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Special to the Georgetowner and Downtowner
Jordan Wright
October 2010
Tapas Menu Introduced at Taberna
 Cheese platter with honeycomb at Taberna Del Alaberdero - photo by Jordan Wright Taberna del Alaberdero is shedding its stuffy image as an Old World Spanish restaurant and appealing to a younger crowd with the addition of an extensive tapas menu and a Sunday brunch that features a different region of Spain each month. November explores the foods of the Northern sea coast of Cantabria, a region known for its seafood.
 White Sangria at Taberna Del Alaberdero - photo by Jordan Wright New chef, Javier Romero, comes to Washington by way of several Michelin-starred restaurants and brings with him his success as the Numero Uno chef in Madrid in 2005, topped only by securing fourth place in 2006 for all of Spain. He employs his classical training to create tapas, infusing bold flavors in tiny bites.
I particularly liked his Arroz Cremoso de Rabo de Toro y Judiones (braised oxtail and fava beans) with its slow-cooked meat and creamy beans served over rice and Brick de Morcilla con Manzana y Parmesano, which is anything but brick-like and features blood sausage cradled in a pastry crisp, and served with apple slices and parmesan cheese. Typical tapas like Gambas al Ajillo (shrimp with garlic) and the traditional potato and egg omelet are well executed and there are over a dozen other tasty morsels to nibble on before polishing it all off with Spanish cheeses served with an aromatic honey still in its comb.
Though summer has past, make sure to try either the white or red sangria. It is never out of season for sneaking luscious fresh fruit into your meal even if it is saturated with wine. These are the best sangrias in town.
The Jockey Club Gets a New Chef – Again
 Steak Tartare with Quail Egg at The Jockey Club - photo by Jordan Wright Speaking of new chefs in town The Jockey Club at The Fairfax at Embassy Row has snagged Ralf Hofmann, with his classic American style and light approach to fish and vegetables. His signature dishes like Lobster “Bratwurst” and Root Vegetable Gnocchi continue to draw the posh and political as evidenced by the appearance of Hilary Clinton on the evening I dined there. I am told she ordered her favorite, Dover Sole Lemon Meuniére. I went for the Steak Tartare, I often do, and this version was spot on.
The hotel will host the 2011 Capital Wine Festival on January 20th with a very affordable weekly dinner series limited to only 60 guests. It will pair Chef Hofmann’s cuisine with wines from around the world.
Rivers at the Watergate Gives Foggy Bottom a New Power Dining Spot
The darling of the legendary Prime Rib, Billy Carter, has moved on to open Rivers at the Watergate, where he is the proprietor. I don’t usually follow the vicissitudes of restaurant managers except that so many of us know and love Billy from his 34 years at the Prime Rib that it was a stunner when he announced his move to open this new venture featuring Contemporary American Cuisine with a twist – Asian and Southern thrown in for good measure.
“I was surprised at the changing and sophisticated palates of our clientele,” Carter told me. “Dishes we put on the menu, like Whole Rockfish with ginger black bean sauce and rice vermicelli stir-fry, and Ginger Steamed Cod with sesame rice balls, were things that Mike and I liked and that have really taken off.” Mike is Mike Smithson, former chef at The Prime Rib in Philadelphia, who also did stints at Morton’s and Ruth Chris. Yes, he knows beef, and yes, they have fabulous steaks and zinfandel-braised short ribs too.
It’s not the same K Street crowd that Carter has welcomed in the past, though many of the swank regulars have caught on to the new location. Now you might find the cast of “Hair” popping in after the show from nearby Kennedy Center, along with prima ballerina Suzanne Farrell, and uber-composer Marvin Hamlisch, soon to perform with the National Symphony Orchestra, who was taking lunch between rehearsals as we spoke. Note to Marvin: There is a piano at the bar just itching for a little ragtime. Text me!
The restaurant’s name celebrates the rivers of the world and plans are to feature one river each season to reflect that cuisine. Italy looks to be the first.
Arena Stage Hits the Heights
 E. Faye Butler at Arena Stage's Opening Day - photo by Jordan Wright On Saturday we witnessed the opening of the new glittering, glimmering, glass-walled Arena Stage where three main stages will seat 1400 audience members.
Former Artistic Director, Doug Wager, who came to the struggling theatre in 1974 recounted founder Zelda Fichandler’s words, “”Maybe you can’t pass the torch,” she once told him. “Maybe you just pass the fire.”
“We’ve raised the roof and what a home it is!” heralded current Artistic Director Molly Smith, who noted the “Zen-like aura about the place.”
