November 2012
Jordan Wright
Special to www.dcmetrotheaterarts.com, www.broadwaystars.com, and www.localkicks.com
The Federalist – A Peaceful Retreat in the Heart of Downtown
What an eclectic array of events in just the past few weeks! Here are some highlights. We cozy into a leather banquette for a quiet, civilized and very elegant dinner at The Federalist in The Madison hotel where Chef de Cuisine Harper McClure put us in the right frame of mind for our madcap road trip. Soups start us off – cauliflower bisque and an aromatic she-crab soup with nubbins of lump crabmeat. My partner went for the Shenandoah lamb loin with celery root purée while McClure kindly indulged me with a special vegetarian plate of Alsatian braised arrowhead cabbage, sautéed chanterelle mushrooms, roasted Brussels sprouts, glazed cippolini onions, Carolina Gold rice and corn drop biscuits, while I try to pack in a week’s worth of veggies.
Upscale and Downscale on the Road
In the morning we’re off to Atlantic City, New York City, and Long Island too for a quick trip down memory lane. No, we were not the advance team for Hurricane Sandy! But it has felt somewhat eerie this week as we view disaster photos from the very roads we traveled and places where we stayed, trying to keep in contact with our New York friends who have lost power. But for now we are blissfully ignorant of the devastating forces lurking a mere fortnight away.
 Latino fisherman casts his net into the Atlantic off the coast of Margate, NJ – Photo by Jordan Wright After a sun-drenched ride we disembarked at the glam resort Revel. Its blue glass windows shimmer forty-eight stories skyward upping the wow factor in Atlantic City. The resort has five restaurants from some of the region’s top chefs, but we were headed for Robert Wiedmaier’s Mussel Bar and Michel Richard’s Central Michel Richard both of who have their original outposts here in DC. The plan is to visit each one over the following two evenings.
But first a few words about the hotel. It is a breathtaking $2.4 billion curvilinear building designed by Architechtonica – the über modernistic design firm whose Brickell Avenue high-rise offices were featured in “Miami Vice” , setting the tone for that show’s hipster vibe. No glitzy faux-Venetian Vegas-inspired schlock here. This luxury property was decorated in the trendy retro mid-century modern style. I expected to see the Dino and Sammy and the rest of the original rat pack from the “Oceans 11” in their slender-cut suits.
Our first night was spent at Mussel Bar, a Flemish gastro-pub where we found an edgy macho vibe, where Wiedmaier’s Harley Davidson is slung atop the room-length bar and chandeliers are cobbled together from rope and old bottles. Skull graffiti is carved in some of the tables. Skulls are very stylish this year and not on account of Halloween. Try the house private label Belgian beer, Antigoon, a crisp light ale that sports a graphic of a giant with severed hand. No cause for alarm. Brabo, the name of one of Wiedmaier’s Alexandria restos, is a much-revered hero from Belgian mythology.
Expect braised meats and root vegetables served en casserole at this time of year; fresh local oysters, clams, lobsters and mussels, of course; as well as house-made charcuterie and addictive pommes frites. It’s Belgian meets American regional.
Central Michel Richard is its polar opposite. A brightly lit curvaceous blonde wood nest with an open kitchen, chef’s table and dining bar, it features casual French cuisine. Deviled eggs topped with freshly pickled sardines, a chopped salad with mustard vinaigrette, and a beef filet-derived steak tartare were more than satisfying, especially after a cone filled with Richard’s signature gougeres– melt in your mouth cheese bites perfect for snacking with a martini – or “martillery” as we fondly call them at home.
Lunch took us to White House Subs for an Italian cold cut special made with fresh Italian bread. The 65 year-old temple to naugahyde and formica is a must visit. The walls are lined with celebrity habitués from the 50’s on up – a tribute to its great subs and loyal following. We settled for half a sub each for $6 bucks a pop.
 White House Sub Shop in Atlantic City – Photo by Jordan Wright On to New York City to Wall Street and the Battery. We pass the new World Trade Center construction in the pouring rain and walk along one of the rare cobblestone streets left in Manhattan. Our destination was brunch at the 250 year-old Fraunces Tavern. An inn cum history museum, it is one of the most fascinating locales in the city, adjacent to the National Museum of the American Indian’s George Gustav Heye Center, and one I had somehow overlooked in all my years in the city. This pre-revolutionary spot is where George Washington gave his inaugural address and later his farewell address to his officers of the Continental Congress. During the Revolution it was the site of the first U.S. Treasury and the Departments of Foreign Affairs and War. A meeting place for the Sons of the American Revolution it is Manhattan’s oldest surviving building and part of the American Whiskey Trail.
 The Bar at Fraunces Tavern – Photo by Jordan Wright Our fixed price brunch allotted us two Bloody Marys, one entree and a dessert. George and Martha, had they partaken, would have approved. I had the creamy smoked haddock chowder and the Irish Breakfast with sausage, blood pudding, bacon, eggs and baked beans, while my partner opted for the tavern’s buttery-crusted turkey pot pie and goat cheese, pear and cranberry salad. After downing two bloodies I forgot to photo the desserts – homemade pie with homemade ice cream.
Later that evening we repaired to the Lower East Side to a Keith McNally spot called Schiller’s Liquor Bar – all white subway-tiled walls with antique fittings and signage from the turn of the 20th C. After seeing the photos from Hurricane Sandy with the neighborhood underwater, I hope the place is still up and running as it was pouring cats and dogs that night and we had to leap over puddles on tiny sidewalks.
 The scene at Schiller’s Liquor Bar on the Lower East Side – photo by Jordan Wright The place was crowded, cold and damp and all about the cocktail. We kept our coats on. Tables were a few feet from the constantly opening door. I vaguely recall a too-sweet bourbon sour, which the bartender crankily corrected. Dinner was forgettable pasta, quickly downed while being stink-eyed by a hostess eager to turn the tables. No dessert. We fled like thieves in the night.
Avant Le Deluge – Dodging an Impending Hurricane Sandy
Morning brought breakfast at a friend’s home on Long Island – real New York Everything bagels, scrambled eggs and baked ham too – before taking off on a tour of the island and my old homestead. It looked exactly the same as we drove up the long circular driveway and begged entry. A surprised and kindly eighty year-old couple were entirely amenable to our visit. Turns out they are the same family that bought the home from my parents and have raised 14 children in a house where we two kids once cavorted like puppies throughout the home’s ten bedrooms.
