Jordan Wright
March 12, 2015
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
SER
A Reboot of the Classic Dishes of Spain
 SER co-owner Javier Candon and wife Christiana Campos Candon Last summer when the Ballston Business Improvement District sent out an all-call seeking innovative restaurant concepts, co-owners Javier Candon and Josu Zubikarai geared up for the local competition. The challenge included some pretty heavy hitters in the restaurant industry, but the trio had already formulated a solid business plan – – they were just waiting to find the capital and the opportunity to launch their restaurant. Ever since they were declared the winners (which included a one-year rent-free restaurant space lease, an 11-year lease option, a quarter of a million dollars in interest-free loans, and other related perks), this experienced team has been hard at work making their dream become reality.
 At the raw bar with Executive Chef Josu Zubikarai (left) and oyster shucker Last week in advance of their grand opening I dined at the gleaming glass-enclosed restaurant, SER. I knew Chef Zubikarai’s culinary expertise from his decades of helming the kitchen at DC’s glamorous Taberna del Alabardero. A few years ago I wrote about his revamping of La Tasca’s menu when the small, privately owned, local chain summoned the Basque native back to our shores to for a redesign of their menu. And I had already known Javier from his decades-old tenure as Taberna’s manager when I worked for an international consulting company that hosted private dinners at the prestigious restaurant bringing together Spain’s elite and high-level U.S. business leaders. But I had yet to meet Christiana Campos-Candon, a beautiful and elegant businesswoman who has been an award-winning force in public relations for over 20 years. Adding to this team of veterans is David Sierra, former Sous Chef at Fiola Mare DC, and Merv Laihow, who previously managed The Green Pig in Arlington, and is known here as ‘Captain of the Vibe’.
 Chef Josu Zubikarai puts the final touches on the cod The space is expansive yet intimate. A modernistic great room that twists and turns into smaller areas for dining and imbibing, it is reminiscent of the new wave of California chic dining spaces that focus on natural and personal elements. Walls of black-and-white photos tell of the group’s family and friends and found antiques cozy up to the contemporary candle-lit space.
Three separate bars line the perimeter – – one for drinks and signature cocktails; another with a pick-up area for take away lunch service that morphs into a cheese/charcuterie and raw seafood bar at night; and lastly, a four-stool stainless steel kitchen counter that overlooks the chefs at work. With 140 seats inside and seating for 100 outside on the patio, SER looks to position itself as a lively destination.
 The ‘Mr. Marshall’ sherry cocktail We started our evening’s journey at the drinks bar with a Manzanilla sherry cocktail they call ‘Mr. Marshall’. No, it was not named after my grandfather, but the famous Virginia General, George C., architect of the Marshall Plan. Nonetheless it proved an auspicious welcome, as it was nicely paired with a few nibbles of Iberican ham, pan Catalana (a type of bruschetta) and an assortment of Habanico de Croquetas – – all typical of Spanish hors d’oeuvres.
At the raw bar we indulged in local oysters with green apple granite, octopus marinated with picadillo and a unique Spanish delicacy, steamed gooseneck percebes, which are tiny sea barnacles.
 Kokotxas At the kitchen bar we watched as Josu wowed us with a Basque dish called kokotxas – – an ethereal preparation of cod cheeks poached in emulsified olive oil, garlic and wine, and dotted with green peas. Continuing the evening’s odyssey we entered the kitchen through homey flowered chintz curtains (one of Christiana’s charming design touches) to find the chefs preparing paella negra, the delectable squid and rice dish that incorporates the squid’s ‘ink’.
 Oysters picadillo – Paella negra as seen from the kitchen counter bar For the grande bouffe we lingered at a gold leather banquette and Josu brought out the cochinello, a whole roast pig that he adeptly carved in the Spanish tradition – – with a plate, I might add!
Dessert, a pineapple crujiete with saffron, a custard-filled tart with micro-slices of pineapple, and an addictive Asturian rice pudding floated to the table, as we demurred a suggestion to engage in Spain’s tradition of an after dinner ‘Gin Tonic’.
