Nibbles and Sips – CELEBRATING THE SMALL PLATE – TASTY AND FUN AROUND TOWN

Jordan Wright
Whisk and Quill
October 28, 2009

Set your foodie circadian clocks to coordinate with the migration of the monarch butterflies, “las mariposas”, to Michoacan, Mexico and you’ll be right in time for the “Day of the Dead” celebration. From now until November 1st Oyamel Restaurant is featuring a special menu to mark this hallowed holiday that reveres our dead ancestors. Spooky is right on schedule.

Start with a “Sloe Dead Fizz”, an irresistible cocktail of gin, brandy chartreuse, lemon juice and egg whites and sample the array of “antojitos”, small plates at small prices. These tamales, created by Chef Joe Raffa use some modern and some ancient techniques taught to him by the renowned Mexican cooking authority Diana Kennedy.

The fragrant “hoja santa” leaf figures into a tamal from Oaxaca made with corn masa and pinto beans served with a cream foam. There are five other varieties but my favorite is a tamal from the state of Michoacan. Its filling of shredded pork, almonds, raisins and pickled jalapenos is in Swiss chard wrap for a smoky, sweet, spicy treat.

End with the delicate tamal canario made with rice flour and raisins and served with creamy spiced Mexican hot chocolate.

Secret kitchen tip: Raffa uses Hoppin’ John’s grits from Taylor, GA to replicate the heirloom taste of Native American corn.

Over at Zaytinya they are excited about the flavors and wines of Lebanon. This fall they feature a festival of “mezze oras” which begins November 9th and continues on till the 22nd.

Mezzes spell yummy yet noncommittal for the diner who will enjoy grazing the tempting flavors that Chef Mike Isabella has conjured up. My favorites are Asbit el Djaj, crispy chicken livers with sumac, pomegranate and mint; Fluke Kibbeh Nayeh with bulghur, mint, radish and smoked trout roe; Duck Boureki, Isabella’s interpretation of spiced duck leg in phyllo with a hot pepper labneh; and Mahanek, an in-house made lamb sausage with currants and preserved lemon jus.

The wines from Chateau Musar were a revelation for this writer who has never previously forayed into the world of Lebanese wines…but will return. Ask your server to open the cabernets upon your arrival, before you get to the richer flavored mezzes.

Several new desserts are offered during the festival, Aawamat, crispy doughnuts with honey, rose syrup and pistachios, and Kaak-t Araa, a warm pumpkin cake with dates and labneh sorbet. Both are complemented with a glass of Moscatel from Chateau Ksara or an iced decanter of El Massaya Arak the licorice-flavored “pastis” of the Middle East.

The new Masa 14 is surprising even its owners with its wild success. In their first week Richard Sandoval of Zengo in DC, Ketsi in the Four Seasons’ Punta Mita Mexico resort, and La Sandia in Tysons Corner and Kaz Okochi of Kaz Sushi Bistro on I Street served over 1000 guests. Wedged between the Black Cat and the Source Theatre it features Latin-Asian fusion. On my visit last Thursday the 65-seat bar was jam-packed.

The space, a former carpet showroom, has been beautifully restored and accommodates a 100-seat dining room. Red glass lamps punctuate the ceiling and cast a warm glow on the lively scene and the aroma from the wood-fired oven brings a cozy feel. This is a great place to meet friends. Prices are low and plates are meant for sharing. If you’re a tequila fanatic they offer over 120 different tequilas.

Outstanding dishes:
Tuna ceviche with coconut, pineapple and pico de gallo
Tuna Sashimi Flatbread from their wood-fired oven (Don’t ask me to choose between the tunas.)
Masa-panko calamari (nicely charred) with madras curry, lime, red jalapeno, cilantro, mint and sweet and spicy chile sauce
Kobe beef and pork meatballs
Hijiki seaweed-jicama salad with sesame, chayote and daikon sprouts

Look for their Saturday and Sunday brunches to start in November.

www.oyamel.com
www.zaytinya.com
www.masa14.com

For questions and comments contact [email protected]