 Arena Stage - Photo by Jordan Wright Performers and playwrights from the theatre’s upcoming calendar were showcased throughout the venue. We saw alumni artist, E. Faye Butler, who is appearing in Rodgers and Hammerstein’s “Oklahoma” till December 26th and former Tony award-nominee, Brad Oscar. The Manzari Brothers, who I interviewed earlier in the year when they were blowing audiences out of their seats with their tapping talents in “Sophisticated Ladies”, and the Voices of Now, Arena Stages’ creative DC youth group were only a few of the full day’s indoor/outdoor performances.
 Jose Andres oversees his operation at Arena Stage - photo by Jordan Wright There is so much to look forward to in this shining new venue…a vivid contribution to the revitalization of its Southwest neighborhood, world-class theatre, and José Andrés brilliant cuisine where many of the dishes are influenced by the season’s productions. Look for an inspired and eclectic menu served in a sleek café, that make it a pre-theatre dinner destination. Sipping champagne on the outdoor terrace overlooking the Potomac is optional but recommended.
Cuba Libre Opens DC Outpost
 Organic Salmon Ceviche with orange salad, orange-passion fruit sauce and salmon caviar - photo by Jordan Wright At long last and after many false starts Cuba Libre opened its puertas in Penn Quarter and I found both good and bad to report. First the expected: It is a fun, super-lively, noisy hot spot. Second the management team has gotten it right with informed servers, gracious door host and fast and efficient service. The freshly made mojitos are crazy fabulous, especially the pineapple, but not forgetting the beet and basil rendition. Dear Lord, there are 15 to choose from!
Over 75 premium and flavored rums from Brazil, Haiti, Nicaragua, and Tortola will keep you experimenting for a good long while. The restaurant itself has six of their own branded rums, anejos aged up to 21 years, and made in Guayana.
 Lump Crab Ceviche with Smoked Cheddar Cheese, tomatillos and candied peanut salsa from Cuba Libre - photo by Jordan Wright Ceviches are memorable especially the scallop with blackened tomatillo-truffle sauce and goat cheese confetti. I opted for the flight of five, great for sharing.
Now for the disappointing part. The Nuevo Cubano cuisine didn’t always match the mouth-watering dishes described on the menu. Arepas are better eaten off local street trucks, ditto for the tostones. Somewhere along the line the baby octopus had the life taken out of it by overcooking and “whole roasted fillet of Australian sea bass” was a meager half inch by four inch slice and way overcooked. My charming server steered us away from the Gaucho platter, which I was eager to try, and put us on to the pork, which was dull and tough. Still I’ll go back to see if they make a good Cuban sandwich and to sample the four varieties of empanadas.
Stick to the bebidas and piqueos . Calle Ocho and South Beach still beckon.
Special to the Georgetowner and Downtowner
Jordan Wright
October 2010
On a leisurely two-hour drive from Washington DC through Piedmont wine country, past farms and orchards, we stopped for lunch in the one-light historic town of Madison at Susie’s Madison Inn. This cheery and charming restaurant with country French decor, served us a delicious lunch of wild mushroom soup, mountain trout, calves liver and bacon, and a mozzarella salad with heirloom tomatoes from nearby Shady Grove Gardens.
Owner Susie Reilly is a former Georgetown grad who has augmented her cuisine with local chef, Cheryl Goldsborough’s, adorable cupcakes, hummingbird cake and rum-infused Jamaican coconut cake sold from glass cases in the restaurant’s front bar area. Expect to find wines from nearby Sweely Estate Winery and Barboursville Vineyards to accompany your meal, which we topped off with their signature bread pudding and mixed berries, before we headed down the road to our destination.
 The Boar's Head Inn - Charlottesville, VA If like myself you haven’t visited the Boar’s Head Inn in Charlottesville in a dog’s age you will be stunned to see its transformation from an aging resort in the late ‘80’s to a luxury property. Shortly after my last visit the University of Virginia took over ownership of the resort establishing it as a foundation, and recently poured in over 14 million dollars in the past five years in extensive renovations and redecoration with the addition of the state-of-the-art sports center, conference center and spa.
The inn, which takes its name from Elizabethan England when it was a symbol of hospitality, is situated on 573 acres of natural beauty. A winding driveway takes you around the grounds past rolling lawns before delivering you to the porte-cochere and into the lobby and public rooms which are exquisitely furnished in English antiques. Our room, like others in this 170-room inn, had a balcony overlooking a serene lake graced by a pair of resident swans. I strolled down to the water’s edge before dinner and sat on a swing beside a stand of native cardinal flowers, where I watched the sun’s sparkling reflection off the lake before it faded behind the Blue Ridge Mountains.
