A Gastronome’s Diary of Eire Land – One Week’s Journey from Ancient Castles to Dublin’s Fair Metropolis

Jordan Wright
June 30, 2011
Special to The Washington Examiner

 

Dromoland Castle Golf and Spa Resort is a short drive from Shannon Airport in southwest Ireland

Dromoland Castle Golf and Spa Resort is a short drive from Shannon Airport in southwest Ireland


 

 

The Cliffs of Moher - photo credit Jordan Wright

The Cliffs of Moher - photo credit Jordan Wright

Harpist on the Cliffs of Moher - photo credit Jordan

Harpist on the Cliffs of Moher - photo credit Jordan

 

The lush terrain crisscrossing Ireland could break your heart with its raw beauty.  In a landscape where bright yellow hedges of wild gorse mingle with the snowy blossoms of the blackthorn and thousands of kilometers of centuries-old stone walls delineate emerald green fields, black-faced sheep and honey-hued dairy cows graze languorously beneath an impossibly blue sky.  For the traveler along the southern and western edge of the country in the counties of Cork, Limerick and Clare it is soul stirring.

From Shannon Airport in County Clare, we are just a few miles from our arrival at the lavish Dromoland Castle Golf and Spa Resort.  Built in the 5thC by the O’Brien family, descendants of the High King of Ireland, Brian Boru, the turreted castle overlooks its own golf course and falconry school on 375 acres offering grand suites decorated in elegant country style and a wealth of sporting activities like fishing, clay shooting and horseback riding.  Refined seasonally driven cuisine, helmed by noted chef David McCann, is reflected by roasted saddle of rabbit with leeks, clams and wild mushrooms in corn broth, filet of beef with a claret sauce, and chocolate coconut cream torte with red berry sauce.

The gardens at Dromoland Castle - photo credit Jordan Wright

The gardens at Dromoland Castle - photo credit Jordan Wright

The falconer at Dromoland Castle - photo credit Jordan Wright

The falconer at Dromoland Castle - photo credit Jordan Wright

From the castle it’s an easy drive to the limestone Cliffs of Moher on the southwest coast where guillemots and puffins frolic in Galway Bay beneath the shadow of O’Brien’s Tower.  In the distance the Aran Islands, a much-visited area noted for Irish music and thatched roof buildings dating from the mid 1400’s, are reachable by ferry from the nearby town of Doolin.

South of Ballyvaughan, lunch is at Gregan’s Castle Hotel, a lovely Georgian-style manor house, where you can park your wellies by the door for a bite of local steamed lobster or the delicious Burren lamb.  Expert local botanist, Tony Kirby, is there to escort us to The Burren National Park, and the iconic Poulnabrone Dolmen Monument.  The preserve is a beautifully desolate glacial karst of 98,000 acres filled with over 70% of Ireland’s native plants.

Throughout the countryside of this Neolithic land, are over 30,000 ‘ringforts’ and ancient stone monuments that speak of a civilization conceived before the pyramids of Egypt.  Conquered in turns by Celts, Gaels, Vikings, Visigoths and Normans, tribes built these ‘ringforts’ or ‘raths’.  But were they used for faeries or farmers?  Forts or sites for pagan mating rituals?  No matter.  The myths and mysteries, where Christian abbeys coexist with medieval castles and two million-year old subterranean rivers and caves, beckon the explorer.

The salad course of asparagus and morels at The K Club - photo credit Jordan Wright

The salad course of asparagus and morels at The K Club - photo credit Jordan Wright

Local oysters at the Farm Gate Cafe in Cork - photo credit Jordan Wright

Local oysters at the Farm Gate Cafe in Cork - photo credit Jordan Wright

A trip to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, built in 1425, offers a glimpse of “knight” life.  Stroll through the restored village to reach the castle keep where period-costumed lords and ladies invite you to make merry with a bawdy madrigal concert and medieval banquet in the great dining hall.  Traditional fare includes mead, braised beef and raspberry fool.

