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Special to Washington Examiner
Jordan Wright
October 2010
 Book cover (Joan Nathan) It was what I call a pajama day. A damp, grey, stay-at-home kind of day. Leaves the color of wet tobacco clung to car windows like parking decals and the fruits of the hackberry and hawthorn trees stained the sidewalks with their juice. The chill of autumn came early, bringing with it a light drizzle after a long night of steady rain. But this was not a day for burrowing beneath the duvet. A visit to the Washington, DC home of Joan Nathan, the great lady of Jewish cookery, was on the calendar and nary a dark cloud would put the squeeze on a much-anticipated luncheon date with the acclaimed author. I was looking forward to discussing her soon to be released eleventh book, “Quiches, Kugels and Couscous – My Search for Jewish Cooking in France” (Knopf).
 The kitchen at the Washington DC home of Joan Nathan - photo by Jordan Wright I entered her well-appointed kitchen, chock-a-block with family mementoes, children’s drawings, books and artifacts, and immediately was smitten with the aroma of her anise-scented oatmeal bread wafting across the room. I ask you, no, I dare you to tell me that there is anything more welcoming than the scent of freshly baked bread.
At a long wooden table before my gourmand-weary eyes rested a bowl of Nathan’s homemade chicken soup with two golden orbs afloat. Redolent of carrots, ginger and nutmeg and bathing in a clear broth with chunks of light and dark chicken meat, the matzo balls glistened irresistibly in the wide white bowl. Curiously each one seemed formed by a different hand, the result I assumed of two separate test kitchen efforts.
 Chicken soup with two types of matzo balls - photo by Jordan Wright One wore the sylvan appearance of a white truffle, all nubbly and crevassed, while the other was smooth and evenly formed – the color of an Asian pear. The matzo balls were the handiwork of the renowned regionalist food writer and they were simple and glorious at the same time. To accompany the soup, a large round loaf of oatmeal bread studded with dates and walnuts was pulled from the oven. “Thump it for doneness.” Nathan cautioned her assistant, and the hollow sound reached into the adjoining dining room. The hot crusty loaf was served with Nathan’s favorite Plugra butter and a green salad with slices of red beets from her local farmers market.
Joan Nathan has been the sole voice of Jewish cooking in America since 1975 when her first book, The Flavor of Jerusalem, was published while she was living and working in Israel for Mayor Teddy Kollek. After she moved to New York City she was one of the founders of the ethnically diverse Ninth Avenue International Food Festival when she worked first under Mayor John Lindsay and later Mayor Abe Beame. Here in Washington her decades-long commitment to local food kitchens like Martha’s Table and DC Kitchen, where she is known for her fundraising “Sunday Night Suppers”, a collaborative dining series with Alice Waters, Tom Colicchio and José Andrés, has endeared her to those in the slow food community.
Many know Nathan from her nationally syndicated PBS show, Jewish Cooking in America with Joan Nathan and as a regular contributor to The New York Times Food Arts Magazine. A two-time James Beard award winner, she is scholar, memoirist and cook in this latest venture.
“France is the link from Israel to America, as far as Jewish food, because Ancient Israel is where all of our foods started before going to Europe and then coming to America. Jewish cooking in France is closer to the original cuisine,” she explained.
 Anise-scented oatmeal bread with dates and walnuts - photo by Jordan Wright She prepares the reader by providing centuries-old historical context for the creation, preservation and tradition of Jewish cookery in France. To understand how certain foods and methods of preparation evolved throughout France, Nathan shows it is necessary to know how the Jewish culture both influenced and was influenced by French cuisine. Not only did they trade in beans, sugar, barley, garlic and other precious foodstuffs, but they brought exotic spices, the art of making fois gras, carp served with sauce verte, and even introduced hot chocolate to the French culinary experience.
Thankfully the book offers far more than the catchy three-dish alliterative title suggests to the reader. Among the more than 200 recipes that have their origin in Spain, Morocco, Portugal, Germany and the Mediterranean, you’ll find such gems as Paul Bocuse’s Black Truffle Soup Elysée, tweaked by Nathan’s kosher re-interpretation; Baba au Rhum from the tiny 16-seat restaurant, Les Arômes outside of Marseilles; and a recipe for a hearty Alsatian Choucroute from a doctor in Strasbourg.
