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Jordan Wright
September 19, 2011
Special to The Alexandria Times
Port City Playhouse, a community theatre whose work has continually expressed challenging and innovative productions with a high level of complexity, has chosen two one-acts by American playwright Christopher Durang to open the new fall season. From the company’s former home at Lee Center to a humble theatre at The Lab at Convergence in Alexandria, I have reviewed many of the group’s stellar performances that have often outshone some of the best, most elaborate stagings the area has to offer. But unfortunately, these were not in the same league as their past successes.
In The Actor’s Nightmare, a comedic mash-up, snug in Durang’s absurdist niche, our erstwhile hero George is shuffled willy-nilly by his co-stars into various roles in various plays – from Noel Coward’s Private Lives to Shakespeare’s Hamlet. George, a lowly accountant, shows up at the theatre and is mistaken for the play’s lead actor Edwin Booth, late for his curtain call. The premise calls to mind the classic actor’s nightmare of forgetting what play he’s in, what lines to use, or what role he’s playing and in which production. George who tries his best to wiggle out of the situation has his worst fears realized when numerous attempts to get his lines from the stage manager are ultimately abandoned and he begins to quote from every play he’s ever known, so the show can go on.
To his dismay, his leading lady forces his response. “Extraordinary how potent cheap music is!” she declares repetitively quoting Noel Coward. But poor George’s desperation to find the appropriate line only mounts, and the audience’s hilarity rises in sync, as he recites adages, platitudes, soliloquies, Shakespearean plays, and ultimately the Pledge of Allegiance in an attempt to mollify her.
Ric Andersen (George), an oft-praised local performer, does a bang up job as the hapless Hamlet and erstwhile Elyot and manages to keep the laughs rolling along with Aimee Meher-Homji (Ellen Terry) and Larissa Norris (Meg). Ignore the inferior production values if you can.
The twofer concludes with Sister Mary Ignatius Explains It All For You which premiered off-Broadway in 1979 in fine company with plays by Tennessee Williams, David Mamet and Marsha Norman and later ran for many years in revivals. Ground-breaking for its time, its current relevance seems dubious. An informal poll reveals some Catholics identify with the issues and some don’t. As a non-Catholic I could only speculate as to the validity of the horrors of Catholic school and that of some of the nuns. Though I have certainly not been exempt to tales told out of school.
In any case Sister Mary Ignatius has it all figured out – heaven, hell, purgatory and limbo in living color, and if this strikes a chord with you than sign on for the ride along with The Good Shepherd. The Sister, ably played by Amy Solo returning to the stage after a 29-year absence, punctuates her rigid precepts with her mini-me, little Thomas, who spouts the catechism like a faithful pup begging for treats, that she in fact doles out to him with each rote recitation. Remy Bartell is a third-grader who bloody near steals the whole shebang with his spot on, gap-toothed portrayal of Thomas. (Oh W.C. Fields where are you? Fields knew kids and dogs would steal the spotlight and avoided them like the plague.)
When former students return for a reenactment of a school play, the Sister learns they are not the adoring children she reminisces about. They are embittered, damaged by her Draconian methods, and looking for a face-off as she talks “of the utter randomness of life”. The ending is so stunning I cannot reveal it except to say that it redeems the whole play.
Spirited acting and inferior staging make for an uneven experience. But see it if only for the message that most in the audience clearly related to.
Port City Playhouse at The Lab at Convergence 1819 North Quaker Lane, Alexandria, VA 22302. Through October 2nd, 2011. For tickets and information visit www.portcityplayhouse.com.
Jordan Wright
August 3, 2011
Special to The Washington Examiner
STAYING GREEN
 Executive Chef Rafael Gonzalez at the Four Seasons Hotel rooftop garden - Photo Credit Jordan Wright The very upscale Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia has hopped on the green bandwagon by building over a dozen raised bed planters on their rooftop garden overlooking Logan Circle. Spilling over with cute mini-veggies, glorious flowers used in the hotel’s luxe arrangements, and lush with menu-driven herbs like chocolate mint and lemon thyme, the garden-with-a-view uses other green initiatives like beehives and naturally fertilized soil from hotel compost to coddle their plants.