The following day we arrive through the magnificent gates of the luxurious 19thC Castlemartyr Resort. This extraordinary country estate, once owned by Sir Walter Raleigh, sits on 220 pastoral acres and has an 800-year old castle ruins that was once home to the Knights Templar.  A pair of perfectly matched Kerry bog ponies-with-cart trots us around the gardens before cocktails in the clubby Knight’s Bar.  On the veranda a black-and-white themed wedding of stunning young royals plays out before we segué into the dining room for a sumptuous six-course dinner of Ballycotton prawns with artichoke puree and truffles, ballantine of foie gras, sea bass with coastal mussels and chervil, and Hereford beef with a potato terrine and carrot fondant.

Morning brings us to Cork to visit the famed English Market, a food emporium chock-a-block with local fish, meats and farm products.  Upstairs at Farmgate Café we lunch on Atlantic oysters, grilled lemon sole and rhubarb fool paired with a crisp Verdicchio from the Le Marche region.

Kerry Bog ponies at Castlemartyr - photo credit Jordan Wright

Kerry Bog ponies at Castlemartyr - photo credit Jordan Wright

Traveling along the Celtic Sea we reach the quaint fishing village of Cobh. Home to the Royal Cork Yacht Club, it served as the final departure point for the RMS Titanic’s ill-fated maiden voyage.  From the town’s quay we set out on a bracing sea safari in a 12-seat RIB boat past Spike Island.  On the way to Kinsale we watch grey seals and bottlenose dolphins cavorting in the calm waters beneath the soaring cliffs.

The lighthouse at Old Head Golf Links - photo credit Jordan Wright

The lighthouse at Old Head Golf Links - photo credit Jordan Wright

Perched above the Atlantic Ocean is the Old Head Golf Links, where duffers like Tiger Woods and Jack Nicholson summon the golf gods.  We enjoy a casual lunch of cod and chips on the outdoor patio of the Lusitania Bar where if you’re lucky you’ll see one of 15 species of whales. The tony club has recently added contemporary-designed suites and a spa for overnight guests.

Back at Castlemartyr a massage and facial before a short walk into the village of Straffan to Pat Shortt’s Pub for a farm-style dinner while enjoying a rollicking evening of traditional Irish folk music.  A fish chowder of ling, haddock and salmon, beef braised in Beamish stout, and apple rhubarb crumble accompany pints of Black and Tans, made with half Guinness stout and half Smithwick’s ale.

The K Club's ghillie - photo credit Jordan Wright

The K Club's ghillie - photo credit Jordan Wright

A mid-morning stop at the old Jameson Distillery, then on to The K Club, a 19th C Georgian manor along the Liffey River.  The drive takes us past the Galtee Mountains and through ‘The Golden Vale’ where the counties of Limerick, Tipperary and Cork meet.  Sporting two 18-hole Arnold Palmer designed courses, The Kildare Hotel Spa and Country Club, as it is otherwise known, is home to the Ryder Cup and a favorite haunt of US Presidents and rock stars.  Tea, scones and watercress finger sandwiches followed by a sampling of Ireland’s most exquisite cheeses – creamy St. Killian, tangy Cashel Blue, wonderfully lemony Cratloe Hills and the earthy Milleens.

Out on the green a challenging fly fishing lesson with the estate’s ghillie precedes a tour of the hotel’s museum-quality collection of paintings, tapestries and sculptures (Of historical note – a framed signing of the Belfast Agreement which took place here).  Then off for a massage and dip in the indoor pool.

The evening’s adventure beckons as we wend our way down a narrow hidden stairwell to find a world-class wine collection in the castle’s cellar.  Sipping champagne and nibbling on salmon canapés by candlelight, we gasp discreetly over rooms filled floor-to-ceiling with extraordinary vintages, Pomerol, Montrachet, Petrus, Medoc and Champagne, some dating back to the 1920’s.

At dinner Chef Finbar Higgins, and his staff of 18 Michelin-star graduates signal serious dining in the private Pantheon Suite with luscious langoustines, oysters topped with citrus foam and a risotto strewn with morels.

