baked Alaska.
Jordan Wright
September 25, 2014
Photo credit – Jordan Wright
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
 Event Chair David Hagedorn in lime green tie When Washington Post food writer David Hagedorn is doing the asking, big name chefs and restaurateurs respond. Though we didn’t see her there, Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg, who married David and his partner, Michael Widomski, last fall, are on his speed dial.
The noted cookbook author chaired the Human Rights Campaign LGBT “Chefs For Equality” evening of food and fun Tuesday night at the Ritz-Carlton West End in one of the most delicious events of the season. Two hundred chefs and their crews, plus some of the city’s top mixologists (if you hate that moniker, move along) prepared tastings for the guests who were dazzled by splashy drag queens, assorted pols and a ballroom filled with damned good looking men and their gal pals.
 VIP table settings Some of the most scrumptious bites came courtesy of Todd Gray and Chris Edwards of Salamander Resort & Spa (the concord grape jelly made from a neighbor’s vines was to die for); Michelle and Christophe Poteaux of Bastille whose foie gras mousse was topped with pear confit and toasted hazelnuts; Tim Ma of Water & Wall and Maple Avenue who served an Asian Chicken Soup; and Brian Noyes of Red Truck Bakery whose Chocolate Moonshine Cake (a Mason jar filled with the local firewater from Belmont Distillery) was a mouthful of pillowy, boozy chocolate cake.
 (Left to Right) Brian Noyes of Red Truck Bakery – Tim Ma of Water & Wall – Brent Sick Del Frisco’s Grille We also noshed on nibbles and sips from K. N. Vinod of Indique Heights, Mitch Berliner of MeatCrafters, Jamie Leeds of Hank’s Oyster Bar, Gina Chersevani of Buffalo & Bergen, Aaron McCloud of Cedar, Ris Lacoste of RIS, Tarver King of The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm, Jeff Faile of Neighborhood Restaurant Group and David Guas of Bayou Bakery whose “American Grilled” show is on the Travel Channel.
 (Left to Right) Aaron McCloud of Cedar – Brinn Sinnott of Le Diplomate – Michael Friedman of The Red Hen Salt & Sundry provided swag bags for the VIPs who sat together at tables lavishly decorated by their individual hosts. Their specialty dinners were prepared by uber-chefs Robert Wiedmaier (Marcel’s), Michel Richard (Central Michel Richard), Patrick O’Connell (The Inn at Little Washington), Frank Ruta (now baking with Mark Furstenberg at Bread Furst), Peter Chang (soon to open in Bethesda) Tony Conte (The Oval Room), Scott Drewno (The Source), Jeremiah Langhorne (formerly of McCrady’s soon to open a DC outpost), and Fabio Trabocchi (Fiola and Casa Luca).
 (Left to Right) Felicia Beefeater aka A. J. Dronkers with Jordan Wright – Todd Gray and Chris Edwards with team from Salamander – Gus DiMillo and Jeff Tunks of Passion Food Hospitality But it was all one big happy family there to celebrate this year’s Gay Rights successes and to push for Marriage Equality in Virginia. Star power came courtesy of Virginia Governor Terry McAuliffe who wooed the joyful crowd with his promise of support for gay marriage in the “Virginia is for Lovers” state.
 Bryan Sorrentino’s cake from Charm City Cakes
Jordan Wright
September 2014
all photo credit to Jordan Wright
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
A Green Wolf Resides on 14th Street, Tapping the Trees, A Visit to Maple Avenue Restaurant , Station 4 Goes to Valencia for Inspiration and Porchetta for a Crowd at Jackson 20
One of the most frequent questions I get is, “What is your favorite restaurant?” It’s a fair question to ask of a food writer, but nearly impossible to answer, because in addition to the tried and true, there are umpteen places opening in our area every day, and really it all boils down to personal taste. Some want a place to channel their inner romantic, others a cozy spot to hang out with friends. Some want to see and be seen while others are seeking the ultimate in complex culinary techniques and a gastronomic high. I, your eager guinea pig, am out there sniffing and sorting, testing and reporting, ever ready to explore and share my impressions with you.
