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Interview with Luca Guadagnino, Director of “I Am Love”

Jordan Wright
June 2010

Tilda Swinton in I AM LOVE

Tilda Swinton in I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

Italian film director, Luca Guadagnino’s latest film, “I Am Love” (“Io Sono L’Amore”), starring Tilda Swinton, is a social melodrama, written in the tradition of writers such as Henry James and F. Scott Fitzgerald.  An elegant cinematic foray into the private lives of the Italian aristocracy, it is both an exploration and exploitation of the triumphs and foibles of its characters and their enduring mystique.  Designed with voluptuous attention to culinary detail, the film uses the preparation of food and its cultural significance not only as a vehicle to define love, control and betrayal, but also as a means of self-expression, epiphany and passion.

Food from I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

Food from I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

Before the filming, a labor of love taking a decade to bring to the screen, Guadagnino tapped two-star Michelin chef, Carlo Cracco, to teach the actors how to cook.  Cracco, a progressive Italian chef whose Milan restaurant, Cracco-Peck, was selected for S. Pellegrino’s list of “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” in 2009, delved into the characters’ psyches to divine their individual aspirations and spirit, a practice he employs with all his customers.

“Cooking is, above all, communication, because it is where the magic of interchange may take place. It ties people together and unites them with this very fine and magical thread that is food,” Cracco elaborates.

The film, releasing this week, has already garnered recognition as the Official Selection of both the 2009 Venice Film Festival, the 2009 Toronto Film Festival and, more recently, the 2010 Sundance Film Festival.

In a conversation with Guadagnino, we spoke of food and its role in the film and in his life.

Jordan Wright – What are your earliest remembrances of food?

Luca Guadagnino – I have two memories about food.  The first one is that of my father in the kitchen.  I learned a lot about male identity from seeing my father cook.  He’s 78 now and still cooks.  He is an amazing cook.  So good!  And whenever I’m in Rome I go to my parents’ home to enjoy his cooking.

Pea soup shooters on the set of I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

Pea soup shooters on the set of I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

And then I remember when I was a kid I didn’t have cars to play with, I had little pans, and in Ethiopia, where I was raised, we had a garden.  One day I was picking peas and I brought them in the kitchen under the surveillance of my mother.  I asked her to put the peas on the fire because I wanted to cook.  Later when I returned to the kitchen nobody could find the pan and I never knew what happened to the peas.  This mystery of the disappearance of the peas is haunting me since.

JW – What do you miss or crave the most when you travel?

LG – First I miss my bed.  Well, basically my house is a plane…always!  But I miss tranquility and the routine.  I love routine, even food routine, like when you know what you want to eat, where you will purchase it and you know how to cook it.  The most enjoyable thing for me is to wake up, to do breakfast and then to go in the market to find the right groceries, the right vegetables, and cook.  When I’m home I shop every day or twice a day…once for lunch and again to prepare dinner.   But mostly, I miss my father’s food.

JW – What is your favorite dish?

LG – I like simple food.  I like a piece of fresh fish grilled with lemon.  And I like latte di mandorla.  You make a paste of the almonds and then dilute it with water.  It looks milky and it’s so sweet and refreshing.

Food from I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

Food from I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

JW – I want to talk about Emma’s loving preparation of the very complex fish soup, “ukha”, from her native Russia and the erotic nature that food plays in your film.  What did the “uhka” mean to you?  Was it a dish you were familiar with?

LG – We did a lot of research and discovered that the Russian cuisine was very much influenced by the French haute cuisine of the 18th and 19th centuries. There are very few complicated and specific Russian dishes and this is one of them.  I love the idea of the transparency of the broth and Emma is transparent, translucent and intense…like that broth.

JW – What do you consider the most sensuous foods?

LG – Maybe I’m being very parochial.  But for me, prawns are, and also the silkiness of some vegetables.

JW – Why did you choose the great Italian chef, Carlo Cracco, to design and prepare the food for the film?  Were you familiar with his restaurant and cuisine before you brought him on?

