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Jordan Wright
June 22, 2015
A Dreamy Summer Pop-Up Supper, Strawberries Rule at Delaplane’s Annual Festival, Fueling Up at The French Hound, Healthful Eats at Brassicas, Patrick O’Connell Launches Latest Book at Willowsford
 Ryan (left) and Shelly Ross gather with guests Ryan Ross, daughter of Shelly Ross, owner of The Natural Marketplace, is already a successful chef and entrepreneur from Washington State. For a recent al fresco dinner in the charming garden of her mother’s home in Warrenton, Virginia, Ryan created a fairyland of delights tempting guests with house-crafted aperitifs – Bengal Spice, a mixture of peach and plum teas with bourbon, and Coconut Chai a non-alcoholic summer cooler. Cocktail nibbles, adorned with tiny flowers or aromatic herbs, were equally a alluring.
 Deconstructed Deviled Eggs – Fleur de Chèvre covered in edible flowers – Beetroot Crostini with flowers and microgreens Deconstructed deviled eggs sported nasturtium aioli, purple chive flowers and dill. Beetroot crostini incorporated chickpeas topped with micro greens and bright yellow mustard flowers. Dates were stuffed with blue cheese, topped with redbud flowers, poppy seeds and drizzles of aged honey, and small rounds of Fleur de Chevre goat cheese were covered in yellow and purple violets and flecked with pink salt.
 Minted Pea Soup – Dates stuffed with blue cheese and decorated with Redbud flowers A minted pea soup with crème fraiche and bacon shards preceded a tender-crusted cauliflower tart made with gruyére from Goat Hill Farms. Then platters piled high with chimichurri-sauced grilled beef and Satsumi oranges topped with marigold butter, roasted vegetables and cucumber and radish salad were presented.
 Grilled beef chimichurri with Satsumi oranges and summer vegetables – Rose and Rhubarb Torte Wine flowed freely as chatter grew friendlier and I had the chance to speak with my seatmate, John Burns, urbane owner of Goat Hill Farm, in Little Washington, VA. Burns’ farm supplied the flowers and many of the early summer vegetables for the delicious dinner including fruits used in desserts. Finally Rose and Rhubarb Torte served with strawberries and buttermilk and a flourless chocolate cake titled ‘Fallen Earth’ appeared the latter served with a syrup made of whiskey, blackberries and violet cassis.
Ryan, who has inherited her mother’s beauty, cool demeanor and love of food, also shares her dedication to healthy eating and locally sourced food. She divides her time and talents bicoastly creating dinner parties in such unique locations as a butcher shop in Brooklyn, a blueberry farm, old barns, an empty swimming pool and even a tattoo parlor – though most events are held in private homes.
She calls her business Supper Corps and it has taken her far and wide. Follow her adventures and upcoming dinner events (she’ll be back in our area in Fall) on Instagram at En.Root or on Facebook by liking Supper Corps. You can contact her by email to create your own special event. And though west coast based, she often flies back to our area, which she considers her home.
Delaplane Strawberry Festival
 The “Head Strawberries” For the past twenty-some years I’ve wanted to go to the festival that local resident Willard Scott started with his wife, Mary. Willard was, and is, an American national treasure who created the festival as a fundraiser for the Delaplane Emmanuel Episcopal Church’s efforts on behalf of area non-profits. While still keeping to its homespun roots, it has since grown into an annual event that celebrates the arrival of strawberry season.
 A serving of Strawberry Shortcake one of the many delights of the festival The entire production depends on the efforts of church ladies known as the “Head Strawberries” (if there are men involved in food preparation please write me for a correction) who start preparing months in advance.
 The spirited Corn Hole Tournament toss gets underway More akin to a large church picnic, the two-day event now attracts over 10,000 guests with old-fashioned children’s games like ring toss, tug-of-war, cake walk, 3-legged races and sack hops – – and tons of luscious strawberries. Factoid: Over 6,000 pints of strawberries are used in the making of sundaes, shakes, cakes and jams, with many flats sold for home canning.
 George Esparza and his Wahoo Medicine Show Docents dressed in Civil War garb roam the grounds and a snake oil salesman (George Esparza) with his Wahoo Medicine Show & Phydeaux’s Flying Flea Circus captivates families. A top-hatted gent (Jerry Brown) with guitar, squeeze box and a trained monkey named Django had kids utterly mesmerized.
 Jerry Brown and Django encourage participation – Re-enactors Gerald Drake with his wife, Donna pose against one of the log houses – Bob Broadwater as a Two-Star Civil War General takes a break Dogs perform tricks, ponies give rides, and crafters display hundreds of their wares, all while Old-time music rings out from the stage beside historic Mt. Bleak House which is open to visitors.