Lupo Verde – A Green Wolf Resides on Fourteenth Street
Since the 1980’s restoration of the Willard Hotel and Santa Fe Chef Mark Miller’s groundbreaking Red Sage restaurant, 14th Street has changed from an XXX-Rated peep show boulevard to a destination for serious food and a cool style. Beaux Arts buildings have been returned to their former glory and chefs and bartenders are vying for your attention from Pennsylvania Avenue to Shaw and beyond.
 Lupo Verde’s Pulpo with orzo appetizer One of the newer destinations is Lupo Verde – fast becoming the hottest spot in town with its fantastic house made salumi and exquisite hand-rolled pastas. Thirty-four year old Calabrian Chef de Cuisine Domenico Apollaro helms the kitchen, bringing his knowledge of Italy’s boot region. I love this place and its brilliantly authentic Italian cucina. It’s just like dining with an Italian famiglia.
The corner facing brownstone has been lovingly transformed into a stylishly intimate retreat featuring a downstairs bar, two-level dining enhanced by floor-to-ceiling windows facing the street, and a glass-enclosed meat and cheese larder along the north wall of the dining room. It’s like gazing through the shop window of a salumeria.
 Rosy red Carpaccio at Lupo Verde If you have dined in Southern Italy, you will recognize many of these homespun dishes. If not, your server will patiently describe them to you. They are divided by Antipasti, Pizza al Tegamino (a Turin-style pizza served in an iron skillet), Primi, Secondi, Contorni (side dishes). I cannot to begin to recall all the salumi and fifty cheeses offered (most of which can be purchased to go), but they are either made in-house or sourced directly from Italy. Ditto for the fruity olive oil from a farm in Italy and accompanies the breadbasket.
On a recent visit we tried one of the many handcrafted cocktails like the Principessa combine blood peach puree, grapefruit bitters and prosecco; or the Sofia made with Don Ciccio & Figli hibiscus liqueur (a locally made liqueur), prosecco and hibiscus flower.
 Squid ink pasta with head-on Shrimp at Lupo Verde A perfect appetizer is Polpo al Cannonau – braised baby octopus with its crimson tentacles encircling a mound of orzo – dotted with seared peaches and flavored with squid ink vinaigrette – as close to coastal Italian as you can get barring a plane ride on Alitalia. Carpacccio di Carne Marinata is another delicious option – rosy-hued shavings of paper-thin beef atop arugula and local tomatoes with a garnish of padano.
Garganelli, one of the kitchen’s homemade pastas, is featured in a version with asparagus, thyme, bottarga (salted tuna roe) and prawns. Or try the Scialatelli al Nero that boasts head-on shrimp on squid ink pasta with a mix of seafood, egg yolk and saffron broth. Bravissimo, Chef, for not caving on using head-on shrimp. All the fat and flavor of these sea creatures is concentrated in the head, and too many chefs are removing the heads, deferring to the quirks of petulant neophobes. Take courage, dear diners, you don’t know what you’re missing!
 The salumi and formaggio at Lupo Verde In the Calabrian region you can find swordfish on many restaurant menus. Here it is served as Pesce Spada – a lightly grilled swordfish with mint-lime mascarpone, green bean salad and spaghetti timballo.
And though desserts are predictably simple, as Italians will typically have fruit or cheese and stroll the strada after dinner in search of gelato, they are far preferable after such a large meal.
 Brunch at Lupo Verde Recently the restaurant launched a Saturday and Sunday brunch that adds breakfast pizzas, Nutella crepes and egg dishes to the menu’s regular fare. Be sure to order the Cestino di Pane, a basket of assorted sweet breads that includes zeppole. *You could live on these! (*This statement has not been approved by the Mayo Clinic.)
Hot in Vienna – A Visit to Maple Avenue Restaurant
Last week in New York City, the James Beard House hosted a dinner prepared by the “Rising Star Chefs of Virginia” and Tim Ma, Chef/Owner of Water & Wall and Maple Avenue Restaurant, was one of the five chefs selected to prepare one of the courses. His dish, “Partridge in a Pear Tree” reflected his playful approach to ingredients and techniques. Ma used the glorious bird, balancing out its gaminess with braised celery, fresh pears, and foie gras jus. That would be his way.