LG – I am a gourmet, so if I have money I go often to eat in great restaurants wherever I am.  I knew Carlo and I had been to his restaurant five or six times before asking him to do the movie with me.  I really like his food.  There is a great sensuality about his cooking and he is one of the most interesting European chefs.

This interview was conducted, condensed and edited by Jordan Wright.  Or questions or comments contact [email protected] or visit www.WhiskandQuill.com.

Whisk and Quill Talks with Anthony Bourdain

Jordan Wright
May 2010

Anthony Bourdain author and  host of Travel Channel’s “No Reservations” is the consummate dinner guest.

Anthony Bourdain author and host of Travel Channel’s “No Reservations” is the consummate dinner guest.

As the host of Travel Channel’s “No Reservations”, Anthony Bourdain is the consummate dinner guest. An endearing enfant terrible, with a peripatetic wanderlust to rival Darwin and a puckish swagger that would make Bluebeard seem as docile as a clam, he slurps and sups the world’s melting pot in dogged pursuit of ethno-gastronomic delicacies. With cheerful I’ll eat-anything-you-put-in-front-of-me sangfroid, he lustily relishes fish brains, ant larvae, pig’s eyeballs, or sparrow liqueur and the like on his adventures to far-flung locales. For his endless curiosity he has garnered a devoted audience, three Emmy nominations and penned eight bestsellers, including the deliciously lurid ”Kitchen Confidential”.

In his latest memoir, “Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook” (HarperCollins), due out next month, he threatens to yank the delicate scrim off noted chefs. Alice Waters, David Chang, and “Top Chef” winners and losers will feel the sting of the provocateur’s barbs.

The gritty and endearing Bourdain, appears at the Warner Theatre on May 21st for one night only with cohort and chef/restaurateur, Eric Ripert of DC’s Westend Bistro and famed NYC’s Le Bernadin for an evening of tale-swapping and secrets of restaurant skullduggery.

In a recent interview he spoke to me about his life, his new book and his upcoming appearance in Washington, DC.

Jordan Wright – You take inordinate pleasure in poking the prevailing food fashionistas, uncovering the raw underbelly of restaurants, and snubbing the establishment. What propels you on to your next adventure?

Anthony Bourdain – I have a restless and curious mind, and as much as I might not like to face it, I’m probably becoming the food establishment at this point. But I do it because I can. It’s my nature. I get angry when I see abuse, and ecstatic when the experience is great.

I enjoy traveling. I like chefs and get paid to do what I like doing. And, thankfully, I’m not expected to behave or be diplomatic. I’m clearly very lucky and very foolish to do what I do and thankfully I can benefit from low expectations. With Eric [Ripert], he and I have a lot in common, but he has the burden of a reputation to protect and I don’t.

JW – Your independent take-no-prisoners style of writing is delightfully anarchic. What makes for a good food writer in your opinion?

AB – Certainly a willingness to step out of one’s comfort zone. If you’re writing about food, it’s very, very important to like and appreciate the people that make your food…also a lack of snobbery, definitely honesty, and to not be willfully disingenuous. If you really enjoy eating food I don’t think you have to know about food. That will come. But you should be passionate about it. Be an honest broker with an open mind and an open heart. I think some of the most dynamic writing on food is obviously coming off the blogosphere.

JW – The chimera is a fabulous fire-breathing monster with the head of a lion, body of a goat, and tail of a serpent. Would you eat it and how would you prepare it?

AB – If I were surprised by it as a guest in someone’s home in a developing country, I would accept it out of politeness, rather than offend my host. Though if I were to prepare it, I’d cook it low and slow with a bottle of good wine.

JW – You’ve eaten your way throughout the four corners of the world what fusion would you create that hasn’t yet been done?

AB – I’m generally not a fan, I think it’s dangerous territory. But two of my favorite restaurants are in New York, Momofuku Ko and Momofuku Saam, which use French, Southern American, Italian and Korean fusion. It’s utterly fantastic, perhaps because it breaks all the rules.

