Jordan Wright
May 26, 2014
all photo credit to Jordan Wright
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
Taberna del Alabardero Celebrates 25 Years, Toro Toro Opens, New Farmers Market Opens in Mosaic District, Cassatt/Degas Exhibit at the National Gallery of Art, Great Taste of Tyson’s, and “Fed Up” Makes the Case Against Sugar
Twenty-Five Years and Counting
 25th Anniversary at Taberna del Alabardero Taberna del Alabardero has been a favorite destination of mine since working in the Aviation and Aerospace industry back in the 90’s. As the point person for staging small yet high-level events, I arranged several dinners in their beautiful private dining rooms a few blocks from the White House. These were exquisitely prepared meals that showcased regionally authentic dishes. Seafood paellas, slow-braised oxtail and roast suckling pig, a specialty of Segovia, can still be found on the menu. On a few evenings our guests were honored with an appearance by His Excellency, the Spanish Ambassador.
As a chic watering hole for royals there is hardly another spot in town to rival it. From princes to kings and pop stars to diplomats, all have been taken by its elegant charms and authentic Spanish cuisine prepared by Executive Chef Javier Romero and his talented team.
Have I mentioned the impeccable service? It’s like dining in a luxury hotel in Europe in decades past or a favorite café where you know everyone at the bar. In summer, tables are set up along the street and sharing tapas and pintxos, letting paper-thin slices of jamon de Iberico melt in your mouth, and downing pitchers of Sangria flavored with summer fruits can be just as pleasing.
 Father Luis de Lezama with author Joan Nathan Now in its 25th year founder Father Luis de Lezama, the man responsible for bringing the restaurant to Washington, DC, came to town to celebrate and to tell the story of the restaurant that almost didn’t open.
It was the 1980’s when de Lezama arrived in Washington looking for the perfect location to launch his restaurant. He had a vision to educate young men from impoverished families in Spain by teaching them the culinary arts. The priest was sent under the auspices and goodwill of the Spanish Government who seemed eager to underwrite his “American adventure”.
After securing the lease on a location on 18th Street, the National Bank of Spain, who had promised to underwrite the plan, backed out leaving de Lezama to fend for himself and somehow find new funds to bankroll his vision.
With little money, a high-rent lease to cover and dozens of eager trainees awaiting their journey and jobs in America, he was forced to eat dollar meals in a nearby shelter while pondering his fate from a cheap room at the YMCA.
Fifteen years earlier he had successfully opened the first Taberna del Alabardero in Madrid and the training school he had dreamed of was going strong. But now he was faced with more than just an embarrassment. It would be a devastating blow to the students. He decided to present his dilemma to the building’s landlord, Oliver Carr. Carr liked the idea immediately, backing the restaurant project and assuring the future for the young men back in Spain.
As de Lezama explains, “The most important value of Taberna del Alabardero is to preserve the Spanish gastronomy essence. There is no need of mixtures or “techno-emotional” cooking to present an actual cuisine. The gambas al ajillo (shrimp in garlic sauce) have to taste like they taste as do merluza en salsa verde (hake in green sauce), calamares en su tinta (calamari cooked in their own ink). They do not need any masking.”
 Seafood Paella Today the business group that de Lezama conceived has more than 700 employees, a foundation, three catering schools and renowned restaurants in Madrid, Marbella, Seville and Washington, DC.
Taberna hosts monthly wine dinners and special tastings, and has recently announced new catering services. Visit http://www.alabardero.com.
Toro Toro – Sandoval Opens His First DC Fine Dining Restaurant
 Toro Toro For international chef and restaurateur, Richard Sandoval, opening a fine dining establishment in DC was something he’d long planned to accomplish. Last month he opened the sleek, chic Toro Toro. His DC area restaurants now total five along with Ambar, El Centro, Masa 14 and Zengo, plus the nearby, La Sandia in Tyson’s Corner – – bringing his worldwide empire to 31 restaurants with such far-flung outposts as Dubai, Serbia, Qatar and Mexico.
I have now enjoyed Toro Toro on two separate occasions. My first experience was last month the day after they began service with a soft opening, and again when His Excellency Eduardo Medina-Mora, Ambassador from Mexico, was present for the ribbon cutting a few weeks later.
Richard Sandoval with His Excellency Ambassador Eduardo Medina-Mora and wife, Laura Perez Medina-Mora
I have always found Sandoval’s dishes to be exotic combinations of Latin-Pan Asian flavors. His deft hand shows a beautifully balanced command of complex and intriguing spices. And I must confess I have a soft spot for the seafood seviches served in his other restaurants.
But Toro Toro takes its cue from Brazilian churrasco, and I was disappointed by the inconsistency of the flame-cooked meats. We went for “The Rodizio Experience”, a menu selection that must be ordered by the entire table. It includes all you can eat of five cuts of meat, plus chorizo sausage and prawns. Though the chorizo and filet were blameless, the steaks, chicken and lamb chops had suffered mightily from under- or over-cooking. Some were so rare they resisted cutting. A rare filet is a godsend, but a too-rare lamb chop that necessitates using a seesaw slicing motion to dislodge a morsel, is not eater friendly. And, alas, some of the meats were flat out overdone. Clearly the kitchen needs practice with its new equipment. And perhaps it was entirely unfair of me to have gone in so soon. (A few weeks later Sandoval told me they were having trouble getting the flame-broiler adjusted.) However there are other churrascarias in town that have this meat-on-a-sword thing down pat and Toro Toro’s kitchen will have to step up their game to compete.
 Seared Seafood Seviche at Toro Toro As expected both seviches were carefully prepared, though the Seared Seafood Seviche, a concoction of prawns, calamari, scallops, ginger, leche de tigre and aji amarillo, was an appetizer that soared, as did the Cachapas, duck carnitas on corn pancakes with Oaxaca cheese and tomato jam. Simple but perfect. Having just watched Anthony Bourdain’s Oaxacan food adventure on CNN’s “Parts Unknown”, I’d give my eyeteeth to experience more of this ancient and complex cuisine.
Here’s the best of it. The service is sophisticated and attentive. A Catena Zapata “Vista Flores” (Malbec 2009) at $8.00 by the glass is a steal, there’s a Euro-style nightclub with DJ downstairs, and Pastry Chef Joseluis Flores’ desserts are beyond divine. They are swoon-worthy. (Look for next week’s interview with Flores.)
 The downstairs bar at Toro Toro Mosaic Central Farm Market Opens in Fairfax
In addition to founding Bethesda Central Farm Market and Pike Central Farm Market in Rockville, pioneer, innovator and co-founder of MeatCrafters, Mitch Berliner, has branched out into Virginia territory with the help of wife, Debra Moser, opening a third market in Fairfax’s new Mosaic District.
The Sunday morning market features over 30 farmers and artisanal food products and will be open until October. Each week a “Cook’s Corner” will feature local chefs who will demonstrate how to use some of the fresh fruits and veggies sold at the market. A series of cooking classes are also offered at $25.00 p.p. with all proceeds going to Manna Food Center.