 The Cobbler Mountain Grass band tunes up on the porch of Mt. Bleak House The festival is always on Memorial Day weekend and always at the beautiful Sky Meadows State Park. See you there next year! For more events at the park visit http://www.dcr.virginia.gov/state-parks/sky-meadows.shtml#general_information
The French Hound in Middleburg, VA
 Co-Owner Cricket MacDonald guests at The French Hound A last minute decision to dine at The French Hound on a Saturday night on Memorial Day weekend was rash, I’ll admit. With no reservations and coming in off a hike on a steamy afternoon with disheveled hair and feet in flip flops our chances might have been slim. We’d managed a quick change in the Hill School parking lot (one hopes there are no security cameras) where we ran into a fellow hiker seconds later who said he was just getting over a heart attack and was glad he’d missed us en déshabillé.
 The bar at sundown at The French Hound in Middleburg The entrance to the restaurant is through a walled garden, which on this night was filled with diners. A hostess, who later introduced herself as one of the owners, politely escorted us to the only seats not taken – – at the wood-topped bar. Late day sunlight streamed through weathered windowpanes casting the cozy room in a honeyed glow. It was that easy time of day, when all accomplishments are totted up and concerns are laid to rest before the sun sets. Thankfully the barkeep promised we’d have the full menu to choose from.
Nine years ago owners John and Cricket MacDonald discovered the old house, which had already gone through a few restaurant reincarnations, and along with French-trained Chef John-Gustin Birkett they opened the French-inspired bistro. They have been a success from the start.
Birkett’s menu reflects a distinctly French flair that leans towards Mediterranean and Moroccan. With a décor that evokes Provence, it’s definitely a relaxed ambiance that appeals to the fine dining crowd as well as the casual diner.
 Pot au Feu – Moroccan Lamb Tagine prepared tableside – Vanilla and Grand Marnier Pot de Creme at The French Hound Here you’ll find escargots, mussels steamed with Pernod, house made terrines and other typical Gallic fare – – steak frites, pan-seared halibut and herb-roasted chicken. Wines are predominantly French or California with a brief nod to a Spanish albarino and a rioja and a few nicely curated selections from local Virginia wineries.
At 101 South Madison Street, Middleburg, VA 20117. For reservations call 540 687-3018.
Brassicas Market and Cafe
 Brassicas on opening day The banner read “Grand Opening” and it didn’t a minute to check my rearview mirror, apply the brakes and slide into a parking spot. When I’m not on a tight schedule I allow myself regular whimsical indulgences, which is how I found myself in the old clapboard farmhouse – – a former vintage clothing and antique shop in the center of Aldie. I say “center”, but that offhanded descriptor defies logic in a town with neither traffic lights nor stop signs.
 Owner Gary Hall takes customers’ orders Gary Hall is the Proprietor, Head Gardener and Executive Chef of Brassicas, a stylishly rustic, slip of a spot devoted to feeding its customers simple, healthful, seasonal fare. Perfectly positioned on John Mosby Highway (aka Route 50), it is sandwiched neatly between the Aldie United Methodist Church and the quaint Little Apple Pastry Shop.
 The early garden behind Brassicas What makes this little place so appealing is not just the tasty and creative offerings but where they are sourced – – primarily Hall’s backyard where a thriving quarter-acre garden provides the freshest herbs and vegetables used in the soups and sandwiches.
The garden was started two summers ago and is now going strong thanks to a few autumns of laying down compost, green sand, woodchips and chicken manure. The manure comes from Hall’s brood of forty chickens, mostly Rhode Island Reds with a few Rhode Island Sex-Links thrown onto the mix. “The Sex-Links are very prolific egg layers,” said Hall who rises at 6 a.m. to tend to the chickens and garden. The menu changes daily, not weekly, allowing him the freedom to use what’s freshest. “We want to be as natural and as transparent about our food as possible,” he explains.
To nurture his evolving garden, he has discovered some unique sources. Woodchips are free, courtesy of the county. Compost is provided by DC Water who offers bio-solids, free to area farmers. Chickens gobble up the restaurant’s food waste producing soil-enriching manure and keeping garbage to a minimum. And lastly, bugs are eaten by the free-ranging flock which, each day, produce up to thirty eggs used in the restaurant’s mayonnaise and egg salad. Now if that isn’t the circle of life!
“In summer the town’s water supply is low,” Hall told me. “Irrigation and washing cars is forbidden. On weekends the Aldie Mill dams up the headrace of the Little River for their milling demonstrations and we have permission from the town to pump water out. I got my hands on some 250 gallon plastic IVC totes that had been used for olive oil. They’re great for collecting water and bringing it to the garden.”
 Ricotta Salata with chive flowers drizzled with sage flower honey Brassicas light fare menu is influenced by the backyard garden’s bounty, and right now the garden’s bountiful crop of green beans, squash, tomatoes and peppers are the headliner ingredients on the chalkboard.