JW – There have been three books written about Louise Brooks. One is her autobiography in which she speaks of my grandfather as her greatest paramour. You said that Louise Brooks would be a preferred dining companion at your last supper? Why did you choose her?

AB – I enjoyed her autobiography “Lulu in Hollywood” and saw two of her films. I think she was a fascinating, and an extraordinarily forward-thinking and independent woman, especially for her times. She struck me as someone with interesting things to say and who would be a powerful presence at the dining table.

JW – On to the more mundane… What are your favorite restaurants in DC?

AB – Any restaurant that Jose Andres is associated with. I love Minibar! I love Michel Richard and Bob Kinkead’s place! Oh my God! Who am I leaving out? Oh, and El Pollo Rico! And Eamonn’s too in Alexandria!

JW – What do you cook at home?

AB – Cooking pasta makes me happy. Maybe a steak, but I like to use one pan and keep it simple. I have so little time to spend with my family. In NYC I just pick up the phone and I can order Japanese, Thai, Chinese, and French…or a human head delivered!

JW – What foods would you like to see more of in the US?

AB – I like bottarga very much and jamon Iberico. And I know it’s a dream, but more unpasteurized raw milk cheeses, especially really stinky ones from France and Italy…and artisanal sausages from Sardinia.

I’m a sushi slut, so, I’d say more high quality sushi…though maybe not, because of the over-fishing. As an institution I would like to see Singapore-style hawkers’ centers. That would be a great development for our country.

JW – What importance do you accord to ambiance, food, and service to define a successful restaurant?

AB – These days I like ambiance and service as unobtrusive and informal as possible. What I really appreciate at Momofuku Ko is you’re getting two-star Michelin food over a counter, directly from a cook who’s wearing a dishwasher’s shirt. That’s awesome!

I don’t need flowers and china and expensive silverware, unless you’re talking about French Laundry or Per Se. I am breathless with admiration for those two. But more often then not it’s about the food. If I’m comfortable without a tie, I’m more likely to be enjoying my food. I’d just as soon be in cut-offs and bare feet.

JW – You’ve experienced foods from cultures that no outsider will ever taste. Please choose from the following answers. If an ivory-billed woodpecker was struck by a car and lay by the roadside, as I was on my afternoon stroll, I would:

A) Try to revive it
B) Call the local bird rehabilitator
C) Fire up the grill
D) Go for the eyeballs first

AB – Call the bird rehabilitator.

JW – Oh my, you are a romantic!

AB – I like cute animals.

JW – What can you tell me about your new book?

AB – I am living in a state somewhere between suspended animation and mortal terror. It comes out June 8th and I have no idea how it will be received. I’m pretty sure there are going to be people pretty angry with me, but it’s too late to stop it now. Talk to me in two months! Right now I’m really looking forward to coming to DC to do this rare gig with Eric.

For tickets to “No Reservations: An Evening with Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert” visit www.WarnerTheatre.com

This interview was conducted, condensed and edited by Jordan Wright. For questions or comments contact [email protected].

Great Epicurean Escapes Begin!

Beautiful South Carolina - photo by Janine Schoonover

Beautiful South Carolina - photo by Janine Schoonover

Dear Friends and Followers,

Jordan’s Great Epicurean Escapes will be making a culinary sweep of South Carolina this month and tweeting you updates from our adventure.

We will be staying at four historical properties – Litchfield Plantation, a spectacular retreat set on a 1750’s former rice plantation and dripping with Southern legend; Wentworth Mansion, a splendidly elegant hotel built in the Gilded Age; Abingdon Manor Country Inn, a Greek Revival Bed and Breakfast whose chef/owner holds monthly cooking classes for its guests; and Beaufort Inn, a pink wedding cake Victorian in the low-country fishing village of Beaufort, where I’ll learn from the shrimpers and oystermen, pick my own strawberries from the fruit and vegetable farmers at Dempsey Farms on Saint Helena Island and dine at the Saltus River Grill on sustainable seafood.