 After many wine pairings we end with Pineapple crujiete SER is undoubtedly one of the loveliest and most relaxed spots to enjoy a meal, drinks with friends, or just a quick nosh. And if I handed out stars (don’t get me ‘star’-ted!), they would own a galaxy!
The Kennedy Center Embraces Spain and Portugal
The Iberian Festival, now on at the Kennedy Center, will be offering culinary and literature programs through March 24th. Iberian Suite: global arts remix celebrates the many cultures that comprise the Portuguese-and Spanish-speaking people and their worldwide impact.
The culinary portion of the festival offers a variety of ways to engage, and thankfully, to taste an array of the regions’ culinary offerings at special dining events with acclaimed chefs at outside venues.
Join me at the March 16th dinner A Taste of Spain featuring Chef Rive Pérez Castro at the Embassy of Spain. (Use this link for tickets.) Chef Rive Pérez, the Executive Chef for the Embassy of Spain and Ramon Martínez, Executive Chef of Jose Andrés’s Jaleo, will give a talk on Spanish gastronomy.
In addition, a three-day (March 14-16) literature series will be moderated by Marie Arana (novelist, biographer, Writer-at-Large for the Washington Post, and Senior Advisor to the U.S. Librarian of Congress) and offers an array of literary voices, reaching from Spain and Portugal to Latin America, as well as Africa and the Caribbean. A number of novelists, playwrights, poets, essayists, and translators will gather to celebrate the legacies of this worldwide culture.
On March 15th the program Song for Iberia: Six Voices of Literary Masters Then and Now will feature six writers, César Aira, Juan Gabriel Vásquez, Dulce María Cardoso, Javier Cercas, Alonso Cueto, and Carmen Boullosa, speaking about their work with recorded interstices from earlier literary luminaries.
For more information about the festival’s many events visit www.Kennedy-Center.org.
Photo credit – Jordan Wright
Jordan Wright
March 9, 2015
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
Great Pre-Theatre Dining Deals From Area Restaurants
When friends ask me where to dine before the theatre I try to respond authoritatively. But, alas, my brain turns to porridge as I mentally scroll through the limitless options. I try to hone it down by asking which theatre you’re going to? What kind of food do you prefer? Do you need parking or Metro nearby? Want something hip and trendy or white linen gourmet? As an early diner you’ll have great three-course menus to choose from before the swells arrive. Here are four dazzling spots to dine before the curtain rises on the evening’s entertainment. I‘ll be adding and updating restaurants to this new series in the coming months, so stay tuned to this site.
 Rasika West End – Photo Credit: Robert Miller The award-winning Rasika Penn Quarter and its sister restaurant, Rasika West End (close to Kennedy Center) offer a three-course, pre-theatre menu priced at $35 (excluding tax and gratuity). It’s available at both Rasika Penn Quarter and West End from Monday – Thursday, from 5:30pm till 6:30pm, and Friday and Saturday, from 5pm till 6:30pm. Executive Chef Vikram Sunderam who oversees both spots will offer guests signature dishes such as Palak Chaat, crispy baby spinach, sweet yogurt, tamarind and date chutney; Tandoor Salmon with cinnamon and black pepper, and Lamb Rajasthani with almonds, green cardamom and ginger. Dessert options are Gulab Jamun with ice cream; Carrot Halwa with cinnamon sabayon and cinnamon honey ice cream, or Rice Pudding.
 Executive Chef Vikram Sunderam – Photo credit Greg Powers Rasika Penn Quarter at 633 D Street, NW, 20004 offers validated valet parking with dinner service for $8. Rasika West End is located at 1190 New Hampshire Avenue, NW, 20037. Valet parking is available during dinner service for $8. For the Penn Quarter location call 202 637-1222. For the West End location call 202 466-2500 or visit http://www.rasikarestaurant.com.