Jeremy and stable boy at The National Stud - photo by Jordan Wright

Jeremy and stable boy at The National Stud - photo by Jordan Wright

Daybreak brings the fifth straight day of sunshine and we’re off to Tully in County Kildare and the Irish National Stud to visit the Horse Museum, Japanese Gardens and stables of priceless breeding stallions. It was a premier stop for Queen Elizabeth on her recent royal tour of Ireland.

We head for Dublin and begin with a tour of the historic Guinness Storehouse, where they are currently celebrating 252years of brewing beer.  We learn that Guinness sells a staggering 10 million glasses every day in over 150 countries around the world.  A top-notch lunch of Irish mussels in Guinness cream, Irish beef Stew and chocolate mousse topped with red currants is prepared for us by chef Justin O’Connor in the private Rainsford Room.  On site are two public restaurants, The Brewer’s Dining Hall and The Gilroy Restaurant and The Gravity Bar 144 feet up affording spectacular views of Dublin.

Pimm's cup before dinner at The Fitzwilliam Hotel - photo credit Jordan Wright

Pimm's cup before dinner at The Fitzwilliam Hotel - photo credit Jordan Wright

Arrive at The Fitzwilliam Hotel, a super-glam contemporary hotel across from the  tranquil gardens of St. Stephen’s Green and a stone’s throw from the best shops on Grafton Street.

Pimm’s Cup served in the penthouse garden before strolling over to the ornate yet very hip The Cliff House Townhouse, a beautifully restored Georgian period hotel and restaurant. East Coast potted monkfish, braised Fermanagh lamb with confit shoulder and garlic sauce, chocolate tart with candied orange and petit fours.

After breakfast in bed we walk to St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Trinity College to see The Book of Kells, dropping in at the Queen of Hearts, a perfectly adorable tea shop, to gather up some lemon scones and apple crumble.

Lunch at the Avoca Café, a charming upscale general store cum food hall with a rooftop garden restaurant and eight cookbooks to its name.  Chunky ‘chips’ cooked in duck fat, a coconut-crusted sea bream tempura with nam jim sauce, and apple crumble.

Sweets at the Queen of Hearts - photo credit Jordan

Sweets at the Queen of Hearts - photo credit Jordan

Jam session in St. Stephen's Green - photo credit Jordan Wright

Jam session in St. Stephen's Green - photo credit Jordan Wright

City sightseeing by double-decker bus and back to The Fitzwilliam for an imaginative dinner prepared by famed Irish chef, Kevin Thornton, whose Michelin-starred restaurant, Thornton’s, is in the hotel.  Dublin Bay prawns with prawn bisque and sabayon, Bere Island scallops with truffle mousse, noisette of Sikka deer with potato gnocchi and Valrhona chocolate sauce, and lemon tart with cassis sorbet.  Beautiful ingredients exquisitely prepared.

Sadly we catch our flight back to the States at the crack of dawn, treasuring our memories of the rugged Atlantic coast, green-canopied roads and baronial castles beside picturesque farms, of tiny villages and the cosmopolitan city of Dublin.

Still in our thoughts are the hearty breakfasts, redolent of thick-cut bacon and homemade sausages, house-cured salmon served on hearty brown bread smeared with sweet butter, poached eggs with marigold-hued centers and glass pots of fresh yoghurt. Today’s modern Irish chefs have launched the ‘new’ Irish cuisine and that radical culinary shift is the country’s most recent appeal.

For a guided tour of The Burren. www.heartofburrenwalks.com

For the sea safari. www.safari.ie

For more information on Ireland visit www.tourismireland.com

Bird-Watching at Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge The return of migratory birds to Cambridge, MD is one sign that winter is over

Jordan Wright
Special to The Washingtonian Magazine
May 4th 2011

A good sign that winter is over: the return of migratory birds. At Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge in Cambridge, Maryland, you can spot such spring harbingers as warblers, blue- and green-winged teals, and dunlins. The 25,000-acre Eastern Shore refuge is also home to pileated woodpeckers and one of the nation’s largest populations of bald eagles.