 The Old Mill Room - photo by Jordan Wright We met up in the cozy Tavern for drinks before our dinner in The Old Mill Restaurant. The warm and elegant dining room was originally reconstructed from an old water gristmill built on the Hardware River in 1834. Dismantled and transferred from Albemarle County to its present site, it was reassembled using fieldstones from the foundation for the Tavern’s fireplace and the archway in the Ordinary Room where guests sip cocktails and take tea in the afternoons. Original pine planks from the mill are incorporated throughout the inn and the old millstones are imbedded in the inn’s courtyard. It is an enchanting setting for a restaurant that still maintains its 23-year running AAA Four-Diamond distinction.
 Dover sole Stuffed with Lobster and served with Pea Risotto and Bok Choy - photo by Jordan Wright In a room romantically lit by wrought iron chandeliers, a toasty fireplace and candlelight we took our dinner. Executive Chef Bill Justus, suggested Vanilla Bean-infused Duck Breast and Charred Sea Scallops on Polenta with Virginia ham and grilled corn succotash. For our second courses we enjoyed Dover Sole stuffed with Lobster and Bok Choy and served with pea risotto and a very large bone-in Veal Chop finished with brandy cream. The elegant service (I particularly appreciated the offer to decant our bottle of 2007 Saintsbury Carneros Pinot Noir) and first-rate cuisine was exquisite. We gilded the lily with desserts of Cashew Banana Caramel with cinnamon ice cream and Chocolate Pave with a chocolate tuile. How perfectly they paired with our flutes of Blanc de Blanc from nearby Kluge Estate Winery!
 Cashew Banana Caramel in Phyllo with Cinnamon Ice Cream - photo by Jordan Wright Dawn broke on our first full day to a myriad of options. The Charlottesville area alone has 23 of some of the finest vineyards in Virginia and is part of the Monticello Wine Trail. We could visit the wineries, or spend a leisurely day antiquing in town, drop in at James Monroe’s historic manor Ashlawn-Highland, or tour James Madison’s recently restored Montpelier. We could always dodge the heat and hoist a tankard at the 1784 Mitchie Tavern or travel through time at Thomas Jefferson’s magnificent home, Monticello. It is worth noting that Monticello and the University of Virginia campus, are architectural treasures included on the UNESCO World Heritage List and worth a visit.
My husband pressed for a tour of his alma mater and we were delighted to discover the streets filled with hundreds of the cutest, preppiest, fresh-faced students laughing and chatting excitedly on their way to the university’s auditorium for UVA’s “Orientation Day”. We trotted off to the downtown pedestrian mall with its over 120 shops and more than 30 restaurants and had a bite at Orzo, a lively Mediterranean bistro filled with an international clientele of exchange students.
Back at the hotel there was bicycling, swimming or lounging beside one of three pools, fly fishing clinics, tennis (12 indoor and 14 outdoor world-class courts), golf on the 300-acre Birdwood championship course, a rock climbing wall to scamper up, or perhaps a trip to the sports center to join one of over 50 weekly classes from Power Yoga and Zumba to High Intensity Training sessions or Boot Camp with a personal trainer. All offered to guests of the hotel during their stay.
 The Boar's Head Christmas - Gingerbread house After a lavish breakfast featuring a smoked salmon bar, eggs of every variety, Virginia ham and sausage and an array of baked goods (we loved the pecan cinnamon rolls) I took the opportunity to relax and rejuvenate at the Spa. Housed in a darling cottage the serene full-service spa offers nine different types of therapeutic massages from the traditional to Thai Bodywork and the Raindrop Treatment that uses key essential oils dropped like rain along the spine and massaged into the tissue. There are also a number of detoxifying wraps. Try the Mud Wrap or Body Glow using sea salt, herbs and essential oils or just enjoy the beauty services. They use Astara, Dermalogica and Get Fresh products and my facial was one of the best I have ever had anywhere.
If you’re planning now for the holidays the inn has a great array of family activities and gently priced packages. Horse and carriage rides, breakfast with Santa, Christmas dinner in the Old Mill and gingerbread workshops. Go online to get the latest details and enjoy making your own beautiful memories in Virginia’s beautiful Piedmont.