Serving breakfast and lunch this summer, he is still trying to decide if he will stay open throughout the winter when the garden is put to bed. But apart from the menu items you’ll find plenty of locally made foods perfect for a picnic lunch – – honey from Singer’s Glen; breads from Lyon’s Bakery; cookies from Pollystyle; cheeses from Firefly Farms, Allegheny Mountain, George’s Mill Farm and Mountain View Farm; and organic chocolate bars from Equal Exchange Chocolates.
Patrick O’Connell Hosts Latest Book Lunch at Willowsford
 Guests enjoy the delicious food and drink at Willowsford A tony gathering at Willowsford gave Patrick O’Connell the backdrop for a book signing last night. The nattily dressed proprietor of The Inn at Little Washington has finally spilled the beans with co-writer Derry Moore about the décor in a 256-page cocktail table-sized book entitled, The Inn at Little Washington: A Magnificent Obsession (Rizzoli 2015).
Now you too can replicate the singerie and madly chi-chi Brit style guests travel cross country to swoon over. British interior designer, Joyce Conwy Evans, collaborated with O’Connell to create the over-the-top elegance that put the Inn on everyone’s bucket list. “Joyce was with us for the whole ride,” the ever-gracious O’Connell told me.
 Patrick O’Connell with Bonnie Moore – Culinary Director Bonnie Moore cooks up the Mac n’ Cheese From a lowly garage to a to a five-star hotel and restaurant, the Inn’s transformation is expressed in gorgeous photographs by Derry Moore and Gordon Beall and watercolor renderings by Evans. Even Martha Stewart was a contributor.
 Rappahannock Oysters with Cucumber Sorbet – Mini crab cakes and cornflowers – Mustard Crusted Salmon and Dill Willowsford’s Chef and Culinary Director Bonnie Moore, who once cooked under O’Connell at the Inn, prepared some of his signature nibbles – – Rappahannock oysters with cucumber sorbet; mustard crusted salmon with mustard dill sauce; mushroom, asparagus and prosciutto pizza; and crab cakes with chipotle aioli. As expected, truffle popcorn, a staple at the Inn, was served in red-and-white striped boxes and a decadent version of mac n’ cheese was presented in tiny cast iron skillets.
 Mini Mac n’ Cheese share space with bound copies of Le Monde and L’Univers – Floral arrangements were by Mayflowers Photo credit – Jordan Wright
Jordan Wright
June 9, 2015
Special to The Alexandria Times
“Epic Bromance Upends Noted Family” might be the modern-day header for the tale of Tartuffe and Orgon, the paterfamilias of a 17th century, bourgeois family. Or it might read, “Priest and His Slimy Sidekicks Fake Poverty to Con Pernelle Clan – Maid Claims Teen Daughter Was Used as Barter”. I can’t resist one more. “Phony Preacher Tricks Prominent Businessman Who Nearly Loses His Entire Estate”.
 Suzanne Warmanen (Dorine), Lenne Klingaman (Mariane), Sofia Jean Gomez (Elmire), Gregory Linington (Cleante,) and ensemble members Stephanie Schmalzle, and Maria Leigh. Photo by Scott Suchman. In Molière’s timeless story of piety and politics the con artist, Tartuffe (aka “The Hypocrite”), brings down one of the town’s most prominent families with his fire and brimstone brand of religious fervor. As slick as a whistle, the devious flimflammer insinuates himself into the home and gullible heart of Orgon (Luverne Seifert), despite protestations from his household who see right through the hustle. “He has made me a new man without friendships or emotion,” Orgon boasts to his family, dismissing their pleadings and offering up his betrothed daughter, Mariane (Lenne Klingaman) as sacrificial lamb.
In the second year of the Shakespeare Theatre Company’s Comedie Française repertory series, Director Dominique Serrand has brought us a supremely elegant production of the play, one that is guaranteed to make your hair curl and your funny bone twitch. Serrano is also the Co-Scenic Designer with Tom Buderwitz, and the two have created a divinely muted set for the comic drama using as inspiration the symmetrical Palladian architecture of Paris’s Hôtel des Invalides, and the exterior design of the Église Saint-Gervais to evoke an aura of piety.
Lighting Director Marcus Dilliard uses the one-day timeline of the play by moving the lighting across the stage from east to west, coloring the set with the pale, cool light of day with rays of light pouring in through tall windows, and culminating in the honeyed amber tones of sunset. It is very effective and lends a compelling air of urgency to the family’s dire circumstances.
