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Launch of Jose Andres Catering with Ridgewells
Jordan Wright
Whisk and Quill
October 2009
This week saw the launch of Jose Andres Catering with Ridgewells.  Getting the party started - photo credit Jordan Wright No sooner had the genius entrepreneur Andres, who can’t seem to rest on his laurels,  Jose shares his thoughts on food - photo credit Jordan Wright opened his wildly successful Bazaar Restaurant in LA, when he plunged into his newest venture. Andres, of PBS’s successful Made in Spain series, who has broken new ground in dining in Washington DC with Mini Bar by Jose Andres, Zaytinya, Oyamel, Café Atlantico and Jaleo, now offers his divine food to Ridgewells’ clientele.
The setting for this reveal was the stunning Georgian home of THINKFOODGROUP’s owner Rob Wilder, who cleared out all but the Directoire settees and Louis XVI chairs to accommodate the guests. “EAT DRINK DREAM” was the theme and its slogan illuminated the home’s facade at this posh affair, where a myriad of savory canapés like fattoush with sumac-cured salmon and cotton candy foie gras accentuated the theme featuring a varied Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine from Andres’ repertoire of traditional and avant garde flavors.
Under a pavilion three chefs stirred a giant paella pan nearly seven feet in diameter steaming and burbling with shrimp and clam paella. While indoor stations of salt-crusted red snapper with skordalia and parsley sauce and the world’s most tender lamb with rosemary jus and ladolemono, were served by Ridgewells’ staff.  Scallops with citrus and guajillo chili oil - photo credit to Jordan Wright Poolside found heavenly scallop crudo cradled in its own shell with guajillo chili oil and mixed citrus salsa vying for attention with sweet Kumamoto oysters on green olive puree touched by lemon.
Swirling servers with tiny pretty food tempted guests who wandered through the elegant silver-draped rooms sampling delicacies. Carved out cherry tomatoes speared with pipettes filled with a mousse of mozzarella that shot into one’s mouth like a pollinating spore…so very interactive…clear glass espresso cups contained delicate whipped potatoes sitting atop black caviar. Yet another plate was adorned with jicama pouches filled with tuna ceviche and flavored with coconut and ginger.
 A perfect evening - photo credit to Jordan Wright Drinks too, were part of the fun. Mojitos topped with clouds of mint-flavored cotton candy and Sangria Rojo that was ladled from a fruit-filled apothecary jar. Sweet saffron jellies showed the playful, elegant, taken-to-the-nth-degree nature of Andres’ presentations. Washington hostesses will be in seventh heaven…at last able to bring this extravagant cuisine to their homes and charitable events.
In the hope-to-see-you-there category: Next month Andres will join his friend and mentor Ferran Adria, to teach a course at Harvard University. Adria, acclaimed chef of what has been billed as “the world’s greatest restaurant”, elBulli in Roses, Spain, lectured there in 2008.  Fruits, flowers and veggie decorations at Jose Andres/Ridgewells launch event - photo credit to Jordan Wright The two compatriots, invited by Harvard’s Materials Research Science and Engineering Center, will teach on the science of molecular cooking, an avant-garde concept of preparing food credited to Adria and practiced and promoted by the two chefs.
 Mojito clouds - photo credit Jordan Wright Later that evening I chatted with Andres about his LA experience. “There is a food cart phenomenon called “Kogi” that serves Korean BBQ on tacos”, Andres informed me. “You have to go on Twitter to find out where they’ll be that day. They change their location a couple times a day and hundreds of people show up to make the scene. It’s incredible.”
I wondered if this would become his next inspiration. Would there be “tapas-on-wheels”? It’s anybody’s guess. I’ll keep my quill sharpened.
The Del Ray BBQ Boys Celebrate Their New Restaurant (and a food writer inadvertently becomes part of the story)
Jordan Wright
Whisk and Quill
October 2009
 Investor Mango Mike and wife Donna with their Pork Barrel BBQ bus - photo by Jordan Wright
I arrived early on Mount Vernon Avenue in Del Ray last week. Brett Thompson and Heath Hall, creators and owners of Pork Barrel BBQ were setting up the tables, pitching the tent and catching up with old friends and supporters in anticipation of the day’s groundbreaking ceremony for their new restaurant venture. In July I wrote about the “Del Ray BBQ Boys”, as I had nicknamed them, for localkicks.com after meeting them and sampling their delicious wares at National Harbor’s Food and Wine Festival. NBC News Washington had picked up my story and it had skyrocketed to tens of thousands more “eyes” on it.