You can further explore the refuge’s flatland trails by bicycle, or kayak its tributaries. Blackwater Paddle & Pedal Adventures has rentals; for reservations, call 410-901-9255.

The nearby Hyatt Regency Chesapeake Bay Golf Resort, Spa and Marina boasts its own opportunities to see birds. The hotel’s private nature preserve, the Blue Heron Rookery, lies within its 400 acres. Weekend rates are $199 to $349 a night, suites $399 to $799.

Bowman’s Hill Wildflower Preserve – A cozy B&B adjacent to a 134-acre wildflower preserve.

Jordan Wright
Special to The Washingtonian Magazine
May 4th 2011

Amateur artists may be inspired to paint after a trip to the Inn at Bowman’s Hill (215-862-8090). The B&B in New Hope, Pennsylvania, is adjacent to a 134-acre wildflower preserve, reached via Washington Crossing Historic Park. In spring, you can follow nearly two dozen trails to see woodlands carpeted in thousands of Monet-hued bluebells. You’ll likely spot elusive red and white trillium along the paths as well as splashes of fiery flame azalea. Guided tours are available.

Location isn’t the inn’s only draw. Pop out of the cozy featherbeds, and, if you’d like, gather your own breakfast eggs from the inn’s chickens. The Bucks County inn is alongside the Delaware River, near the spot where George Washington crossed in 1776, and the area is rich with history, antiques shops, fine restaurants, art galleries, and more.

Weekend rates are $445 to $475 a night including a full breakfast; suites are $575 to $595. For information on the preserve, see bhwp.org.

Chill out, chow down and get your festival groove on in Montreal

June 7, 2011
By Jordan Wright
Special to The Washington Examiner

Old Montreal and Old Port of Montreal. Photo Tourisme Montreal

Old Montreal and Old Port of Montreal. Photo Tourisme Montreal

Bordered by the St. LaurentRiver, Montreal is a French-speaking food- and culture-obsessed city, with a progressive, hip vibe.  It boasts more than 90 festivals to choose from each year and is only about an hour and a half flight from Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport on Air Canada.

Chill Out at Le St-Martin HotelParticulier Downtown, a charmerof a boutique hotel in the downtownarea. It’s great for shopping andnightlife and a short hop to the historicsection of Old Montreal. Info:980 De Maisonneuve Blvd. Ouest.514-843-3000. lestmartinmontreal.com

Get your groove on at the Montreal Jazz Fest from June 25 until July 4 with hot headliners Abby Lincoln, Robert Plant, Diana Kralland more playing at venues around the city. Other ticketed shows like bossa nova faves Marinda + Solari perform on the Bateau Mouche,where you can enjoy dinner and anighttime cruise at the same time. Or catch the throwback group Return to the Future, starring Chick Corea, Jean Luc Ponty and Stanley Clarke as they revisit the classics. Info: montrealjazzfest.com.

In the Old City, stroll through the open-air art gallery featuring more than 100 exhibitors, 40 street performers and multimedia at the Festival International Montreal en Arts on Sainte-Catherine Street.  Info: June 29 to July 3. festivaldesarts.org

The International Fireworks Competition dazzles on Saturdays and a few Wednesdays from June 25 to July 30. The spectacular “pyromusical” displays are hosted by eight countries, with a Beatles tribute on the final day. Held at La Ronde, a Six Flags amusement park, on the Ile Sainte Helene. Info: For tickets and park information, visit laronde.com.

Cirque du Soleil, whose headquarters are in Montreal, presents Totem, a new show about the evolutionary progress of mankind, from June 16 to July 31 under the Grand Chapiteau at the Old Port. Info: For tickets visit cirquedusoleil.com.

Festival International de Jazz de Montreal

Festival International de Jazz de Montreal

Chow down at Schwartz’s Deli.Fans line up for this Montreal institution’s daily-smoked meat sandwiches and steaks. Order a brisket sandwich with a side of half-sour pickles and fries downed with a Cott’s Black Cherry soda.Info: 3895 Saint-Laurent Blvd.