 nopa Kitchen + Bar nopa Kitchen + Bar offers a three-course, pre-theatre menu prepared by newly appointed Executive Chef Matt Kuhn. This special dinner is priced at $35 per person (excluding tax and gratuity) and is served Monday through Friday, from 5:30 PM to 6:30 PM, and Saturday and Sunday, from 5pm till 6:30pm. Standout dishes include Peppery Asian Greens Salad with honey crisp apples, candied pecans, Grafton cheddar and cider vinaigrette; Farro & Black Quinoa Risotto with sage pumpkin seed pesto, Kabocha squash, baby sweet potatoes and truffle pecorino, and Beef Coulotte Steak Frites with crispy fingerlings, Winterbor kale and a smoked blue cheese sauce. For dessert, guests have a choice of Pastry Chef Jemil Gadea’s Profiteroles, Gianduja chocolate ice cream filled choux pastry, caramel banana puree and a praline crunch, or the Lime Bar with lime curd, Meyer lemon lavender sable, roasted pineapple, white chocolate powder and prickly pear sorbet, The chef also offers a daily selection of sorbets. nopa Kitchen + Bar offers valet parking for $10 per car with dinner validation. The restaurant is located a few steps from the Verizon Center at 800 F Street, NW. For reservations or additional information call 202 347-4667 or visit www.nopadc.com.
 701 Restaurant Dining A Washington institution, 701 Restaurant offers modern American cuisine created by Executive Chef Benjamin Lambert. A three-course, pre-theatre menu is priced at $35 per person from 5:30pm till 6:45pm Monday – Saturday, and from 5pm to 9:30pm on Sunday. Guests have the choice of Roasted Beet Salad with labne, walnuts and pomegranate vinaigrette; Braised Green Circle Chicken with chickpeas, kabocha squash and preserved lemon; Skuna Bay Salmon with mustard spaetzle, pecans, pomegranate and broccoli; Potato-Coconut Soup with lemongrass oil, mussels and cilantro, as well as Butternut Fonduta Agnolotti with Brussels sprouts, brown butter and cranberry gastrique. For dessert, choose from Chocolate Pots de Creme with salted caramel, mint ice cream and brownie bits; Sticky Bun Parfait with candied pecans, brown butter ice cream and streusel, or seasonal sorbets served with fruit and chocolate biscotti. Located at 701 Pennsylvania Ave, NW, 20004, 701 offers valet parking Monday – Saturday for $8 with dinner validation. For reservations or information call 202 393-0701 or visit http://www.701restaurant.com.
 Executive Chef Orlando Amaro Station 4 offers a three-course, pre-theatre menu Tuesday – Sunday, from 5pm till 7pm, with dishes that feature a Mediterranean twist on Modern American cuisine. Helmed by Executive Chef Orlando Amaro, the restaurant is two blocks from Arena Stage and the Waterfront Metro. Guests can enjoy a three-course menu for only $35 per person (excluding tax and gratuity) and walk to the performance. Standout dishes from Station 4’s pre-theatre menu include Crab Fritters with charred scallion emulsion and caramelized lemon; Honey Crisp Apple Salad with baby arugula, shaved stilton cheese, pecans and pomegranate vinaigrette; Lamb Neck Rigatoni with roasted Colorado lamb sugo, fresh sweet peas and pecorino romano; Pan Roasted Scottish Salmon with ragout of chorizo, chickpeas, kale, button mushrooms, served with a green olive vinaigrette and artichokes; or Mushroom Quinoa with oyster and button mushrooms and white truffle oil. For dessert, guests can indulge in sweet treats such as Pecan Pie with vanilla gelato or Wild Strawberry Tart with crème anglaise and aged balsamic vinegar. For those too full for dessert with dinner, Station 4 invites you to return for your dessert course after the show. Located at 1101 4th Street, SW, you can walk there from the theatre, which offers valet parking, or use the nearby parking garage. For additional information and reservations call 202 488-0987, or visit www.station4dc.com.