Special to Washington Examiner
Jordan Wright
October 2010
 Book cover (Joan Nathan) It was what I call a pajama day. A damp, grey, stay-at-home kind of day. Leaves the color of wet tobacco clung to car windows like parking decals and the fruits of the hackberry and hawthorn trees stained the sidewalks with their juice. The chill of autumn came early, bringing with it a light drizzle after a long night of steady rain. But this was not a day for burrowing beneath the duvet. A visit to the Washington, DC home of Joan Nathan, the great lady of Jewish cookery, was on the calendar and nary a dark cloud would put the squeeze on a much-anticipated luncheon date with the acclaimed author. I was looking forward to discussing her soon to be released eleventh book, “Quiches, Kugels and Couscous – My Search for Jewish Cooking in France” (Knopf).
 The kitchen at the Washington DC home of Joan Nathan - photo by Jordan Wright I entered her well-appointed kitchen, chock-a-block with family mementoes, children’s drawings, books and artifacts, and immediately was smitten with the aroma of her anise-scented oatmeal bread wafting across the room. I ask you, no, I dare you to tell me that there is anything more welcoming than the scent of freshly baked bread.
At a long wooden table before my gourmand-weary eyes rested a bowl of Nathan’s homemade chicken soup with two golden orbs afloat. Redolent of carrots, ginger and nutmeg and bathing in a clear broth with chunks of light and dark chicken meat, the matzo balls glistened irresistibly in the wide white bowl. Curiously each one seemed formed by a different hand, the result I assumed of two separate test kitchen efforts.
 Chicken soup with two types of matzo balls - photo by Jordan Wright One wore the sylvan appearance of a white truffle, all nubbly and crevassed, while the other was smooth and evenly formed – the color of an Asian pear. The matzo balls were the handiwork of the renowned regionalist food writer and they were simple and glorious at the same time. To accompany the soup, a large round loaf of oatmeal bread studded with dates and walnuts was pulled from the oven. “Thump it for doneness.” Nathan cautioned her assistant, and the hollow sound reached into the adjoining dining room. The hot crusty loaf was served with Nathan’s favorite Plugra butter and a green salad with slices of red beets from her local farmers market.
Joan Nathan has been the sole voice of Jewish cooking in America since 1975 when her first book, The Flavor of Jerusalem, was published while she was living and working in Israel for Mayor Teddy Kollek. After she moved to New York City she was one of the founders of the ethnically diverse Ninth Avenue International Food Festival when she worked first under Mayor John Lindsay and later Mayor Abe Beame. Here in Washington her decades-long commitment to local food kitchens like Martha’s Table and DC Kitchen, where she is known for her fundraising “Sunday Night Suppers”, a collaborative dining series with Alice Waters, Tom Colicchio and José Andrés, has endeared her to those in the slow food community.
Many know Nathan from her nationally syndicated PBS show, Jewish Cooking in America with Joan Nathan and as a regular contributor to The New York Times Food Arts Magazine. A two-time James Beard award winner, she is scholar, memoirist and cook in this latest venture.
“France is the link from Israel to America, as far as Jewish food, because Ancient Israel is where all of our foods started before going to Europe and then coming to America. Jewish cooking in France is closer to the original cuisine,” she explained.
 Anise-scented oatmeal bread with dates and walnuts - photo by Jordan Wright She prepares the reader by providing centuries-old historical context for the creation, preservation and tradition of Jewish cookery in France. To understand how certain foods and methods of preparation evolved throughout France, Nathan shows it is necessary to know how the Jewish culture both influenced and was influenced by French cuisine. Not only did they trade in beans, sugar, barley, garlic and other precious foodstuffs, but they brought exotic spices, the art of making fois gras, carp served with sauce verte, and even introduced hot chocolate to the French culinary experience.
Thankfully the book offers far more than the catchy three-dish alliterative title suggests to the reader. Among the more than 200 recipes that have their origin in Spain, Morocco, Portugal, Germany and the Mediterranean, you’ll find such gems as Paul Bocuse’s Black Truffle Soup Elysée, tweaked by Nathan’s kosher re-interpretation; Baba au Rhum from the tiny 16-seat restaurant, Les Arômes outside of Marseilles; and a recipe for a hearty Alsatian Choucroute from a doctor in Strasbourg.
Nathan’s approach to the recipes is very forgiving, allowing the cook to substitute ingredients. “It depends on what’s in the fridge,” she offers. “I think the important thing about cooking is that it should be quick but not processed.” In her mission to find and preserve recipes throughout France, she fills the book with firsthand stories from farmers, shopkeepers, home cooks, professional cooks and Holocaust survivors. This is the sort of treasured cookbook writing that will inspire cooks to experience Jewish food and its culture. The book itself took nearly 4 ½ years of travel, research and recipe testing to deliver to her distinguished culinary and literary editor, Judith Jones, who was also editor to the late Julia Childs.