The chic, sleek Restaurant Europea,voted 2010’s restaurant of the year by the Guide Debeur, is helmed by acclaimed chef Jerome Ferrer, who sources Quebecois products for his elegant cuisine. Choose the chef’s tasting menu starting with creamy lobster cappucino and followed by nine more inventive courses. Info: 1227 de la Montaigne. 514-398-9229.

Visit the Marche Jean-Talon food market and you’ll find an astounding array of meat, local cheeses, chocolates, breads, luscious pastries and fresh produce purveyors as well as nine cafes to relax in.  Titillate your senses at Olives & Epices with the finest herbs, spices and olive oils. Across the square the casual Soupe Soup offers dozens of delicious rustic-style soups daily.  Info: 7020 Rue Casgrain.

Verses Restaurant showcases French contemporary cuisine at the Hotel Nelligan in the Old Quarter.  Stand outs include the Smoked Bison Tartare with red berry syrup, Porc Nagano with De Puy lentils, potato gnocchi and truffle carpaccio. Get your sweet fix with the lovely Vacherin, a meringue made with dried flowers and filled with tea-infused citrusy sorbets. Finish with cocktails on the rooftop bar overlooking the Old Port and Notre Dame Basilica. Info: 100 Saint-PaulSt. West. 514-788-4000.

Hip, Hot and Euro-Chic

Vail Rocks the Rockies

Jordan Wright
January 2011
Special to the Washington Examiner and the San Francisco Examiner

Cross-country skiing at the Vail Nordic Center - image by Cody Downerd

Cross-country skiing at the Vail Nordic Center - image by Cody Downerd

Cross country skiing at the Vail Nordic Center - image courtesy of Cody Downerd

Cross country skiing at the Vail Nordic Center - image courtesy of Cody Downerd

Straight out of the chute the coolest thing you’ll notice about Vail is that it’s a world-class ski resort without attitude, where status is measured in how many runs you packed in that morning or the cut of your stem christie. With its young, hip vibe and chic Tyrolean style, it appeals to both the adventure-minded thrill-seeker and the sophisticated traveler. As host to rarified-air athletes and celebs who relax and rehab in lavishly appointed hotels, spas and clinics (Lance Armstrong trains here along with top NHL, NBA and MLB players.), it is also perfectly suited to active families who prefer spending their quality time outdoors.

Adding to the fun is the mega-watt vibe from edgy-hip “boarders”, the surfers of the alpine world, who bunk ten-to-a-condo and speak in half pipe terms. That everyone shares the same turf, both on the slopes and after dark, is what makes Vail so appealing.

When you drive into Vail from reliably snow-cleared Interstate 70, the Bavarian-style village appears through the mist like Brigadoon. A visually impressive locale that consistently ranks as the number one ski resort in the US, everything is pleasantly accessible. You’ll find major hotels, restaurants and shops situated on or near a 1.3-mile oval road at the base of the mountains and served by public shuttles that make twelve strategic stops around the village every five minutes. In addition some hotels have private shuttles that chauffeur guests to their destinations. So after check-in, there is really no need to reacquaint yourself with your rent-a-car.

Riding the shuttle beats transportation at other winter resorts where navigating precipitous, icy and unfamiliar roads is the only way to get around. Here everyone’s in on the fun from entire bridal parties to skiers and boarders making their way to the lifts, and couples dressed to the nines out for a night on the town. Before long you’ll be clued in to trail conditions and sharing shopping tips with complete strangers.

Entering Vail Village across the sparkling Gore Creek and through the quaint covered bridge, the recent $1 billion dollar renaissance is everywhere. Streets and sidewalks have been replaced with heated cobblestone walkways, evoking Old World charm and providing safe pedestrian passage. And with 180 inches of cumulative snow so far this season it’s important to get to the slopes…and the shops…without a pre-trail tumble.