 Sofia Jean Gomez (Elmire) and Steven Epp (Tartuffe). Photo by Scott Suchman. Steven Epp plays the convincingly, deceitful Tartuffe. With his tight-as-a-drum body and spare priestly garments, he looks like an Anderson Cooper version of a Calvin Klein model recently sprung from a torture chamber. Epp’s riveting portrayal of the holier-than-thou, priest-without-a-conscience is enhanced by his ability to quickly morph from insinuating charmer, who proves his devotion through self-flagellations and submissive prostrations, to backstabbing villain. Seifert, as the duped husband and father Orgon, in thrall to the machinations of Tartuffe, gives a commanding performance infused with bluster and swagger.
 Luverne Seifert (Orgon) and Sofia Jean Gomez (Elmire). Photo by Scott Suchman. But amidst all the guile and terror inflicted on the family by Tartuffe, let us not forget what a card and social commentator Molière is. The circumstances he devises are as dark as the comedy is light – – and Suzanne Warmanen as Dorine, the wise and sassy servant, renders it brilliantly. When accused of defaming God by using a handkerchief as a bookmark between the pages of Elmire’s bible, Dorine replies, “If a handkerchief can insult God, God needs more confidence!” Oh yes! She has his sanctimonious number straight out of heaven’s gate.
Elmire (Sofia Jean Gomez), the clever wife of Orgon, has her own way of handling the impostor. In one sexually charged scene designed to prove to her husband that Tartuffe is nothing more than a fraud, she calculates an elaborate seduction to which Orgon is witness. Gomez is electrifying bringing both fire and ice to the character of Elmire.
Not to be ignored are Tartuffe’s henchmen led by Laurent (Nathan Keepers). The duo lends a deliciously evil air to the entire proceedings, lurking around corners and perching above the action, all the better to eavesdrop or threaten.
Sonya Berlovitz informs the costuming with a freshly, spare modernity by eliminating the distractions of heavily ornate brocades and embellishments and creating clothing that takes on meaning and symbolism, at the same time reflecting hilarity (as in Valere’s floral pajamas), solemnity (Orgon’s newly adopted priestly raiments and the plain, grey garments of Tartuffe) and social import (Elmire’s lavish blue gown and billowy red silk robe). The result lends more power to the story and drama to the players.
Highly recommended.
Through July 5th at the Shakespeare Theatre Company’s Sidney Harman Hall at 610 F Street, NW, Washington, DC 20004. For tickets and information contact the box office at 202 547-1122 or visit www.ShakespeareTheatre.org.
Jordan Wright
June 8, 2015
Special to The Alexandria Times
 Alexandria Guyker (Jo) & Daniel Doeuk – Photos by Matt Liptak It took more than fluff and fizz to create an icon like Mae West. An iconoclast in the art of sex appeal (even the term was taboo when she started performing on the vaudeville circuit in 1911), West was the naughtiest of the naughty girls, a role she cherished and perfected throughout her lengthy career.
Jennifer Lyman directs Claudia Shear’s Tony-nominated story about an impressionable young fan, Charlie (Daniel J. Calderon), who becomes deeply affected by his meetings with the seductive actress. She teases and woos him and they develop an ongoing, though unconsummated, affinity for each other. As an adult he meets and is attracted to, Jo (Alexandra Guyker), another adoring Mae West fan, but his obsession with the movie star affects his ability to have more than a superficial relationship.
 Alexandria Guyker (Jo) – Photos by Matt Liptak Janette Moman plays the voluptuous siren, breathing new life into the legend that drove Hollywood’s glamour machine for decades. Moman’s voice and movements mimic the star’s singular appeal, and her ability to portray her vulnerability, as well as her sexuality, contributes to a convincing performance.
 Janette Moman (Mae West) & Chris Gillespie – Photos by Matt Liptak Two consummate actors, Chris Gillespie and Daniel Doeuk, play all the other males that weave in and out of Mae’s life – – her husband, Frank Wallace, co-stars, assorted agents, beaus, dance partners and a judge and court clerk. Set primarily in New York and Los Angeles from 1911 to 1984, the show features seven of West’s greatest musical numbers including “I’m No Angel”, “Oh My, How We Posé”, “A Guy What Takes His Time” from She Done Him Wrong, and “Dirty Blonde” from her Vegas act in the late 1990’s.
West broke every convention of the day with her racy behavior and scandalous stunts, and the show is as informative of her history as it is entertaining, often weaving her famous quotes into the dialogue. “Are you shakin’ my hand or takin’ my pulse,” she asks a potential backer. Later we learn she borrowed femininity advice from her fellow performers, a close-knit group of drag queens. She also appropriated the “Shimmy She Wobble” from Black acts of the day.