Nathan’s approach to the recipes is very forgiving, allowing the cook to substitute ingredients. “It depends on what’s in the fridge,” she offers. “I think the important thing about cooking is that it should be quick but not processed.” In her mission to find and preserve recipes throughout France, she fills the book with firsthand stories from farmers, shopkeepers, home cooks, professional cooks and Holocaust survivors. This is the sort of treasured cookbook writing that will inspire cooks to experience Jewish food and its culture. The book itself took nearly 4 ½ years of travel, research and recipe testing to deliver to her distinguished culinary and literary editor, Judith Jones, who was also editor to the late Julia Childs.
 Lunch at Joan Nathan's among the bookplates - photo by Jordan Wright As Nathan hand signed 400 bookplates for an upcoming book tour, we ate and spoke of food, family, religion and politics and the cities in which we have lived, traveled, worked and cooked. And as the day went on we nibbled on a large wedge of Comté accompanied by apples, plums and organic maple honey caramels from Sugar Revolution.
Here is her tasty recipe for Moroccan chicken from this marvelous new book.
 Moroccan Chicken with Olives and Preserved Lemons - photo credit Katie Stoops from the cookbook Moroccan Chicken with
Olives and Preserved Lemons
When Celine Bénitah cooks this dish, she blanches the olives for a minute to get rid of the bitterness, a step that I never bother with. If you keep the pits in, just warn your guests in order to avoid any broken teeth! Céline also uses the marvelous Moroccan spice mixture ras el hanout, which includes, among thirty other spices, cinnamon, cumin, cardamom, cloves, and paprika. You can find it at Middle Eastern markets or through the Internet, or you can use equal amounts of the above spices or others that
you like. To make my life easier, I assemble the spice rub the day before and marinate the chicken overnight. The next day, before my guests arrive, I fry the chicken and simmer it.
4 large cloves garlic, mashed
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 to 2 tablespoons ras el hanout
1 bunch of fresh cilantro, chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil
One 3½- to- 4- pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 cup black Moroccan dry-cured olives, pitted
Diced rind of 2 preserved lemons
Mix the mashed garlic with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste, the turmeric, the ras el hanout, half the cilantro, and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Rub the surface of the chicken pieces with this spice mixture, put them in a dish, and marinate in the refrigerator, covered, overnight. The next day, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large pan. Sauté the spice- rubbed chicken until golden brown on each side. Stir the cornstarch into 1 cup water, and pour over the chicken. Bring to a boil, and simmer, covered, for about 20 minutes. Add the olives, and continue cooking for another 20 minutes. Sprinkle on the preserved lemon, and continue cooking for another 5 minutes. Garnish with the remaining cilantro. Serve with rice or couscous.
Yield: 4-6 Servings.
Preserved Lemons (Citrons Confits)
Preserved lemons are an indispensable item in my pantry cupboard. I use them all the time and believe they are best made at home. Although I have tasted lemons preserved in water or an equal mix of lemon juice and water, I much prefer them preserved in pure lemon juice. Many people scrape out and discard the pulp when using the lemons, but I often include the preserved pulp. I blend a preserved lemon in with my hummus, sprinkle the rind on grilled fish, and stuff my chicken with a whole lemon, and
I dice preserved lemons and mix them into salads, rice dishes, and vegetables. In addition to regular lemons, you can also use Meyer lemons or, as Irene Weil does, even kumquats.
8 lemons (about 1½ pounds)
About ½ cup kosher salt
,1 cup fresh lemon juice, plus more if necessary 2 tablespoons olive oil
.
Cut off the very ends of each lemon. Cut each one lengthwise into quarters, cutting to but not through the opposite end. Sprinkle
2 tablespoons of salt into the cut sides of each lemon. Put the lemons in a large jar (it’s fine if you have to squeeze them
in, because they will shrink), and cover completely with lemon juice. Let sit for a day. The next day, if they are not covered with lemon juice, pour a thin film of olive oil over the lemons. This will help keep them sealed while they preserve. Put the jar in the refrigerator and allow to cure for 2 to 3 weeks. Before using, scrape off the pulp if desired.