Executive Chef Rafael Gonzalez need only zip up to the 8th floor to pluck fresh ingredients for his exquisite cuisine. The hotel has even enlisted their chief engineer to design a wastewater-recycling program. Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia, One Logan Sq.; 215 405-2815; www.fourseasons.com/philadelphia
HELLO FARMER!
 Beck’s Cajun bar at the Redding Terminal - Photo Credit Jordan Wright The restored Reading Terminal Market, originally built in 1893 is the nation’s oldest continuously operating farmer’s market and a great stop to grab lunch and stock up on everything from Lancaster County Amish pickles and jams, crusty breads and pastries, or crab cakes and smoked meat sandwiches from family-run vendors. Try the spicy gumbo at Beck’s or squeeze in at the counter at Pearl’s Oyster Bar for a dozen of the briny mollusks and a cup of Philly’s favorite snapper soup. On the same aisle, the Fair Food Farmstand carries cheeses, herbs, grass-fed meats and organic veggies from more than 90 sustainable small-scale farms. 12th and Arch Sts.
 Kingfisher Dairy Farm whole raw milk - Photo Credit Jordan Wright In the West Philly neighborhood, Annie Baum-Stein’s groove-in-the-hood Milk and Honey Market carries Kingfisher Farms raw milk. Savor a frosty glass of the forbidden liquid here, since you can’t buy it in the DC area where it’s still illegal. Another local producer Claudio’s provides creamy ricotta, mozzarella and Italian charcuterie, and Lancaster Farm Fresh Co-op brings in fresh fruits and veggies weekly. Made to order sandwiches like the spicy Thai tofu or the Italian caprese panini go down nicely with a Boylan’s Creamy Red Birch Beer. 4425 Baltimore Ave.
Across the street, Roost, a popular chicken place also owned by Baum-Stein, cooks up roasted or fried birds from Grigg’s Town Farm. 4529 Springfield Ave.
From there it’s a pleasant stroll to The Clark Park Market run by The Food Trust. Open Thursdays from 3-7p.m. and Saturdays from 10-2p.m. Home baked peanut butter or chocolate whoopee pies share space with glistening berries and heirloom vegetables. On Thursdays the Guapos Tacos food truck sells duck, pork or vegetarian tacos topped with guacamole and cotija cheese for a leisurely lunch in the park. 43rd St. and Baltimore Ave.
DINING ON LOCAL
 The communal dining table at Fork - Photo Credit Jordan Wright
The nightly communal table at cookbook author Ellin Yin’s Fork in the bustling Old City, is where chef Terence Feury’s New American bistro cooking might feature the daily catch. Feury, named Philadelphia’s “Best Chef 2010” prepared us a whole wild striped bass with local vegetables. Serious anglers can take his guided fishing trips once a month to catch their own and learn how to prepare it. 305 Market St.
MidAtlantic Restaurant and Tap Room, in the University City area is where this hip destination resto serves its reinvented local dishes in a rustic slash modern decor. Chef Daniel Stern, former top toque at Le Bec-Fin, shows off the Pennsylvania Dutch influence with in-house made charcuterie served with exceptional raw cow’s milk cheeses from Chester County’s Birchrun Hills Farm. Order the Welsh rarebit fondue, perfect for dunking Stern’s version of the Philly hot pretzel, or the crab scrapple with pepper jelly and horseradish emulsion. A rich malted milk chocolate mousse cake is the capper. 3711 Market St.
 The Mint Julep at Franklin Mortgage and Investment Company - Photo Credit Jordan Wright The stylishly dark and intimate Franklin Mortgage & Investment Company doesn’t make loans in this former speakeasy, but it does make exquisite classic cocktails using a Kold-Draft icemaker for perfectly square cubes. Go for the ‘Serious Misgivings’ Punch – by the cup or bowl – suitable for sharing with fellow connoisseurs; or the ‘Blonde Redhead’ made with cognac, raspberry syrup rosewater and champagne. Mint juleps appear in a proper silver julep cup, and a concoction called ‘Queen Bitch’, uses Guyanese rum tricked up with Cocchi Americano, Genever gin, blanc vermouth and absinthe. 112 So. 18th St.