Thompson walked over and said, “This restaurant is all because of you and your story about us. We want to thank you.”
Stunned, I stammered, “What are you talking about?”
“Well, “Mango” Mike read your story on us,” he revealed. (“Mango” Mike, of the eponymous restaurant on Duke Street.) “He googled it up and that’s how he found out about us and offered to back us in this restaurant.”  cut the ribbon with Mayor Bill Euille (center) - Photo Credit Jordan Wright Of course it was also because back in September they had appeared on ABC’s Shark Tank series and considerably more people had come to know them and their story as former Hill staffers and Virginia-based entrepreneurs.
I looked around at their dream come true. On hand were Alexandria’s Mayor, Bill Euille, Vice Mayor, Kerry Donnelly, Councilman Frank Fannon and Linda and Steve Hubbard, dressed in their UPS chocolate brown and gold uniforms, who own the fulfillment center, where over 1,000 bottles and jars of Pork Barrel BBQ’s fabulous sauce and rub are shipped to eager customers around the country. Everyone came ready to cheer on the boys. Restaurant backers “Mango” Mike and Bill Blackburn, arriving in their massive gold touring bus, were doing the meet-and-greet, while pork smokers wafted waves of heavenly barbecue aroma over the crowd of supporters who milled around with neighborhood business owners and Del Ray’s artsy crowd.
 Breaking ground in Del Ray with ABC's Shark Hunt film crew - photo by Jordan Wright A couple of local newspaper publishers doing their own event coverage added to the eclectic local crowd along with a “P-O-R-K” fan club made up of four skinny half-naked pig-snouted students from Bishop Ireton High School, all eager to be in on the celebration and tasting. It was the usual set up for a groundbreaking. Golden shovels and giant scissors gleamed in the warm September sun.
But one thing was different…stunningly noticeably different…from any other ribbon cutting in any other town in North America, or the world for that matter.
Because, for this small groundbreaking ceremony for two nice guys in business for less than a year, taking place in a small suburb of Alexandria, Virginia across from the local farmers market held on Saturday mornings in a dentist’s parking lot, Hollywood was on site to cover it. Big time!
ABC’s Shark Tank film crew had shown up full tilt with cameraman, soundman and microphones to record the event for a later show in the boys continuing success saga; and invitees, who knew about the planned coverage in advance, were checking out the action…playing it cool for the cameras.
 Pork Barrel BBQ Fan Club chows down - Photo Credit Jordan Wright After all the picture-taking and filming died down lunch was served on the “lot” and I again tasted Bret and Heath’s barbeque pork that they coat with olive oil, massage with their secret rub and smoke for 13 hours. I savored it. I gave it time to process the deep and complex flavors. I palate-checked. I concluded. If they recreate this in their new restaurant, poised to open in Spring 2010, the tiny village of Del Ray will be on America’s food trail map forever. For, dear readers, this is the best barbeque I have ever tasted…smoky, juicy, tender and sweet. Pork nirvana. I can hardly wait till spring!
If you can hardly wait, you can order their products at www.porkbarrelbbq.com.
By Jordan Wright
Published: The Georgetowner/Downtowner, October 2009
The St. Regis Hotel in Washington DC, designed to resemble an Italian Renaissance palace, is associated with the posh life of the international jet set and stratospherically successful business traveler. Its gilded portals, marbled floors and orchid-laden tables gently whisper the definition of luxe living.