Yield: 8 Preserved Lemons
Review by Jordan Wright for Alexandria Times
September 2010
MetroStage’s worldwide premiere of “Glimpses of the Moon” is based on social commentarian Edith Wharton’s witty and incisive novel of the same title. It focuses on a hilarious hustle set in Manhattan and the posh watering holes of Maine, the Hamptons and Newport, Rhode Island during the rip-roaring Jazz Age.
 Natascia Diaz as flapper Susy Branch in Glimpses of the Moon - photo credit Colin Hovde Down-on-her-luck flapper, Suzy Branch, and brainy but flat-busted Harvard archaeologist, Nick Lansing, have caviar tastes on a bathtub gin budget. Together they concoct a calculated subterfuge to platonically wed and amass enough pawn-worthy wedding swag, and visits to the palatial digs of their well-heeled friends, to last an entire year. During that time the unscrupulous but adorable duo expect to divorce and marry up. But, ah, here’s the expected rub. They fall madly in love…with each other.
Notwithstanding the predictability of such familiar characters, this fast-paced musical is a clever, sophisticated and captivating dish served up with a huge scoop of humor.
The music, on a par with Sondheim’s best, supports the plot with 16 dazzling numbers like, “Cigars”, a moralistic musing on whether or not to pawn a host’s box of Havana cigars. It’s an uproarious conundrum filled with catchy lines. In the song their host, Streffy, retorts, “You drank gin from my bar. Why not take my cigars!”
“Dinner Party with Friends”, a jaunty ensemble piece, channels Noel Coward and F. Scott Fitzgerald and his East Egg swells with a riotous seated dance as guests chronicle the social pressures of pretense and how to maintain it.
In a timely exchange from the opening number, “Living in this Modern Age”, Suzy pleads, “Don’t you believe in love?” Ellie replies cynically, “I believe in Lehman Brothers!”
 The swells whoop it up in Glimpses - photo credit by Colin Hovde Outstanding are Helen Hayes award-winner Natascia Diaz as the spunky and sensitive Suzy, whose singing and dancing are pitch perfect; Gia Mora, as the well-married seductress, Ellie Vanderlyn, who brims with polish and stylish snap; Stephen Schmidt, as the suave and cuckolded Nelson Vanderlyn, who tackles the part so effortlessly it seems as though the part was written just for him; and Lauren “Coco” Cohn a veteran of “Legally Blonde 2” and “Desperate Housewives”, who as a hugely talented comedic character actor plays three roles including the awkward heiress, Coral Hicks, and the conspiratorial maid.
Another winning performance comes from Matthew Anderson as Winthrop “Streffy” Strefford. Anderson is a blonde-haired, blue-eyed version of Nathan Lane who tears up the stage with his hoofing and vamping. Look for him to return in MetroStage’s “A Broadway Christmas Carol” beginning its run on November 18th.
Although Sam Ludwig’s portrayal of Nick Lansing appeared a bit tentative in the frothy pace, he ditched his hesitancy in his duets, and his pure voice was a perfect harmonic counterpoint.
The catchy songs are supported by the cool flourishes of veteran musicologist and pianist, Darius Smith; woodwind/reed doubler, Brent Birkhead who this summer gained recognition from Downbeat Magazine as Best Blues/Pop/Rock soloist; and Washington DC native, Greg Holloway on percussion, who recently backed Pam Parker at DC’s Blues Alley.
Most recently the partnership of John Mercurio’s music and Tajlei Levis’s book and lyrics had only showcased their numbers at New York’s famed Algonquin Hotel, where it was performed in the Oak Room over a period of several months. The hotel, which was the daily lunch spot of the illustrious “Round Table”, a coterie of elite writers, editors and witheringly wry wits who gathered there in the ‘20’s, has a cabaret where “Glimpses of the Moon” was first shown and explains the appearance in the second act of the dazzling torch singer, played by Rosalind White. White, whose reputation as blues singer in such shows as “Dream Girls” and “Eubie!” netted her a Helen Hayes award for “Bessie’s Blues”, rivets the audience with “Right Here, Right Now”.
