Jordan Wright
February 2, 2015
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
 Chef Chris Lusk At forty-one, East Texas native and Johnson & Wales grad, Chris Lusk has seen the ins and outs of a few restaurant kitchens and learned a wide variety of international cuisines. After an externship in an Irish hotel he cooked Tex-Mex at Stephen Pyles’ Star Canyon in Dallas, Asian cuisine at an unnamed restaurant in Florida, and Italian at Otto Enoteca under Mario Batali. Later he worked with the iconic Brennan family’s Foodie’s Kitchen in Metairie and more recently at Commander’s Palace and Café Adelaide where he honed his Creole and Southern-style cooking. He is now Chef de Cuisine at Restaurant R’evolution in New Orleans.
At DC’s Acadiana in a room filled with shuckers, chefs, industry lobbyists and oyster lovers at the Gulf Oyster Industry Council’s Washington, DC event last month, I met Lusk over a platter of his incredible Crispy Oysters Rockefeller.
Jordan Wright – Can you describe the twist you put on the classic dish?
Chris Lusk – Traditionally it would be served on the half shell with a puree of purslane, chives, capers and other greens, then spiked with absinthe. Though it’s often spiked with Herbsaint, it really hadn’t been invented yet. So absinthe is used. Then it would be finished with breadcrumbs. My version has a crust made from dehydrated spinach, chives, green onions, breadcrumbs and Parmesan. Then it’s garnished with more Parmesan and a pesto made of green onions, chives and olive oil then spiked with absinthe. To prepare the oysters we drained the liquor off and marinated them the pesto then rolled in the breadcrumb mix. The crust really adheres to it. Then we flash fry them till oyster begins to plump and it’s still moist inside and crispy on the outside.
What we’re getting at this time of year is a smaller oyster. They go through phases during the year. I prefer to use a medium-sized oyster. At this time of year they are thriving in the cool water and they’re the perfect size and salinity.
You’ve been named one of Esquire magazine’s “Four Breakout Chefs to Watch”, cooked at the James Beard House and won the Louisiana Seafood Cookoff. What’s next?
I don’t know. I have a larger operation and bigger kitchen here with Restaurant R’evolution in New Orleans, and have a lot going on right now. They just opened their second restaurant, Seafood R’evolution outside of Jackson, MS in Ridgeland. It’s similar in concept but with more seafood.
Can you tell us about the dessert you prepared which prompted Esquire’s John Mariani’s to award you the “Best Dessert of 2011”?
It was a white chocolate biscuit pudding, a play on a dish my grandmother made when I was growing up. New Orleans is famous for bread pudding so my spin on it was what I was exposed to as a child where my grandmother used the leftover biscuits from breakfast. I took that inspiration and added white chocolate and a bit of Barq’s Root Beer Syrup on top, it’s an iconic soft drink that once was made here. Then I fried some pecans, which are from around here, as a garnish and I serve it with white chocolate ice cream.
I was very fortunate growing up to be exposed to farming. Growing up I spent summers with my grandparents who were farmers and I learned about canning and pickling using ingredients from the farm. My other grandparents were ranchers and raised cattle and hogs so we made sausage and used different cuts of meat. I’m thankful that I had the opportunity to learn about farming and ranching growing up.
I understand you are continuing your study of both Cajun and Creole cuisines. Can you talk about the differences between these two venerable cuisines?
Creole is more of the refined version of the French, Italian, German, and even African influences and Cajun reflects the more rustic, spicier and bolder flavors. Most Cajun is one-pot meals like jambalaya, gumbos, chicken fricasee and etoufées. What you see in New Orleans are the French dishes indicative of Creole. The use of Pernod, Herbsaint and absinthe lean more towards the Creole side. Although a lot of the lines have become blurred now – – and you can see the Creole and Cajun coming together.
Would you say you’re a fan of Paul Prudhomme, Emeril Lagasse or Justin Wilson?
That’s a hard question because I’m a fan of all of them for different reasons. Justin Wilson gave the first glimpse of what Cajun regional cuisine is. Prudhomme went to the next level with blackened fish, K-Paul’s and Commander’s Palace. He really put it out there on a larger scale. Then Emeril took it one step further. Those three guys have enabled me and my generation and the generation after mine to do what we do in New Orleans. Those guys are the ones that gave the younger chefs the opportunity to push the boundaries.
What are your favorite cookbooks?