Most recently the hotel and restaurant have experienced a metamorphosis with the arrival of uber-chef Alain Ducasse’s Adour Restaurant. Interior designer, David Rockwell’s sophisticated blend of Old World elegance and sleek modern cachet have translated the update into a very chic yet laid-back style, greatly enjoyed by the Washington glitterati since its opening last year.  Beef Tenderloin with petits farcis Nicois vegetables at Adour - photo credit Jordan Wright  Wine Director Ramon Navaez at Adour - Photo credit Jordan Wright While the lovely original dark wood beams (think Dumbarton Oaks Music Room), opulent rococo appointments and marbled floors remain intact in this stunning hotel they are partnered with edgier Euro-inspired décor in the dining room which features white leather and chrome dining chairs and Venetian starburst sconces in a striking setting. Linen-draped tables are positioned far enough apart for financiers to discuss oil futures and spacious dining alcoves cosset romantic diners with a perfect spot for a tete-a-tete. Continue reading Adour Restaurant in the St. Regis: A Peerless Marriage of Food, Wine and Luxury
An exciting new streaming video series, “A Day in the Life of a Chef”, is coming soon to the Whisk and Quill, LLC website, featuring food writer and chef, Jordan Wright, as host of this innovative culinary channel.
The program will spotlight some of our area’s most talented and creative chefs and feature local products within the Chesapeake Bay Watershed Region of Virginia, Washington, DC, Maryland, West Virginia, Pennsylvania and Delaware.
By Jordan Wright
Published – LocalKicks.com
September 2, 2009
 Photo by Jordan Wright/Local Kicks Our first stop was Teddy’s Barbeque, where all the meats are hickory smoked. Pulled pork, pulled chicken and beef brisket sandwiches compete with “The Rough Rider Rib,” a monster beef short rib prepared in true Carolina style…brined for 12 hours and then slow-smoked for another 12 hours.
Today’s ballparks have become strike zones with batting and pitching cages, food destinations, Build-A-Bear Workshops, sports arenas, PlayStation pavilions and baseball venues all in one.
Did I mention baseball? Yes, they have that too.
If you haven’t been to a game lately I highly recommend it. Sports fan or not, you’ll be a convert by the time the game’s over. It’s great for a family (very unlike the rowdy and often R-rated crowds at a football game) or whiling away an evening with a date.
I had a chance to sample the food at Nationals Park last week and it was a real eye opener. Professional chefs are creating some wonderful and imaginative stadium food…so delicious that people are showing up at the ticket office and buying the cheap seats ($5), just to get into the park, for some of this mouth-wateringly smokin’ food.
 Photo by Jordan Wright/Local Kicks In earnest we approached the foot-long Crab Louie. At $18 a pop it may seem a little pricey until you realize that it’s all lump crabmeat. If you’re accustomed to the greasy $7 slices of pizza at FedEx Field, you are in for a complete overhaul of your sports venue mindset.
Unlike FedEx Field, which has private high-end ticket holder restaurants within the stadium for their club seat and sky-box patrons only, Nationals Park has fabulous choices for food all over the stadium. Most of these spots even have a direct view of the game with outdoor awning-covered seating or indoor and air-conditioned with a sight line enjoyed through sliding glass panels.
While FedEx offers in-seat service for their pricey club seat ticket holders, Nationals Park encourages all its guests to walk around and enjoy the game from a number of different viewing areas and to eat your way around the park. With so much to choose from it’s great fun to get there early and eat at your leisure.
Since it is necessary to have kid approval for ballpark food, my grandson, Jacob, a perpetually hungry 11 year-old, was recruited for the sake of this review.
Our first stop was Teddy’s Barbeque, where all the meats are hickory smoked. Pulled pork, pulled chicken and beef brisket sandwiches compete with “The Rough Rider Rib,” a monster beef short rib prepared in true Carolina style…brined for 12 hours and then slow-smoked for another 12 hours. I am challenging all readers to let me know if they have ever had better anywhere.
Did I mention the smoked corn on the husk, baked beans, slaw and potato salad sides? We are just getting started here.
In earnest we approached the foot-long Crab Louie. At $18 a pop it may seem a little pricey until you realize that it’s all lump crabmeat (Try making this at home. I priced a pound of lump at $33 today!), and four people could share this for a lovely lunch. Comes with extra crispy Old Bay seasoned french fries too.
Next we tried a Cuban sandwich that fit right into my “foodcation” concept. Skip the flight to Miami and cab to Calle Ocho, you can enjoy a “medianoche” right here.
We continued our street fair approach to dining with a stop at a recent addition, The Kosher Grill. Along with kosher hot dogs it features falafel, knishes and Middle Eastern shwarma. Are you still with me?