 Daniel J. Calderon (Charlie) – Photos by Matt Liptak Mae’s story runs alongside the tale of Charlie and Jo, their tender friendship and mutual admiration of Mae, and his inability to free himself of his fixation with Mae long enough to let real love into his life. “She never really let herself learn to love anyone but herself,” Charlie tells Jo. Calderon captures Charlie’s transformation from awkward youth to awkward adulthood, and Guyker proves to be the perfectly cast matchup. Complex emotional themes weave in and out of the jokes and the cast rises to the challenge. Plus the production has a lot to recommend.
Costumes by Beverley Benda, Wardrobe by Jean Coyle, and fabulous hair and wigs by Rebecca Harris capture the decades of glamorous gowns, platinum blonde bouffant styles, and mountains of feathered accessories. David Dender on piano and David Burrelli on bass bring the story and songs to life.
As far as the staging goes, I found it distracting to watch props handed off to the actors as they delivered their lines, and furnishings being shuffled on and off stage by clearly, visible stagehands. Something you might expect in a black box production, but here, unnecessary.
Through June 27th at The Little Theatre of Alexandria, 600 Wolfe Street. For tickets and information call the box office at 703 683-0496 or visit www.thelittletheatre.com
Jordan Wright
June 7, 2015
Special to The Alexandria Times
 Dan & Jeff – Photos courtesy of Potted Potter Harry Potter fans went wild last night at Potted Potter – The Unauthorized Harry Experience – A Parody by Dan and Jeff. Daniel Clarkson and Jefferson Turner, the two writers slash performers in the show, raced through seven Potter books in 75 minutes proving that sidelines and details hardly matter when action is what kids crave. All in all they roasted, toasted and pilloried dozens of characters out of the 300 in J. K. Rowling’s World of Harry Potter to the roars of kids and grownups captivated by the series and its subsequent films.
The production is all very bare bones with stuffed animals subbing for dragons including a plush snake, pressed into service to act as Professor Snape, Master of Potions. As Dan likes to remind the audience, “There is no CGI in this show.” And no animatronics either.
There is even less in the way of scenery. A fake coffin, a wardrobe and a tropical travel poster compose the set that frames this duo of comic madmen. A brief appearance by two stuffed animals on a skateboard and a wooden choo-choo train that takes the place of the Kings Cross Station underground train of the Hogwart’s Express, are a few of the makeshift props.
 Dumbledore – Photos courtesy of Potted Potte Wigs and sorcerers’ hats telegraph the rapid morphing of characters as Dan and Jeff attempt to cover all the critical action from Voldemort and Rubeus Hagrid to Dumbledore and Mad-Eye Moody. Potter pals, Ron Weasley, appears in an orange afro wig and is referred to as the “Ginger Ninja”; and Hermione, depicted by Dan in Teutonic-inspired blond braids, are mere bit players in this madcap spoof.
Jeff appears to be the more reasonable of the two, often asking the attention-challenged Dan to beef up the plot’s interpretations with more sophisticated dramatic effects – – to which Dan replies, “I think we can all agree. The victim is the theatre.” An inside joke that escapes the young audience, as do references to Putin, Miley Cyrus, Georgetown Cupcake and Washington politics, which the adults gleefully relish.
 Two fluffy Warthogs – Photos courtesy of Potted Potter As you can well imagine, props are central to ascertaining the various characters and Dan and Jeff switch them out with increasing mayhem while dashing behind the wardrobe and psyching up the crowd with hopes of playing quidditch. The broomstick game, well known to fans, eventually comes to pass, albeit without brooms, along with an audience participation game of catch the Golden Snitch, endearingly enacted by two child volunteers who are over the moon to have parts in the show.
More silly and outlandish portrayals and spoofs are cleverly employed as the players zip through all seven books, from Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone to Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.
British Director Richard Hurst keeps the action in high gear as does Composer Phil Innes, who lends a touch of impending doom to the dramatic bits.
Recommended for all ages that value absurdity and ridiculousness.
Through June 21st at the Shakespeare Theatre Company’s Lansburgh Theatre 450 7th Street NW, Washington, DC 20004. For tickets and information contact the box office at 202 547-1122 or visit www.ShakespeareTheatre.org.
Jordan Wright
June 2, 2015
Sushi School; Dine-N-Dash in Penn Quarter; Fabulous Animals Art Exhibition at iCi Bistro; Kaz Okuchi, Bonny Wolf and Yoko Isassi at the National Museum of American History
Back to Class with the Master
It’s been two years since I sat down with Tokyo-born Daisuke Utagawa, owner of Daikaya and Partner and Creative Director of Sushiko. Our last dinner was a lesson in izakaya a style of Japanese cooking that I wrote about then and that you’ll find at Daikaya.
 Daisuke Utagawa at Sushiko While we dined on many unique dishes there Daisuke spoke of the dozens of specifically descriptive Japanese phrases pertaining to the taste and mouth feel of every dish.