 Visiting my childhood home on Long Island – Photo by Roy Wright Around the corner we stop in at The Chowder Bar. Sixty-six years in the same spot, the clapboard cottage perches unceremoniously beside the Maple Avenue Dock,a dozen or so yards from the old ferry boats to Fire Island. They still serve the best clam chowder on the island for a few bucks and warmed the cockles of our hearts on a blustery day.
 The Chowder House voted the best chowder on Long Island – Photo by Jordan Wright In the evening we took dinner with friends in Massapequa, a small mid-island town that boasts numerous Italian restaurants both high- and low-end. We drive along Broadway, the main drag, past mom-and-pop storefronts with traditional pasta makers, pizza joints, bakers, butchers and delis – all Old Country Italiano. At Fra Amici Pizzeria & Ristorante it’s pasta night and the special three-course dinner is $11.95. Caesar salads crisscrossed with olive oil-drenched anchovies, hearty minestrone soup crammed with zucchini and kale, and baskets of just-baked Italian bread cover the small table. Shortly huge bowls of steaming pasta piled high with meatballs the size of baseballs arrive. The tender orbs of veal and beef in homemade “gravy” as they call marinara sauce in these parts, melt in our mouths.
From a list of over fifteen types of pasta dishes I choose linguini alla vongole. I have eaten this dish all over seaside Italia and anywhere in the United States near a bay or ocean. I’ve had it prepared in the shell with Cherrystones, Little Necks or canned clams. I know my alla vongole like a fish knows its scales. I look down at my plate. There beforeme is a sure half-pound of rough chopped whole fresh clams, whole cloves of tender garlic sautéed in butter and parsley and pasta enough for four. I am thinking Jonah and the Whale. I am thinking I am the big fish and this is my odyssey and as such I need to act my part. Como incredibile!
We all took a deep breath, dove in to our respective pasta and truth be told made room for dessert though I cannot imagine how – cannoli and Italian cheesecake followed by mugs of frothy cappuccino. I am still dreaming of it. Readers, for the love of Mike, please let me know if there is anything in our area with “my-Nonna’s-in-the-kitchen” real-deal Italian dishes like this.
Cookie Monsters at Peace
Fueling us along during our time in the car were the heavenly New York City Black + Blanco cookies. We tried all four exotic flavors of the buttery Moroccan-inspired ‘sandcastles’, as they call them. The mad delicious sweets are gluten-free – though Lord knows not calorie-free. Made with rye flour and virgin coconut oil they are entirely vegan. No eggs, no dairy. Choose from Maple Dusted Cardamom, Vanilla Black Sesame, Marzipan or Deep Chocolate Infrared infused with smoked paprika. After each box we were still unable to pick a clear winner. We’ll keep trying till we can.
Chinese Master Hu Comes to the Mandarin Oriental DC
 Master Hu
Shaolin Kung Fu Master
Mandarin Oriental, Sanya Back in town an exclusive booking at the Asian-inspired The Spa at Mandarin Oriental with Shaolin Kung Fu Master Hu awaited us. Master Hu is from Henan Province and is a Master of Qi Gong and Medical Qi Gong as well as massage and meditation which are his specialties. Master Hu has been on a multi-city tour, teaching students in both the martial and the cultural arts of China, and he was only in Washington for a few days before traveling on to the Mandarin Oriental in Chicago.
Our private class was an 80-minute Shaolin Zen Tea Ceremony that addressed health and a holistic diet regime. The result is to stimulate the senses and bring the student back to nature through the serving of tea as a means to meditate together. It seeks to harmonize the mind and body through a spiritual experience conducive to finding your inner self.
After watching Master Hu’s intricate ceremony of making, steeping and serving several white and green teas – one being the smoky lapsang souchong from the Fujian Province of China – he told me his name means ‘tiger’. I asked him what ‘foo’ means. “It means happy,” he translated. “Oh well, my dog’s name is Foo Foo,” I offered. “Means very, very happy!” he giggled nearly falling off his chair. His charm is contagious. We sipped and grinned right along with him.
Later we floated off to lunch at the hotel’s Sou’Wester and sat at a table overlooking the harbor while watching the yachts bobbing on the Potomac along Maine Avenue. Feeling blissed out and in a nether realm of consciousness, I dreamily ordered the Pan-Seared Red Drum, a local fish served atop jambalaya and Anson Mills Carolina Gold rice, finishing with the entirely-over-the-top Early Autumn Sundae of port-roasted figs, candied walnuts and clover honey ice cream. We drifted like autumn leaves back to our car and workaday reality, while thoughts of a chestnut sorbet not chosen were luring me back before the season’s end.
Partying with Phoenix – An Insider’s Report
A day of food and fun hosted by friends from the Phoenix CVB was on the agenda earlier this month and I wouldn’t have missed it for the world. A chance to have a private luncheon prepared by Mitsitam’s Executive Chef, Richard Hetzler at the National Museum for the American Indian (NMAI)that I knew would prove to be indelible.
 The pond in autumn at NMIA – photo by Jordan Wright Our small group settled into a private dining room off the Main Cafeteria at tables swathed in bronze silks. Host Greg Stanton, the Mayor of Phoenix, had been summoned to the White House that morning, following the previous night’s third Presidential debate, and he was running a tad late. Trays of totopos, appeared with guacamole and peppery spreads with baked vegetable chips. I toyed with a cool prickly pear agua fresca.
Stanton arrived around then apologizing for his late arrival. He’s a good-looking, energetic man-on-a-mission eager to dispel the bad press Arizona has gotten of late. He’d heard one of us had googled up the piece about his experiment to live on a week’s worth of food stamps. I raised my hand. I had been impressed by his sensitivity and drive even before our meeting. He said we probably wouldn’t want to hear about his trip to the White House. My hand shot up again and said, “Yes, please, Mr. Mayor, we would.” “Well,” he recounted, “everyone’s chests were pretty puffed up after the previous evening’s success.” And you could almost feel as though you’d been there too.