 Mosaic Central Farm Market in Fairfax On June 7th Chef Lynn Foster will teach students how to prepare Chilled Asparagus Soup with Pea Shoot Garnish, Crispy Buffalo Chicken Salad with Baby Greens Slaw, Hoppin’ John Salad and Fresh Berries with Balsamic Sabayon. Students will enjoy eating all of these delicious dishes.
Foster, who was the chef/owner of Garrett Park Café for twelve years, has worked at the Tabard Inn, Great Sage and Laboratorio at Galileo with Roberto Donna. She has taught at L’Academie de Cuisine, Williams Sonoma and Sur La Table, and is currently a partner at Alchemy Caterers with Top Chef alum and co-host on ABC’s The Chew, Carla Hall.
Sign up at www.centralfarmmarkets.com where you’ll also find a list of vendors and farmers.
Cassatt and Degas Share the Spotlight at The National Gallery of Art
Anyone can twist my arm to visit the National Gallery of Art where I like to luxuriate beside the Garden Café’s fountain indulging in second helpings of Coq au Vin, Camembert and Chocolate Mousse. With thoughts of Degas and Cassatt whirling in my head, the buffet is even more appealing now. Michel Richard is the café’s consulting chef this year and who better to design the perfect French dejeuner menu to pair with these two artists’ work?
Though both Impressionists shunned the rendering of foodstuffs in favor of horses and ballerinas for him, and women and children for her, it’s because I think of these artists as quintessentially French that I automatically think of food. I’m sure you get my drift.
Still I look for the lost lines and the de rigeur painterly red. I scavenge the scumbled backgrounds and the artists’ change of heart in shifting the image’s placement. I look for clues and reasons, choices made and choices denied.
While scanning the provenance I take note of the medium employed and listen in to everyone’s comments from docent to tourist. I attempt to put it all in context within the period and the artist’s challenges while I read the panels that tell of Degas’ influence on Cassatt and vice versa. An older man, a younger woman. Platonic, we’re told. Who’s to say? A bottle of Sparkling Burgundy is only $31.50 at the café. You’ll want to ponder these things at your leisure before taking in the evocative Andrew Wyeth exhibition around the corner.
Degas/Cassatt runs through October 5th. Andrew Wyeth: Looking Out, Looking In through November 30th. Visit www.NGA.gov for more information.
The Great Tastes of Tysons
This weekend The Great Tastes of Tysons will be held at the Lerner Town Square beside the Tysons II Mall from 12pm to 6pm on Saturday and Sunday.
More than just a tasting, this tent-covered festival will bring together celebrity chefs, artisanal craftsmen, culinary pioneers, music and family entertainment, as well as international wines and spirits.
 Great Tastes of Tysons Over 150 wines, spirits and beers will be featured along with local and regional favorites. Guests will be able to sample all of the varieties on-site including special gin, scotch and rum tastings.
On the Cooking Stage on Saturday look for Todd Gray of Equinox, Bart Vandaele of Belga Café and B Too; Spike Mendelsohn of Good Stuff Eatery and Bearnaise, and Joe Yonan, editor of the Washington Post Food Section.
 Food writer Joe Yonan Sunday’s line up of superchefs includes Jonah Kim of Pabu Izakaya, Scott Drewno of The Source by Wolfgang Puck, and Michael Friedman of The Red Hen will be doing demos while Victor Albisu of Del Campo and Taco Bambo will be kick off the grilling South American style. Enjoy a live taping on Saturday at 1pm of the radio show “Foodie and Beast” with hosts Nycci and David Nellis.
 Scott Drewno, Executive Chef, The Source By Wolfgang Puck Headlining the live music are Looking for Lester, Sean Grace, David Back and the Texas Chainsaw Horns. For information visit www.tastetysons.com or call 1-800 830-3976.
“Fed Up” Opens and a Little Known Secret About Senator Cory Booker
 Evening at the US Capital Visitors Center The press screening for the new movie Fed Up was held in the US Capitol’s Visitor’s Center Theatre and New Jersey Senator Cory Booker was holding forth about the film’s topic – – that too many hidden sources of sugar, in all its deleterious forms, are the cause of obesity in America.
While this riveting documentary sets out to prove it with a dazzling array of scientific facts, it’s the story about four obese teens struggling to lose weight that pulls at the heartstrings. It even gets in a little dig at First Lady Michelle Obama for not standing up to the big corporations that sell these foods as school lunches – – something she forcefully addressed this week in a letter to the Washington Post when speaking about the Healthy Hunger-Free Kids Act.
 Fed Up panel Laurie David (l), Stephanie Soechtig (c), Michael Jacobson (r) Executive Producer Laurie David (Oscar-winning Producer of An Inconvenient Truth), Director Stephanie Soechtig, and Executive Director Michael Jacobson from the Center for Science in the Public Interest were on hand to hear Booker speak. Co-Producer Katie Couric was not in attendance.
 Senator Cory Booker introduces the film Booker spoke passionately about the film. He told the audience how important it was to understand how sugar can affect our health. But why? He admitted he once weighed 300 lbs. There was a gasp. He went on. This was something close to his heart and even closer to his waistline.
Did you know one soda a day increases a child’s chance of obesity by 60%? Visit this site for a wealth of facts about the dangers of too much sugar in our diets. http://fedupmovie.com
Jordan Wright
April 15, 2014
all photo credit to Jordan Wright
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts, Broadway Stars, and LocalKicks
In Which We Visit Union Market, Bidwell, the Launchology Series and Sample Nibbles and Sips From Zaytinya’s Upcoming Greek Easter Festival
 Union Market DC The Craveable Union Market
 The greengrocer’s stall at Union Market There are many things to lure the foodie to Union Market, the 140-year old recently renovated food hall that has been luring the food adventurer with its interesting jumble of cute stalls, that house a bespoke butcher, a juicery, bakers, kitchenware, a pickle maker and eclectic eateries.
 Harvey’s Market As a chef I have often been stymied by our area’s lack of good butchers and fishmongers. Where does the home cook go to find the ingredients necessary to replicate the sort of dishes they’ve had while dining out. For instance, where can you buy pork belly, guanciale, high quality calf’s liver and freshly cut veal shanks for home use? Try George Lesznar’s Harvey’s Market, a family owned business since 1931.
 Buffalo & Bergen at Union Market Who sells knishes fresh made bagels and New York style egg creams? Buffalo & Bergen’s throwback diner by Gina Chersevani is right here with a selection of fine crafted cocktails by the self-appointed ‘mixtress’.
Got a hankering for clams, oysters, shrimp or oyster chowder made with Benton’s bacon? Pull up a stool at the Rappahannock Oyster Bar for some of Travis and Ryan Croxton’s locally raised oysters and seafood specialties.
 “Porkstrami” sandwich at Red Apron Craving charcuterie or home made corned beef? Stroll over to Nathan Anda’s Red Apron stall for a “porkstrami” sandwich or a stacked muffaletta and a pint of locally brewed suds.