 Masala Art Restaurant Masala Art is the new kid on the block – – a few doors down from Station 4 and two blocks from Arena Stage. This stylish Indian restaurant opened last July and is a unique experience. The three-course menu is $35 per person (excluding tax and gratuity) and must be ordered before 6:30pm. Main courses are served with pulao rice and bread. Appetizer choices are Kafir Lime and Basil Chicken Tikka marinated with spices and flavored with basil and kafir lime leaves; Mutton ki Nizami Pudina Seekh lamb flavored with jalapenos and mint; Pyaz ki Bhaji onion rings in chickpea batter; Broccoli; and Peas Tikki patties of broccoli and peas stuffed with drunken raisins. Entrée choices range from Murg Tikka Lababdar chicken tikka in chunky onion tomato sauce; Elaichi Gosht lamb in green cardamom sauce; Alleppie Fish Curry Southern Indian style fish curry in chili coconut sauce and kokum; Gobhi Tak a Tin cauliflower tossed with onion and bell pepper flavored with fenugreek leaves; Bhindi Amchoori okra flavored with onion and mango powder. These last two dishes are served with dal makhani and baingan bharta. Dessert choices are Gulab Jamun with cardamom ice cream; Litchee Gulkand ki Kheer rice pudding with litchee and sweet rose petal preserve; or your choice of ice cream or sorbet. Located at 1101 4th Street, SW, there is a parking garage nearby. For reservations call 202 554-1101.
Jordan Wright
March 2, 2015
Kim Crawford Winery Debuts Small Batch Wines in America
My favorite way to taste wines is over a long and languorous meal. Not only does it afford the necessary time to let the wines breathe, but allows time enough for me to ponder their potential and assess their potability. To that end Matt Deller, Kim Crawford’s international Brand Ambassador, suggested a dinner at Lost Society in DC. Matt would be my guide to the micro-cuvées from New Zealand’s world-class Kim Crawford wines and I would be his willing guinea pig. A role that when it involves food or wine, I accept graciously.
 Kim Crawford wines at Lost Society The up-one-flight-of-stairs restaurant along the 14th Street corridor apologizes in menu notes for not being the stuffy setting of your father’s expectations. Nevertheless it considers itself “a true steakhouse”. There are also remarks preemptively excusing their penchant for indiscriminate tardiness in seating guests, even pre-apologizing for the noise level and the proximity of the tables. They do however aspire to adopt the cozy informality of at-home dining in the hopes of achieving what they refer to as, “the injection of a dynamic, animated experience”. Forewarned is forearmed. So don’t expect to conduct a hasty pre-theatre supper, an intimate conversation, or even a swift business meeting. Just sit back, relax and plan on being “in the Lost Way” as they prefer to describe the experience.
Blessedly none of these annoying lapses in comfort and courtesy came to pass at dinner. During our three hours of sipping, dining and ruminating we had some terrific food and exceptional wines from the newly launched Kim Crawford “Small Parcel” Reserve Collection.
To set the tone I ask you to put yourself in the beautiful countryside of New Zealand. Then conjure up the magical setting of the North Island, home to “The Hobbit” and “The Lord of the Rings”. Now leap across the water and beyond the southern tip of that region to the northernmost end of the South Island. There you will discover the breathtaking mountains and deeply carved valleys of the Marlborough region – – the backdrop and unique terroir for these five wines.
We began with FIZZ. Akin to champagne and made in the same tradition, it is a charming sparkler made with 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay grapes. It signals lemon, grapefruit, apple and white peach with a yeasty hint of brioche and caught my favor with its delicate effervescence.
 (l-r) Fizz, Favourite Homestead Pinot Gris, Wild Grace Chardonnay, Spitfire Sauvigon Blanc, Rise and Shine Pinot Noir We moved on to ‘Favorite Homestead’, a Pinot Gris from the Awatere Valley, that was particularly lovely. Its flavor profile develops from cooling Antarctic winds, silt loam soil and the Acacia wood barrels that are pressed into service in one fifth of the fermenting process. As such it climaxes in ripe honeysuckle, cinnamon, apple and pear notes.
Another charmer is the ‘Rise and Shine’ Pinot Noir made from grapes grown beside Lake Dunstan in Central Otago’s cool climate and low rainfall region. We sampled the 2012 vintage, which showed itself a tad youthful. A couple of years cellared would reveal its full range of blackberry, cherry, oak and spice flavors.
 Crab stuffed lobster at Lost Society Delicious dishes accompanied each of the wines which included the minerally “Wild Grace” Chardonnay, the “Spitfire” Sauvignon Blanc, and the “Rise and Shine” Pinot Noir. Once seated Lost Society doesn’t rush you and we took our time feasting on Wagyu Beef Carpaccio, Stuffed Lobster with Blue Crab, Bone-in Ribeye with Mushroom Cream, Fried Caesar Parmesan Brussels sprouts and Pan Roasted Mushrooms. Dessert, if we had any, is a blur. I’m sure you understand.