 Phoenix Mayor Greg Stanton Lunch began with curls of cedar wrapped around seared salmon belly – the most buttery part of the fish – the poached red roe scattered like confetti over the top, the skin-on filet leaning against butternut squash bread pudding. (Note: Hetzler achieves a crisp skin by first removing, pressing and quick searing it on a flattop grill and then reassembling the whole.)
Later a chestnut-stuffed goose terrine, sweet potato corn pone and wilted Brussels sprout leaves finished the coterie of appetizers smoothly paired with an Argentine Viognier. Buffalo filet came glazed with fig must and clusters of plump shrimp sparkled with aji peppers and yellow yucca causa, a distinctive Peruvian dish derived from the Incans.
Hetzler showed off all the season’s glories with cauliflower-mashed potatoes made with buttermilk and horseradish, and a squash and Barlett pear gratin served in a pretty casserole. We were a feather’s-breadth from heaven sipping a Chilean pinot noir when dessert was presented in the form of an aromatic acorn squash tart perfumed with sage and huckleberry honey plus a don’t-shoot-the-messenger apple crumble. Take note budding chefs! This is how one of our city’s finest chefs celebrates fall’s bounty using indigenous and sustainable foods.
A few hours later a cocktail reception was held at the United States Institute of Peace (USIP). This dramatic ultra-modern winged structure, which took three years to complete, is the newest addition to Constitution Avenue. It features a glorious undulating glass roof called the Ansary Peace Dove. On this night they would throw open the doors for an event that was not a peace-related program or conference and guests were head over heels to see it from the inside.
Copper casseroles filled with lavish dishes were set up around the sun-drenched room. What I remember most is the posole, chicken braised in mole sauce, seafood tamales and crab cakes with pumpkin seed aioli, though there were countless other delights in the cavernous space. After thoughtful remarks by the returning Mayor Stanton, Suwaimaa five-time world champion Hoop Dancer accompanied by a native drummer, performed for the riveted guests.
 Five-time World Champion Hoop Dancer Suwaima and Drummer – photo Jordan Wright I Love to Eat – James Beard Comes to DC
This is the last weekend for the short run of Round House Theatre’s fabulous I Love to Eat, the one-man show on the life and times of iconic chef James Beard. In 1946 before Julia Child, Guy Fieri and the Food Network, there was Beard, America’s first TV chef. His NBC show was “Elsie’s Kitchen Tips”, named after the show’s sponsor Elsie the Cow, whose messages drop down to the stage á la Groucho Marx’s secret word delivering duck.
 Nick Olcott photo by ClintonBPhotography. James Beard kitchen photo © Krishna Dayanidhi, courtesy of The James Beard Foundation. Actor and successful DC-based director, Nick Olcott, channels Beard in all his catty, charming, culinarily knowledgeable glory. To prepare for the role Olcott prepared dishes from Beard’s many cookbooks and blogged about it – his knife skills on the set confirm his year long rehearsal for the role. The set is Beard’s kitchen. A world map signifying his world travels is hung alongside dozens of gleaming copper pans. Stainless steel worktables frame the stage and retro Princess phones are at every corner.
The gourmand enters grandly through a refrigerator in pomegranate-hued Chinese silk pajamas, frost clouds billowing behind. He takes a call from an admirer in Kansas concerned about her dish. “Gird your apron a little tighter,” he advises. “It’s not Easter – no need to bring it back from the dead!” The dialogue is familiar and intimate and we feel we’re a fly on the wall of his life where in his vernacular nonsense is “twaddle” and approval is “really tops” “You can get away with anything if you are amusing!” he admits. Wise words from a sage cook.
At Round House Theatre, 4545 East-West Highway, Bethesda, MD through November 4th. For tickets and information call 240 644-1100 or visit www.RoundHouseTheatre.org.
Musical Visions: Live Music and Art Auction
Jordan Wright
October 17, 2012
Eighteen years ago the non-profit Hungry for Music was founded by local entrepreneur Jeff Campbell – a man inspired by a vision to heal the world through music. The idea germinated back in 1992 while Campbell was taking a fund-raising certification program at George Washington University where he came up with the idea to organize a concert to benefit the homeless by asking street musicians to donate their talents. GW’s Lisner Auditorium became the setting for two concerts to benefit DC’s Coalition for the Homeless and led to many area food drives.
By the time of its founding two years later, the organization had redirected its mission. Campbell explains, “In 1994 I wanted to do something with kids and music. I’d met a photographer who was putting cameras in the hands of kids to give back and that was what it did it for me. I realized how powerful music was for kids.” He started with kids that wanted to play but had no access to musical instruments – kids in blighted neighborhoods, kids in schools with no music programs, needy kids whose families barely had enough money to put food on the table.
Across America funding has dried up for school cultural programs and entire music departments have shut down. But Campbell looks to revive the performing arts for kids who have little hope and few creative outlets – – one musical instrument at a time.
As expected the organization takes in monetary donations, but others give new or used musical instruments – horns that were neglected in favor of soccer, guitars outgrown and pianos gathering dust. Four times a year Campbell drives around the country in a van loaded to the gills with instruments promised to dozens of kids. He visits with grateful teachers and students from the Appalachian Mountains and out to the Midwest of Chicago and Milwaukee, then on down to the New Orleans’ Gulf Coast where they enthusiastically await his arrival. “It’s very therapeutic for me,” he admits. The rest of the year is dedicated to shipping instruments to needy kids.
Each spring, in tribute to Campbell’s Louisiana roots and New Orleans supporters, Hungry for Music hosts a zydeco-fueled Crawfish Boil in Alexandria (Read my coverage of that event here – https://whiskandquill.com/?p=1951). Summer brings the wildly popular, Cof-a-Que weekend fundraiser; a three-day BBQ competition and all-day-and-night music bash set on a Loudoun County farm beside a picturesque lake. In May 2013 Campbell will be in the Woodstock, NY area to host yet another benefit concert.
Throughout the year Campbell sells CDs compiled from songs donated by some of the country’s leading musicians like Bob Dylan, Bruce Springsteen, Paul Simon and others. The legendary bluegrass pioneer Hazel Dickens performed for one of their benefits shortly before she passed away.