 Lunch at Joan Nathan's among the bookplates - photo by Jordan Wright As Nathan hand signed 400 bookplates for an upcoming book tour, we ate and spoke of food, family, religion and politics and the cities in which we have lived, traveled, worked and cooked. And as the day went on we nibbled on a large wedge of Comté accompanied by apples, plums and organic maple honey caramels from Sugar Revolution.
Here is her tasty recipe for Moroccan chicken from this marvelous new book.
 Moroccan Chicken with Olives and Preserved Lemons - photo credit Katie Stoops from the cookbook Moroccan Chicken with
Olives and Preserved Lemons
When Celine Bénitah cooks this dish, she blanches the olives for a minute to get rid of the bitterness, a step that I never bother with. If you keep the pits in, just warn your guests in order to avoid any broken teeth! Céline also uses the marvelous Moroccan spice mixture ras el hanout, which includes, among thirty other spices, cinnamon, cumin, cardamom, cloves, and paprika. You can find it at Middle Eastern markets or through the Internet, or you can use equal amounts of the above spices or others that
you like. To make my life easier, I assemble the spice rub the day before and marinate the chicken overnight. The next day, before my guests arrive, I fry the chicken and simmer it.
4 large cloves garlic, mashed
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 to 2 tablespoons ras el hanout
1 bunch of fresh cilantro, chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil
One 3½- to- 4- pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 cup black Moroccan dry-cured olives, pitted
Diced rind of 2 preserved lemons
Mix the mashed garlic with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste, the turmeric, the ras el hanout, half the cilantro, and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Rub the surface of the chicken pieces with this spice mixture, put them in a dish, and marinate in the refrigerator, covered, overnight. The next day, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large pan. Sauté the spice- rubbed chicken until golden brown on each side. Stir the cornstarch into 1 cup water, and pour over the chicken. Bring to a boil, and simmer, covered, for about 20 minutes. Add the olives, and continue cooking for another 20 minutes. Sprinkle on the preserved lemon, and continue cooking for another 5 minutes. Garnish with the remaining cilantro. Serve with rice or couscous.
Yield: 4-6 Servings.
Preserved Lemons (Citrons Confits)
Preserved lemons are an indispensable item in my pantry cupboard. I use them all the time and believe they are best made at home. Although I have tasted lemons preserved in water or an equal mix of lemon juice and water, I much prefer them preserved in pure lemon juice. Many people scrape out and discard the pulp when using the lemons, but I often include the preserved pulp. I blend a preserved lemon in with my hummus, sprinkle the rind on grilled fish, and stuff my chicken with a whole lemon, and
I dice preserved lemons and mix them into salads, rice dishes, and vegetables. In addition to regular lemons, you can also use Meyer lemons or, as Irene Weil does, even kumquats.
8 lemons (about 1½ pounds)
About ½ cup kosher salt
,1 cup fresh lemon juice, plus more if necessary 2 tablespoons olive oil
.
Cut off the very ends of each lemon. Cut each one lengthwise into quarters, cutting to but not through the opposite end. Sprinkle
2 tablespoons of salt into the cut sides of each lemon. Put the lemons in a large jar (it’s fine if you have to squeeze them
in, because they will shrink), and cover completely with lemon juice. Let sit for a day. The next day, if they are not covered with lemon juice, pour a thin film of olive oil over the lemons. This will help keep them sealed while they preserve. Put the jar in the refrigerator and allow to cure for 2 to 3 weeks. Before using, scrape off the pulp if desired.
Yield: 8 Preserved Lemons
Review by Jordan Wright for Alexandria Times
September 2010
MetroStage’s worldwide premiere of “Glimpses of the Moon” is based on social commentarian Edith Wharton’s witty and incisive novel of the same title. It focuses on a hilarious hustle set in Manhattan and the posh watering holes of Maine, the Hamptons and Newport, Rhode Island during the rip-roaring Jazz Age.
 Natascia Diaz as flapper Susy Branch in Glimpses of the Moon - photo credit Colin Hovde Down-on-her-luck flapper, Suzy Branch, and brainy but flat-busted Harvard archaeologist, Nick Lansing, have caviar tastes on a bathtub gin budget. Together they concoct a calculated subterfuge to platonically wed and amass enough pawn-worthy wedding swag, and visits to the palatial digs of their well-heeled friends, to last an entire year. During that time the unscrupulous but adorable duo expect to divorce and marry up. But, ah, here’s the expected rub. They fall madly in love…with each other.