Recently Constellation New Zealand, the producers of Kim Crawford and Nobilo wines spoke about their excitement for the 2013 harvest, believing it will be a memorable vintage and calling it the “Vintage of a Lifetime”.
New Zealand’s Chief Winemaker, Darryl Woolley noted, “the 2013 Marlborough growing season has been exemplary.” In addition to earning the distinction for being New Zealand’s driest growing season in about 70 years, the 2013 vintage has also benefited from the sunniest first three months of the year since 1930, rivaled in observed history only by the 1978 season.”
Speaking of the Hawkes Bay vineyards Woolley said, “We’ve had a perfect mix of warm, but not hot, days and cool nights. Rain fell at the right part of the growing cycle and, more importantly, did not fall during the critical period leading up to harvest. This resulted in a medium sized crop of exceptionally high quality grapes.” In-the-know wine experts around the world have also taken notice.
According to Mr. Woolley, consumers can expect flavorful, delicious white wines from the 2013 vintage. “The Sauvignon Blanc displays the complete range of ripe flavor components and zingy acidity without a hint of unripe green, vegetal notes.” In addition to the classic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, the Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling “were all picked at the optimum date and are very varietal expressive with ripe, well balanced acidity.” With the Pinot Noir harvest concluded in late April in the Marlborough and Central Otago regions, he remarked, “The Pinot Noir has an excellent field balance, with soft, ripe acidity and tannins. We are especially looking to great things from the stunning Pinot Noir harvested from our Central Otago growers.”
“The reality is, we only got serious about growing Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough 30 to 40 years ago, so that’s as far back as we can go in comparing vintages. That said, we’re feeling confident that the 2013 vintage will easily be one of the best, if not the very best, of the past 20 to 30 years.”
Kim Crawford and Nobilo drinkers can look forward to these extraordinary 2013 vintage wines. To keep track visit ExperienceKimCrawford.com.
Here are some local retail stores where you can purchase Kim Crawford Wines.
Marbi – 1730 Rhode Island Ave., NW Washington, DC 20036; Whole Foods Market – 1440 P St. NW, Washington, DC, 20005; Barrel House -1341 14th St. NW, Washington, DC, 20005; Sav On Liquors – 1414 14th St. NW, Washington, DC 20005; The Wine Specialist – 1133 20th St. NW, Washington, DC 20036; Trader Joe’s – 1914 14th St. NW, Washington, DC 20009 – Barmy Wine & Liquor – 1912 L St. NW, Washington DC 20036; Harris Teeter – 600 N Glebe Rd., Arlington, VA, 22203.
February 5, 2015
Cary Pollak for Whisk and Quill
This year’s Washington Humane Society’s annual Sugar & Champagne Affair was a fabulous event for dogs and dog lovers. Once again guests and their beloved canines filled the atrium of the Ronald Reagan Building and International Trade Center with all manner of things sweet, sparkly and even savory. After all, we must have a balanced diet. For the 14th straight year many of our area’s preeminent chefs showed off their talents to benefit the Society and pay tribute to their Field Services team who last year responded to over 18,000 calls to help animals in need.
 Guests gather in the atrium This delicious event that puts the “fun” back in fundraiser, was conceived by Ellen Kassoff Gray. Ellen, who serves as chairwoman of the host committee, co-hosted the posh event along with husband and uber chef Todd Gray. Together the DC power couple own Equinox Restaurant, while Todd doubles his chef duties as Culinary Director of the Salamander Resort & Spa in the tony horse country of Middleburg, VA.
As always many of the attendees were of the adorable canine sort. Pooches of all stripes, some dressed to the nines and others au naturel, strutted their stuff to the delight of the guests.
 Liz Sara, Founder of Best Marketing, LLC with Crystal) // Kristine Saja’s, Quinn, adopted from the Washington Humane Society and pretty in pink The main event was a reception in the atrium featuring scrumptious desserts. Event sponsors TCMA, Volkswagen, Equinox, Salamander Hotels & Resorts, The Sugar Association, Olde Towne Pet Resort, Social Light and Chef’s Roll were supported by media sponsors Zohar Rom’s Portfolio, The Virginia Maryland Dog, NOVADog Magazine, Travelzoo, Bisnow, Yelp and The Hill.