 Hudson Valley Duck Breast with Quinoa and Spicy Corn Salad at Maple Avenue Last month I dined at the postage stamp-sized Vienna outpost that Ma developed as his first laboratory. Many of the dishes used trendy ingredients but were uniquely tweaked – Steamed Prince Edward Island Mussels with saffron coconut broth and spicy Chinese sausage, and another, a bowl of Thai-inspired caramelized okra seasoned with garlic and lime. Ma doesn’t hold back on chilies or peppers – even Shrimp and Grits gets a toss of piquillos. For tamer palates there is a Baked Mac and Cheese – a rich blend of blue cheese, cheddar and Gruyere topped with an herbed panko crust.
 Seared Scallops with Coconut Risotto at Maple Avenue Restaurant Entrées are equally creative. Pressing into service vegetables and meats from neighboring farms, Ma’s style borrows from Southern regional and enhances it with an Asian twist. I particularly loved the seared scallops with coconut risotto, scallions and basil ice cream.
 Fried Okra at Maple Avenue As you can imagine, the menu changes with the seasons, so it’s impossible to count on any of the aforementioned, though the website doesn’t appear to have updated its options since the August menu. Reservations are required.
Hickory Dickory Dock – Tapping the Trees
 Shagbark Hickory Oak I once dined al fresco on the top of a hill on actor Robert Duvall’s gentleman farm located just outside The Plains, Virginia. My husband had won the highest bid at a charity auction for a horse-and-carriage ride to his estate that included a champagne-fueled picnic with the organizer. When we arrived at the house to await instructions as to where to spread out our provisions, I saw one of the most magnificent examples of a Shagbark Hickory tree I had ever seen in all my born days. It was smack dab in the center of the circular driveway. Leaping out of the carriage, I loudly identified the tree at the very moment Mr. Duvall was approaching from behind with his wife, the Argentine beauty Luciana Pedraza. He was impressed I knew what it was and proudly explained it had been designated the Virginia State Champion. He then directed us to a road that led down into his valley and up again to a hilltop where we were to set up our luncheon, and bade us goodbye.
Minutes later, the couple ascended the ridge and strode towards our little group of now just three, the coachman having passed out in a shed from early tippling. He asked if they could join us, explaining that anyone who could identify a Shagbark Hickory was someone he was eager to know. And that is how we whiled away a crisp fall afternoon with Mr. Duvall and his stunning wife. He is a brilliant generalist and can converse on any topic under the sun and we did.
The reminiscence of that glorious autumn afternoon goes to explain my dot-connecting excitement when I discovered Hickory Bark syrup. Now you may feel that the connection is a bit of a stretch, but I assure you it is not as the syrup is made not twenty minutes away in Berryville, Virginia.
 Falling Bark Farm Wildcrafted Hickory Syrup Joyce and Travis Miller of Falling Bark Farm began their business in 2011 making a small batch product foraged from Shagbark Hickory trees that uses a process of extraction that does not harm the trees. By concocting an extraction made from Hickory tree bark, and later sweetened with turbinado sugar or honey, they can make a sustainable product.
 Joyce and Travis Miller of Falling Bark Farm at the Bluemont Festival There are as many culinary uses for this amber-colored syrup as there are for any sweet syrup or honey. I just used it in place of honey when making a batch of granola, but it’s lovely in yogurt, on pancakes and waffles or on salmon, ham glazes or roasted Brussels sprouts with bacon. It has a distinct, yet mild, and somewhat nutty flavor.
For the Millers this business came as a bit of surprise. Though Travis had worked for major supermarket chains, Giant and Safeway, throughout his career he was eager to do something involved directly with customer service. After retirement he took on cabinet making before launching their syrup at a small farm market in Purcellville, which further led to the Bethesda Farm Market where he began to garner attention from chefs and locals excited about using his hickory syrup.