Notwithstanding the predictability of such familiar characters, this fast-paced musical is a clever, sophisticated and captivating dish served up with a huge scoop of humor.
The music, on a par with Sondheim’s best, supports the plot with 16 dazzling numbers like, “Cigars”, a moralistic musing on whether or not to pawn a host’s box of Havana cigars. It’s an uproarious conundrum filled with catchy lines. In the song their host, Streffy, retorts, “You drank gin from my bar. Why not take my cigars!”
“Dinner Party with Friends”, a jaunty ensemble piece, channels Noel Coward and F. Scott Fitzgerald and his East Egg swells with a riotous seated dance as guests chronicle the social pressures of pretense and how to maintain it.
In a timely exchange from the opening number, “Living in this Modern Age”, Suzy pleads, “Don’t you believe in love?” Ellie replies cynically, “I believe in Lehman Brothers!”
 The swells whoop it up in Glimpses - photo credit by Colin Hovde Outstanding are Helen Hayes award-winner Natascia Diaz as the spunky and sensitive Suzy, whose singing and dancing are pitch perfect; Gia Mora, as the well-married seductress, Ellie Vanderlyn, who brims with polish and stylish snap; Stephen Schmidt, as the suave and cuckolded Nelson Vanderlyn, who tackles the part so effortlessly it seems as though the part was written just for him; and Lauren “Coco” Cohn a veteran of “Legally Blonde 2” and “Desperate Housewives”, who as a hugely talented comedic character actor plays three roles including the awkward heiress, Coral Hicks, and the conspiratorial maid.
Another winning performance comes from Matthew Anderson as Winthrop “Streffy” Strefford. Anderson is a blonde-haired, blue-eyed version of Nathan Lane who tears up the stage with his hoofing and vamping. Look for him to return in MetroStage’s “A Broadway Christmas Carol” beginning its run on November 18th.
Although Sam Ludwig’s portrayal of Nick Lansing appeared a bit tentative in the frothy pace, he ditched his hesitancy in his duets, and his pure voice was a perfect harmonic counterpoint.
The catchy songs are supported by the cool flourishes of veteran musicologist and pianist, Darius Smith; woodwind/reed doubler, Brent Birkhead who this summer gained recognition from Downbeat Magazine as Best Blues/Pop/Rock soloist; and Washington DC native, Greg Holloway on percussion, who recently backed Pam Parker at DC’s Blues Alley.
Most recently the partnership of John Mercurio’s music and Tajlei Levis’s book and lyrics had only showcased their numbers at New York’s famed Algonquin Hotel, where it was performed in the Oak Room over a period of several months. The hotel, which was the daily lunch spot of the illustrious “Round Table”, a coterie of elite writers, editors and witheringly wry wits who gathered there in the ‘20’s, has a cabaret where “Glimpses of the Moon” was first shown and explains the appearance in the second act of the dazzling torch singer, played by Rosalind White. White, whose reputation as blues singer in such shows as “Dream Girls” and “Eubie!” netted her a Helen Hayes award for “Bessie’s Blues”, rivets the audience with “Right Here, Right Now”.
“Glimpses of the Moon” runs till October 17th. For tickets and information for the 2010-2011 season call: 1 800 494-8497 or visit www.metrostage.org
Review by Jordan Wright for Alexandria Times
October 2010
 The cast of Farragut North - Port City Playhouse - photo credit to Jacqueline Mathis Port City Playhouse wrapped up its exciting run of Farragut North this Sunday. Unfortunately this new hire reviewer caught one of the final performances of this political thriller dripping with treachery, ambition and betrayal…though I can attest that the caliber of the production reflects what I have come to expect from this local theatre troupe.
The play, which should be required viewing for all would-be politicians and those of us fascinated by behind-the-scenes machinations, is a primer on power plays, dirty deal-brokering and well-orchestrated leaks. It is a reality not for the faint of heart, but well known to playwright, Beau Willimon, who worked as campaign aide for candidates, Hilary Clinton and Howard Dean.
During its run the stellar cast of Adam Downs, Shelagh Roberts, Dan Beck, Eric Harrison, Tabitha Rymal, Cal Whitehurst, Isidora Sasser and Bill Byrnes was augmented with cameo appearances by former Congressman Tom Davis, former US Senator from Alaska Mike Gravel, former Alexandria City Councilman Lonnie Rich and former candidate for Congress, Lisa Marie Cheney.
Scheduled for last Friday evening was Alexandria Mayor Bill Euille, who took the old backstage adage of “break a leg” too literally and had his own version of bad luck when he slipped at the King Street Metro station while racing to a meeting in DC.