There is so much to do in Vail, even if you haven’t a mind to schuss down a snow-covered mountain at 60 mph. Take the heated glass-enclosed Vail Mountain gondola up to Adventure Ridge, a family-friendly destination that houses the Nature Discovery Center in a large green yurt, and check out the kid-sized snowmobiles, skiing and tubing. After enjoying spectacular 360° views of the surrounding Rocky mountains and seven magnificent back bowls beckoning to be conquered, you can pop in to Bistro Fourteen for drinks and relax with three-cheese fondue or buffalo carpaccio before riding the gondola or skiing your way back down into Lionshead Village.

Ice Show at Solaris Ice Rink - image courtesy of Solaris

Ice Show at Solaris Ice Rink - image courtesy of Solaris

Bol at Solaris - Image courtesy of Solaris

Bol at Solaris - Image courtesy of Solaris

Back in the heart of Vail Village at the brand new Solaris Plaza is the stunning outdoor 6,500 square-foot Solaris Ice Rink. Designed by Denver artist and sculptor Lawrence Argent, it opened to the public last month with an ice show featuring world-class silver medalist, Patrick Chan. Also at Solaris is böl, a sleek scene-stealer of a bowling alley. With an eclectic menu, guest DJs, and cushy leather sofas, it offers over 100 wines, 30 specialty beers and artisanal cocktails. It was it one of five locations around the country for E!’s New Year’s Eve countdown. In the same complex is CinéBistro, a movie theatre where nibbles and sips are served seat-side. For indoor skating there’s the close-by Dobson Ice Arena where future Michelle Kwans can share the ice with national hockey players.

The Colorado Ski and Snowboard Museum Hall of Fame is a must-see with a small theatre showing archival footage of the rugged 10th Mountain Division training at local Camp Hale circa World War II in anticipation of guarding the nation’s borders. Exhibits reflect their influence on Colorado’s emergent ski industry and display artifacts from the early years of skiing and snowboarding.

In winter the town’s 18-hole golf course becomes the Vail Nordic Center where cross-country skiers have a 17-kilometer trail of set track, and there’s snowshoeing on 10 kilometers of natural beauty. Snowshoes and cross-country ski rentals are available on site. For snowboarding, skiing or ice climbing equipment rental or purchase, there’s the Bag and Pack Shop carrying apparel from Patagonia, North Face and Eagle Creek. Christy Sports is another good bet for everything else in sports gear.

Where to stay

Vail Cascade Resort and Spa - image courtesy of the resort

Vail Cascade Resort and Spa - image courtesy of the resort

The fire pit at Vail Cascade Resort and Spa - image courtesy of the hotel

The fire pit at Vail Cascade Resort and Spa - image courtesy of the hotel

Vail Cascade Resort and Spa promotes itself as the only ski-in/ski-out resort in Vail. A spectacular property, it is rated a Top 20 World’s Best Family Hotel by Travel + Leisure and is Vail’s only AAA Four-Diamond ski resort providing condo and home rentals as well as hotel accommodations. The hotel recently enjoyed a $20 million facelift that included a new heated infinity pool and hot tubs overlooking Gore Creek. Be prepared for rooms that are small by comparison to other luxury resorts. Though they make up for that with the gorgeous Aria Spa and Club, and their state-of-the-art fitness center offering an indoor track and tennis courts, as well as indoor basketball and racquetball courts in 78,000 sq. ft. of recreation facilities.

Atwater on Gore Creek is the resort’s premier restaurant helmed by Chef Adam Votaw. Braised Lamb Gnocchi and hen of the woods mushrooms with chestnut velouté reflect the season along with Korabuta Tenderloin with cranberry red cabbage, pork belly and caraway spaetzle. Plan on making reservations well in advance as one evening a month the dining room is transformed into a romantic retreat when electric light is banished in favor of hundreds of candles. Later guests can gather beneath the stars to toast s’mores over the fire pit.

The Arrabelle at Vail Square - image courtesy of RockResorts

The Arrabelle at Vail Square - image courtesy of RockResorts

The Arabelle at Vail Square is a two-year-old posh property constructed in a rustic Austrian style. Spacious rooms with fireplaces and large bathrooms with jetted soaking tubs and personal concierges who attend to your every need make this magnificent resort in the heart of Vail Village very desirable. Also available are 25 private residences with fully equipped gourmet kitchens and up to five bedrooms. RockResorts Spa at the Arrabelle, a 10,000 sq. ft. complex, incorporates mountain essences like silver sage, mint, rosemary and juniper in its deluxe body and facial treatments.