Wondering who is fermenting their own pickles? Snag some kosher style pickles and kraut at Number 1 Sons who prepare kale kimchi, caraway studded sauerkraut and an assortment of fabulous pickles.
 Toki Underground chef James Wozniuk at Union Market Can’t wait for Erik Bruner-Yang’s H Street market to open? Stop in at Toki Underground’s pop-up where Chef James Wozniuk has a few sit-down booths for dishes like ba vong and Khmer lemongrass grilled chicken with rice vermicelli.
On June 14th the market kicks off its third annual ‘Sunday Supper’ series featuring a star-studded lineup of the country’s finest chefs and mixologists including Jose Garces, Spike Gjerde, Emily Luchetti, Nick Stefanelli, John Mooney, Aggie Chin, Jeremiah Langhorne, Rob Duncan, Santosh Tiptur, and Derek Brown. For tickets and info contact Evelyn Hawkins at 301 347-3298 [email protected].
Bidwell at Union Market
 The marble bar at Bidwell Bidwell is the Union Market’s 120-seat anchor restaurant and high hopes were for it to reflect the market’s philosophy for locally grown produce and in-house made ingredients prepared by a locally known chef – – and that it does.
Known to DC diners from his days at Red Sage and Raku, chef/owner John Mooney signed on early to the project, securing the building’s vast rooftop to grow herbs, fruits and vegetables using “aeroponic” gardening. Last month I saw the beginnings of what promises to be an enormous garden where towers of plants will grow vertically. For now the precious seedlings start life in tiny pots in a back storage area strung with 24-hour grow lights. Mooney’s dedication to rooftop gardening that employs a system based on water, air and sunlight was honed over the years when as restaurant consultant for India’s Taj Hotel Group, he opened PURE by Michel Nischan, the country’s first organic restaurant. The well-traveled chef, whose love of cross-cultural cuisine is reflected in his latest restaurant, also owns Bell, Book & Candle in New York’s hip West Village.
 Escargots roasted with parsley butter and Yukon Gold potatoes The first thing you notice about Bidwell is its character. It is modern. So many are these days with that 50’s living room style that seems to be ubiquitously punctuated with spice orange accents. But here historic details are incorporated – – subway tiles, reclaimed wood and Italian marble – – giving the place an air of coziness. The large rectangular open concept room has an all-glass front that overlooks the outdoor dining. At the far end beyond the bar is an open kitchen with dining counter – – a perfect spot to view the organized chaos of the kitchen, and where my amiable dining partner and I had front row seats to all the action.
 At the Chet’s table with Chef de Cuisine Ines Campoamor Chef de Cuisine Ines Campoamor was in full command of the kitchen when we arrived. She is a whirlwind of efficiency, charm and energy who made a point of explaining every dish as it arrived. Admittedly we had a hard time selecting from all the alluring ‘Shared Bites’ and ‘Small Plates’ categories, so we ordered quite a few – – just to cover our bases, don’t you know.
 Red and Golden Beet Salad with melted Burrata Most outweighed their plebian descriptions far exceeding what we expected. Drunken Bean Dip was one such starter that didn’t sound particularly special, but we were urged to try it and we were glad we did. It uses Pork Slap Beer that rounds out the flavors and there’s an option to add the in-house made chorizo. I suggest you do.
 Crispy Fried Oysters We followed with sustainably raised Old Salt oysters that are prepared two different ways. We went back and forth on which to choose. But why not try both? Crispy Fried Oysters with green chile buttermilk dressing and Roasted Oysters with garlic butter, bacon and a parmesan crust topped with ribbons of frizzled celery root. We had to throw in the towel and call it a tie. You can decide for yourself.
 Marinated Fluke Sashimi For a delicate sashimi you can do no better than the Marinated Fluke Sashimi with citrus, a hint of jalapeno and chopped herbs. You’ll find herbs get star billing at Bidwell and are tucked into nearly every dish including, as you might expect, escargots with the de rigeur soupçon of Pernod, giving us pause to reflect that all was right with the world, if only as a fleeting illusion.
 Irish American Onion Soup Pacing ourselves not at all, we dove headlong into the Irish American Onion Soup shingled with Knockamore smoked Irish Cheddar. I loved this version that uses mushroom broth as its base, and the unusual smoky cheddar, so hard to find, must be sourced from an unnamed shop in New York City.
 A playful dessert from Bidwell For the destination dish, I suggest planning an entire visit around the Lobster Tacos. Better than lobster rolls, (Hold the bread, Downeasters!) they’re served on a soft taco with avocado-tomatillo salsa, and merit a plateful. Not so exciting was the “Gin & Tonic” Verlasso Salmon entrée. Dry as a bone after marinating for several hours before being hash-tag grilled. Poor fish. He could have used a lot less attention and a lot more care. A temporary setback which we immediately rectified with a root beer float and Ines’s playful dessert of brownies, ice cream cookie sandwiches and meringues. We were the boss of the goat’s milk caramel sauce in a baby squeeze bottle. http://unionmarketdc.com/market/artisans/bidwell/
The Launchology Series at The Howard Theatre
 The Launchology Series at the Howard Theatre In early April industree began presenting a fascinating insider look at the restaurant business with its ‘Launchology Series’. Promising “candid conversations, unfiltered advice and real stories from industry leaders”, all sessions are held at the Howard Theatre. Earlier this month I attended the second in the series of four. As a former restaurant owner, I was quite impressed to hear from a panel that pulled no punches and were unflinchingly honest about their experiences in the hospitality industry.
“We originally came up with the concept for Launchology as a result of one of the original speaker series events we hosted,” said Alisia Kleinmann, founder of industree. “Following that event, we were inundated with so many questions from members in the industry like, ‘How do I get a loan and a space? I want to go brick and mortar but don’t know how? How can we hire and keep great people?’ among other critical questions. So we thought, lets put on a series that explains everything that members in the industry need to know from people who have actually done it all – and not just any people, but some of the best in the business. And like our speaker series, we aim to keep it real. The advice, stories and insight our panelists can give to the next generation may not always paint a pretty picture, but we want them to understand exactly what they are getting into, and the best way to go about accomplishing their plans and goals.”
Local entrepreneurs who offered samples of their wares offered a quick breakfast. Among them Krave Jerky showed off their high protein, all-natural line of turkey, pork and beef jerky for those on the go; Dolci Gelati served up some cold treats – Pomegranate Honeydew and Cherry Blossom were especially welcomed; and Bub and Pop’s gave out scrumptiously juicy beef brisket on a bun. I took a seat across from a young woman whose husband was a chef with plans to open a restaurant in DC. He had sent her as his proxy.
And then it was time to get down to business. The panel consisted of Kathy Hollinger, President of the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington (RAMW); Thomas Dailey, Potomac Construction Services who has built out a number of restaurants in our area; Jeff Black, Black Restaurant Group; Peter Hapstak of HapstakDemetriou+; Russell Stillwell of Next Step Design; Conan O’Sullivan of SONA Creamery; public relations maven, Jennifer Motruk Loy and Tim Ma of Water & Wall and Maple Avenue Restaurant. Washington Post Food Writer, Tim Carman, who will moderate all the discussions, kicked off the questioning.