Port City Playhouse boldly chose an exciting and challenging play and they did a bang-up job of handling its complexities. Farragut North, is such a compelling story that Warner Brothers has picked it up and it begins shooting in 2011 with Leonardo DiCaprio, George Clooney and Phillip Seymour Hoffman.
Port City Playhouse leaves the Lee Center for The Lab at Convergence, an experimental venue for the arts at 1819 North Quaker Lane, Alexandria, VA 22302, where all future performances will be held. Next up Rashomon, scheduled to open November 5th and run through the 20th.
For tickets and information visit www.PortCityPlayhouse.com.
Special to Georgetowner/Downtowner
Jordan Wright
September 2010
The past two months have brought a variety of assignments and pleasures, from interviews with Bravo’s Top Chef finalist Kelly Liken; BLT Steak’s Laurent Tourondel; Eric Ripert, star of the PBS series “Avec Eric”; and a meeting at the Sofitel with patriarch Giorgio Gucci, third generation of the Gucci empire, in town to testify to Congress about the pervasiveness of black market goods and to offer ideas for new ways of enforcing existing laws. Of course, we all want the latest accessory…but he warns to stay away from the sidewalk vendor handbag/wristwatch knockoffs. He tells me plans are to arrest the buyers as well!
Giorgio Gucci Launches 50 Year Old Connoisseur Cognac
 Giorgio Gucci - photo by Jordan Wright Gucci is launching an ultra premium brand connoisseur cognac, “Giorgio G”, this week at the Pierre Hotel in New York City where his 30-, 50- and over 50-year old cognacs will sell at auction with the remaining 4,000 bottles offered to collectors. The indelibly charming Signori Gucci completed our interview with a kiss on the hand. Viva Italia!
5,000 Bottles of Wine on the Wall (Countdown to zero)
 Bison Filet at Atwater on Gore Creek in Vail, Co - photo by Jordan Wright A stay at the Vail Cascade Resort and Spa in Colorado earlier in the month brought us to pinnacles of dining higher than Vail Mountain itself. The food scene there is as breathtaking as Vail Mountain. We dined at the resort’s Atwater Restaurant where dinner is often served entirely by candlelight overlooking the sparkling Gore Creek; Larkspur, with a wine list so extensive it was in “mouseprint” so as to allow a guest to lift the weighty leather tome in order to select one of 5,000 bottles from over 500 labels; and Restaurant Kelly Liken, she of recent Top Chef fame, whose elk carpaccio stole my heart and whose thoughtfulness celebrated my birthday with a personalized menu.
Paradise Among the Turkeys and Elf Watermelons
A spirit-soothing luncheon and turkey tasting at Ayrshire Farm (You can order your organic and humanely-raised heritage turkey from their Home Farm store in Middleburg) prepared by one of my favorite local chefs, Robert Townsend, who introduced me to a new vegetable from his garden. Have you ever seen a Mexican sour gherkin? So cute! It looks like an elf’s watermelon. In its natural state it’s crunchy, tart and lemony like a kosher pickle. Conveniently you can grow it in a pot with a trellis. How perfect!
 Mitch Berliner - photo by Jordan Wright  Interior of Elf Watermelon - photo by Jordan Wright The gorgeous early fall afternoon was shared with two-time James Beard award-winner, Joan Nathan, whose latest book, “Quiches, Kugels and Cous Cous” is set to be released next month, and entrepreneur extraordinaire, Mitch Berliner, whose company, MeatCrafters makes fresh, cooked, cured and smoked meats that sell at the Bethesda Central Farm Market. Mitch was a co-founder back in the day…before the term “locavore” came on the scene, if you go back that far.
Go-Go Techno for Bittman
In the meanwhile Mark Bittman, in his latest foray into the techno-world of home cooks, has launched an app for IPhones based on his book “How to Cook Everything Essentials” which is the “Joy of Cooking” for young moderns.
Tourists Wowed by Cheesecake “Ice Cream” Cones
 Cheesecake Ice Cream Cones from The Source Catering - photo by Jordan Wright A private behind the scenes tour of The Source’s catering kitchens led by Executive Chef David Spychalski, proved to be delicious. After shooting the beautiful food in the Newseum’s cafeteria, I sat down to enjoy it, dining on tempura soft-shell crab, sushi and all manner of scrumptious desserts. Spychalski, who has been perfecting some creative new offerings, then offered samples to the surprised tourists who had been eagerly watching the whole tasting. Grateful, bug-eyed and thrilled were their reactions to cheesecake ice cream cones, chocolate truffle lollipops and massive trays of glistening sushi. The kids, thinking they were part of a TV show, became instant autograph hounds.