“Glimpses of the Moon” runs till October 17th. For tickets and information for the 2010-2011 season call: 1 800 494-8497 or visit www.metrostage.org
Review by Jordan Wright for Alexandria Times
October 2010
 The cast of Farragut North - Port City Playhouse - photo credit to Jacqueline Mathis Port City Playhouse wrapped up its exciting run of Farragut North this Sunday. Unfortunately this new hire reviewer caught one of the final performances of this political thriller dripping with treachery, ambition and betrayal…though I can attest that the caliber of the production reflects what I have come to expect from this local theatre troupe.
The play, which should be required viewing for all would-be politicians and those of us fascinated by behind-the-scenes machinations, is a primer on power plays, dirty deal-brokering and well-orchestrated leaks. It is a reality not for the faint of heart, but well known to playwright, Beau Willimon, who worked as campaign aide for candidates, Hilary Clinton and Howard Dean.
During its run the stellar cast of Adam Downs, Shelagh Roberts, Dan Beck, Eric Harrison, Tabitha Rymal, Cal Whitehurst, Isidora Sasser and Bill Byrnes was augmented with cameo appearances by former Congressman Tom Davis, former US Senator from Alaska Mike Gravel, former Alexandria City Councilman Lonnie Rich and former candidate for Congress, Lisa Marie Cheney.
Scheduled for last Friday evening was Alexandria Mayor Bill Euille, who took the old backstage adage of “break a leg” too literally and had his own version of bad luck when he slipped at the King Street Metro station while racing to a meeting in DC.
Port City Playhouse boldly chose an exciting and challenging play and they did a bang-up job of handling its complexities. Farragut North, is such a compelling story that Warner Brothers has picked it up and it begins shooting in 2011 with Leonardo DiCaprio, George Clooney and Phillip Seymour Hoffman.
Port City Playhouse leaves the Lee Center for The Lab at Convergence, an experimental venue for the arts at 1819 North Quaker Lane, Alexandria, VA 22302, where all future performances will be held. Next up Rashomon, scheduled to open November 5th and run through the 20th.
For tickets and information visit www.PortCityPlayhouse.com.
Special to Georgetowner/Downtowner
Jordan Wright
September 2010
The past two months have brought a variety of assignments and pleasures, from interviews with Bravo’s Top Chef finalist Kelly Liken; BLT Steak’s Laurent Tourondel; Eric Ripert, star of the PBS series “Avec Eric”; and a meeting at the Sofitel with patriarch Giorgio Gucci, third generation of the Gucci empire, in town to testify to Congress about the pervasiveness of black market goods and to offer ideas for new ways of enforcing existing laws. Of course, we all want the latest accessory…but he warns to stay away from the sidewalk vendor handbag/wristwatch knockoffs. He tells me plans are to arrest the buyers as well!
Giorgio Gucci Launches 50 Year Old Connoisseur Cognac
 Giorgio Gucci - photo by Jordan Wright Gucci is launching an ultra premium brand connoisseur cognac, “Giorgio G”, this week at the Pierre Hotel in New York City where his 30-, 50- and over 50-year old cognacs will sell at auction with the remaining 4,000 bottles offered to collectors. The indelibly charming Signori Gucci completed our interview with a kiss on the hand. Viva Italia!
5,000 Bottles of Wine on the Wall (Countdown to zero)
 Bison Filet at Atwater on Gore Creek in Vail, Co - photo by Jordan Wright A stay at the Vail Cascade Resort and Spa in Colorado earlier in the month brought us to pinnacles of dining higher than Vail Mountain itself. The food scene there is as breathtaking as Vail Mountain. We dined at the resort’s Atwater Restaurant where dinner is often served entirely by candlelight overlooking the sparkling Gore Creek; Larkspur, with a wine list so extensive it was in “mouseprint” so as to allow a guest to lift the weighty leather tome in order to select one of 5,000 bottles from over 500 labels; and Restaurant Kelly Liken, she of recent Top Chef fame, whose elk carpaccio stole my heart and whose thoughtfulness celebrated my birthday with a personalized menu.