Tidbits and libations from dozens of restaurants, bars and bakeries came from The Source by Wolfgang Puck, Poste Modern Brasserie, Plume, Baklava Couture, Shake Shack, Sticky Fingers Bakery, Society Fair, The Hamilton, Bastille, Hank’s Oyster Bar, Lilly Magilly’s Cupcakery, Occidental, Bearnaise, Co Co. Sala, The Dairy Godmother, Dolci Gelati, Brasserie Beck and a host of other well-known spots. A VIP room offered savory tastings and craft cocktails. New this year was the “Exclusive Experience” a chance for a limited number of guests to learn how to make desserts, create specialty cocktails and watch unusual demonstrations such as how to make “dip-n-dots” using liquid nitrogen.
 Salamander Resort Public Relations Manager Vanessa Casas serves seared tuna and accompaniments
 Sweet Potato and Anise pastries from Slate Wine Bar and Bistro // Marinated shrimp from Richard Sandoval’s new Mango Tree restaurant One of the most memorable pastry displays was designed by the kitchen staff of the International Trade Center whose talented crew is known for creating miniature dessert masterpieces. They deserved to take a “bowwow” for their pâte à choux Animal Park that perfectly fit the evening’s theme. Using the versatile, classic French pastry dough, best known to most dessert lovers as the crusty part of the éclair, they fashioned a “Puff Poodle,” “Choux aux Kitty,” “Vanilla Pooch Puff” and lots more pup-themed treats.
 Pate a Choux display // Choux aux Kitty pastries Be sure to keep a slot open on your calendar for the 2016 Sugar & Champagne Affair. It’s a worthy cause and a rollicking good time for you and your four-legged friends.
Photo credit – Cary Pollak
Jordan Wright
February 2, 2015
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
 Chef Chris Lusk At forty-one, East Texas native and Johnson & Wales grad, Chris Lusk has seen the ins and outs of a few restaurant kitchens and learned a wide variety of international cuisines. After an externship in an Irish hotel he cooked Tex-Mex at Stephen Pyles’ Star Canyon in Dallas, Asian cuisine at an unnamed restaurant in Florida, and Italian at Otto Enoteca under Mario Batali. Later he worked with the iconic Brennan family’s Foodie’s Kitchen in Metairie and more recently at Commander’s Palace and Café Adelaide where he honed his Creole and Southern-style cooking. He is now Chef de Cuisine at Restaurant R’evolution in New Orleans.
At DC’s Acadiana in a room filled with shuckers, chefs, industry lobbyists and oyster lovers at the Gulf Oyster Industry Council’s Washington, DC event last month, I met Lusk over a platter of his incredible Crispy Oysters Rockefeller.
Jordan Wright – Can you describe the twist you put on the classic dish?
Chris Lusk – Traditionally it would be served on the half shell with a puree of purslane, chives, capers and other greens, then spiked with absinthe. Though it’s often spiked with Herbsaint, it really hadn’t been invented yet. So absinthe is used. Then it would be finished with breadcrumbs. My version has a crust made from dehydrated spinach, chives, green onions, breadcrumbs and Parmesan. Then it’s garnished with more Parmesan and a pesto made of green onions, chives and olive oil then spiked with absinthe. To prepare the oysters we drained the liquor off and marinated them the pesto then rolled in the breadcrumb mix. The crust really adheres to it. Then we flash fry them till oyster begins to plump and it’s still moist inside and crispy on the outside.
What we’re getting at this time of year is a smaller oyster. They go through phases during the year. I prefer to use a medium-sized oyster. At this time of year they are thriving in the cool water and they’re the perfect size and salinity.
You’ve been named one of Esquire magazine’s “Four Breakout Chefs to Watch”, cooked at the James Beard House and won the Louisiana Seafood Cookoff. What’s next?
I don’t know. I have a larger operation and bigger kitchen here with Restaurant R’evolution in New Orleans, and have a lot going on right now. They just opened their second restaurant, Seafood R’evolution outside of Jackson, MS in Ridgeland. It’s similar in concept but with more seafood.