There will be kitchen tours and interviews with leading area chefs and visits to restaurants throughout the Palmetto State.  High Cotton, The Lazy Goat and Devereaux’s in Greenville, McCrady’s, Snob, Bistro 213 and Circa 1886 in Charleston.  We’ll also dine at Frank’s on beautiful Pawley’s Island and meet with the owners of Firefly Vodka, Happy Cow Creamery, Anson Mills, the Charleston Tea Plantation, and the Carolina Rice Plantation along the way.

We’re excited to experience the great Southern hospitality of our friends in South Carolina.  Follow us as we make our way along the highways and byways.

Jordan Wright
June 2010

RAMMY Awards

Jordan Wright
June 2010

At a packed-house gala evening The Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington held their 2010 RAMMY Awards to its members at the Marriott Wardman Park.  Hard-working chefs, restauranteurs and their staff, sommeliers and mixologists and all those who labor mightily all year to please us and our discerning palates came together to celebrate their night.

The invitation read black tie optional or 1940’s glamour and many of the ladies were beautifully turned out in long gloves and cocktail hats befitting the occasion.  The men were a bit timid about the attire suggestion but there were a few creative interpretations, like cowboy and Beau Brummel dandy.

Argentina, Virginia, Australia and Chile provided fabulous food and wines, once you could get through the lines. The locally-sourced oysters and seviche from Virginia and short ribs and gingered lamb chops from Australia were particularly delicious.

On the upper deck après dinner, dozens of beautiful and creative desserts were presented alongside an open bar stocked with cordials. Well, it did feel a bit like dining on a cruise ship.

The following day Whisk and Quill got an unexpected bump with several photos of Food editor/Food Writer, Jordan Wright, with the NBCWashington.com lead story on the event.

Here are the details you’ve been waiting for:

Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year 2941 from Falls Church, Va. 2010 Chef of the Year Scott Drewno of The Source by Wolfgang Puck.

DC’s popular newsman, Bob Madigan (WTOP’s Man About Town), with his ever-present microphone, was given the Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award.

RAMW recognized ProChile/Wines of Chile for the Joan Hisaoka Associate Member of the Year.

RAMMY WINNERS:
Chef of the Year:  Scott Drewno, The Source by Wolfgang Puck
Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year: 2941
New Restaurant of the Year: Birch & Barley
Upscale Casual Restaurant of the Year: Vermilion
Pastry Chef of the Year: Anthony Chavez, 2941
Wine Program: Proof
Beverage/Mixology Program: Gina Chersevani of PS7’s
Rising Culinary Star: Nicholas Stefanelli, Bibiana
Restaurant Manager of the Year: Mark Politzer, Bourbon Steak
Restaurant Employee of the Year: Adolfo Cajchon, Seasons Restaurant
Joan Hisaoka Associate Member: ProChile/Wines of Chile
Neighborhood Gathering Place: Cork
Hottest Restaurant Bar Scene: Birch & Barley/ChurchKey
Power Spot: BLT Steak
WHERE MAGAZINE Visitors’ Choice Award: The Capital Grille

On the Rails with the Epicurean Express – Top New Orleans Chefs and Local Southern-Style Chefs Pitch In to Help Gulf Coast Fisherman

Jordan Wright
June 2010

New Orleans Chefs (from left) Brian Landry of Galatoire's, Greg Reggio of Zea, Tory Stewart of Broussard's, and Chris Lask of Adelaide's - photo by Jordan Wright

New Orleans Chefs (from left) Brian Landry of Galatoire's, Greg Reggio of Zea, Tory Stewart of Broussard's, and Chris Lask of Adelaide's - photo by Jordan Wright

Sweet and Spicy Alligator hors d'oeuvre from Chef Greg Reggio of Zea Rotisserie Grill - photo by Jordan Wright

Sweet and Spicy Alligator hors d'oeuvre from Chef Greg Reggio of Zea Rotisserie Grill - photo by Jordan Wright