The organization’s reach has expanded both nationally and overseas, helping children in places as far-flung as El Salvador. In Galax, Virginia, home to the country’s renowned Old Fiddler’s Convention, Campbell takes stringed instruments to the Junior Appalachian Musicians (JAM) a youth group founded by musician and elementary school counselor Helen White. Her initial program has grown to encompass 22 programs in three states and now serves more than 900 kids.
 MUSICAL VISION: Live Music and Art Auction On November 8th, Bluegrass, Blues and Jazz will converge at the Gibson Guitar VIP Showroom across from the National Portrait Gallery for the Hungry for Music Musical Visions: Live Music and Art Auction. The event will feature food and drink with live performances by local musicians. “Over 20 DC-based artists have transformed old donated violins, clarinets, flutes and guitars into art and photography for the silent auction. It’s a really cool performance space with guitars all over the walls,” Campbell says.
For more info on this event visit www.hungryformusic.com.
Jordan Wright
October 2012
Special to www.dcmetrotheaterarts.com, www.broadwaystars.com, and www.localkicks.com
When friends ask me where to dine before the theatre I try to respond authoritatively. But, alas, my brain turns to porridge as I mentally scroll through the limitless options. I try to hone it down by asking: Which theatre are you going to? What kind of food do you prefer? Do you need parking or Metro nearby? Want something hip and trendy, white linen chic or bold ethnic flavors? As an early diner there are great deals to be had before the swells arrive. Here are a few dazzling spots to choose from before the curtain rises on the evening’s entertainment. Madly sorry if I left out your favorite!
Both Rasika Penn Quarter and the new Rasika West End have a three-course pre-theatre menu for $35.00 Monday through Fridays from 5:30 till 6:30 PM and Saturdays from 5 till 6:30 PM. Dishes are derived from regions all across India. There’s Palak Chat and Sev Puri among other specialties and mains like Chicken Makhani, Lamb Roganjosh and Tandoori Salmon. Desserts register with Carrot Halwah with cinnamon sabayon and Gulab Jamun with ice cream.
 Crispy Spinach Chaat at Rasika These two stylish Indian restaurants are on the “Hot List” making it an affordable way to sample their wares. In the West End 1190 New Hampshire Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20037. For the Penn Quarter location 633 D Street, NW, Washington, DC 20004 www.RasikaRestaurant.com
At Ceiba the three-course early dinner is a mere $29.00 a pop. This upscale contemporary Latin-inspired resto gives you choices like Yucatan Shrimp or Peruvian Seviche and Cuban Black Bean Soup with ham and cheese croquet. Entrees are straight from the Dinner Menu with a $9.00 up charge for the Brazilian Seafood Stew, Churrasco Beef and Tower of Crab.
 Ceiba Restaurant – Photo credit Scott Suchman A delicate Flan or Chocolate and Banana Mousse Cake and seasonal sorbets wrap up the Conga line. Served Monday through Saturday 5:30 till 6:30PM. Sunday from 5 till 6:30PM. An extensive small plates Bar Menu for pre- and post-theatre is half price, and signature cocktails drop to a cheery $5.00. Check the site for exact times. 701 14th Street, NW, Washington, DC 20005 www.CeibaRestaurant.com
Dinner at the Oval Room across Lafayette Park from the White House is spectacular anytime but a three-course dinner served from 5:30 till 6:30 nightly is a mere $35.00. One of my favorite chefs in town, Tony Conte, wields an elegantly spare paradigm on Modern American cuisine. What a terrific way to experience his exceptional cuisine for half the price of a regular dinner! Is this really legal?
 The Oval Room at night Try the Corn Soup with sorrel, pine nuts and brown butter or Sashimi of Tuna with smoked tapioca, tamarind and buttermilk to start. Then it’s on to entrees like Rockfish with pumpkin seed pesto or Prime Rib with a cherry-chili relish. Conte gets playful with dessert and I’m all in on a Chocolate S’more Bombe with salted caramel. But wait! A Cherry Pie with pine nut brittle ice cream? Hmmmm…. Shouldn’t we just have dessert first? 800 Connecticut Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20006 www.OvalRoom.com
At 701 Restaurant Executive Chef Ed Witthas created a stunning three-course pre-theatre menu for $32.00 with lots of options to choose from. Appetizers like Fig and Arugula Salad with goat cheese, crispy guanciale with a vanilla vinaigrette; or Salmon Crudo with porcini powder, English peas and lemon agrumato oil raised my gastro antennae. Two of the entrées got my attention too – NY Strip Steak with corn-cheddar grits and zucchini relish, or Duck Leg with mango curry, jasmine rice and bok choy.
 Stylish cuisine by Executive Chef Ed Witt at 701 Restaurant Did I mention dessert? There are several options, but bring on the Pear Thyme Crème Brulee with spiced fruits and thank you very very much, Chef. Curbside valet parking is $8.00 with dinner validation Monday through Saturday. What a steal! 701 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20004 www.701Restaurant.com
Just off Pennsylvania Avenue is Fiola – the brainchild of celebrated chef Fabio Trabocchi, who was chosen to create last year’s Garden Café Italiano at the National Gallery of Artto complement the Venetian Exhibit. His $35.00 pre-theater menu served in a sleek modern setting doesn’t stint on elegance or ingredients.
 Fine dining at Fiola The opening act is either Prosciutto with rhubarb and Monte Enebro cheese, or Burrata made with buffalo mozzarella. Then choose from Branzino with a prosecco zabaglione; slow-cooked Ossobuco; or a light pasta dish. Desserts are Hazelnut Crusted Caramel Tart or the traditional Zuppa Inglese – a trifle made with raspberry and lemon granita. From 5:30 till 6:30PM. 601 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20004. www.FiolaDC.com
Central Michel Richardhas a brand new pre-theatre dinner for $35.00. So new it’s not even posted on their website yet! Richard’s consistently lovely at-your-Grandmére’s French cuisine will be a real treat for theatregoers and I heartily recommend it. Begin with a choice of Green Lentil Soup, Goat Cheese Caesar Salad, or Deviled Eggs with fresh boquerones – tiny marinated sardines. A trip to Atlantic City last week to try his new outpost at Revel afforded me the opportunity to sample some of these delicacies. (More deets on that in next week’s column.)