Four Seasons Resort Vail - image courtesy of Four Seasons

Four Seasons Resort Vail - image courtesy of Four Seasons

The brand new Four Seasons Resort Vail opened its doors only last month. In addition to five-star luxury hotel rooms and suites the grand hotel also offers private residential rentals. Jason Harrison, formerly at the Bellagio in Las Vegas is the top toque at Flame Restaurant preparing aged steaks and earthy comfort foods like Slow-Braised Pot Roast with horseradish potatoes, French beans and cheddar biscuits, or Tea-Smoked Rack of Venison. Sides of broiled marrow or truffled Comté fritters would satisfy any frostbitten gourmand. On the lighter side sushi chefs prepare fresh sashimi, nigiri and specialty rolls to snack on in the hotel’s Fireside Lounge.

After a grueling day on the slopes the 75-meter heated pool with a view of Vail Mountain awaits. Saunas and steam rooms ease aching muscles, while at the spa the signature Ginseng Facial Treatment uses circulation-boosting jade rollers and sybarites can splurge on the Spirit of the Rockies Couples Body Treatment.

Kids get special attention too with child-size bathrobes and slippers and kid-friendly menus in all the restaurants. The resort will arrange every kind of winter activity imaginable including horse-drawn sleigh rides and even dog sledding.

More Dining in Vail

The Bar at Kelly Liken - image by Jordan Wright

The Bar at Kelly Liken - image by Jordan Wright

Kelly Liken – Owned by celeb chef and namesake Kelly Liken, a contestant on Top Chef America and one of three finalists on Bravo’s Top Chef, this intimate and stylish modern space is one of the hottest tickets in town as evidenced by Liken’s loyal following. A small but well-chosen wine list by Liken’s husband and sommelier, Rick Colomitz, complements the inventive locally-sourced cuisine. Stand-out Maitre d’, Ricki Lane, is there to guide you through your choices. Don’t miss the Elk Carpaccio and the Potato Crusted Trout Filets typical of her Colorado cuisine. And opt for the signature cocktails made with Cap Rock Colorado Gin or Vodka.

Larkspur's Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with truffle strips - image by Jordan Wright

Larkspur's Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with truffle strips - image by Jordan Wright

Larkspur – Hand-crafted cocktails and high-end gourmet cuisine are served in this softly-lit very swank spot in the Golden Peak area. Exquisite service, coupled with an incomparable wine list of 5,000 bottles from over 500 labels, signal serious destination dining. Recommended: Chef Armando Navarro’s Duo of Colorado Lamb with white beans, tomato confit and roasted artichoke and the Mediterranean Sea Bass with fennel purée, piperade, wild greens and tapenade. Anything deft mixologist Chris David conjures up is divine.

La Tour – Chef/Owner Paul Ferzacca’s and Executive Chef Chase Wilbanks’ French fare is innovative and delicious, consistently garnering rave reviews. This month restarts the six-course tasting menu and hugely successful “Bacon Dinners”, featuring different organic bacon from around the country. Specialties include Sautéed Red Ruby Trout with chanterelle mushrooms and Serrano ham with butternut squash ginger coulis, and Seafood Bouillabaisse with saffron risotto in a tomato fennel broth. This is where to find the best Crème Brulée and Chocolate Pot de Crème.

Terra Bistro – A pioneer in the green movement when they opened and eco-conscious to the max, this attractive restaurant features an all-natural mainly organic menu and a vibrant bar scene. Get an early start to the evening with their “Appy Hour”. Trendy fare includes the Tequila and Sage Chicken Tamale with caldo verde, salsa crudo and cucumber cream, and Muscovy Duck Breast with chipotle-chocolate fig sauce and cranberry bread stuffing.