Last night at Union Station aboard the beautifully restored antique locomotive, the Patrón Tequila Express, top New Orleans chefs joined forces to raise money for the fisherman of the Gulf Coast.  On the tracks Brian Landry of Galatoire’s, Greg Reggio of Zea Rotisserie Grill, Chris Lusk of Broussard’s and local chefs, David Guas, pastry chef and author of “Dam Good Sweet, Ann Cashion of Johnny’s Half Shell, and Jeff Tunks of DC Coast and Acadiana lent their considerable culinary talents to the families helped by the St. Bernard Project.  Area mixologists, Gina Chersevani of PS7’s, hot off her RAMMY victory for “Mixologist of the Year”, and Damian Torguson of Brasserie Beck created fabulous cocktails featuring Patrón Tequila.

Heidi O'Leska on the Patron Tequila Express with a Resurected Sangree garnished with cotton candy by Gina Chersevani of PS7's - photo by Jordan Wright

Heidi O'Leska on the Patron Tequila Express with a Resurected Sangree garnished with cotton candy by Gina Chersevani of PS7's - photo by Jordan Wright

Amidst all the lavish food and drink we knew we were here for a very real and immediate disaster relief effort assisted by the St. Bernard Project for residents affected by the recent Gulf oil spill.   The organization, established in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina ravaged the Gulf, by fellow George Washington University Law School grads, Liz McCartney, and Zack Rosenburg, has been helping families in the region since 2005.  The two friends went down after the storm to see what they could do and stayed to build 275 houses, develop wellness and mental health services, and a Good Work Good Pay (GWGP) jobs program with the aid of government grants and the Louisiana State University’s Health Sciences Center.  Today over 250 volunteers show up to lend a hand every week.  In 2008 Liz, a former Peace Corps volunteer, was recognized by CNN as “Hero of the Year” and both were awarded “Louisiana Social Innovators of 2010” by Lieutenant Governor, Mitch Landrieu.

Fellow chefs, David Guas (left) and Jeff Tunks of DC Coast and Acadiana - photo by Jordan Wright

Fellow chefs, David Guas (left) and Jeff Tunks of DC Coast and Acadiana - photo by Jordan Wright

“We started the St. Bernard project to support the resilient people of the New Orleans area. Through them we’ve learned so much about the importance of family and community and the oil spill threatens their livelihoods, their culture, their health and their way of life and we’re more determined than ever before to protect and restore the lives of people in Southeast Louisiana,” McCartney told me.

The tour, called the “Epicurean Express” will be taking the Patrón Tequila Express train around the country with more stops scheduled in New Orleans, Philadelphia and Los Angeles.

What We Couldn’t Get Enough Of

Bisque Marinated Crab Fingers from Chef Brian Landry of Galatoire's - photo by Sara Mosqueda-Fernandez

Bisque Marinated Crab Fingers from Chef Brian Landry of Galatoire's - photo by Sara Mosqueda-Fernandez

From Landry came Crawfish Maison on Endive and Bisque Marinated Crab Fingers.  Fellow New Orleanian, Greg Reggio, prepared Gulf Oyster and Artichoke Soup and Sweet and Spicy Grilled Alligator.  DC Southern-style chef, Ann Cashion filled patty shells with Spicy Bacon and Pan-Roasted Oyster or Beef Brisket with Debris Gravy.  Tunks offered his Deviled Eggs with Louisiana Choupique Caviar, Crabmeat Ravigote, and Bloody Mary Gulf Coast Oyster Shooter.

All aboard the Epicurean Express - photo by Sara Mosqueda-Fernandez

All aboard the Epicurean Express - photo by Sara Mosqueda-Fernandez

Our own New Orleans native son, Guas made a luscious Banana Pudding, while Chersevani and Torguson drowned us in Patrón Tequila cocktail love.

What we do for a good cause!

For questions or comments on this article contact [email protected]

Whisk and Quill at the RAMMY Awards

Jordan Wright of Whisk and Quill was spotted last night at the RAMMY Awards by NBC Washington.  For photos, follow the link below:

http://www.nbcwashington.com/blogs/niteside/RAMMYS-95758874.html