Here are a few pearls of wisdom heard at this session.
On choosing a space:
- Tim Ma – Try to get an existing space that has already gone through the permits applications.
- Hapstak – Some spaces don’t want to be restaurants. The costs of installing the exhausts can be very expensive.
On keeping a project on budget:
- Stillwell – It’s important to do checks as you move along. At a certain point it’s important to put your pencils down and just get it done. At the end of the day you just have to hit those numbers for your client.
On restaurant and bar regulations:
- Hollinger – It’s been crazy in the year and a half I’ve been President. Everyone is being slammed across the board. It feels volatile. Restaurants are being targeted, though I don’t feel these [city] agencies are sophisticated enough to have a strategy.
- Black – Virginia is tougher than DC. Even if we do things according to code we can get a rogue inspector that may insist on something that isn’t even in the code. You have to eat your pride to make sure your project doesn’t go off the rails.
On interior design:
- Hapstak – We are moving away from the Brooklyn hipster thing and the reclaimed wood thing.
- Loy – Our design sensibilities have changed. You can now get advanced materials that look like they’ve come off a barn.
On efficient kitchen design:
- Hapstak – Our greatest resource is Google.
- Black – One of my favorite expressions is, “I pay for every step my employees take. If they take an extra step I lose money.” Design, time and money balance with food and scale.
On new or used equipment:
- Ma – Not for refrigeration! It’s like one year and done!
On opening a new restaurant:
- Black – Restaurateurs are perpetually optimistic and eternally pessimistic. Before you open a restaurant you should go to your ANC meetings to know what your customers want. They’re all very different and have power over your liquor license. You don’t want to sign a lease that you can’t get out of if you don’t get your liquor license.
- Hollinger – I think the ANCs [Advisory Neighborhood Commission] and BIDs [Business Improvement District] are much more powerful than any of the agencies. We try to work with all of them and create and cultivate those relationships.
For tickets and information on the remaining sessions on April 22nd and May 13th visit www.DCindustree.com.
Greek Easter at Zaytinya
Zaytinya will hold their annual and ever-popular two-week festival from April 20th till Greek Orthodox Easter on May 3rd. Chef/Owner, Jose Andres, and Head Chef, Michael Costa have created a splendid new menu for the Lenten season with seasonal dishes that incorporate authentic Mediterranean ingredients.
 ThinkFoodGroup’s Head Mixologist Juan Coronado shows off his Baklava Soda Last week we sampled them along with mixologist, Juan Coronado’s specialty cocktail he calls “Mellow Yiayia” made with rye, honey-walnut syrup, lemon juice and St. Elizabeth’s Allspice Dram. Yia Yia as you may know is an affectionate term for grandmother. I’m sure even my Danish grandmother would have loved this. Coronado has also concocted a Baklava Soda, which is perfect for mixing with bourbon or rum. The fizzy mixer is made from honey, black walnut syrup, lemon juice and cinnamon.
 Lobster Avgolemono for Zaytinya’s Greek Easter festival To culminate the celebration, on Saturday, May 3rd from 11:30am to 4pm, Zaytinya will host Agora, its annual Greek outdoor market event. Agora introduces guests to unique Greek artisanal products, wines and more. The free festival includes live music, Spartan warriors, and complimentary loukamades. www.Zaytinya.com.
 Maroulosalata a housemade fresh myzithra cheese with brown butter hazelnuts and Earth N Eats greens
Jordan Wright
March 16, 2014
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts, Broadway Stars, and LocalKicks
City Tap House, The Partisan, Malmaison, Jaleo Brunch, Peach Brandy at Mount Vernon
Brunch before the Matinee
 Crystal City Jaleo On an unseasonably warm Sunday we tried out the new brunch menu at Jaleo. We chose the Crystal City location on the same block as Synetic Theater. Chef Ramón Martínez, Jaleo’s Executive Chef, has put together an appealing selection of both classic Spanish dishes and some newer creations with some incorporating Andres’ new line of Spanish foods that we wrote about last December.
 Sweet-soaked Spanish Toast with Carmelized Bananas and rum whipped cream at Jaleo I hadn’t been in the restaurant in the daytime before (Does that tell you something about my life?) and it was gorgeous. Sun streamed in through the two-story windows overlooking Crystal Drive, and all seemed right with the world.
Just writing about these fabulous dishes is causing me to delicately drool on my well-worn keyboard. Here’s what we loved.
 Two types of Pan de Cristal – with smoked salmon or Spanish sardines Pan de Cristal on crispbread served two ways – – fresh tomato and Spanish sardines in olive oil and smoked salmon with minced hard-cooked egg, goat cheese and capers. Huevos Estrellados – organic fried eggs and fried potatoes. You can add on jamón ibérico or creamy sea urchin if you like. The sea urchin won out.
 Huevos Estrellados with Sea Urchin Huevos a la ‘Angel Muro’, eggs with toasted bread ‘Angel Muro style’ with piquillo confit and acorn-fed ham – – the Spanish version of what we fondly call Toad-in-the-Hole. And Huevos a la Cubana, sautéed rice served with tomato, fried egg and Ibérico pork belly.
 Jaleo’s Spinach, Pine Nut and Raisin Salad All in the name of research, of course. But do you think we stopped there? Try the churros for dessert. They’re served with a frothy cup of hot chocolate for dunking.
 Huevos a la Angel Muro Also at all three Jaleo locations till April 13th are these special dishes created just for the Cherry Blossom Festival – – Panceta Confitada con Salsa de Cereza, pork belly confit with cherry sauce; Queso Murcia al Vino Tinto con Mermelada de Cereza y Pan Tostado, ‘the drunken goat’ with Murcia cheese, cherry marmalade with toasted bread; and the Sopa de Frutas Rojas con Helado de Queso, a wild red berry soup with Idiazábal cheese ice cream.
Malmaison – Georgetown’s Hip Hideaway
 Brunch at Malmaison When restaurateur and nightlife entrepreneur Omar Popal took the plunge and opened Malmaison last year he brought a cool Euro vibe to a part of Georgetown that had been sorely neglected for decades. In an old warehouse on a stretch of K Street tucked under the Whitehurst Freeway, Popal has created a stylish outpost –what is on weekdays a yoga retreat and juice bar + breakfast and lunch spot is by night a spot for hip urbanites to dine and dance to electronica.
 The Pastry Basket at Malmaison The space has a Philippe Starck design feel with contemporary mauve sofas, high ceilings, and jet-black chairs and tables that overlook Georgetown harbor. In the evening a separate event space turns it into a party fueled by state-of-the-art sound equipment that draws hipsters to nightly dance parties, cultural activities and fashion shows. Popal strives to cater to all his guests with a coffee bar, juice bar and breakfast, lunch and dinner service, and now Saturday and Sunday brunch.