Can you tell us about the dessert you prepared which prompted Esquire’s John Mariani’s to award you the “Best Dessert of 2011”?
It was a white chocolate biscuit pudding, a play on a dish my grandmother made when I was growing up. New Orleans is famous for bread pudding so my spin on it was what I was exposed to as a child where my grandmother used the leftover biscuits from breakfast. I took that inspiration and added white chocolate and a bit of Barq’s Root Beer Syrup on top, it’s an iconic soft drink that once was made here. Then I fried some pecans, which are from around here, as a garnish and I serve it with white chocolate ice cream.
I was very fortunate growing up to be exposed to farming. Growing up I spent summers with my grandparents who were farmers and I learned about canning and pickling using ingredients from the farm. My other grandparents were ranchers and raised cattle and hogs so we made sausage and used different cuts of meat. I’m thankful that I had the opportunity to learn about farming and ranching growing up.
I understand you are continuing your study of both Cajun and Creole cuisines. Can you talk about the differences between these two venerable cuisines?
Creole is more of the refined version of the French, Italian, German, and even African influences and Cajun reflects the more rustic, spicier and bolder flavors. Most Cajun is one-pot meals like jambalaya, gumbos, chicken fricasee and etoufées. What you see in New Orleans are the French dishes indicative of Creole. The use of Pernod, Herbsaint and absinthe lean more towards the Creole side. Although a lot of the lines have become blurred now – – and you can see the Creole and Cajun coming together.
Would you say you’re a fan of Paul Prudhomme, Emeril Lagasse or Justin Wilson?
That’s a hard question because I’m a fan of all of them for different reasons. Justin Wilson gave the first glimpse of what Cajun regional cuisine is. Prudhomme went to the next level with blackened fish, K-Paul’s and Commander’s Palace. He really put it out there on a larger scale. Then Emeril took it one step further. Those three guys have enabled me and my generation and the generation after mine to do what we do in New Orleans. Those guys are the ones that gave the younger chefs the opportunity to push the boundaries.
What are your favorite cookbooks?
I have Lafcadio Hearn and many others. My cookbook collection is all over the place – – Paul Prudhomme, Wilson’s books, Harold McGee and many others have influenced me in my style of cooking, including a lot of ethnic cookbooks that I use in different techniques of frying or pickling – like Japanese for instance. I learn from everyone including my dishwashers and sous chefs. You can never become too educated to learn from someone. Some of the most amazing meals I’ve ever had have been staff meals. The thing about New Orleans is everybody can cook here!
Opened in 1880 Commander’s Palace is one of the great American restaurants of all time. What did you learn while you were there?
That’s when I really started my education apart from culinary school. It really opened my eyes to Southern food. I learned a lot.
What signature dishes are you preparing at Restaurant R’evolution, the French Quarter spot where you are cooking now?
One of the dishes I recently put on was inspired by Vietnamese cuisine. It’s a Hoisin Glazed Grouper tied in with a blue crab pho broth and served with lightly pickled vegetables and rice noodles.
What new ingredients or techniques are on your radar these days?
I’m using lot of Asian ingredients like four different types of soy sauce such as Japanese and Filipino for curing eggs and making marinades, also different types of fish sauce and Indian spices. Sometimes just for myself I make sushi rice with marinated cobia and fresh wasabi. I’m inspired by the Vietnamese fishermen we have here.
Who was your first inspiration in the kitchen?
My grandparents were farmers and raised cattle and grandpa made sausage, things that are very popular now, so I was really fortunate as a child. I lived in a small city but spent summers with my grandparents who had a lot of land. We’d sit around and shuck corn, pick peas and can together. We do a lot of that at the restaurant pickles, jams etc. My grandpa used to clean out Coke bottles and make his own tomato juice and put the caps back on them. Man, that was the best tomato juice I’ve ever had!
What was the first dish you learned to cook and who did you serve it to?
I learned to make scrambled eggs as a child that I served to my mom and dad. I’m sure they were pretty rubbery and overcooked, but they were pretty nice about it.