I have Lafcadio Hearn and many others. My cookbook collection is all over the place – – Paul Prudhomme, Wilson’s books, Harold McGee and many others have influenced me in my style of cooking, including a lot of ethnic cookbooks that I use in different techniques of frying or pickling – like Japanese for instance. I learn from everyone including my dishwashers and sous chefs. You can never become too educated to learn from someone. Some of the most amazing meals I’ve ever had have been staff meals. The thing about New Orleans is everybody can cook here!
Opened in 1880 Commander’s Palace is one of the great American restaurants of all time. What did you learn while you were there?
That’s when I really started my education apart from culinary school. It really opened my eyes to Southern food. I learned a lot.
What signature dishes are you preparing at Restaurant R’evolution, the French Quarter spot where you are cooking now?
One of the dishes I recently put on was inspired by Vietnamese cuisine. It’s a Hoisin Glazed Grouper tied in with a blue crab pho broth and served with lightly pickled vegetables and rice noodles.
What new ingredients or techniques are on your radar these days?
I’m using lot of Asian ingredients like four different types of soy sauce such as Japanese and Filipino for curing eggs and making marinades, also different types of fish sauce and Indian spices. Sometimes just for myself I make sushi rice with marinated cobia and fresh wasabi. I’m inspired by the Vietnamese fishermen we have here.
Who was your first inspiration in the kitchen?
My grandparents were farmers and raised cattle and grandpa made sausage, things that are very popular now, so I was really fortunate as a child. I lived in a small city but spent summers with my grandparents who had a lot of land. We’d sit around and shuck corn, pick peas and can together. We do a lot of that at the restaurant pickles, jams etc. My grandpa used to clean out Coke bottles and make his own tomato juice and put the caps back on them. Man, that was the best tomato juice I’ve ever had!
What was the first dish you learned to cook and who did you serve it to?
I learned to make scrambled eggs as a child that I served to my mom and dad. I’m sure they were pretty rubbery and overcooked, but they were pretty nice about it.
What famous person would you like to prepare dinner for?
Thomas Keller.
Wow! No stress there.
Ha! No stress in that! I’m a big fan!
Jordan Wright
January 14, 2015
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
 Chef Peter Chang One of the featured chefs for the Sips & Suppers dinners coming up next week is Peter Chang – an elusive chef known for ditching restaurant kitchens like a discardable cell phone. At last he has found in another accomplished chef, Gen Lee, the perfect partner to build an empire. The duo has already opened six successful restaurants around Virginia, with Arlington scheduled to open early February and another outpost in Rockville in March.
I’ve been a lucky duck to sample his cuisine twice in my life – once at a sumptuous banquet when he was the executive chef at DC’s Chinese Embassy in the 90’s, though I wasn’t aware he was the chef that oversaw the dozens of dishes offered at that lavish banquet. Years later on a hot tip I sought out his cooking at an obscure Chinese restaurant in a strip mall at the corner of Duke and Van Dorn in Alexandria.
Chang doesn’t dumb down his food for American palates. And it’s not for the faint of heart. As I recall the dish was the hottest, saltiest and most addictive chili pepper chicken I’d ever experienced. I have never forgotten it. By the time I planned on a return visit, he had scampered off for parts unknown leaving a trail of desperate fanatics in his wake.
Chang, who speaks no English, allows Gen Lee to act as his spokesperson. The two have cooked together for many years.
Whisk and Quill – Do you see everything in a yin/yang balance?
Gen Lee – Yes. It’s always going to be like that for us. In Sichuan Province it is very hot and wet and filled with trees. People who live there have to eat a lot of spicy food that’s why they use the Sichuan peppers.
Does Peter cook in one of the VA restaurants now?
Not on a daily basis. He cooks for parties and special events, but he also checks on every restaurant on a weekly basis. He’s very strict about that. I can’t tell you which restaurant he is cooking in at any given time, but he’s always cooking and he’s always training his cooks to get it right. We’re happy if its 90% right, because our recipes are very, very difficult. We don’t use sauce. For ten years when Peter and I worked as corporate chefs on a riverboat on the Yangtze River, we did the real, real Sichuan there.
How young was Peter when he first started cooking?
He was in high school. He always knew he wanted to cook and he went to cooking school at 18. He always watched his grandma cooking and helped her make lots of vegetarian dishes. You know, we don’t use much meat, but lots of vegetables mushrooms and such.
Does Peter listen to music when he’s cooking?
No, it’s very difficult. Everything is very quick. There are 20 different spices – different ones for different dishes – and it all happens fast.
What are some of the restaurants’ signature dishes?
The cumin lamb chops and bamboo fish, and everyone orders the dry-fried eggplant cut like steak fries.
Would you say your dishes are classic Sichuan?