For my second lesson we met up at Sushiko, the posh and stylishly subdued Chevy Chase restaurant where Indonesian sushi chefs Piter Tjan and his brother Handry Tjan were ready to dazzle with the freshest fish to be found without my using a spear and scuba gear.
 Piter (left) and Handry Tjan of Sushiko Sushi and the long-tapered temaki afford an even more intense experience, as the seafood is raw. It is crucial, nay imperative, that the fish and crustaceans are of the highest quality and that the chef is highly trained in the ancient art of preparing and serving it. Though Daisuke trains new chefs from time to time, it is years before they are permitted to cut the fish. Usually they are relegated to making the vinegared rice and pickled vegetables, two decidedly different techniques that also must be perfected. “Rice grains should be independent,” Daisuke insists, impressing upon me the meticulous care in which it must be prepared.
Offering omakase, a nine-course chef’s tasting menu, is a new concept for this restaurant. One Daisuke hopes will catch on – – and for good reason. It is the optimal adventure in Japanese sushi dining and defers to the expertise of the sushi master who seeks out only the finest seafood available within each season. “Every fish has a different window of freshness,” my sushi sensei reveals. “Big bluefin tuna has a window of seven to ten days after it is caught before it is ready to serve.”
 Cured Flounder Three Ways Our tasting begins with kombu jime hirame, a beautifully cured flounder prepared three ways in aspic and using kombu, a spongy, kelp cultivated on ropes in the seas of Japan and Korea. The smoky fish is dressed with dashi gelée and adorned with shiso, a type of mint, and myoga, Japanese ginger. It is followed by a very delicate and creamy dish shiro ebi tartare with white sturgeon caviar, bonito flakes and shimmering gold (yes, real gold!) flakes. The servings are small, tantalizing, and easily eaten in one or two bites. A smoked Hama oyster quickly appears with ponzu gelée. “ As long as the food has your attention your palate is always being challenged,” Daisuke gently advises.
 Poached Monkfish Liver Up next is unagi sunomono, grilled freshwater eel salad with wakame (a woodsy tasting seaweed). It is tart and refreshing and leads us on to ankimo saba, poached monkfish liver dotted with tomato seeds, cured mackerel and a shower of black truffle shavings.
 Sea Bream with its roe in dashi broth For me, uni is the very essence of umami. Tonight its briny luxuriousness comes from Hokkaido and is prepared tempura style – lightly battered and fried and wrapped in seaweed, oozing with creaminess in a warm crackly crust and seasoned with green tea salt. Hard on its heels is madai suimono, sea bream with its roe, enoki mushrooms, myoga in dashi broth.
The restaurant can do omakase for four people every two hours. It is a pleasantly intense and focused experience with the sushi master in full view. Sake, Japanese beer, or as Daisuke would have it, wines from the Burgundy region of France, are the perfect complement.
 Bird’s Nest More uni arrives. This dish is called “bird’s nest” and it is paired with squid, fried leeks, a marinated, velvety egg yolk from jidori hens, and umeboshi, a salty, tart, fermented plum.
Then we digress for a thin slice of seriously marbled Miyazaki wagyu beef prepared by ourselves by laying it flat atop a hot stone for seconds per side. Pop in the mouth and it’s memorable.
 Nigiri board A glamorous plate of nigiri is proffered. Six single bites of scallop, golden eye snapper, masu (aka “cherry” salmon), spot prawn, flounder with uni (you cannot have too much of a good thing) and chopped toro, the fatty part of the blue fin tuna, wonderfully marbled, not oily, and looking like a precious jewel.
After travels with fish, we have come to dessert and it is a surprising bit of Francophilic decadence – – foie gras ice cream with huckleberry jam. We linger over a spot of tea while Daisuke shows me IPhone photos of his latest interest – – “snow cabbage” aka etto a cabbage that looks like any other yet it is buried in waist-deep snow and harvested in the middle of winter. The taste, he assures me, is delicious. He is utterly enamored by this highly prized, rare and very expensive vegetable. Another lesson. Another night of secrets from the master.
José Andrés Dine-N-Dash Event Slated for June 9th
A culinary tour of Penn Quarter restaurants and food trucks beckons the adventurous diners in this super cool World Central Kitchen fundraiser. Drawing on his mission to feed the world and train chefs in Haiti, the Dominican Republic, and now Zambia, Andrés has designed the perfect evening for the socially conscious to drink, dine and have fun at 17 participating DC restaurants in one fabulous evening and with all proceeds benefitting World Central Kitchen. It truly describes our core philosophy of nibbles and sips.
A press preview at three of the participating restaurants gave us a tempting taste of what’s to come.