The Tap Room – For young singles and scenemakers this get-your-groove-on hangout at the base of the mountain has casual fare and great hamburgers in a well-known Vail hot spot.

The Westside Café – Funky and eclectic. Where locals go for a hearty home-style breakfast any time of the day.

Samana Lounge – A Euro-inspired small club that starts the evening as an intimate lounge with live bands, and ends up a high-octane late night dance spot. Karaoke and international DJs keep it rocking till the wee hours.

Vendetta’s – This popular hangout is where you’ll rub shoulders with landed gentry locals and hyper bar-hoppers. Fine Italian cuisine on the first level, then climb the stairs for pizza and beer and a high-decibel scene.

Shopping

 Karats Vail -  Heather Trub - Avid Design - Golden Rings

Karats Vail - Heather Trub - Avid Design - Golden Rings

Vail’s shops run the gamut from hot couture fashion to the hippest grunge snowboarder gear, to fine art and collectibles.

Karats Jewelry Gallery– One of Colorado’s best-known jewelers, owner Dan Telleen incorporates stunning exotica like ancient 2500 year-old Greek coins, 500 million-year-old trilobite fossils and even sinuous snake vertebrae with gold, silver and precious gems to craft his unique designer jewelry.

Pismo Contemporary Art Glass – Colorado’s largest collection of contemporary glass art and jewelry by both new and emerging artists and world-renowned glassblowers like Dale Chihuly.

The Gorsuch store in Vail - image courtesy of Gorsuch

The Gorsuch store in Vail - image courtesy of Gorsuch

Gorsuch – The premier apparel store for haute couture ski and après-ski clothing for men and women. With lines from Bogner, Roberto Cavalli, Botttega Veneta and so much more, this is the gold standard for ultra-chic looks both on the slopes and off.

Art Glass at the Pismo Gallery - image by Jordan Wright

Art Glass at the Pismo Gallery - image by Jordan Wright

Squash Blossom – Original fine art, bronze sculptures, one-of-a-kind jewelry, art glass and collectibles featuring international and local artists. Their other in-town location, The Cogswell Gallery is known for their beautiful collection of Native American beadwork, weavings, pottery and jewelry.

One Track Mind – The trendy destination for edgy snowboarder apparel and top-of-the-line equipment.

Whisk and Quill Wishes All Its Gastronomes, Oenophiles, Theatre Mavens and Wanderlusters A Sparkling New Year Full of Fresh Footsteps and Delicious Dishes

Thank you, loyal readers, for pursuing life’s intriguing adventures with Whisk and Quill in 2010. This December celebrates my third year as a food and travel writer and first year as a theatre reviewer, and it has been an astounding ride full of new friends, evocative memories and secrets revealed. And though my life has gravitated more to the keyboard than cooktop, to the frequent inquiries I say, “Yes! I still enjoy being a private chef.”

In this past year alone my features on food and travel have developed a bi-coastal readership that has rapidly grown from 86,000 “eyeballs” (industry-speak) to over 10 million! A figure quoted directly from one of my editors that baffles and amazes me daily.

Chefs, restaurants, farmers, vintners, caterers and new food products showcased on Whisk and Quill have garnered national attention, posh properties and spas have had their luxuries scrutinized or extolled, and theatre productions have been picked or panned – all without one single advertiser on Whisk and Quill’s website.

As we look ahead to up-and-comers like Greenville, SC’s Vicki Moore of The Lazy Goat; Colorado’s Top Chef finalist and restauranteur Kelly Liken; Charleston’s Sean Brock of McCrady’s and Husk; and veteran chefs like DC returnee, Fabio Trabocchi, all to be featured in the coming months, we offer our deepest gratitude to America’s top toques, Jose Andres, Anthony Bourdain, Eric Ripert, Joan Nathan and Laurent Tourondel who joined in the dialogue with us this past year.

So here’s to 2011 and another year of reporting to inspire, tempt and dazzle you to create your own journeys. Let’s drink a cuppa kindness for the auld year and blow those vuvuzelas for a scintillating and scrumptious New Year!

Warmest regards to all,
Jordan