Paradise Among the Turkeys and Elf Watermelons
A spirit-soothing luncheon and turkey tasting at Ayrshire Farm (You can order your organic and humanely-raised heritage turkey from their Home Farm store in Middleburg) prepared by one of my favorite local chefs, Robert Townsend, who introduced me to a new vegetable from his garden. Have you ever seen a Mexican sour gherkin? So cute! It looks like an elf’s watermelon. In its natural state it’s crunchy, tart and lemony like a kosher pickle. Conveniently you can grow it in a pot with a trellis. How perfect!
 Mitch Berliner - photo by Jordan Wright  Interior of Elf Watermelon - photo by Jordan Wright The gorgeous early fall afternoon was shared with two-time James Beard award-winner, Joan Nathan, whose latest book, “Quiches, Kugels and Cous Cous” is set to be released next month, and entrepreneur extraordinaire, Mitch Berliner, whose company, MeatCrafters makes fresh, cooked, cured and smoked meats that sell at the Bethesda Central Farm Market. Mitch was a co-founder back in the day…before the term “locavore” came on the scene, if you go back that far.
Go-Go Techno for Bittman
In the meanwhile Mark Bittman, in his latest foray into the techno-world of home cooks, has launched an app for IPhones based on his book “How to Cook Everything Essentials” which is the “Joy of Cooking” for young moderns.
Tourists Wowed by Cheesecake “Ice Cream” Cones
 Cheesecake Ice Cream Cones from The Source Catering - photo by Jordan Wright A private behind the scenes tour of The Source’s catering kitchens led by Executive Chef David Spychalski, proved to be delicious. After shooting the beautiful food in the Newseum’s cafeteria, I sat down to enjoy it, dining on tempura soft-shell crab, sushi and all manner of scrumptious desserts. Spychalski, who has been perfecting some creative new offerings, then offered samples to the surprised tourists who had been eagerly watching the whole tasting. Grateful, bug-eyed and thrilled were their reactions to cheesecake ice cream cones, chocolate truffle lollipops and massive trays of glistening sushi. The kids, thinking they were part of a TV show, became instant autograph hounds.
Local “Top Chef” News
A premiere viewing party for “Top Chef Desserts” was held at Hook for Pastry Chef and contestant Heather Chittum. Although she was nowhere to be seen, (Bravo contractual restrictions were in full force) her spirit was very much alive with a table the length of the restaurant chockfull of her signature desserts. Her craveable Salted Caramel Chocolate Tart and Whoopie Pies were paired with champagne cocktails while guests watched Chittum on the big screen. Virtual Heather – real desserts!
The town is abuzz with the news that “Top Chef” alumnus Mike Isabella, will open his new restaurant, Graffiato at 707 Sixth Street with investor Bryan Voltaggio next February. Isabella was the former head chef at José Andrés’ Zaytinya, still one of our favorite spots.
Eat, Chat, Drink – Ayurvedic Style
 Samosas at Indian Ocean - photo by Jordan Wright  Ragara patties served with both mint and tamarind chutneys - photo by Jordan Wright My search for an Ayurvedic Indian restaurant brought me last month to the Van Ness area, where I dined at Indian Ocean, the only one of its kind in our area. The Ayurvedic style of cooking reflects the ancient Hindu art of medicine and prolonging life, and owner, Raj Kapoor, is an avid messenger of the philosophy.
Everything we sampled including the traditional dishes like Chicken Tikka Masala, Lamb Roghan and tandoori oven baked dishes werer so much fresher and lighter. The secret: They don’t use butter, ghee or heavy cream, also noteworthy nothing is canned and no flour or sugar are ever used, only yogurt cream and olive oil.
With a menu that favors Goan and Northern Indian cuisine there is much to like and the UDC and Harvard Law students fill up the place at lunchtime. Their exclusive use of halal meats brings in the local embassy crowd who often use Indian Ocean to cater their receptions.
 Proscuitto Purses stuffed with Blue Cheese Mousse at The Source Catering - photo by Jordan Wright  Truffle Lollipops at The Source Catering - photo by Jordan Wright Mango, mint, tamarind and date chutneys are made in-house and more delicate and less sugary than most versions we know. Standouts were Palak Gosht, Samosa Chat, Onion Kulcha, Kabuli Naan, bread stuffed with raisins, cashews and almonds; Abbe Gosht Garam Masala, Tandoori Shrimp, Aloo Gobhi and a stellar Daal Maharani. The Goan influences fill the menu with seafood dishes using lobster, trout, salmon and prawns and there is a wealth of vegan dishes.