 Omelette with red potatoes at Malmaison On earlier visits I had sampled their most delectable French pastries – especially the macarons, tortes and tarts – and I knew just where to start. You’ll want to break the fast with a basket of homemade pastries – a flaky, buttery almond croissant, a hefty slice of dense cinnamon swirl bread, blueberry muffin and a tender roll floated in on a cloud, or so it seemed. A jaunty wakeup call of a cocktail called “Suma Deez”, made with coconut-infused vodka and champagne and rimmed with cocoa powder and coconut flakes was as close as I would get to luxuriating on a tropical isle this winter.
The menu is divided up into salads, crepes, delights, eggs, and chef’s specials – and most selections are well priced, unless you are all in on lump crab cakes or a salad of Maine lobster. Pricey, but not beyond what’s expected for a menu styled like a five-star hotel’s breakfast offerings.
 Lump crab cakes at Malmaison There are plenty of choices for the granola, green juice and yogurt crowd. Try the Arugula and Wheat Berry Salad with cranberries, feta and fresh mint, or the Greek yogurt with granola, almonds, walnuts and dried fruits topped with seasonal fruit and honey – – then pair it with Popeye’s Punch, a juice drink of celery, apples, spinach, cantaloupe and lime. Later jog along the waterfront or rent a kayak at the nearby Thompson’s Boathouse. For the I-worked-my-tail-off-this-week-and-I-earned-it types or the Sunday crossword solvers like myself, there are more divinely decadent offerings. Piperade (the Basque egg dish made with onions, peppers and tomatoes), smoked salmon, steak frites (the frites fried in duck fat and served with Bearnaise), eggs Benedict, quiche, brioche French toast or sweet crepes to name a few.
Merci, Chef Gerard Pangaud for a lovely brunch!
The Partisan and Red Apron Butcher Open in Former Union Hardware Store
 At The Partisan In-house made charcuterie has become all the rage. Classes on how to cure meat, break down a side of pig, or how to make your own sausage have got everyone’s attention and/or participation. Add to that the burgeoning market for innovative craft beers, artisanal cocktails and intriguing new wines, and you’ve got The Partisan. Think about it – – putting these all together in one place and driven by the talents of Red Apron Chef and Butcher Nathan Anda, Executive Chef Ed Witt, Wine Director Brent Kroll, Beer Director Greg Engert, and Cocktail Guru Jeff Faille, is so exciting.
 Brett Kroll, Wine Director at The Partisan Anda’s Red Apron Butcher is no stranger to shoppers at the Dupont Circle and Penn Quarter farmers markets where he sold his sustainably raised and humanely treated meats and meat products for years. Others have found him in bricks-and-mortar locations at Union Market in DC and Mosaic in Merrifield.
 A trio of condiments Let’s start with the food at this new D Street location. To begin the charcuterie menu is organized by flavor profile (bright, herbal + floral, spicy hot, smoky, spiced, rich + smooth, earthy), a dinner menu organized by animal (fish, chicken, pig, cow), and then size (small, medium, large). There are vegetarian starters, so your non-meat-eating friend can still join you, as long as they don’t mind a pig’s head on your plate.
 Whole braised pig’s head The main menu eschews traditional order-by-course offerings and gets broken up by source or animal (beef, poultry, pork, and fish). Each section has dishes in a range of portion sizes that encourage sampling and exploration. There’s Bolognese, with house made pasta, guanciale and heart ragout, and lard-toasted breadcrumbs; Braised Spanish Octopus with tomato, oregano, and fingerling potatoes; 120-Day Dry Aged Beef Carpaccio; and Corned Beef Belly with braised cabbage, grated pumpernickel, and pickled mustard seeds, that can be ordered in small or medium and complemented with salads, slaws or vegetable sides.
Some items are designed to share, such as the Roasted Pig Head served with salsa verde, pickled peppers, and arugula and pig ear salad; the Rotissi-Fried Chicken, deep fried and served with honey hot sauce; and the Bollito Misto, a stew of cotechino, smoked heart, belly, pickled tongue, pork bone marrow and tenderloin with Calabrian aioli.
 Chocolate and Pistachio Crepes Pastry Chef Tiffany MacIsaac has dreamt up nostalgic favorites like Snicker’s Terrine with peanut butter cheesecake, peanut caramel and chocolate glaze; Lemon Meringue Pie, a Meyer lemon eclair, with torched Swiss meringue and graham cracker crumbles and Fried Apple Pie, a hand pie made with bacon, caramel, graham crumble, candied pecans and vanilla bean ice cream. Her fave is the Fernet Ice Cream Float with ginger beer, lime zest, Fernet Branca ice cream and ginger molasses cookies. Ours were the Red Velvet and Campari macarons.
 The Partisans Red Velvet and gold-striped Campari Macarons On the beverage side The Partisan taps the talents of Kroll, Faile and Engert. Kroll has personally selected over 400 wines to balance the encyclopedic range of meats. Twenty-five are on draft and eight wines are preserved through the Napa Technology preservation system allowing for the presentation of rare, mature wines to be served by the glass and half-glass.
Engert has compiled an impressive beer program featuring seventeen drafts and over fifty bottles or cans that highlight his signature flavor profiles. Though comprehensive, The Partisan’s beer program will focus on Sour ales (seven draft sours and seventeen bottles) and Saisons, two craft categories particularly suited to the menu. The rest of the list features some unique and rare farmhouse ales, traditional lambics, and the highly coveted hoppy brews.
The bar also benefits from the talents of Faile, one of our area’s finest spirits specialists. To complement the menu, he has created a menu of ten cocktails – – Sailin’ On, made with Overholt Rye, Cocchi Vermouth, Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, Chili Infused Averna and Chocolate Bitters; Cool Confusion with Plymouth Gin, Cocchi Barolo Chinato, Kina L’Avion D’Or; and Banned in DC with Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, Carpano Antica, Crème de Cacao, and Hellfire Bitters. Specialty spirits offered on draft include Willett Pot Still Bourbon, Michters Rye, Amaro Nonino and Bittermen’s Bäska Snaps Malort.
Don’t bring a calorie counter when you go.
Cozy City Tap House
There is something so intrinsically cozy and familiar at City Tap House. The four-month old gastropub situated close by downtown theatres, City Center, Walter Washington Convention Center and Verizon Center will make you believe it’s been sitting on this well-traveled corner of Mount Vernon Square forever. The friendly spot is designed as a laidback pub with wood plank walls, copper fixtures, candlelit tables and flat screen TVs on every wall. Industrial-style lamps float above a large bar that overlooks the dining area and an open kitchen helps define the casual atmosphere.
 Yellowfin Tuna Tartare at City Tap House The food too, is prepared in a straightforward rustic style, referred to on the website as “Elevated American Regional”. But there’s nothing casual about the beer program here. This is where it gets, as we used to say, dead dog serious. Over sixty craft beers and cask ales are sourced both locally, DC Brau’s The Citizen and the soon-to-be-tapped Victory DirtWolf from Pennsylvania for example, and include dozens from around the world. Unfiltered and unpasteurized beers are offered by using a system of rotating casks, and draft beers are available in an ever-changing rotation.