Local “Top Chef” News
A premiere viewing party for “Top Chef Desserts” was held at Hook for Pastry Chef and contestant Heather Chittum. Although she was nowhere to be seen, (Bravo contractual restrictions were in full force) her spirit was very much alive with a table the length of the restaurant chockfull of her signature desserts. Her craveable Salted Caramel Chocolate Tart and Whoopie Pies were paired with champagne cocktails while guests watched Chittum on the big screen. Virtual Heather – real desserts!
The town is abuzz with the news that “Top Chef” alumnus Mike Isabella, will open his new restaurant, Graffiato at 707 Sixth Street with investor Bryan Voltaggio next February. Isabella was the former head chef at José Andrés’ Zaytinya, still one of our favorite spots.
Eat, Chat, Drink – Ayurvedic Style
 Samosas at Indian Ocean - photo by Jordan Wright  Ragara patties served with both mint and tamarind chutneys - photo by Jordan Wright My search for an Ayurvedic Indian restaurant brought me last month to the Van Ness area, where I dined at Indian Ocean, the only one of its kind in our area. The Ayurvedic style of cooking reflects the ancient Hindu art of medicine and prolonging life, and owner, Raj Kapoor, is an avid messenger of the philosophy.
Everything we sampled including the traditional dishes like Chicken Tikka Masala, Lamb Roghan and tandoori oven baked dishes werer so much fresher and lighter. The secret: They don’t use butter, ghee or heavy cream, also noteworthy nothing is canned and no flour or sugar are ever used, only yogurt cream and olive oil.
With a menu that favors Goan and Northern Indian cuisine there is much to like and the UDC and Harvard Law students fill up the place at lunchtime. Their exclusive use of halal meats brings in the local embassy crowd who often use Indian Ocean to cater their receptions.
 Proscuitto Purses stuffed with Blue Cheese Mousse at The Source Catering - photo by Jordan Wright  Truffle Lollipops at The Source Catering - photo by Jordan Wright Mango, mint, tamarind and date chutneys are made in-house and more delicate and less sugary than most versions we know. Standouts were Palak Gosht, Samosa Chat, Onion Kulcha, Kabuli Naan, bread stuffed with raisins, cashews and almonds; Abbe Gosht Garam Masala, Tandoori Shrimp, Aloo Gobhi and a stellar Daal Maharani. The Goan influences fill the menu with seafood dishes using lobster, trout, salmon and prawns and there is a wealth of vegan dishes.
They are open seven days a week with a champagne brunch on Sundays.
Red Fruit Festival is a Red Hot Hit
The first annual Mid-Atlantic Red Fruit Festival held in the Pavilion Room at the Ronald Reagan Building was a red hot hit! In a contest sponsored by the Washington Post, winning home cooks from our area were paired with top local chefs who recreated and in some cases amped up their recipes. A Bloody Mary cocktail from ….won first prize but my favorites were food blogger April Fulton’s Tomato Tarte dessert. Fulton, whose blog is TheFoodScribe.com, was paired with Chef Xavier Deshayes. She told me Dessaye added hazelnuts to her tart crust and a sugared mint leaf. Bravo to him! It was addictive.
 April Fulton's Tomato Tarte Dessert - photo by Jordan Wright Another winner in my book was Jessica Sidman whose blog, TheFrozenFix.com, reports on her ice cream and sorbet experiments. Sidman was paired with local chef Michael Lund, formerly of Zynodoa in Staunton, VA who consults with restaurants and teaches Farm to Table classes at Stratford University. Lund served her Green Tomato Marbled Goat Cheese Ice Cream in mini black pepper tuiles topped with crushed corn nuts.
Fashion for Autism – Features Breakout New York Designer
 Amanda Hines Grilled Peach with Tomato Raspberry Sauce and Basil Whipped Cream - photo by Jordan Wright Throngs of Georgetown’s adorable fashionistas ganged up for the cause at City Tavern Club. The venerable old watering hole was rocking with disco lights, a performance by Julliard concert pianist, Edvinas Minkstimas and a full-blown red carpet fashion show with designs for men and women by Colombian-born Edwing D’Angelo. The silent auction featured a pair of glittering 8-inch heels by Fever Footwear. Well, I suppose you could just wear them to bed!
Miss DC 2010 Stephanie Williams was on hand to help us eat the chocolate and vanilla cupcakes from Serendipity3. When, oh when, will they serve the first Frrrozen Hot Chocolate confection in DC? Sound of foot tapping……
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