 JG Domestic - Photo Credit Jordan Wright Tucked into the atrium of the Cira Centre building is the raw wood farmhouse decor of Iron Chef Jose Garces’ restaurant JG Domestic. The design translates into a distinctive juxtaposition to the ultra-contemporary Cesar Pelli-designed skyscraper. The authentic Americana style, replete with trees and a wall of herbs and greenery, is a harbinger of farm-to-fork cuisine. Think of it as the East Coast’s version of the French Laundry. Begin with Iowa popcorn or hickory smoked Georgia pecans. Continue with cocktails like the Zephyr, made with gin, cucumber, orange cordial. The dinner menu features a section called “Tonight” with “Whole Animal” defining a dish crafted by using a farm raised animal in its entirety such as roast suckling Pennsylvania lamb, roasted leg and shoulder, crispy confit ribs and braised belly; or the indelibly memorable roast chicken. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner is adjacent to Amtrak’s 30th Street Station. 2929 Arch St.
URBAN GARDENING
 Volunteers from PHS with Tai Chi class - Photo credit Jordan Wright The Pennsylvania Horticultural Society has rescued a scraggy lot at 20th and Market Streets in Center City converting it into a temporary paradise of raised-bed gardens featuring educational workshops for inner city kids. Situated beside Blue Cross Blue Shield’s headquarters the animal topiaries recycled from their famed annual Philadelphia Flower Show put this garden in a special category and reflect a kid-friendly design dynamic. Tai Chi classes and nighttime film screenings share space with arugula and heirloom tomatoes. The program donates veggies to local restaurants to create signature dishes. Proceeds from the sales of these dishes go to City Harvest, to distribute to the city’s food cupboards.
 Marathon Farm - Photo Credit Jordan Wright It takes more than guts to plant a garden in a sketchy down-at-the-heels neighborhood, it takes drive and sweat equity. This spring Patrick Dunn, formerly of the Emerald Street Urban Farm Project, commandeered the space in the Brewerytown neighborhood to raise crops and keep bees for Marathon’s multiple restaurants. A pop-up weekend farmers market caters to the locals. You can keep track of their efforts at www.marathonfarm.com; 27th and Master Sts.
 Greensgrow Farm - Photo Credit Jordan Wright In the Kensington section of Philadelphia the laidback vibe at Greensgrow Farm is courtesy of senior citizen and visionary, Mary Seton Corboy. Founder of the Neighborhood Urban Agriculture Coalition, the pixieish former DC resident, along with a battalion of volunteers, found a vacant lot, like the proverbial phoenix emerging from the ashes, created a California-hip organic gardens plus CSA, nursery and educational workshop. The engaging former political scientist turned farmer, is usually found on site dispensing savvy gardening tips to urban gardeners. 2501 East Cumberland St.; www.greensgrow.org.
LOCAL SUDS
 Philadelphia Brewing Company - Photo Credit Jordan Wright At the Philadelphia Brewing Company, housed in the 19th C former Weisbrod & Hess Brewery company, enjoy a tour and taste of their Philly-named beers, like Walt Wit, an unfiltered Belgian White-style ale; Harvest from the Hood; and Kensinger, a smooth golden ale. Named one of the nation’s top five sustainable breweries because they grow their own hops, some from an on-site courtyard garden where you’ll also spot a pedal-powered ‘spaceship’, last year’s entry in the Kinetic Sculpture Derby at the annual East Kensington Arts Fest parade. 2423-2439 Amber St.
STROKING YOUR ECO
 Terrain at Styer’s cafe - Photo Credit Jordan Wright
A few miles out of town in Glen Mills, the high end emporium Terrain at Styer’s is a must visit. The stunning store and garden center, brimming with natural spa products, garden furnishings and hand-carved kitchenware, also houses an adorable café. Dine on local seasonal delights such as Kennett Square mushroom skillet with fried egg, or cold minty pea soup in a rustic greenhouse dripping with baskets of fuschia and stag horn ferns. 914 Baltimore Pike; www.styers.shopterrain.com
GETTING THERE
Via Amtrak from Union Station to the Philadelphia’s 30th Street Station is less than 2 hours and around $50.00 each way. By car it’s a straight shot on I-95 to the Center City exit.