Yes, it’s his specialty. But, for example, they don’t use lamb chops in China and the difference is the ingredients are better quality here.
Lately American chefs are using Asian ingredients in fusion cuisine and mixing things up. Where do you see this going?
A lot of chefs try it using French techniques. They are not using the real Chinese techniques and that worries me. These chefs are not Chinese. They are Hispanic or Korean. There are only a handful of real Chinese chefs here in America.
Chinese food has been losing favor to Thai and Korean in the past decade or so. Do you hope to bring back Chinese food to its earlier popularity?
Our dream is to bring back the real Chinese food, not just to make money. In a few years we know we can retire, but it’s not about that. Right now we have six restaurants. Already in our Richmond restaurant we are doing 500-600 a day. It’s like a war zone with like 100 people in line every day.
Will you be opening in the Northern Virginia area soon?
Yes, we will have two more restaurants – – one in Arlington and soon after in Rockville.
This interview was conducted, edited and condensed by Jordan Wright.
Dozens of prestigious local, national and world-renowned chefs will prepare the Sips & Suppers dinners on Sunday, January 25th. A separate evening of chef’s treats and cocktails takes place on Saturday, January 24th. Expect appearances by Joan Nathan, Jose Andres and Alice Waters. For further information and to purchase tickets to the fundraiser for Martha’s Table and DC Central Kitchen visit www.sips2015.eventbrite.com and www.suppers2015.eventbrite.com.
Jordan Wright
December 19, 2014
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
Photo credit – Jordan Wright
City Perch and iPic Provides a Total Entertainment Experience at Pike & Rose, Chef Switcheroo at Bibiana and Mio, Chris Pearmund’s New Wine-Opoly – Are You Smarter Than a Sommelier?, Hard Cider and Cool Notes at Iota, New Winter Menu at NGA’s Garden Café
City Perch and iPic – Roll the Credits!
Located in the Pike & Rose shopping destination in North Bethesda (Make that Rockville if you want to find it on MapQuest) iPic the latest innovation for moviegoers. The cutting edge theater concept takes it to a whole new level with features like plush leather recliners operating with the touch of a button and personal pillows and blankets. This movie theater combines the coziness of a home theater with the luxury of upscale dining. No need to stand in line for food or drink. A seat-side button beckons a server to take your order.
 Sherry Yard at City Perch with her creme puffs The theater is on the same level as City Perch restaurant and both the iPicExpress menu, called ‘dining in the dark” and the more gourmet City Perch restaurant menu, have been conceptualized by Sherry Yard, the James Beard Foundation recognized pastry chef, who has worked alongside Wolfgang Puck for many years.
 City Perch Executive Chef Matt Baker hams it up on opening night City Perch Executive Chef Matt Baker, formerly of The Occidental, helms the state-of-the-art kitchen while noted Mixologist and Master Sommelier, Adam Seger, formerly of Per Se, has designed the wine and cocktail program. Try his new “Roll in the Hay” seasonal cocktail made with Belle Isle Moonshine and Laird & Company Apple Brandy and roll the credits, please.
Mio and Bibiana Get New Chefs
Roberto Hernandez is the new Executive Chef at Mio, the place for Latin American cuisine that keeps its emphasis on the classic dishes of Puerto Rico.
 Mio Executive Chef, Roberto Hernandez makes the mofungo tableside Hernandez likes to blend modern with rustic. His mofongo, made tableside, is so authentic I thought I heard Jennifer Lopez singing “Plenarriquena”! Try the newly instituted Saturday brunch.
 Seviches at Mio And in other switcheroos Nick Stephanelli leaves Bibiana Osteria-Enoteca to open his own spot. Expect Jake Addeo to bring his sophisticated Italian cuisine to the popular New York Avenue restaurant.
Test Your Virginia Wine Savvy with Wine-opoly
Working with Vineyard Manager DeAnna D’Attilo, Chris Pearmund of Pearmund Cellars has come up with a challenging game for all you winos out there. They call it Wine-Opoly and 22 Virginia wineries have signed on to join in the fun. Using “deed cards” containing information on each of the wineries, and game cards with details on local viticulture and oenology, the board game aims to promote the Virginia wine industry. Here’s how it works. Railroads are wine trails and the “Go To Jail” card is “Go To Rehab”, which would be worse than jail, because as everybody knows, you can’t bail yourself out of rehab. Hot off the press (printing, not wine), you can snag one at Pearmund and participating VA wineries. www.PearmundCellars.com
Hard Cider and Cool Notes at Iota
Last month I dropped into Iota in Clarendon to hear a band I’d been following for awhile. Grownup Noise is a quirky, smart, tuneful group out of Cambridge, MA who write their own exquisitely melodic songs. Boston Herald’s Music Critic Jeff Gottlieb calls their latest album, The Problem with Living in the Moment, “a suite” for its sweeping orchestration. In my playbook they stand out as accomplished musicians in their own right, but they’re also nice guys, articulate and kindhearted, and a beautiful Asian kickass female drummer. Though they had originally been billed as the “B” act the headliners showed up with only two musicians giving Grownup Noise the status they deserve. Manna to their fans. Here’s the video for their single “Astronomy as Therapy” which manages to blend banjo sound with gorgeous violin strains. It puts me in mind of the soundtrack from On Cold Mountain.