They are open seven days a week with a champagne brunch on Sundays.
Red Fruit Festival is a Red Hot Hit
The first annual Mid-Atlantic Red Fruit Festival held in the Pavilion Room at the Ronald Reagan Building was a red hot hit! In a contest sponsored by the Washington Post, winning home cooks from our area were paired with top local chefs who recreated and in some cases amped up their recipes. A Bloody Mary cocktail from ….won first prize but my favorites were food blogger April Fulton’s Tomato Tarte dessert. Fulton, whose blog is TheFoodScribe.com, was paired with Chef Xavier Deshayes. She told me Dessaye added hazelnuts to her tart crust and a sugared mint leaf. Bravo to him! It was addictive.
 April Fulton's Tomato Tarte Dessert - photo by Jordan Wright Another winner in my book was Jessica Sidman whose blog, TheFrozenFix.com, reports on her ice cream and sorbet experiments. Sidman was paired with local chef Michael Lund, formerly of Zynodoa in Staunton, VA who consults with restaurants and teaches Farm to Table classes at Stratford University. Lund served her Green Tomato Marbled Goat Cheese Ice Cream in mini black pepper tuiles topped with crushed corn nuts.
Fashion for Autism – Features Breakout New York Designer
 Amanda Hines Grilled Peach with Tomato Raspberry Sauce and Basil Whipped Cream - photo by Jordan Wright Throngs of Georgetown’s adorable fashionistas ganged up for the cause at City Tavern Club. The venerable old watering hole was rocking with disco lights, a performance by Julliard concert pianist, Edvinas Minkstimas and a full-blown red carpet fashion show with designs for men and women by Colombian-born Edwing D’Angelo. The silent auction featured a pair of glittering 8-inch heels by Fever Footwear. Well, I suppose you could just wear them to bed!
Miss DC 2010 Stephanie Williams was on hand to help us eat the chocolate and vanilla cupcakes from Serendipity3. When, oh when, will they serve the first Frrrozen Hot Chocolate confection in DC? Sound of foot tapping……
Jordan Wright to Washington Examiner
September 2010
 Laurent Tourondel’s latest book touts the merits of local farmers markets. (Photo Courtesy of Wiley) Back when dinosaurs roamed the earth, as I like to tell it, we all ate what was in season. It was a time when few people had refrigeration in rural areas in the United States and in many countries around the world they still do not. The home kitchen had its icebox back then, a hulking wooden closet with heavy steel latches, not much more than a cooler really, that kept milk, eggs and butter chilled but wasn’t good for much else. All other foodstuffs were purchased daily at the local market or delivered. Each Monday the iceman would pull into the driveway, snatch a block of ice off his truck with huge iron tongs, and heave it into the icebox through an outside door on the kitchen porch. We still had one back in the 50’s before it was converted into a refrigerator.
It was typical to wait ten months before tucking into a garden-fresh tomato or a handful of cherries. There were no hydroponically grown super-veggies back then and the advent of summer meant more than an end of school days and a dip in the ocean. Winters were devoted to pining for sweet corn and fresh greens and dreaming of ways to prepare them. I know this sounds austere, but such was the way of life.
Before the dawning of the Kelvinator, we could only count on frozen fish or meat and Bird’s Eye peas to tide us over. We spent fall and winter dreaming of what most of us now take for granted in the supermarkets of today. With the advent of refrigerated shipping, transcontinental flights and mega-farms we now live in a world where we can feast on everything from corn and watermelon in winter and spring lamb all year round. While snowflakes fall we cut up fresh papaya and strawberries for breakfast and cook up Chilean sea bass for dinner. Is there anything left for us to dream about?
Now we can turn to Laurent Tourondel for seasonal direction in the kitchen. Known for the popular BLT Restaurants (Bistro Laurent Tourondel), he was named Bon Appetit’s “Restauranteur of the Year” in 2007. He has worked at Relais and Chateaux’s three Michelin-starred La Maison Troisgros in France and at Cello in New York City. This summer he opened the casual outpost, LT Burger, in tony Sag Harbor, NY and still serves as Executive Chef at Brasserie Ruhlmann in New York City. His first two very successful cookbooks were Bistro Laurent Tourondel and Go Fish.