Jordan Wright
August 2011
Special to Washingtonian Magazine
Solomons Island – A waterside village with hidden treasures.
 Annmarie Sculpture Garden and Arts Center - Photo Credit Jordan Wright  Bronze sculpture at Annmarie Sculpture Garden & Arts Center - Photo Credit Jordan Wright The Scene
Where the Patuxent River meets the Chesapeake Bay sits the village of Solomons Island. The former shipbuilding community has a boardwalk and piers for strolling, antiques shops and art galleries, and bars and restaurants for every taste and a boutique winery to seal the deal.
What to See and Do
Butterflies flit merrily through the border gardens where art and nature coexist at the Annmarie Sculpture Garden & Arts Center. Wend your way along sun-dappled paths to see dramatic bronze and steel sculptures – courtesy of a
 Fairy house  Gnome house partnership with the Smithsonian – displayed throughout the park’s lush 30 acres. A current exhibit, “Fairies in the Garden”, features artists’ fantasies of fairy and gnome houses nestled sweetly in the mossy hollows of trees. Inside the center there’s a small café and works by local artists.
For a day on the water, Bunky’s Charter Boats rents Carolina skiffs and offers fishing excursions; Sail Solomons has 22-foot Catalina capris. Or go to the Patuxent Adventure Center for kayak, canoe and Stand Up Paddleboard rentals.
Where to Eat
 Kim's Key Lime Pies - Photo Credit Jordan Wright Kim’s Key Lime Pie has creative cuisine and sublime pies in a café-like ambience. Across the road Stoney’s Seafood House, famous for its fresh fish and crab cakes, sits on Solomons Pier with beautiful views of the river.
Speed Dial
Annmarie Sculpture Garden & Arts Center, 13480 Dowell Road, Dowell, MD; 410-326-4640. Pet friendly and fully accessible. www.annmariegarden.org.
Bunky’s Charter Boats, 14448 Solomons Island Rd. S.; 410-326-3241 www.bunkyscharterboats.com. Sail Solomons Sailing School and Yacht Charters, 225 Alexander La.; 410-326-4917. www.sailsi.com Patuxent Adventure Center, 13860-C Solomons Island Rd.; 410-394-2770. www.paxadventure.com.
Kim’s Key Lime Pie, 14618 Solomons Island Road S., Solomons Island, MD, 410-326-8469. Stoney’s Seafood House, 1442 Solomons Island Road S., Solomons Island, MD, 410-326-2424
Jordan Wright
August 2011
Special to Washingtonian Magazine
River Riders
408 Alstadts Hill Rd., Harpers Ferry, WVA; 800-326-7238; www.riverriders.com
 Zipline tower at River Riders, Harpers Ferry - Photo Credit Jordan Wright Harpers Ferry offers lots of outdoor family fun, from hiking to tubing to whitewater rafting. And now, just outside of town, the outfitter River Riders has unveiled its latest adventure: a spectacular zipline canopy tour along the Potomac River.
For three hours, you can fly through the forest and navigate jungle-style suspension bridges alongside breathtaking vistas of river and cliffs. Two guides accompany amateur aerialists to seven giant tower platforms. Try to spot the nest of the resident red-tailed hawk as you soar up to 70 feet. The gravity-defying tour ends in an exhilarating finale as you rappel down to solid ground. If you’ve got more time and energy, River Riders can also set you up on the water: Ply the flatwater in a canoe or kayak, drift in a giant tube, or take on the Class III rapids on a whitewater trip.
 A successful day! Bucket list just got shorter! Hungry? The on-site Front Porch Café, which serves burgers, hot dogs, and other snacks, is your best bet. If you explore Harpers Ferry’s historic district, slide into Scoops Ice Cream Café (173 Potomac St.; 304-535-6654) and get your chill fix with 16 flavors of house-made ice cream.