 Chicken Julia from Central Michel Richard Entrees are Mussels in white wine; Garlic Salmon with lemongrass emulsion; or Chicken Julia, a crisp roasted chicken named after Childs. End with Chocolate Lava Cake or Fig Tart both served with housemade ice cream or sorbet. You can even return to enjoy your dessert after the show! 1001 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20004 www.CentralMichelRichard.com
Johnny’s Half Shell is James Beard Award-Winning Chef Ann Cashion’s temple to Chesapeake and Gulf Coast sustainable seafood. This Capitol Hill destination is known for its Saturday night live Jazz and Blues performers and laid back atmosphere.
 Dining at Johnny’s Half Shell The three-course dinner is very specific and starts off with a mixed green salad before moving on to New Orleans-style File Gumbo Fillet of Catfish with shrimp and sausage risotto or Chicken Etouffee. Dessert is Angel Food Cake with Caramel Sauce. It’s $35.00 and is served nightly from 5 till 6:30 PM. We love the complimentary validated parking in an adjacent garage. 400 North Capitol Street, Washington, DC 20001 www.JohnnysHalfShell.net
Executive Chef Shannon Overmiller, formerly of Restaurant Eve, helms the kitchen at The Majestic – a cozy circa 1949 retro American restaurant in the heart of Old Town and within minutes of MetroStage and The Little Theatre of Alexandria. If you’re Metro’ing just hop the free trolley from the King Street station and exit at the front door. The cuisine is rustic with a decidedly modern twist. The $35.00 “Royal-Fixe” menu is available all evening. You simply select an appetizer, entrée and dessert from the regular dinner menu. Entrées come complete with sides – no need to order veggies a la carte. But do look for items identified with “crown” icons that have a clearly marked upcharge.
 The Majestic in Old Town Alexandria Still I like the Wild Mushroom Soup with caramelized onions and Appalachian cheese crostini, followed by the Amish Roast Chicken or the Chesapeake Bay Seafood Stew – no additional charge on any of these dishes! Desserts are plucked right from the dinner menu and include Brownie Sundae, Churros and Pumpkin Cake. 911 King Street, Alexandria, VA 22314 www.MajesticCafe.com
José Andrés’ ever-popular Jaleo outposts include the Downtown, Bethesda and Crystal City locations. All feature a three-course pre-theatre menu priced at $30.00 but items vary slightly. I noted a Gazpacho with Endive and Ensalata Russo as starters, Garlic Shrimp or Pan Seared Scallops; and for dessert a Flan from Andrés’ mother’s recipe, Arroz con Leche, or Hazelnut Mousse Cake. Check available times and locations on their website. Be sure to try the dinner-plus-ticket offer for Synetic Theater in Crystal City where there’s also free adjacent parking after 4PM. www.Jaleo.com
 Culinary creative genius Jose Andres
P.S. If you’re lottery-flush and with plenty of time to spare (I only mention it because some of us have been waiting for this news for a long time), his exceptional destination restaurant, Minibar by José Andrés, has reopened at last in a new location – 855 E Street, NW. Call months in advance for a reservation.
Jordan Wright
September 26, 2012
Special to www.dcmetrotheaterarts.com, www.broadwaystars.com, and www.localkicks.com
 Executive Chef Adam Goldman – Photo credit Jordan Wright Get Global
Masa 14has a special place in my heart. There’s just so much to like here. Bold flavors, super-creative fusion cuisine – think of it as Asia romances Latin America and Mexico. Add a great rooftop garden, super casual ambiance, an all-you-can-eat-and-drink brunch and yummy seasonally inspired food by and it’s a sure-fire winner. Last week I sampled the new fall offerings – Cornmeal Crusted Oysters with togarashi aioli, Roasted Beet Salad with curried goat cheese, and an ooh-and-aah Cream of Corn Soup with sweet corn tomato relish and lump crabmeat. At the same time the restaurant will present a series called “Melting Pot” to run one month per quarter starting with riffs on Asian-Brazilian dishes and drinks from Sao Paulo. Owned by über chefs Richard Sandoval and Kaz Okochi, Masa 14 has earned the street cred it deserves.
 Cream of Corn Soup Masa14 – Photo credit Jordan Wright For the $35 brunch and drinks deal first pick your poison. There’s Masa Mimosa, Galleata (made with Faretti Biscotti liqueur and OJ), Strawberry Lemonade, Lychee Bellini or Bacon Bloody Mary to put you in a laid back Sunday mood. Then go for in-house made flatbreads, salads, eggs dishes, sandwiches and Banh Mi burgers. You’ll need to order the brunch for your whole table to get in on this offer.
Another option is to go up one flight to the Banchan Rooftop Brunch. The three-course menu breaks the fast with a basket of bread, then four small salads to share, a choice of one entrée and one dessert. Tack on $15 for the bottomless brunch drinks. Entrees are house-made biscuits smothered in chorizo or sausage gravy with scrambled eggs; Oaxaca Herb Waffle with scrambled eggs and sausage gravy and a side of spinach and arugula; or a grilled Monte Cristo made with crushed Masago rice crackers and served with agave syrup for dipping. There’s also the Masa pizza topped with Oaxacan cheese, bacon, prosciutto and pico de gallo or a fantastic Cuban sandwich that subs pork belly in place of pork tenderloin. Seafood comes in the form of Roasted Salmon with Oaxacan cheese polenta and salsa verde. Follow with chocolate tart, sopapillas, banana and chocolate spring rolls, or fruit empanadas then string up a hammock for your siesta. www.Masa14.com.