 Try a flight of four beers at City Tap House Here you’ll find Belgians, Bitters, Browns, and Barleywines sharing space with Pale Ales, Lagers, Pilsners, Bocks and Wheats, as well as a nice selection of Porters and Stouts. It’s a bit overwhelming if you’re not familiar with hundreds of local and international brews, and who is, but if you’re willing to experiment you’ll come away knowing a few more to keep in your repertoire. It’s all very easy for the novice, or the curious, with flights of beers you think you’d like to sample. Thankfully both the menu descriptions as well as the servers are highly knowledgeable about all the beers they offer and will ask about your preferences and gently guide your selections. Certainly our server, Jordan, helped us make a few good choices that paired nicely with dinner.
 Seared Sea Scallops with curried cauliflower This homey pub aims to cover all the bases with a wide array of dishes from locally sourced burgers to pizzas (the Tartuffo has roasted mushrooms, Taleggio cheese, guanciale, fried egg and black truffle, oh my!), mussels three ways and Foie Gras French toast, poached lobster rolls, Korean Short Rib Tacos and juicy ribeye steaks.
But if all you came in for were a few beers, they’ve got snacks covered too. Try the Bacon Popcorn & Candied Peanuts, or Skillet Fried Shishito Peppers.
 Sweet Corn & Crab Hushpuppies We launched our dinner with a couple of appetizers, Yellowfin Tuna Tartare, which could have used a bit more acid, and the Sweet Corn & Crab Hushpuppies. The hushpuppies, served with honey thyme butter and citrus remoulade were a novel combination I was unfamiliar with, but nonetheless a marriage made in heaven. We were tempted by Lamb Neck Gravy with herbed ricotta and a dish called Blue Crab Mac N’ Cheese that melts lump crabmeat into Fontina cheese. But we’ll just have to wait to wrap our mouths around that mouth-watering indulgence.
We opted to try Green Kale Salad, which it seems everyone and their mother is preparing these days. This version, however, was outstanding and had sweet roasted figs, pomegranate seeds, toasted pecans, shaved Grana Padano cheese and maple-pecan vinaigrette. Our waiter told us they use baby kale, which explained the mild flavor and tender greens.
We soldiered on to Lobster Roll with duck fat fries, a must try that brought back memories of Maine, and Seared Scallops nestled atop curried cauliflower, leaves of Brussel sprouts, sautéed apples and crisped up pancetta with a piquillo pepper coulis and herb persillade. Perfection on a plate!
 A trio of Dolcezza gelati Could we go on? We did. Coaxed into dessert we surrendered to a trio of Dolcezza gelati and a scrumptious Apple Cherry Cobbler that showed personality with a topping with brown butter streusel and salted caramel gelato.
 City Tap House’s Skillet Apple Pie There are so many unusual and appealing dishes to try that we stalwart dining soldiers will certainly return to fight, or partake, another day.
George Washington’s Peach Brandy Debuts This Month
 Mount Vernon Distillery – Peach Brandy More than 200 years after George Washington’s Distillery stopped producing brandy, his distillery at Mount Vernon has created 400 bottles of George Washington’s Peach Brandy. Created at the reconstructed site, the inaugural batch will be available for sale at George Washington’s Distillery & Gristmill April 1. Each precious 375ml bottle will retail for $150.00.
To create this historic product, seven leading craft distillers from across the United States gathered at the historic distillery on October 6, 2010. Working under their direction, Mount Vernon produced this brandy based on traditional 18th-century methods, that is without any recipes or instruction manuals to guide them. The product was double-distilled in copper pot stills heated by wood fires, and was aged for two years in toasted oak barrels.
These companies helped in the process – – Templeton Rye Spirits of Iowa, Philadelphia Distilling of Pennsylvania, A. Smith Bowman Distillery and Catoctin Creek Distilling Company of Virginia, Huber Starlight Distillery of Indiana, and Finger Lakes Distilling Company and Hillrock Distillery, both of New York.
Washington oversaw the production of only 60 gallons of the popular spirit each year, compared to the 11,000 gallons of rye whiskey that he bottled and sold during the same time period. Most of his brandy never made it to market. Instead, he poured it for the many guests that flocked to his Mount Vernon estate.
For further information about the purchase of this very limited product visit MountVernon.org/PeachBrandy.
An Elegant Seasonal Dinner at Washington’s Mount Vernon Estate is Offered in May
Next month Mount Vernon invites guests to a seasonal table with a dash of history during a new culinary event, Farm to Table. On Friday, May 9, from 6:30 till 10pm, the evening will commence with a reception in Washington’s upper garden and greenhouse and feature specialty cocktails and hors d’oeuvres. After the reception, guests will learn how food was grown, stored, and prepared for the Washington family through a private tour of Mount Vernon’s lower garden and Mansion. After the tour a spectacular four-course dinner at the Mount Vernon Inn will feature some of the products cultivated and produced on the estate.
The four-course menu sounds divine and begins with an amuse bouche of Cod Brandade Fritters with Horseradish Mousseline. It proceeds with a first course of Fried Asparagus Salad, with Gorgonzola Cheese, Pancetta, Heirloom Lettuce, and Balsamic Vinaigrette, a second of Seared Maryland Wild Rockfish in Fennel Saffron Broth with Garden Leeks and Baby New Potatoes, a meat course of Beef Tenderloin Wellington topped with Béarnaise Sauce and ends with Rhubarb, Strawberry & Lemon Curd Tart. Wine pairings are included with the dinner. For more information visit www.MountVernon.org.
Photo credit – Jordan Wright
Jordan Wright
March 13, 2014
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts, Broadway Stars, and LocalKicks
 “Farm Daisy” one of Founding Farmers Group’s specialty cocktails made with their new gin from Copper Fox Distillery In celebrating the country’s leaders in the promotion of healthful and sustainable foods the United States Healthful Food Council chose a lovely spring evening at Whittemore House lent an air of promise to the USHFC’s first gala. Guests were treated to cocktails from Founding Farmers mixologist, Jon Arroyo, and healthy whole fruit and vegetable juices from Jrink Juicery. After all the DC-based organization is all about healthy food and, by all appearances, guests were too. During the reception we tried out the Food Database app from the non-profit Environmental Working Group. They have identified over 80,000 products and 1,500 brands scannable with your smart phone that will tell you if they contain any additives, preservatives, chemicals or contaminants. We tried it out on a few products (one was even labeled “organic”!) only to find it contained pesticides. It’s still in test mode but sign up at www.EWG.org/FoodDatabase to be the first to use it.
 JRinkjuicery offers fresh-pressed juices Whittemore House is of course the Women’s Democratic Club and the beautiful old manse is filled to the rafters with books and political memorabilia and fine photographs and treasured documents. On this night the rooms held two bars, one for cocktails – the other for wines provided by Barboursville – and a third held a long table laid out with Treeline Cheese, a delicious herb-flavored vegan cheese made from cashews and bowls of crunchy kale chips from Alive & Radiant. Chef, restaurateur, author and philanthropist, Sam Talbot of Bravo’s Top Chef, was flown in from his home in North Carolina to prepare the food.