 Farm products at Stoneybrook Farm Market - Photo Credit Jordan Wright On the drive to Harpers Ferry or on the way back, you can stop in the tiny town of Hillsboro at Stoneybrook Organic Farm and Market (37091Charlestown Pike; 540-668-9067; www.stoneybrookfarm.org; closed Saturdays), which carries delicious sandwiches and salads, organic produce, artisanal cheeses, and other regional farm products. Get food to go or enjoy lunch on the flagstone patio overlooking the vegetable and flower gardens.
Jordan Wright
July 23, 2011
Special to The Alexandria Times
 L to R: Jacklyn Young as Penny, Christina Kidd as Amber, Shannon Kingett as Tracy, Christopher Harris as Edna - Photography by Doug Olmsted  The Council Kids: Meg Glassco, Reeny Eul, Jacob Wittenauer, Chris Rios - Photography by Doug Olmsted Could a down-low Baltimore gore-obsessed gay filmmaker, thrown out of film school for smoking dope, carve a campy classic out of a cross-dressing trash-talking 350-pound trailer park transvestite named DIvine? You betcha, Hon! When art house cinematographer John Waters made Hairspray, the 1988 comedy film with Sonny Bono, Ricki Lake, Debbie Harry, and ohmygod little Pia Zadora, he was a far cry from mainstream culture. Fast forward to the Tony Awards in 2003 when Hairspray the musical wins for Best Book of a Musical, Best Direction, Best Original Score and Best Performance for Harvey Fierstein.
The switch from screenplay to stage production was remarkably successful given its unconventional characters. But what’s not to love about a stubborn, star-struck teen who against all odds pursues her dreams, an adoring father who supports his family by selling exploding cigars from his Har-de-Har Hut joke shop, and a steam iron-compulsive mother with a heart of gold, who’s the polar opposite of June Cleaver.
With original music by Marc Shaiman and lyrics by Scott Wittman the story takes us back to segregated 1950’s Baltimore, where weight-challenged teenybopper Tracy Turnblad, prays for the day she can get on television’s Corny Collins Show, a local American Bandstand-clone Waters based on the original real-life Buddy Deane Show. Together with galpal, Penny Pingleton, they swoon and squeal for the handsome crooner and cool daddy-o, Link Larkin, and dream the impossible dream of the day they can shake and shimmy on the show. But Tracy is no average teen, she’s confident, determined and socially aware, and through her efforts to get black and white kids to dance together on the show, “It’s so Afro-tastic! “she declares, she becomes the accidental integrationist.
In this production, one of the cheeriest, most heartfelt, rip-roaring musical productions ever to hit The Little Theatre of Alexandria, Director Sue Pinkman, has brought her acting knowledge and directing skills together to forge a solid cast of 30 singer/dancer/actors into a tightly-hewn, energetic, leap-out-of-your-seat musical.
 Mark Williams as Harriman F. Spritzer, Gardner Reed as Corny Collins, Janette Moman as Velma Von Tussle - Photography by Doug Olmsted  Shannon Kingett as Tracey; Christopher Harris as Edna - Photography by Doug Olmsted Choreographer Ivan Davila’s makes his own magic on the theatre’s modest stage with the exceptional challenge of smoothly arranging everyone in sync and on target for some terrific dancing – in one number 20 hoofers are on stage groovin’ to “The Madison” in Pinky’s Hefty Hideway, a shop for the weight-challenged and in the case of Mr. Pinky (Scott J. Strasbaugh) vertically-challenged too.
Seventeen musical numbers, a crack off-stage eight-piece band, plus saucy reprises from red hot mama Velma Von Tussle (Janette Moman) vamping her theme song “Miss Baltimore Crabs”, gives ample opportunity to give all the performers a chance to shine. But how to single any one performer out of this stellar group when they all aced the test? Below are a few standouts.
Shannon Kingett is Tracy Turnblad, or is it the other way round? The young actress positively exhales Tracy – adorable, irrepressible and feisty. Watch her turn the beat around from the first note of “Good Morning Baltimore”.