 Dine-N-Dash at Jaleo At Jaleo we sampled little bites of endive with orange bits, almonds and goat cheese, and a lavish paella. China Chilcano, Andrés’s new and exceptional Peruvian-Asian influenced restaurant, had more yummy tastes and delicious cocktails, finally ending our 7th Street jaunt at Oyamel.
 Dine-N-Dash at China Chilcano Here’s how it works. From 6 to 9pm an estimated 2,500 eventgoers will stroll through the city’s Penn Quarter district, enjoying specialty dishes, craft cocktails and live music at all participating restaurants including China Chilcano, Cuba Libre, Del Campo, Jaleo, OYA, Oyamel, Partisan, Ping Pong Dim Sum, Poste Brasserie, Proof, SEI, Zaytinya and more. Then from 9 to 11pm guests are invited to join Andrés at an after party at the Carnegie Library with desserts, live music and, you guessed it, more drinks.
 Nibbles for Dine-N-Dash from China Chilcano “I am so excited to be hosting the third annual Dine-N-Dash!” said Uber Chef José Andrés, “What’s better than enjoying the amazing Penn Quarter restaurants, all in one night, while helping the many around the world who need our support. This is one of our biggest fundraisers to support the work of World Central Kitchen, which finds solutions for hunger and poverty worldwide. I believe that food has the power to change the world, and I’m thrilled the people of DC continue to support this unbelievable event!”
 Dine-N-Dash at China Chilcano General Admission tickets are $129 and include food and drinks at all participating restaurants plus access to the after party with José Andrés. VIP tickets are $299 and include food and drinks at participating restaurants, including VIP-only areas and dishes, pedicab rides, and access to select VIP-only areas and premium desserts and cocktails at the after party.
Tickets are available through Living Social. For more information about the event, visit www.dinendash.info.
World Central Kitchen is an action-based, non-profit organization finding smart solutions to hunger and poverty. “Today WCK is hard at work in Haiti, Dominican Republic and Zambia, empowering the people to be part of the solution – with a focus on smart school kitchens, clean cook stoves, job training, and job creation.” Visit www.worldcentralkitchen.org to learn more.
French Artist Hervé Maury’s Animals Delight at iCi Urban Bistro
 At the Hervé Maury opening reception Fantasy animals ruled the roost at iCi Urban Bistro at the Sofitel Hotel and artist Hervé Maury was at the opening reception for the show that will run through June 14th. So dépêchez-vous if you want to catch this whimsical exhibit. More than 20 pieces are displayed throughout the restaurant and by evening’s end a few of these had been purchased.
 One of Hervé Maury’s Polar Bears Opening night proved to be one of the hippest gatherings in town. Guests were issued selfie sticks at the door to photo-record the experience and Pernod pastises were offered along with endless flutes of champagne and a dizzying array of delicacies.
 Food art at iCi Urban Bistro Maury, a cheerful, bespectacled artist with no actual pets of his own, is a self-taught artist who resides in Marseille. Nonetheless he has a sincere passion for polar bears, cats, dogs, fish and elephants that he renders in both adorable and comical poses. His paintings are reminiscent of the sun-washed colors of the French Mediterranean, reflecting a sense of tenderness and texture in his use of marble powder, sands and ochers. Most of the work is painted on linen, though he has sometimes incorporated recycled marine sails.
 Maury Butterflies at iCi Urban Bistro Featured in exhibits around the world, including the South of France, Paris, London, Barcelona, Rabat and Hong Kong, his “Polar Bear” series once adorned the windows of Hermés boutiques worldwide.
 Executive Chef Franck Loquet puts his artistic imprint on raw fish Inspired by Maury’s paintings, Executive Chef Franck Loquet has created his own epicurean artwork and offers several specially designed dishes throughout the length of the exhibition. “I love to create artistic dishes for our guests to enjoy, and Hervé Maury’s artwork was a great inspiration for me,” said Chef Loquet. The 3-course prix-fixe menu is available in iCi Urban Bistro for lunch and dinner from May 14th through June 14th for $45 per person.
Director of Sales and Marketing Alexandra Byrne says, “We are so excited to offer this unique exhibit this summer. We strive to offer guest experiences that enhance our Sofitel pillars: design, culture and gastronomy. This will bring all of those pillars together in one place to satisfy all five senses of our guests.”
For reservations call 202 730.8700 or visit www.iciurbanbistro.com.
Kaz Okochi and Bonny Wolf Star at America After Hours: Sushi for Sale
In the last of their “Food After Hours” series, the National Museum of American History invited three culinary icons to speak on sushi – – Kaz Okochi, award-winning Chef/Proprietor of KAZ Sushi Bistro and Chef/Partner with Richard Sandoval in Masa 14, and NPR Commentator Bonny Wolf of American Food Roots, whose riffs on American food are well known to fans of Weekend Edition Sunday and her Web-only weekly food column, Kitchen Window.