 Treeline’s Cashew Cheese Miniature crab cakes with ginger aioli, lamb picadillo in phyllo, anise and black pepper beef tenderloin with pickled green banana vinaigrette and beef tartare with Balinese long pepper and vanilla vinaigrette were among the tasty tidbits passed around before guests took their seats and a glorious dinner was served.
Here’s what Chef Talbot created to dazzle the palate. Braised Chicken in adobo with ginger and carrot vinaigrette, Seared Dogfish – a delicate and sustainable white fish flown in from North Carolina – with celery root, blood orange and nduja vinaigrette; Pan-roasted Mushrooms with chili and pickled garlic; Parsnips La Plancha; Roasted Turnips with braised sweet potato leaves and coconut broth; Roasted Kohlrabi with pea greens, rosemary and black sesame. Vegans and carnivores alike had a lot to celebrate.
Well represented were chefs noted for their dedication to local and sustainable food products. Nashville chefs Jeremy Barlow, “Chefs can change the world,” he declared, and Maneet Chauhan, known for her appearances on Iron Chef and as a judge on Chopped. Two-time James Beard Award winner and leader in the sustainable food movement, Michel Nischan; Mike Selig, Director of Food and Beverage at the Clinton Presidential Center; and renowned local chefs Ris Lacoste of Ris, and organic food pioneer and sustainability advocate, Nora Poullion of Restaurant Nora, who was instrumental in establishing the country’s organic certification standards for restaurants. Celebrity dietician and author Ashley Koff, RD was one of the Co-Chairs.
USHFC President Lawrence Williams who handed out the REAL Food Innovator Awards (REAL is the acronym for Responsible Epicurean and Agricultural Leadership) explained, “Nothing within our control affects our health more than the food we eat, yet serving healthful foods is generally perceived as not being good for business. Each of these individuals is helping to change that equation.”
 REAL Foods Awards night guests at the reception These are the winners:
Beverage – Seth Goldman, Co-Founder and President of Honest Tea whose motto is “Rethink what you drink”; Child Nutrition – Kristin Richmond and Kirsten Tobey, Founders of Revolution Foods; Food Access – Robert Egger, Founder of DC Central Kitchen and L. A. Kitchen; Nutrition Awareness and Innovator of the Year – James Beard Foundation Award winning author and Professor of Nutrition, Food Studies and Public Health at New York University, Dr. Marion Nestle; Non-Profit Advocacy – Ken Cook, President and Co-Founder of the Environmental Working Group; Food Marketing – Steve Ells and Monty Moran Co-CEOs of Chipotle; Food Production – Stephen McDonnell, CEO of Applegate Farms; Government Official – Former New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg.
Upon receiving his award Goldman cautioned the crowd, “If we don’t change the direction we’re headed, we won’t know where we’re going”. He accompanied the warning with an alarming statistic. “The United States is the wealthiest nation in the world and has more advanced knowledge of science and medicine and any other civilization in history and yet we rank 40th on the United Nations’ average life expectancy rating.” But of course he was preaching to the choir.
Revolution Foods founder, Kirsten Tobey, let us know, “We serve one million meals per week throughout the country.” And Dr. Nestle accepted her award with the sage statement, “The most profitable foods are not the things people should be eating the most of.” Adding, “My goal is to train everyone I can to take action.”
 Fortessa Tableware Solutions group is definitely ready to party Because the USHFC partnered with the James Beard Foundation on this event, JBF trustee, Eric Kessler, was also in attendance. Platinum sponsor Fortessa Tableware Solutions shared the spotlight with other sponsors – Plant Based Solutions, The Farm (Founding Farmers Restaurant Group), Congressional Seafood, Match, TCHO Chocolate, Organic Valley, Barboursville Vineyards, JRINKjuicery, Emmy’s Organics, Alive & Radiant Foods, Buyer’s Best Friend, Treeline Cheese, Westin Georgetown, Frontier Natural Products Co-op, Future of Food Technology, Sourcery, Spartan Races, Google, Discovery Communications, Mountain Valley Spring Water and Elizabeth’s Gone Raw who provided the heavenly artisanal chocolates and dessert.
Fortessa’s Executive Vice President of Commercial Foodservice, Matthew Broad, told Whisk and Quill, “We respect Lawrence [Williams] and what the foundation is all about. He is promoting healthy lifestyle, sustainable farming, local businesses, non-governmental regulation and what people try to assertively attain. We like to associate ourselves with USHFC because we share their goals and values.”
Photo credit Jordan Wright
Reference: The United States Healthful Food Council
Jordan Wright
March 10, 2014
Special to The Alexandria Times
 Anna Fagan (Catherine) and Chuck Leonard (Robert) –
Photos by Matt Liptak Catherine (Anna Fagan) lives with her professor father in an unsettling world of mental illness somewhat reminiscent of the film A Beautiful Mind. Robert (Chuck Leonard), a brilliant mathematician whose elegant formulas and research on prime numbers have dazzled his peers, believes aliens are sending him messages through the Dewey Decimal System. He suffers from major depression and psychotic episodes that Catherine fears could be genetic. “Crazy people don’t ask each other if they’re nuts,” he explains when she holes up in her room reading fashion magazines.
When Hal (Josh Goldman), a former student of Robert’s, “He’s on the infinite program,” Robert jokes, comes to their home in hopes of discovering publishable formulas, Catherine, a math whiz in her own right, gets suspicious that Hal might be stealing the material to self-attribute and we watch as she spirals into a depression of her own. But the pair needs each other. Their discussion of Sophie Germaine, an actual 18th C mathematician who hid her genius by writing under a man’s name, portends things to come. Could Catherine be as brilliant as her famous father?
 Anna Fagan (Catherine) and Elizabeth Keith (Claire) – Photo Matt Liptak When her sister Claire (Elizabeth Keith) shows up at the family’s suburban house to make funeral arrangements, she insists her Catherine cannot handle life alone and determines to take her sister back with her to New York City to seek psychiatric help.
Proof, set in the 1990’s, switches back and forth over a four-year period and covers Catherine’s close relationship with her father, her testy but compliant relationship with Claire, and her curious partnership with Hal. The tidy four-person cast handles complex emotional turns with ease in this Pulitzer and Tony Award-winning play written by David Auburn.
 Anna Fagan (Catherine) and Josh Goldman (Hal) – Photo Matt Liptak In a deeply engrossing script tinged with wry comedy, the play explores mental illness as related to genius and presents a storyline as complicated as it is uplifting. Susan Devine, who consulted with the National Alliance on Mental Illness and Flint Hill School teacher William VanLear to gain insight on the topic, directs an impressive cast that has both the strength and confidence the story demands. Leonard, who himself is a director and reminds this reviewer of John Cleese, captures the humor and subtleties of his role, while Fagan demonstrates her total immersion in a tricky role that swings from upbeat to somber at the drop of a hat. Goldman, who has appeared in several LTA productions, proves he has an impressive range – – while Keith, another LTA alum, gives a shining performance as the self-centered sister.