 AOL Jan Brandt shows Custom Boots – Photo credit Jordan Wright South of the Border in Clarendon
Bursting onto the Clarendon scene is Fuego Cocina and Tequileria, a Latin explosion hotter than Pancho Villa’s spent pistol. It’s the current brainchild of successful restauranteurs and partners Jeff Tunks, Gus DiMillo and David Wizenberg of the Passion Food Hospitality Group. The two-level paean to Mexican cooking has a wide range of dishes from antonitos and tacos to botanos (small snacks) and entrees like posole and carne asada, a grilled skirt steak served with nopales salad. Meats are cooked low and slow and falling off the bone. Fish are seared or fried. A whole trout is crisp and succulent with Cholula aioli for dipping. This is a highly ambitious menu with over 65 dishes including nine varieties of tacos in which roasted goat, shrimp, pork, beef short ribs and tilapia appear in starring roles. Authentic ingredients like huitlacoche, the Aztec fermented corn, epazote, the ancient fresh herb, and mole negro, the deep dark chocolate-infused sauce, appear alongside the hipper duck confit which gets incorporated into a traditional flauta. Fuego’s Chef de Cuisine Alfredo Solis, who has cooked at Zola, Ceiba, Acadiana, DC Coast, District Commons and Ten Penh, can at last cook from his Mexican roots. Olé to that!
 Prickly Pear Margarita – Photo credit Jordan Wright On the street level a long serpentine bar soars to the rafters with over 120 tequilas. I went for the Prickly Pear Margarita. Tame but hydrating. Up a gracious winding staircase is the expansive second story with a bird’s eye view of the downstairs and the peek-a-boo kitchen at work. Black leather low-backed booths stretch down the center of the room in a sleek space designed to see and be seen. Along the far wall a twelve-foot raised fireplace anchors the scene – a sweet spot to cozy up in winter. www.FuegoVA.com.
 Chef and Restauranteur Cathal Armstrong – Photo credit Jordan Wright American Cuisine at the National Gallery’s Garden Café
The Smithsonian’s National Gallery of Art continues with its theme of pairing up food and drink with current high profile exhibits. October is the opening of Masterpieces of American Furniture, a spectacular installation of American Chippendale furniture, portraiture and decorative arts from the distinguished George and Linda Kaufman collection. Following in the very large footsteps of Chefs Jose Andres, Fabio Trabocchi and Michel Richard, famed local chef and restauranteur Cathal Armstrong partners with the Garden Café’s Executive Chef David Rogers to offer American regional cuisine in the Garden Café Americana.
 American Chippendale Collection of Kaufmann – Photo credit Jordan Wright Armstrong who has built a considerable empire in Alexandria, VA with The Majestic, Virtue Feed & Grain, Eammon’s – A Dublin Chipper, PX, TNT Bar, Society Fair and Restaurant Eve, hails from Ireland but has been offering regional American cuisine right alongside Irish fare since coming to our area.
“It’s a tremendous honor for an immigrant like me to showcase an American menu,” Armstrong told me. “I drew from the quintessentially American dishes of the 1700’s to the 1850’s to create the menu and to reflect the same period of the exhibit. The American palate is extraordinarily broad. I thought about the South, the Pacific Rim influences and the Burgundian climate of the Northwest. For me it was inspiring.”
On his interest in the art world he explained, “My wife Michelle was a former student at the Corcoran and art has always been a part of our home life. In Ireland I did carpentry and joinery for my uncle, a master Chippendale style cabinetmaker, who once made a wedding cabinet with 21 secret compartments and a dollhouse for Laura Ashley’s daughter.”
 Glazed Root Vegetable Salad – Photo credit Jordan Wright His fall/winter menu features refined comfort food like Glazed Root Vegetable Salad with rosemary and toasted garlic vinaigrette and Roasted Butternut Squash Salad with toasted pumpkin seeds. Braised Beef with aromatic vegetables and a Turkey Pot Pie served with a buttermilk biscuit show Armstrong’s reverence for the South. A warm apple pie with vanilla ice cream revealed a tender buttery crust and the Georgia Pecan Pie with caramel sauce was spot on. The buffet is lavish, assorted breads, a cheese plate, salad, entrée and dessert. At $20.75 per person it’s quite affordable.
A small selection of American beer and wines are available. Alexandria’s Port City Brewing Company’s Optimal Wit makes an appearance as do several vintages from Virginia’s Rockbridge Vineyards. Mixologist Todd Thrasher contributes a few snappy cocktails to the list with a Bourbon Milk Punch and a refreshing Gin Rickey. Museum going just got a whole lot merrier! www.nga.gov/dining.
 Author and Executive Chef Mike Isabella – Photo credit Jordan Wright “Down The Shore” with Mike Isabella
Jersey born and bred Mike Isabella has a passion for food – earthy, soul-stretching, heart-stirring Italian food – and he’s decided to share it with the home cook. His new cookbook Crazy Good Italian (Da Capo Press Lifelong Books) takes you into the kitchen with his nonna to teach you the family’s recipes. Included in the over 150 recipes that speak to his Italian roots is his famous Pepperoni Sauce, the one that wowed the judges on Bravo’s “Top Chef”. Isabella has gotten to be a familiar fixture not only on television, where he was seen in a cameo appearance on “Life After Top Chef”, but also around the DC area with his casual resto Graffiato and M Street venture Bandelero.
 Smoked Olives with Baby Bellas – Photo credit Jordan Wright At Graffiato where he held his book launch and signing, samples of some of the book’s recipes were served up to an adoring crowd and Isabella proved to be the ever-gracious host. Counters were piled high with delicacies like Crispy Baby Goat on Creamy Polenta, Smoked Olives with baby bellas, and Rainbow Cookies made with tri-colored almond paste drew knowing foodies. This moment was the culmination of years of hard work and the young chef knew it was a helluva lot easier than working the line. “This is everything I’ve worked towards and here it is, and it’s mine,” he said, knowing this was his shining hour. www.graffiatodc.com.
Jordan Wright
September 22, 2012
Special to www.dcmetrotheaterarts.com, www.broadwaystars.com, and www.localkicks.com
 Individually numbered limited edition Hennessey’s V.S. Cognac bottle with a new Futura-designed label What is so extraordinary about legendary graffiti artist Futura, neé Leonard McGurr, is that at a mere 57 years old he has outlived so many others of his genre and generation and continued to triumph in the Paris, Tokyo and New York art worlds, where he enjoys patronage and support from leading fashion designer Agnes B. and international art critics.