What famous person would you like to prepare dinner for?
Thomas Keller.
Wow! No stress there.
Ha! No stress in that! I’m a big fan!
Jordan Wright
January 14, 2015
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
 Chef Peter Chang One of the featured chefs for the Sips & Suppers dinners coming up next week is Peter Chang – an elusive chef known for ditching restaurant kitchens like a discardable cell phone. At last he has found in another accomplished chef, Gen Lee, the perfect partner to build an empire. The duo has already opened six successful restaurants around Virginia, with Arlington scheduled to open early February and another outpost in Rockville in March.
I’ve been a lucky duck to sample his cuisine twice in my life – once at a sumptuous banquet when he was the executive chef at DC’s Chinese Embassy in the 90’s, though I wasn’t aware he was the chef that oversaw the dozens of dishes offered at that lavish banquet. Years later on a hot tip I sought out his cooking at an obscure Chinese restaurant in a strip mall at the corner of Duke and Van Dorn in Alexandria.
Chang doesn’t dumb down his food for American palates. And it’s not for the faint of heart. As I recall the dish was the hottest, saltiest and most addictive chili pepper chicken I’d ever experienced. I have never forgotten it. By the time I planned on a return visit, he had scampered off for parts unknown leaving a trail of desperate fanatics in his wake.
Chang, who speaks no English, allows Gen Lee to act as his spokesperson. The two have cooked together for many years.
Whisk and Quill – Do you see everything in a yin/yang balance?
Gen Lee – Yes. It’s always going to be like that for us. In Sichuan Province it is very hot and wet and filled with trees. People who live there have to eat a lot of spicy food that’s why they use the Sichuan peppers.
Does Peter cook in one of the VA restaurants now?
Not on a daily basis. He cooks for parties and special events, but he also checks on every restaurant on a weekly basis. He’s very strict about that. I can’t tell you which restaurant he is cooking in at any given time, but he’s always cooking and he’s always training his cooks to get it right. We’re happy if its 90% right, because our recipes are very, very difficult. We don’t use sauce. For ten years when Peter and I worked as corporate chefs on a riverboat on the Yangtze River, we did the real, real Sichuan there.
How young was Peter when he first started cooking?
He was in high school. He always knew he wanted to cook and he went to cooking school at 18. He always watched his grandma cooking and helped her make lots of vegetarian dishes. You know, we don’t use much meat, but lots of vegetables mushrooms and such.
Does Peter listen to music when he’s cooking?
No, it’s very difficult. Everything is very quick. There are 20 different spices – different ones for different dishes – and it all happens fast.
What are some of the restaurants’ signature dishes?
The cumin lamb chops and bamboo fish, and everyone orders the dry-fried eggplant cut like steak fries.
Would you say your dishes are classic Sichuan?
Yes, it’s his specialty. But, for example, they don’t use lamb chops in China and the difference is the ingredients are better quality here.
Lately American chefs are using Asian ingredients in fusion cuisine and mixing things up. Where do you see this going?
A lot of chefs try it using French techniques. They are not using the real Chinese techniques and that worries me. These chefs are not Chinese. They are Hispanic or Korean. There are only a handful of real Chinese chefs here in America.
Chinese food has been losing favor to Thai and Korean in the past decade or so. Do you hope to bring back Chinese food to its earlier popularity?
Our dream is to bring back the real Chinese food, not just to make money. In a few years we know we can retire, but it’s not about that. Right now we have six restaurants. Already in our Richmond restaurant we are doing 500-600 a day. It’s like a war zone with like 100 people in line every day.
Will you be opening in the Northern Virginia area soon?
Yes, we will have two more restaurants – – one in Arlington and soon after in Rockville.
This interview was conducted, edited and condensed by Jordan Wright.
Dozens of prestigious local, national and world-renowned chefs will prepare the Sips & Suppers dinners on Sunday, January 25th. A separate evening of chef’s treats and cocktails takes place on Saturday, January 24th. Expect appearances by Joan Nathan, Jose Andres and Alice Waters. For further information and to purchase tickets to the fundraiser for Martha’s Table and DC Central Kitchen visit www.sips2015.eventbrite.com and www.suppers2015.eventbrite.com.
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