If you’re wistful for the annual summer Feast of San Gennaro, now in its 90th year, in New York City’s Little Italy (the sentiment always floods over me at this time of year), you couldn’t do better than to have the Italian Sausage sandwich here. It is one of my all-time favorites and they hit it out of the park…fennel-infused sausage, sautéed red peppers and onions, soft Italian roll and all.
 Photo by Jordan Wright/Local Kicks Did I mention the smoked corn on the husk, baked beans, slaw and potato salad sides? We are just getting started here.
In case you thought ballpark food was all hotdogs and peanuts, at this hip stadium they have healthy snack alternatives like veggie burgers, shrimp burgers, boxes of carrot and celery sticks, fresh fruit bowls, fruit smoothies and more. Makes a parent feel almost nutritionally religious taking the little ones to see a game.
Here you’ll find so many different locations to pause, eat, drink and watch the game you needn’t sit in your seat at all and some fans never do. At the Red Porch, a restaurant open to all ticket holders, they carry beer on tap from around the country…like Dogfish from Delaware, Bell’s Kalamazoo Stout from Michigan and Flying Dog Old Scratch Amber from Maryland to mention a few.
With different food from the rest of the park, this sit-down menu has everything from Bacon Blue Cheese Burgers and Quesadillas to Chinese Chicken Salad and Jerk Chicken Wings.
Not to miss dessert our adventure took us onward to two DC faves, Gifford’s Ice Cream and Edy’s Grand Ice Cream stands for a sweet treat. We both loved the park’s, made in Italy and shipped over fresh, Italian gelati. “One mocha chocolate chip, one strawberry, please.” Later we kept our cool with frozen lemonade. It just couldn’t get any better.
Kid verdict: a lot of lip-smacking, barbeque sauce finger licking, more than a few “Oh yeah, that’s what I’m talking about!” responses, juicy-cool refreshing fruit snack smiles and a big thumbs up for all the food.
By the way, the Nats crushed their opponents that day…9-2.
Email the writer at [email protected]
Jordan Wright
Published: Georgetowner/Downtowner – Wright on Food
September 2009
With a wealth of museums housing the greatest concentration of art and artifacts in America, Washington, DC stands alone as a destination for those seeking culture and edification. Thousands of tourists, school children and families delighted to see their “taxpayers dollars at work”, take advantage of the (mostly free) museums every year and try to pack in as much as possible. But to what end? “Cultural overload” can be a serious side effect. It occurs when the overtired and over-edified visitor struggles to recall the provenance of something they have viewed that day. Was it a Matisse, Degas or Morissot? A highly intricate Native American beaded object, was it Navaho or Zuni? Perhaps an ancient Chinese scroll…was it Han Dynasty or Tang? Even one more magnificent painting, artifact or sculpture can prove one too many.
Without a stop along the way to decompress and review the wonders of the day over a meal in a pleasant spot, we can’t really process our experiences. After all it’s not just about ticking off a laundry list of must-sees if we can’t remember what we saw.
Always when touring, our family motto is as follows: ”Retreat!”…the part where you find a nice calm place to relax; “Regroup!”…the participants convene to review the day’s adventures, and partake in restorative food and drink; and “Attack!”…the point at which you head back out with renewed vigor or at least enough strength to go home. It’s a no-variation prescription for sightseeing I highly recommend.
Many of our largest museums are massed on the Mall. Some museums have in-house dining options, some are lovely, some very crowded and others merely satisfy fast food choices…to wit there’s a McDonald’s and Boston Market in the National Air and Space Museum. Avoid at all costs. For our purposes we seek a charming respite, a pleasant destination that is too small or too high-end to service bus tours. I like to think that having a proper meal is both reward and celebration for the day’s adventure and, gastronomically speaking, part of your day’s artistic experience.
What follows is my short list of places to enjoy in and around the most visited museums and attractions. And unlike Boston, New York or Philadelphia whose museums charge up to $20.00 in entry fees, here in DC we have none or very minimal admission and we can put those savings into finer dining options.
 Cedar-planked Juniper Salmon over the fire pit at Mitsitam Café – (credit to the Café at National Museum of the American Indian)
Nearby to the Smithsonian American Art Museum, the International Spy Museum, the National Portrait Gallery, the Newseum, the National Archives, the National Museum of Crime and Punishment and the National Museum for Women in the Arts are Acadiana, Café Mozart, Zola, Siroc, The Source, Teaism and Poste Moderne…each beckoning with a vastly different epicurean siren song.