Gardner Reed as Corny Collins masterfully portraying the beloved bebop host-with-a-heart.
Christopher Harris as Edna Turnblad (Divine’s original role) with glorious timing and sly humor. “Pour me a teeny weeny triple.” A perfect coupling with Larry Grey as hubby Wilbur Turnblad, their two-step duet, “You’re Timeless to Me”, proves opposites really do attract.
Adrian Cubbage playing the color-line breaking hipster Seaweed J. Stubbs with a deliciously sweet soulfulness to his voice in “Run and Tell That”, convincing Penny “the blacker the berry, the sweeter the juice.”
 Brenda Parker as Motormouth Maybelle, with Zaria Stott as Shayna - Photography by Doug Olmsted Brenda Parker as the rhyming Maybelle, “We can’t get lazy when things get crazy,” she tells the teens. The savvy owner of Motormouth Records Shop, she will rip your heart out while you hold back the tears, in her powerful rendition of “I Know Where I’ve Been”.
Gina Tomkus ably handling four, yes four! parts as the scene-stealing geeky gym teacher, one of the chorus of Pinkettes, Penny’s dowdy overbearing mother, Prudy Pingleton, and the sexy leather-clad, whip-snapping prison matron. How is this possible?
The whole Motormouth Gang, “If we get anymore white people in here it’s gonna be a suburb!” And little Derrick “Blake” Hopkins Jr. as Stooie, who snags the most timely line of the night with his flip response to Tracy’s “Where do you go after Special Ed?” “Congress!” he wisely quips.
A tremendously talented cast all around in a huge hit for The Little Theatre. Does Tracy get her man? Is her hair high enough? Does she win the title of Miss Teenage Hairspray? What do you think, Hon?
At The Little Theatre of Alexandria, 600 Wolfe Street, through August 13th. For tickets and information call 703 683-5778 or visit www.thelittletheatre.com.
Jordan Wright
June 30, 2011
Special to The Washington Examiner
 Dromoland Castle Golf and Spa Resort is a short drive from Shannon Airport in southwest Ireland
 The Cliffs of Moher - photo credit Jordan Wright  Harpist on the Cliffs of Moher - photo credit Jordan
The lush terrain crisscrossing Ireland could break your heart with its raw beauty. In a landscape where bright yellow hedges of wild gorse mingle with the snowy blossoms of the blackthorn and thousands of kilometers of centuries-old stone walls delineate emerald green fields, black-faced sheep and honey-hued dairy cows graze languorously beneath an impossibly blue sky. For the traveler along the southern and western edge of the country in the counties of Cork, Limerick and Clare it is soul stirring.
From Shannon Airport in County Clare, we are just a few miles from our arrival at the lavish Dromoland Castle Golf and Spa Resort. Built in the 5thC by the O’Brien family, descendants of the High King of Ireland, Brian Boru, the turreted castle overlooks its own golf course and falconry school on 375 acres offering grand suites decorated in elegant country style and a wealth of sporting activities like fishing, clay shooting and horseback riding. Refined seasonally driven cuisine, helmed by noted chef David McCann, is reflected by roasted saddle of rabbit with leeks, clams and wild mushrooms in corn broth, filet of beef with a claret sauce, and chocolate coconut cream torte with red berry sauce.
 The gardens at Dromoland Castle - photo credit Jordan Wright  The falconer at Dromoland Castle - photo credit Jordan Wright From the castle it’s an easy drive to the limestone Cliffs of Moher on the southwest coast where guillemots and puffins frolic in Galway Bay beneath the shadow of O’Brien’s Tower. In the distance the Aran Islands, a much-visited area noted for Irish music and thatched roof buildings dating from the mid 1400’s, are reachable by ferry from the nearby town of Doolin.
South of Ballyvaughan, lunch is at Gregan’s Castle Hotel, a lovely Georgian-style manor house, where you can park your wellies by the door for a bite of local steamed lobster or the delicious Burren lamb. Expert local botanist, Tony Kirby, is there to escort us to The Burren National Park, and the iconic Poulnabrone Dolmen Monument. The preserve is a beautifully desolate glacial karst of 98,000 acres filled with over 70% of Ireland’s native plants.