The couple says that 95% of their business is wholesale. Some of their loyal clients are the Twisted Vine Wine Bar in Arlington who uses it in brunch dishes and Salamander Resort & Spa, whose Chef de Cuisine Chris Edwards serves it with pancakes and waffles. In Winchester Chef/Owner Ed Matthews of One Block West uses it in a myriad of ways. As his menu changes nightly, he recalled a few dishes he has used it in. For savory dishes he likes to drizzle it over Prosciutto-Wrapped Scallops with Grits; Hickory-Smoked Minnesota Walleye with Asparagus, Radishes, Morels; and Pork and Grits, a dish made of house-cured pork belly, coarse yellow grits, poached egg, and pimentón sauce. Another application Matthews has employed is as a dipping sauce for an open-faced pork belly sandwich with tangy slaw and a poached egg.
Dessert brings other pleasures to the One Block West table like Hickory Syrup and Black Walnut Gelato; Pumpkin Pie-Spiced Crème Caramel with oatmeal lace cookie, crème Anglaise, chocolate-orange cremoso and hickory syrup. For this last one Edwards adds a graham cracker crust.
To find it in our area try Glen’s Garden Market and Gone Native Foods at Union Market, both in DC as well as some Whole Foods and Fresh Market stores in Northern Virginia. They also make a private label syrup for Ash Lawn-Highland and the Mount Vernon Estate. “We get calls every day from companies wanting to use our product. Next we plan to work with the Appalachian Brewing Company in Harrisburg, PA who will use our syrup to brew a specialty beer,” Travis says.
Falling Bark Farm’s most deluxe product to date is the 180 Reserve Cask Hickory Syrup. It is aged for one hundred days in organic rye whiskey barrels from local distiller Catoctin Creek. To use any of their syrups at home Miller recommends making a 6-1 ratio of seltzer water to syrup for a delicious soda. He also mentioned making a delicious ham glaze of equal parts of bourbon and syrup. To order by mail visit www.wildwoodshickorysyrup.com.
Jackson 20’s Splendid Table
 The Porchetta Feast at Jackson 20 On a warm end-of-summer evening in Old Town Alexandria we dined al fresco in the courtyard at Jackson 20, a restaurant in the upscale Hotel Monaco. Teak tables placed in a long row held blue glass candleholders and vases filled with wildflowers. White linen napkins encircled by silver pig napkin rings stood by each setting and after a few glasses of Gruet an epic feast commenced with house made charcuterie and “pig butter”, a pure lard concoction made for spreading on toast.
An exquisite Farmers Beet Salad of pickled watermelon rind, arugula, BBQ pecans and Pipe Dreams Fromage, a runny, delicate flavored cheese, sat beside another salad of tomatoes and basil.
 Porchetta The special order “Porchetta Roast” dinner is served family style and involves a pork shoulder that is spit roasted with crackling bronzed skin and stuffed with pork sausage. It was brought to the table on a large wooden platter surrounded by a symphony of Southern side dishes – collards, mac and cheese, biscuits and corn bread and Brussels sprouts with chanterelles.
 Beet salad from Chef Brian McPherson Prepared by Executive Chef Brian McPherson, the best part is that with just one week’s notice you can order this fantastic dinner throughout the fall season for a minimum of eight guests at $38.00 per person.
Station 4 Visits Valencia
Our friends at Station 4 have taken to serving paella on Wednesday nights. Executive Chef Orlando Amaro will be creating a different Valencian rice dish each week incorporating many of the ingredients he sources from local farmers, fishers and meat purveyors. Some of the dishes to expect later this month are Del Mar y de la Tierra Paella – a delicious olio of saffron rice, shrimp, mussels, squid, chicken, chorizo and sweet peas on September 17th and Clams and Chorizo Paella made with lobster broth, chorizo, Manila clams, and mixed peppers offered on September 24th. Paella is priced at $25 for one person or $35 for two guests. For the perfect pairing try a carafe of sangria for an additional $15.
 Tomato Basil Salad at Station 4
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