Acadiana is helmed by Chef Jeff Tunks and shows off the spirit of Louisiana with dishes like a Trio of Pies featuring Natchitoches Meat Pie, Louisiana Crawfish Pie and Southern Vegetable Pie with Black Pepper Buttermilk Dipping Sauce, Seafood Gumbo or their signature Barbeque Shrimp and finish with French Market Beignets with Chicory Coffee Creme Anglaise.
901 New York Avenue, NW
Little Café Mozart revels in its Bavarian fare. Veal Schnitzels, German Potato Pancakes, Rouladen and Viennese Beef Goulash. Enjoy your “foodcation” with Black Forest Cake with Kirshwasser, Whipped Cream and Morello Cherries, Linzer Torts and Apple Strudel. All made in house.
1331 H Street, NW
Zola, under the culinary magic of Chef Bryan Moscatello, who also oversees neighboring Potenza, is a sleek yet intimate and sultry spot with sexy red velvet banquettes. Its menu ranges from local Green Hill Farms Lamb with Hazelnut and Sheep Ricotta Ravioli with Red Romaine and Sweet Shallot Puree to An American “Hot Pot” of Shrimp, Scallops, Clams, Mussels and Salmon poached in a Sweet Corn Tomato broth served with Quinoa and Grilled Chorizo. Pastry Chef Christopher Kujala makes a Mud Pie with espresso Kahlua freddo, Oreo Brownie and Bourbon Pecan Butterscotch. Yes, that’s all just one dessert! For fun he even makes throwback Whoopie Pies. This coming February they will co-host a special Spy event for kids with their next-door neighbors.
 The Spy Museum.Zola Restaurant - Photo by Jordan Wright 800 F Street, NW
Siroc ‘s intriguing Mediterranean allure and creative Italian influence reveal dishes like Baby Octopus Salami with oven-dried Cherry Tomatoes and Red Pepper and Arugula Pesto, a whole host of paninis, handmade pastas like gnocchi and pappardelle and Squid Ink Capellini with Baby Clams or Cappelacci filled with Lobster and Roasted Corn with a Sweet Pepper Beurre Blanc. Round off your meal with Bosc Pear poached in Red Wine and Ginger with Mascarpone Ice Cream and Ginger Cream. You can dine inside or outside on the patio.
915 15th Street, NW
Poste Moderne Brasserie in the Hotel Monaco has become a destination spot for diners. Its relaxed modern American cuisine by Chef Robert Weland focuses on ingredient-driven preparations. A pre-theatre menu, or as I like to call it après museum-going dinner, served from 5 to 6:30 pm, features such choices as Arugula Salad with Basil, Fresh Figs, Parmesan and Aged Sherry Vinaigrette, Pastured Chicken with Toasted Farro, Sweet Corn and Chanterelles and a lovely Peach Papillote with fresh Ricotta and Lavender Ice Cream. Or you could start off your weekend with a Saturday or Sunday Brunch here, indoor or outdoor. How lovely for the fall!
555 8th Street, NW
In the Newseum Wolfgang Puck’s The Source has taken this town by storm with its stunning décor, spectacular views of the city and a highly acclaimed menu. Opening to rave reviews this very pricey restaurant offers an eclectic upscale Asian menu as inspiring and beautiful as the art in our museums. Lacquered Chinese Duckling with Lo Mein Noodles and Bing Cherry Compote or Grilled Lamb Chops, Hunan Eggplant, Pea Tendrils and Chili-Mint Vinaigrette titillate the palate. Kobe Short Ribs with Indian Spices and Raita prove irresistible. The restaurant offers sake pairings to enlighten the seeker.
575 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Among the marble columns in the National Museum for Women in the Arts is a small café that serves sweet crepes, think Nutella and Strawberries, and savory crepes, quiches, sandwiches and salads. They have a special brunch on the first Sunday of each month.
1250 New York Avenue, NW
Just off the Mall, charming Teaism serves exotic teas, Asian–inspired cuisine and plenty of vegan options in a setting replete with koi pond. I love this very affordable restaurant with their delicious Bento Boxes, Seaweed Salad and Udon Noodle bowls. Don’t miss their Salty Oat Cookies. To die for!