Throughout the countryside of this Neolithic land, are over 30,000 ‘ringforts’ and ancient stone monuments that speak of a civilization conceived before the pyramids of Egypt. Conquered in turns by Celts, Gaels, Vikings, Visigoths and Normans, tribes built these ‘ringforts’ or ‘raths’. But were they used for faeries or farmers? Forts or sites for pagan mating rituals? No matter. The myths and mysteries, where Christian abbeys coexist with medieval castles and two million-year old subterranean rivers and caves, beckon the explorer.
 The salad course of asparagus and morels at The K Club - photo credit Jordan Wright  Local oysters at the Farm Gate Cafe in Cork - photo credit Jordan Wright A trip to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, built in 1425, offers a glimpse of “knight” life. Stroll through the restored village to reach the castle keep where period-costumed lords and ladies invite you to make merry with a bawdy madrigal concert and medieval banquet in the great dining hall. Traditional fare includes mead, braised beef and raspberry fool.
The following day we arrive through the magnificent gates of the luxurious 19thC Castlemartyr Resort. This extraordinary country estate, once owned by Sir Walter Raleigh, sits on 220 pastoral acres and has an 800-year old castle ruins that was once home to the Knights Templar. A pair of perfectly matched Kerry bog ponies-with-cart trots us around the gardens before cocktails in the clubby Knight’s Bar. On the veranda a black-and-white themed wedding of stunning young royals plays out before we segué into the dining room for a sumptuous six-course dinner of Ballycotton prawns with artichoke puree and truffles, ballantine of foie gras, sea bass with coastal mussels and chervil, and Hereford beef with a potato terrine and carrot fondant.
Morning brings us to Cork to visit the famed English Market, a food emporium chock-a-block with local fish, meats and farm products. Upstairs at Farmgate Café we lunch on Atlantic oysters, grilled lemon sole and rhubarb fool paired with a crisp Verdicchio from the Le Marche region.
 Kerry Bog ponies at Castlemartyr - photo credit Jordan Wright Traveling along the Celtic Sea we reach the quaint fishing village of Cobh. Home to the Royal Cork Yacht Club, it served as the final departure point for the RMS Titanic’s ill-fated maiden voyage. From the town’s quay we set out on a bracing sea safari in a 12-seat RIB boat past Spike Island. On the way to Kinsale we watch grey seals and bottlenose dolphins cavorting in the calm waters beneath the soaring cliffs.
 The lighthouse at Old Head Golf Links - photo credit Jordan Wright Perched above the Atlantic Ocean is the Old Head Golf Links, where duffers like Tiger Woods and Jack Nicholson summon the golf gods. We enjoy a casual lunch of cod and chips on the outdoor patio of the Lusitania Bar where if you’re lucky you’ll see one of 15 species of whales. The tony club has recently added contemporary-designed suites and a spa for overnight guests.
Back at Castlemartyr a massage and facial before a short walk into the village of Straffan to Pat Shortt’s Pub for a farm-style dinner while enjoying a rollicking evening of traditional Irish folk music. A fish chowder of ling, haddock and salmon, beef braised in Beamish stout, and apple rhubarb crumble accompany pints of Black and Tans, made with half Guinness stout and half Smithwick’s ale.
 The K Club's ghillie - photo credit Jordan Wright A mid-morning stop at the old Jameson Distillery, then on to The K Club, a 19th C Georgian manor along the Liffey River. The drive takes us past the Galtee Mountains and through ‘The Golden Vale’ where the counties of Limerick, Tipperary and Cork meet. Sporting two 18-hole Arnold Palmer designed courses, The Kildare Hotel Spa and Country Club, as it is otherwise known, is home to the Ryder Cup and a favorite haunt of US Presidents and rock stars. Tea, scones and watercress finger sandwiches followed by a sampling of Ireland’s most exquisite cheeses – creamy St. Killian, tangy Cashel Blue, wonderfully lemony Cratloe Hills and the earthy Milleens.