Through March 29th at The Little Theatre of Alexandria, 600 Wolfe Street. For tickets and information call the box office at 703 683-0496 or visit www.thelittletheatre.com
Jordan Wright
March 6, 2014
Special to The Alexandria Times
 Jose Andres Kicks Off Oyamel’s Tequila & Mescal Festival The Greatest Mexican Fiesta in DC
James Beard Award-winning Chef José Andrés and his partner Rob Wilder are at it again with the seventh annual Oyamel Cocina Mexicana’s Tequila & Mezcal Festival celebrating the heritage of these unique Mexican spirits. Beginning March 10th and continuing through March 23rd, Chef Colin King will highlight the flavors of Oaxaca and Jalisco, Mexico with a fabulous special menu and new tequila and mezcal cocktails. It all gets underway with a kickoff party on Monday, March 10th from 6 to 9pm along with live Latin music from Montuno. Food stations set up around the entire restaurant will pay tribute to Mexico’s exciting street food culture serving guacamole with comal-fired tortillas, whole baby pig cochinita tacos, street-style ceviches, goat leg barbacoa, esquites and comal-fried quesadillas. All to the strains of live Latin music from the band Montuno. Tickets for this event are $60.00.
 Cocktail Rosa de Oaxaca and Agave en Lena – Photo credit Greg Powers agava on lena
Cool cocktails created especially for the two-week fiesta include the signature Oyamel Margarita and an assortment of tequila and mezcal specialty cocktails – – the Naranja Dulce, Limón Partido, made with Reposado tequila, chamomile, orange blossom honey and roasted lemon; the El Jarocho, with Añejo tequila, house-made ancho chile pepper liquor and Cocci Americano Rosa; the Rosa de Oaxaca, made with Mezcal, hibiscus, raspberry and lemon, and the Agave en Leña, with Mezcal, Benedictine, agave nectar and house-made Oyabitters.
 Cocktail Miramir and El Jarochoc – Photo credit Greg Powers For the tastings and Q&A events there are samples from Del Maguey Mezcal with founder Ron Cooper; Siembra Azul Tequila with founder David Suro: and more from Maestro Dobel Diamone Tequila, Pierde de Almas Mezcal and Tequila Ocho. To learn more about the two-week festival visit oyamel.ticketleap.com/tequila-mezcal-festival.
Complimentary tequila & mezcal tastings will be held from 4pm – 6pm on March 11th -13th and March 17th – 20th. After the each tasting event the restaurant will host an intimate dinner featuring Ostiones con Salsa Piquín, oysters on the half shell, topped with salsa piquín, onion and cilantro; Ceviche Estilo Culiacán, marinated bass with Serrano, lime, onion, cilantro, tomatillos and house-made hot sauce; Ceviche de Chamoy, sliced Hawaiian Ono dusted with chile piquín, with mango and chile mulatos, chamoy, peanuts, cucumber, onion, lime and cilantro. Other highlights include Encurtidos, a variety of pickled winter vegetables with tomatillo, queso cotija and chile piquín; Cueritos, pork skin and chicharrons dressed with lettuce, lime, cilantro and salsa Cascabel; Veal Breast Birria, a braised veal breast with refried Rebosero beans, salsa guajillo, lettuce and radish, as well as Jalapeño Escabeche Relleno con Carne Seca, pickled jalapeños stuffed with dried beef and topped with chopped tomatillos.
Just think — by Cinco de Mayo you should be able to dazzle your peeps with your exceptional knowledge of all things to eat and drink Mexican!
Let the World Be Your Oyster
 Chef Cory Bahr of Cotton Restaurant Those were the words on the Gulf Oyster Industry Council’s swank invitation for a party at Acadiana where oyster shuckers, chefs (Chopped winner Cory Bahr among them), iconic restaurateurs and industry pros came together with the East Shellfish Grower’s Association to celebrate the coveted mollusk and ready the troops for Mardi Gras. The best of the bivalve was served to over a hundred guests including Senator Mary Landrieu, author and political strategist Donna Brazile, and WUSA9’s Andrea Roane.
On the raw side were Point aux Pins from Bayou La Batre, Alabama and Karako Bay rock oysters from St. Bernard, LA served up alongside local oysters from Rappahannock Oyster Co. and a unique oyster from Cape May, New Jersey whose meat was pearly white. Side tables held oyster condiments from mignonette and red cocktail sauce (heaven forbid!) to tartar sauce for the fried oysters.
 Randol’s Serves Up Oyster Rockefeller Soup Using Bay Courant oysters from Lafourche, Louisiana Randol’s of Lafayette, Louisiana served up their lusciously rich Oyster Rockefeller Soup; Cory Bahr of Cotton in Monroe, LA created Whipped Parmesan Cheese Gulf Oysters with sea beans, radish and caviar; Ruffino’s famed Baton Rouge Chef and Cookbook Author Peter Sclafani made Open-faced Oyster Ravioli; Drago’s of Metairie, LA Head Chef Tommy Cvtanovich made their signature Oyster Voisin, and all while servers passed around the best crab cakes ever from Acadiana’s Executive Chef Jeff Tunks. I even ran into transplanted native son David Guas of Bayou Bakery who gave me a few tips on making muffulettas for an upcoming Mardi Gras party.
 Chefs Peter Sciafani, Katie Gross and Gino Sciafani from Ruffino’s While shuckers were as busy as alligators in a chicken house, P&J Oyster Company President Al Sunseri talked with Whisk and Quill about the merroir of oysters. “Each Atlantic and East Coast oyster comes from the same species, Crassotrea virginica, yet oysters from different waters don’t taste alike,” he explained. “There’s a big difference in salinity and texture from inlet to cove and bay to bayou in Louisiana.” Sunseri should know. His family business has been operating in New Orleans’ French Quarter since 1876.
Before we left Chef Randol graciously gave us permission to print his restaurant’s recipe for their fabulous Oyster Rockefeller Soup. “Why not! You’re far enough away,” he assured us.
 Oyster Rockefeller Soup RANDOL’S OYSTER ROCKERFELLER SOUP
- 4 tablespoons of butter
- ½ a diced onion
- ½ a green bell pepper
- 1 rib of diced celery
- 3 tablespoons of all-purpose flour
- 1 cup chicken or vegetable stock
- 1 pint of heavy whipping cream
- ½ pint of fresh Louisiana oysters w/ juice
- 1 teaspoon of ground red pepper
- ¼ teaspoon each of white pepper, dried basil, dried thyme
- 8 ounces of chopped frozen spinach (drained)
- ½ ounce Pernod
- kosher salt to taste
Melt butter in a 4-quart saucepan. Add onions, bell pepper and celery and sweat until translucent, being careful not to brown. Stir in the flour and cook until dissolved. Add chicken stock, red pepper, white pepper, basil and thyme and reduce by one third. Add in the heavy cream and chopped spinach and reduce by half. Add the oysters and their juice and simmer for 5 minutes. Finish with Pernod and season to taste with kosher salt. Serve in a toasted bread bowl. Serves 4-6.
Photo credit Jordan Wright
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