A fixture on the New York City scene in the ‘70’s with the late graffiti artists Keith Haring, Dondi and Jean-Michel Basquiat with whom he shared space at the Fun Gallery, Futura has enjoyed a resurgence of appreciation for his abstract street art and can command upwards of $200K a pop for his space age surrealism. Defined by his pioneering thin-lined style of aerosol art, now referred to as “Graffuturism”, he has been known for painting backdrops on stage during concerts with The Clash, album covers for Unkle, and designing edgy street fashion under the name of Futura Laboratories.
Earlier this week we met up at Smith Commons restaurant in the trendy Atlas neighborhood for the launch of the individually numbered limited edition Hennessey’s V.S. Cognacbottle with a new Futura-designed label.
 Futura autographing Jordan Wright – What were some of your early influences?
Futura – Let me take you back to the 1964 World’s Fair and the Unisphere. I was fourteen, and I saw a fantastic experience of what the world was going to be like. All the New York City schools were busing kids out there to see it. That was my first indication that we lived in a really big world.
By 1969 Neil Armstrong was landing on the moon and it was the Vietnam War. I was going to school on the subway and seeing graffiti on the trains and I became inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey. I had read Alvin Toffler’s Future Shock and I was into sci-fi, but the seed was planted by the World’s Fair. The future sounded promising. We would have more advanced technology, something I have always been fascinated by.
JW – Everything was about supersonic travel and food was jet-puffed back then.
F – Oh yeah, I had to have my Tang. That’s what the astronauts were drinking. I felt very connected to what my perception of the future was going to be. It wasn’t just jet packs but Dick Tracy two-way radios and face time, whatever we have in our toolbox of technology. It was the Golden Era of that movement in New York.
JW – Who did you hang out with?
F – In 1974 I joined the Navy and was stationed on a carrier in Alameda [California]. I remember I was at the 1980 Grateful Dead show in Oakland. I had been brought out there with a crew from New York, ‘manicurists’ who were out there to ‘clip’ marijuana. None of us had been told why we were there. I remember the Hare Krishnas and sprouts and carrot juice.
I was running around at night and painting but it wasn’t until the 1980’s in New York when uptown and downtown came together on a social platform and the alternative galleries in the East Village began to dominate the early 1980’s art scene. It was Basquiat, Haring, Scharf, myself, Dondi, Zephyr, a veritable who’s who. Some came from the subway school of art, some more traditional. Basquiat, the great artist that he was, came from nothing but he was very clever. He knew about art history and had all the answers. He was more calculated, writing these provocative and powerful phrases, and he was very prolific too. But it was Haring that commercialized the art. And Andy’s big show at the MOMA had a huge impact. But I wasn’t one of Warhol’s group. I was homophobic back then and felt uncomfortable in the gay world. I regret the ignorance I grew up with.
JW – Graffiti was considered unacceptable then. People were talking about what products would facilitate its removal and what kind of machines could blast it off surfaces. When did it begin to become an acceptable art form?
F – In the beginning of that period it was, “How did it all progress beyond where it was?” And in a sense the rudimentary graffiti that still exists anywhere you go, is made by some kid with a can or marker and some sort of rebellious energy to express themselves. It’s unfortunate but it’s always going to remain on some lower level. There’s nothing productive or beautiful about it. It’s like a dog pissing on a fire hydrant. There’s always going to be what we call a “toy”, someone at the bottom of the barrel, and then you have your masters who are more mature and know their place in the system.
When graffiti was being cleaned from trains and security was increased to prevent it, artists could no longer access subways. Today it’s hard to paint on trains anywhere in the world from Russia and Tokyo to Sao Paulo and India. But why did we have a decade of street art? Because it’s the most accessible to artists.
JW – Do you still paint on the streets?
F – Oh no. I just had an opening in New York this week at Valmorbida on Washington Street and sold a painting for $190K. It was very large, 8 feet high by 16 feet wide. That will help out my family a lot. I’m in the middle of a renaissance. It’s great. Recently my Paris gallery bought several of my earlier paintings to get them off the market and control the market. Now they can control the inventory and offer new work too. I’m happy to see a great price for my work at auction. It’s a secondary market that the galleries use to sell my new work.
JW – How do we encourage younger artists coming up?
F – I’ve always told younger artists to first and foremost have a sense of humor. Don’t allow others to dictate what your process or vision is. It’s uniquely yours. Today there are more artists then ever. Back then you had to think on your feet and be creative. I see our society as seventy percent lazy. Nowadays artists don’t have to paint illegally. They can just ask a business to do a mural on their walls. There are ways to do public works today. So artists need to be more entrepreneurial, take advantage, be more forward thinking – not wait for the opportunity to come to them.
JW – What’s next for you?
F – I’ll be continuing my tour with Hennessey. We started in August going to cities throughout the US. Now we head to London, Paris and Tokyo. In 2014 I have a proper Rizzoli book coming out. I had a book in 2000 that sold out. I tried to buy a new copy online and it’s now selling for $500. Prior to myself Hennessey co-branded with artist KAWS. I’ll be doing a show in Tokyo next June and of course I’m still making work in my Brooklyn studio.
Interview with Futura conducted, condensed and edited by Jordan Wright.
 Futura Artist at interview with Jordan Wright
Jordan Wright
September 19th, 2012
Special to www.dcmetrotheaterarts.com, www.broadwaystars.com, and www.localkicks.com
 Top Chef Alumni Spike Mendelsohn Hosts Kraut Rocks Competition Kraut Rocks is the hipster appellation promoters have conferred upon a sauerkraut competition involving five of DC area leading chefs. Steered by Bravo’s Top Chef alumni Spike Mendelsohn, the contest is sponsored by Great Lakes Kraut (GLK), a century-old company and largest producer of sauerkraut in the world. GLK is the maker of the KRRRRISP Kraut, as well as the Bavarian style Silver Floss Sauerkraut that boasts a hint of caraway and Courtland Valley, an organic kraut with healthful probiotic benefits.
It’s an intriguing concept from a company looking to introduce the region’s younger generation to the wonders of sauerkraut. Revered in France, Eastern Europe and throughout the Slavic states, the fermented cabbage has yet to enjoy the same hoopla in our area. (N.B. Costco has recently ceased offering it with its in-store hotdogs.)