 The evening’s panel. Bonny Wolf (l), Kaz Okochi (center), Yoko Isassi (right) They were joined by FoodStory founder, Yoko Isassi in a conversation about the rise in popularity of sushi in America. Afterwards, guests were treated to an inspired Japanese buffet supper and classes in sushi making by Okochi, sake tastings by Christian Choi, San-J soy sauce samplings, Japanese snacks from Bourbon, and beer from Sapporo.
 Sushi rolling class Notes from the Notables
Quote of the day.
Japanese Prime Minister during his recent visit to the US. “America got sushi and we got House of Cards.”
On the invention of sushi.
Isassi. Fields flood in the rainy season and they get a lot of fish in the rice fields. That’s how sushi started – – the fish and the rice – – and then pickling with salt to preserve it.
On how early sushi was introduced to the US.
Isassi: The first sushi restaurant in the US was opened in San Francisco in the early 1800’s.
On the proper way to eat sushi.
Isassi: You can use your hands or chopsticks, but dip the fish side into the soy sauce.
On sustainability.
Okochi: I just change the subject.
On keeping the fish fresh.
Isassi: My grandmother packs sushi in magnolia leaves and keeps it for a few days.
On wasabi.
Isassi: Wasabi is more like an antibiotic and bamboo leaves kill the germs.
Okochi: The vinegar protects it from bacteria.
Arigato, everyone!
 At the Food After Hours Sushi night — Baby bok choy At the Food After Hours Sushi night Food After Hours programs will start up again in August. To learn more about these diverse offerings that feature food demonstrations and discussions on the nation’s food systems, visit www.AmericanHistory.si.edu.
All photo credit – Jordan Wright
Jordan Wright
May 22, 2015
Special to The Alexandria Times
 Alex Mills as Jerry and Vato Tsikurishvili as Dorian. Photo by Koko Lanham. An eclectic jumble of flea market collectibles informs Luciana Stecconi’s clever set for Jerry’s one-room flat, in what reads as New York’s East Village. Vintage Ronald Coleman movie posters adorn the walls and point to the inspiration for playwright Everett Quinton’s steroidal version of A Tale of Two Cities. Jerry (Alex Mills), stage name Betty May, is an aspiring drag queen. But don’t let that throw you off, we’re just scratching the surface. He’s also a literate, thoughtful kid whose artistic proclivities fall a tad outside the realm of everyday culture.
As he prepares to premiere his long-awaited drag debut he discovers a baby abandoned on his doorstep, “What in the gay hell?” he shrieks. Jerry is ill prepared to deal with a child, and especially not the oddly precocious Baby Dorian (Vato Tsikurishvili) who has adult sensibilities and puerile needs.
Somehow the two communicate, Jerry speaks to him as a peer, while Dorian makes hilariously expressive baby responses also readable to the audience. This crazy buy-in is the magical moment when both Jerry (and the audience) travel down the rabbit hole together in an absurdist fantasy anchored by a tender story of hope and determination. After all, Dorian, who has the head of a grownup with the body of a toddler, is just the beginning of your compact with the playwright.
 Alex Mills as Jerry. Photo by Koko Lanham. To keep his date at the theatre, Jerry strikes a deal with Dorian to nap while he goes out. But Dorian, oddly advanced far beyond his binky-sucking years, demands a bedtime story. After some negotiation – – The Three Bears and Little Red Riding Hood are nixed by Dorian as being too scary – – Jerry settles on “A Tale of Two Cities”, the telling of which requires him to assume each character’s role from Dickens’s classic story. Be sure to brush up on the story ahead of time. The Playbill affords no descriptions of the book’s characters, and it can get somewhat complicated if you’re trying to keep track of who’s who.
Through countless back-and-forth costume changes (wigs, hats and costumes worthy of a diva’s wardrobe), dozens of props are imaginatively employed – – an old school bell serves to sound the Bastille’s call to arms.
 Alex Mills as his character Jerry’s Drag persona, Betty-May. Photo by Koko Lanham Mills, who in a herculean effort to keep Dorian (and us!) amused, never leaves the set, keeping the dialogue and quick changes at warp speed. N. B. Madame LaFarge didn’t knit as fast as this!
In this ultra demanding topsy-turvy role, Mills gives us the performance of a lifetime. His various characters are sharply executed and his brisk segues, physicality, and change of accents are astounding. The words ‘bravery’ and ‘fabulous’ come to mind. Do not leave your seat until the denouément. I promise it will blow your mind. Of course, that’s exactly why we love Synetic!
Highly recommended.
Through June 21st at Synetic Theater, 1800 South Bell Street, Arlington in Crystal City. For tickets and information call 866 811-4111 or visit www.synetictheater.org.
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