400 8th Street, NW, 800 Connecticut Avenue, NW and 2009 R Street, NW
In and around the Renwick Gallery, the Corcoran and The White House on the West End of the Mall you can find the Willard Hotel, the Old Ebbitt Grill and the Occidental Grill.
The beautiful Old Ebbitt Grill is a Washington favorite whose famous raw bar continues to draw aficionados to their freshly shucked oysters and clams. In addition to their divine Saturday and Sunday Brunch offerings they feature “From the Farm” with a variety of locally-sourced farm vegetables tossed with Roasted Garlic, Feta Cheese and Fettucine or small plates for sharing such as Jonah Crab Cocktail, Columbian Empanadas and Beef Carnitas.
675 15th Street, NW
Café du Parc in the Willard hotel has a very tiny restaurant but beautiful outdoor dining. I especially like it after dark. So chic, so French! Their Charcuterie Bar showcases house-made pates…Pate de Campagne with Armagnac and Prunes, Pate en Croute and Alsatian Presskopf, five kinds of pickles and cornichons and a large variety of cheeses. Four different platter choices also offer Iberican Prosciutto and Serrano Ham. Top it off with their macaroons, éclairs and seasonal fruit tarts.
 Charcuterie platter from Cafe du Parc at the Willard Hotel - credit to Jordan Wright 1401 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
The Occidental Grill and Seafood Restaurant is a classic Washington institution with its history of hosting most US Presidents, famous movie stars and diplomats. Beginning September 16th each Wednesday they will be grilling on their new posh outdoor lounge. With live music and cocktails handcrafted by Lawrence von Weigel and Lamont Proffit this promises to be a lively scene. Great for people-watching.
1475 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
If you’re pressed for time On the Fly, the cute as a bug’s ear around-the-town food carts provide the food at the cafes in the Corcoran and Phillips with sandwiches, salads and desserts. At the Corcoran Museum they do late-day tapas.
Near The Phillips and the Anderson House is the recently renovated Jockey Club, their red checked tablecloths intact and beloved Maitre d’ Martin Garbisu back at his post. Chef Richard McCreadie, who cooked for a time at the Georgetown Club, is preparing Yellow Tomato Gazpacho with Tempura Shiso Leaf and Red Sorrel Pesto, and their classic Pan-fried Rainbow Trout with English Peas and Parsleyed Potatoes has been restored to the menu. How I love to see this wonderful, memory-laden place back on its uppers again!
In the Fairfax at Embassy Row Hotel at 2100 Massachusetts Avenue, NW
Two of my favorite spots on the Mall are the pretty indoor/outdoor Pavilion Café beside the Sculpture Garden which serves sandwiches, soups, gourmet pizzas and desserts and where, in the summer, you can watch the dancing fountains and Friday evening Jazz concerts or the ice skaters in winter; and Native American cuisine at Mitsitam Native Foods Café inside the National Museum of the American Indian. Although the Mitsitam is cafeteria-style and bustling the food is so authentic and so much a part of the museum’s experience I do recommend it. Based on the varied Native culinary traditions of the Americas it offers dishes like Maple-brined Turkey with Cranberry Relish, Chicken Tamale in a Corn Husk with Peanut Sauce, Cedar-planked fire-roasted Juniper Salmon and smaller dishes such as Bison Chili on top of Fry Bread. The fun is watching your meal prepared in a large fire pit in the Café’s kitchen.
If you chose to remain on the Mall, The Cascades Café, on the lower level in the East Wing of the National Gallery of Art, is a convenient place to stop and meet up with your crew to choose from a wide array of choices in this quick-serve cafeteria. You’ll find roast chicken and other homey dishes, make-your-own salads, pizzas and, most importantly, a terrific assortment of gelati, Italian sodas and espressos.
A memorable luncheon can be had in the Garden Café in the West Wing, Situated around a large stone fountain the cafe changes its menus to coordinate with the museum’s special exhibitions. Until November 1st it highlights Spain with an exquisite, authentic menu created by top chef Jose Andres. After that it will change to a French-themed menu.
Alors! Bon appétit to all and while you’re enjoying your art adventures let me know what fabulous restaurants you’ve discovered by writing me at [email protected].
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