Before refrigeration pickled and fermented vegetables were in every family larder and rows of glistening Mason jars contained the jewels of the growing season providing nutritious eating throughout Northern winters as well as an appealingly tart accompaniment for Southerners when it was too dang hot to cook.
Kraut Rocks puts the classic ingredient into the hands of edgy chefs like Teddy Folkman of Granville Moore, Fabrice Reymond of Redline GastroLounge, Ian Reeves of The Queen Vic British Pub, Ryan Wheeler of Virtue Feed & Grain and Erik Bruner-Yang of Toki Underground, and that’s where the transformation from age-old condiment to trendy ingredient takes shape.
Throughout the month of September voters choose their favorite dish online at KrautRocks.com. Dishes can order the dishes at all four restaurants and a $250 restaurant gift certificate to the winning chef’s restaurant will be awarded as a grand prize in the Kraut Rocks Online Sweepstakes, second grand prize winner scores a $250 gift certificate to one of Mendelsohn’s multiple restaurants. In addition there are five first prizes of Kraut Rocks restaurant gift certificates, merchandise and exclusive access to special events hosted by Kraut Rocks’ chefs.
Whisk and Quill spoke to Spike Mendelsohn and some of the chefs this week.
Jordan Wright – Where did you get the idea to do Kraut Rocks?
SM – It was Krispy Kraut and I was honored to team up with them. They approached me after reading about stuff I’d done with kraut.
JW – Has it been done anywhere before?
SM – Nope! It’s the first time ever in the company’s history. They were debating which city to host it in and settled on DC because the food scene here is growing at a very fast rate. They are trying to take the fear out of fermentation, the process also used to make beer and pizza dough. The idea is to make kraut more fun and creative.
JW – How did you select the chefs involved and what does each one bring to the table so to speak?
SM – I’m a DC chef now and have been following the food scene here. I wanted chefs whose careers were born here and also tried to choose from different neighborhoods like Chinatown and Alexandria. Ultimately the company chose the chefs they wanted to participate.
JW – Is Mike Isabella in on this?
SM – Mike helped judge. But it’s the consumers that choose the winning dish.
JW – What were the rules in regards to ingredients, technique and final product?
No rules at all!
JW – Have you ever heard about sauerkraut being used in a chocolate cake?
SM – Yes, we talked about it but I’ve never tried it.
JW – Would you say these are dishes easily made by the home cook?
SM – Definitely all the dishes that were presented could be done at home. It’s one of the things the chefs kept in mind.
JW – Are they currently being served in their respective restaurants?
SM – Yes, all the dishes can be ordered throughout the month of September.
JW – Can you talk about your early experiences with pickling and kraut?
SM – When I did my formal training in the South of France there’s a dish there called choucroute, which I used to prepare when I was at Cirque in NYC. It’s very wholesome and very delicious. It’s one of my favorites. Oh, and I love to snack on kimchee.
JW – Why was DC selected for the competition?
SM – They chose markets that weren’t big to get new people turned on to kraut and raise awareness. It’s been one of the most enjoyable campaigns to work on highlighting DC chefs.
JW – What’s next for you?
SM – The Good Stuff Eatery expansion continues, as well as Life After Top Chef a show that follows my family and me around. It’ll debut in October. I’ll be on an upcoming Iron Chef and I have a new steak frites restaurant called Bearnaise opening up on Capital Hill.
 Executive Chef Ian Reeves of The Queen Vic British Pub Ian Reeves, one of the contestants and Executive Chef of The Queen Vic British Pub on H Street in the newly revitalized Atlas District spoke to Whisk and Quill.
JW – Have you ever been in a single product competition before?
IR – No, but it’s been a good experience and well received.
JW – Do you use sauerkraut regularly in the Queen Vic?
IR – We’ve had it on the menu before but we normally make our own. I do like using this product though. It’s a fine shred.
JW– How did you come up with your dish that so far is the top pick?
IR – I just thought of using it as the star of the dish and combining it with pork and apples. I’m using the Red Delicious, which are in season now in Virginia.
 Pork Loin with Sauerkraut and Apples JW – What are your earliest experiences with kraut?
IR – My first experience was in Munich about three years ago. I was there for a wedding and had it at a bierhaus.
JW – Do you rinse or soak it first?
IR – I squeezed some of the liquid off since I was doing some caramelizing in the pan. But not usually if it’s a good product such as this is.
JW – Have guests been ordering this dish?
IR – Absolutely it’s been quite popular. I’ve already gone through half of the thirty pounds I requested while using about six ounces per plate.
JW – Would you say it’s brought new customers into your restaurant?
IR– There are definitely new faces ordering this dish.
 Executive Chef Ryan Wheeler of Virtue Feed & Grain Ryan Wheeler is the Executive Chef of Virtue Feed & Grain and trained under Cahal Armstrong, celebrated Irish chef and owner of Virtue and Restaurant Eve.
JW – Is sauerkraut something you serve at Virtue?
RW – Typically we make our own in house and serve it with a Polish style sausage.
JW – What was the inspiration for your dish?
RW– When I signed on I wanted to do something that embodies what we do at Virtue – something out of the box. So I made Scotch eggs and put sauerkraut inside.
 Scotch Eggs with Sauerkraut JW – What are your earliest memories of kraut?
RW – As a kid my parents would have it in the fall as an Oktoberfest meal. That was my first exposure and so I’ve had it with schnitzel and spaetzle.
JW – Do you rinse or soak it first?
RW – No. I enjoy the taste of brine and the good taste from the salt. Though we do braise it here, which softens it up a bit.
JW – Do you find guests are ordering this dish?
RW – As a special, yes! We’ve sold about 120 eggs so far averaging about 15 a day.
JW – How have you introduced diners to the competition?
RW – We do a good job of promoting it with table tents and menu inserts with the Kraut Rocks logo. The whole team has been involved. It’s been good fun and I’ve enjoyed the process. I would encourage new chefs to get involved with challenging competitions like this. We plan to put the Scotch eggs on our menu even after the competition is over.
To vote for your favorite sauerkraut dish, watch videos of the ongoing competition, and get all the recipes to prepare at home, go to www.Krautrocks.com.
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