In his third and latest book, penned with Charlotte March, Fresh From The Market – Seasonal Cooking from Laurent Tourondel, (Wiley), Tourondel accords the seasons their respective bounty and exhorts his readers to do the same. He adheres elegantly to the philosophy held by many of our best chefs to let a few choice ingredients drive the attitude of the dish. As a result his book is a primer on cooking in the simple French way of allowing an entire platter of in-season green beans with walnuts, a green salad and baguette with cheese to be a meal. And while dessert may be optional, wine is most assuredly not.
When I first read this book my impulse was to toss out a good chunk of my library, so taken have I been by its merits. But before you think that it is only about what you can grow in your kitchen garden or purchase from your local farmers market, you will need to be more expansive in your thinking. For above all Tourondel is a fine French chef, accustomed to working with truffles, partridge and foie gras. So dream accordingly, if you will.
 Photo of book cover - All photo credits to Quentin Bacon In a recent conversation with Tourondel he spoke of his new book, a hopeful meeting with Escoffier and the future of the American table.
Jordan Wright – I found your latest cookbook to be beautifully presented and replete with exquisitely tweaked French classics. What was your inspiration?
Laurent Tourondel – Really I like the seasonal product more than anything else. I was trying to create something fun for people to read and cook from.
JW – I understand you like to follow the evolving trends in food. What do you see for dining in the near future? And what ingredients will be driving your dishes?
LT – I think better and fresher products from the market. I think the evolution is about more organic product and to eat in a simpler way, with less preparation…to make dishes with a clean finish. People are asking for healthy food. Not necessarily vegan or vegetarian but healthier.
JW – What are your greatest day-to-day challenges?
LT – To cook for my girlfriend! But seriously, to teach people about what I do. That is the challenge of today.
JW – When you’re at home what do you crave the most?
LT – Cheese…a lot! And peanuts.
JW – If you were trying to impress a beautiful woman what would you prepare?
LT – Something light I think…perhaps my steamed lobster with a ginger lime broth.
JW – What famous or historical personage would you like to dine with?
LT – Henry IV, because he was crazy and he had great parties!
JW – If Escoffier came into your kitchen today what would you like to ask him?
LT – A million questions. I’d want to know what he thought of some of the newer ingredients he would be unfamiliar with and how he would choose to use them. And also I’d like to cook for the guy of course.
JW – What advice would you give to a new restaurant owner?
LT – Try to give people what they want, don’t just do the restaurant for yourself.
JW – What advice would you give to recent culinary graduates?
LT – Give yourself a destination of where you want your culinary career to go. Don’t go everywhere.
JW – Can you tell me about your new cookbook?
LT – I’m very excited about doing a seasonal cookbook. It was a long process because we had to do it season by season to obtain the right ingredients. I think it came out great!
Recipe from Fresh From The Market by Laurent Tourondel
Steamed Lobster in Gingered Lime and Scallion Broth with Baby Bok Choy
 Steamed Lobster in Gingered Lime-Scallion Broth with Baby Bok Choy from Fresh From The Market - photo credit Quentin Bacon The combination of ginger and lime results in a truly enchanting flavor, which is well suited for both savory and sweet dishes alike. This very light broth pairs quite well with other shellfish, such as shrimp and mussels, or firmer white fish.
SERVES 6
6 live lobsters, 2 pounds each
1/2 cup Chablis or another dry white wine
3 cups Vegetable Stock (page 304)
6 shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons matchstick-size strips peeled fresh ginger
11/2 tablespoons ginger juice (see page 96)
6 baby bok choy
4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, diced
4 scallions, thinly sliced on the bias
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
Zest of 2 limes
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Prepare the broth
Holding the lobster body in 1 hand and the tail in the other hand, twist the lobster until the body
and tail separate.
Repeat with the remaining 5 lobsters. Using the back of a chef’s knife, crack the claws off the
lobster bodies just below the knuckles. Reserve the bodies for making lobster stock or freeze
them for another use.
Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the lobster claws and cook
until the shells become bright red and the claw meat is just barely cooked through, about 8
minutes. Transfer the claws to a bowl of ice water.
Once cool, remove the claw meat from the shells.
Using a chef’s knife, cut the lobster tails in half lengthwise and discard any intestines that
may be clinging to the tail.
Leave the meat in the shells. Bring the Chablis to boil in a large saucepan. Add the lobster tails,
flesh side down, and the vegetable stock. Cover and cook until the lobster meat is just barely
cooked through, about 3 minutes.
Remove the tails from the broth.
Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain the broth into a clean medium saucepan over medium heat.
Add the shitake mushrooms, ginger, and ginger juice to the broth and simmer until the ginger
is soft, about 3 minutes. Strain the broth again through a fine-mesh strainer and into a large
saucepan, reserving the mushrooms and ginger.
Finish the broth
Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the bok choy and cook until
crisp-tender, about 3 minutes.
Immediately transfer the bok choy to a bowl of ice water and allow to cool.
Using an immersion blender, blend the cold butter into the strained broth until emulsified.
Return the reserved mushrooms and ginger, lobster claw meat, and blanched bok choy to the
broth along with the scallions, cilantro, lime juice, lime zest, and cayenne and continue to cook
over low heat for 2 minutes.
To serve
Divide the lobster tails among 6 large shallow bowls. Arrange the claw meat and 1 bok choy
over each lobster tail. Spoon the sauce and vegetables over the lobster tails and claws and serve.
Wine suggestion
Serve this dish with an exotic white Rhone blend that offers rich flavors of guava, minerals,
and Asian spices, such as Tensley, “Blanc,” 2007, Santa Barbara County, California.
Special to Georgetowner/Downtowner
Jordan Wright
September 2010
 The stunning Barbara Smith with her Southern Style cookbook Union Station, the magnificent early 20th century train station that houses B. Smith’s Restaurant in Washington, DC is one of the most majestic buildings in the city. Designed by distinguished American architect, Daniel Burnham, it has been a national landmark since its completion in 1908.  The magnificent dining room at B. Smith's Restaurant in Union Station Washington, DC - photo by Jordan Wright The splendid Beaux Arts statuary was created by no less a sculptor than Louis St. Gaudens, whose 50-plus figures in the station were considered his finest work. Adding to its tony provenance is its proximity to the US Senate and the charming Le Notre-inspired gardens.
Sixteen years ago the stunning Barbara Smith, Vogue supermodel and African-American style setter, opened her very popular restaurant along the south side of the building. Housed in what was once known as the Presidential Suite, it is the same site where US Presidents and dignitaries once convened before their inaugurations. With its spectacular décor, lavish period chandeliers and Presidential seals still intact it is in these turn-of-the-century rooms where B. Smith, as h is known, serves her delightful mix of Cajun, Creole and Southern cuisine.
Recently I visited the restaurant to try out her new fall menu. I found her signature style still in place with smartly suited and wine-savvy servers, low country cuisine and a genteel atmosphere. In the background a baby grand played softly as we sampled fried chicken livers with onion confit and pineapple chutney; crawfish and crab dip and pan-seared grouper over hoppin’ John rice with a citrus beurre blanc. The osso bucco with creamy asparagus risotto didn’t speak to the Southern style but was tender and lusciously sauced all the same.
 Fried Chicken Livers with Onion Confit and Pineapple Chutney at B. Smiths - photo by Jordan Wright  Beignets with Caramel Amaretto Sauce at B. Smiths - photo by Jordan Wright Several well-chosen and gently priced wines accompanied our dinner. We began with a 2008 Caymus Conundrum…a blend (I know, I know, but just get over it. I did!) of California whites but really very soft and lovely with honeysuckle overtones, and followed up with a 2007 Sacred Hill Marlborough Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc in which I divined chocolate, plum and cinnamon tones.
B. Smith’s still keeps their ever-popular Bourbon Street bread pudding on the menu but it was the beignets that really charmed. Oh to have a half dozen of these warm, sweet treats for breakfast with a cup of French Market chicory coffee!
For reservations and information contact www.bsmith.com
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