Out on the green a challenging fly fishing lesson with the estate’s ghillie precedes a tour of the hotel’s museum-quality collection of paintings, tapestries and sculptures (Of historical note – a framed signing of the Belfast Agreement which took place here). Then off for a massage and dip in the indoor pool.
The evening’s adventure beckons as we wend our way down a narrow hidden stairwell to find a world-class wine collection in the castle’s cellar. Sipping champagne and nibbling on salmon canapés by candlelight, we gasp discreetly over rooms filled floor-to-ceiling with extraordinary vintages, Pomerol, Montrachet, Petrus, Medoc and Champagne, some dating back to the 1920’s.
At dinner Chef Finbar Higgins, and his staff of 18 Michelin-star graduates signal serious dining in the private Pantheon Suite with luscious langoustines, oysters topped with citrus foam and a risotto strewn with morels.
 Jeremy and stable boy at The National Stud - photo by Jordan Wright Daybreak brings the fifth straight day of sunshine and we’re off to Tully in County Kildare and the Irish National Stud to visit the Horse Museum, Japanese Gardens and stables of priceless breeding stallions. It was a premier stop for Queen Elizabeth on her recent royal tour of Ireland.
We head for Dublin and begin with a tour of the historic Guinness Storehouse, where they are currently celebrating 252years of brewing beer. We learn that Guinness sells a staggering 10 million glasses every day in over 150 countries around the world. A top-notch lunch of Irish mussels in Guinness cream, Irish beef Stew and chocolate mousse topped with red currants is prepared for us by chef Justin O’Connor in the private Rainsford Room. On site are two public restaurants, The Brewer’s Dining Hall and The Gilroy Restaurant and The Gravity Bar 144 feet up affording spectacular views of Dublin.
 Pimm's cup before dinner at The Fitzwilliam Hotel - photo credit Jordan Wright Arrive at The Fitzwilliam Hotel, a super-glam contemporary hotel across from the tranquil gardens of St. Stephen’s Green and a stone’s throw from the best shops on Grafton Street.
Pimm’s Cup served in the penthouse garden before strolling over to the ornate yet very hip The Cliff House Townhouse, a beautifully restored Georgian period hotel and restaurant. East Coast potted monkfish, braised Fermanagh lamb with confit shoulder and garlic sauce, chocolate tart with candied orange and petit fours.
After breakfast in bed we walk to St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Trinity College to see The Book of Kells, dropping in at the Queen of Hearts, a perfectly adorable tea shop, to gather up some lemon scones and apple crumble.
Lunch at the Avoca Café, a charming upscale general store cum food hall with a rooftop garden restaurant and eight cookbooks to its name. Chunky ‘chips’ cooked in duck fat, a coconut-crusted sea bream tempura with nam jim sauce, and apple crumble.
 Sweets at the Queen of Hearts - photo credit Jordan  Jam session in St. Stephen's Green - photo credit Jordan Wright City sightseeing by double-decker bus and back to The Fitzwilliam for an imaginative dinner prepared by famed Irish chef, Kevin Thornton, whose Michelin-starred restaurant, Thornton’s, is in the hotel. Dublin Bay prawns with prawn bisque and sabayon, Bere Island scallops with truffle mousse, noisette of Sikka deer with potato gnocchi and Valrhona chocolate sauce, and lemon tart with cassis sorbet. Beautiful ingredients exquisitely prepared.
Sadly we catch our flight back to the States at the crack of dawn, treasuring our memories of the rugged Atlantic coast, green-canopied roads and baronial castles beside picturesque farms, of tiny villages and the cosmopolitan city of Dublin.
Still in our thoughts are the hearty breakfasts, redolent of thick-cut bacon and homemade sausages, house-cured salmon served on hearty brown bread smeared with sweet butter, poached eggs with marigold-hued centers and glass pots of fresh yoghurt. Today’s modern Irish chefs have launched the ‘new’ Irish cuisine and that radical culinary shift is the country’s most recent appeal.
For a guided tour of The Burren. www.heartofburrenwalks.com
For the sea safari. www.safari.ie
For more information on Ireland visit www.tourismireland.com
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