 Grownup Noise at the Iota In the cozy brick-walled club I began to read over the bar menu and noticed a few hard ciders. I went with Bold Rock Hard Cider’s “Virginia Draft”, a golden-hued cider on the sweeter side from a Virginia company who now claims seven varieties, from dry to sweet to full-bodied. Instantly the crisp, clean apple taste recollected my first bottle of hard cider at the now-shuttered Les Halles. A chain of French restaurants based in New York City, it’s where Anthony Bourdain once ruled the kitchen early in his career.
 Bold Rock Hard Cider – Virginia Draft On that sunny day we were there to watch the French waiter races, a tradition that had started at Dominique’s famously posh celebrity haunt in DC and now continues with Paul bakery further down Pennsylvania Avenue. In any case, I believe I was hooked on cider that day. It’s funny how a flavor memory can bring up the people, the place and the moment in time when you had a palate epiphany. Back then hard cider wasn’t a common beverage and this was a French cider. I didn’t see it on any bar lists, and soon forgot about it.
 Scallop Crudo and Salt Roasted and Pickled Beets with House Made Goat Milk Ricotta Fast forward to a few years ago, a cosmic blip in the beverage industry, when hard cider burst upon the scene. Nowadays there are quite a few cideries, even breweries, dabbling in the production of these delicious, low-alcohol, apple-based fermented drinks and many of them are in Virginia where the apple is king. N. B. They are not “brewed” as beer is. They are “fermented”. I am not a physicist.
 Pan Seared Striped Bass with Roasted Pumpkin and Cranberry Bean-Quinoa Pilaf, Silk Road Chutney, Shagbark Hickory Syrup and Pumpkin Seed Oil and Compressed Beef Short Rib, Black Kale, Mushroom Confit and Celery Root Purée At National Geographic’s farm-to-table dinner last week, Albemarle CiderWorks “Red Hill” cider was paired with scallop crudo on Executive Chef Matthew Crudder’s 5-course dinner. The delicately dry cider is made with Winesap and Pippin apples, the perfect match for the chilled raw mollusk. Think Chardonnay as a reference point. And where’s that Christmas ham?
 Spiced Banana Cake and Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Hazelnut Praline Powder, Bananas Foster Gel and Dark Chocolate Sauce Garden Café at the National Gallery of Art
Michel Richard has done it again! The winter menu he has created for the Garden Café at the National Gallery of Art is absolutely divine!
Let’s face it. Most of us can’t afford to eat at Central Michel Richard, the chef’s pricey Pennsylvania Avenue outpost. But in the beautiful fountain-graced café, a stone’s throw from the Degas exhibit, you’ll find his latest menu has echoes of the dishes he turns out in his American-with-a-French twist restaurant.
 Pumpkin Bisque at the Garden Cafe – Roasted Fennel with Apples and Cranberries Salad – Roasted Buttermut Squash with Grains and Brussels Sprouts Designed to dovetail with the Degas exhibit, this menu is all French and keeps winter away with crusty olive fougasse; pumpkin bisque with toasted pumpkin seeds; roasted fennel with pears and cranberries; arugula salad with roasted beets, apples, pecans and champagne vinaigrette; and roasted butternut squash with Brussels sprouts. And that’s just the beginning. An entrée of braised Cornish hen with roasted lemons beckons, and crème brulee with fresh berries finishes it off nicely. Find me another menu in town as fabulous as this at $20.75 for all you can eat. I dare you!
Oh, and did I mention Richard was recently conferred with the insignia of Chevalier de la Legion d’honneur? That officially puts him in the pantheon of the Greatest French Chefs ever! Okay, Michel. You may now rest on your laurels.
Star Chefs Celebrates Our Best Chefs 
Last week I mentioned the upcoming StarChefs “Rising Stars” event was going to be stellar. And it was. Award winners were in great spirits, especially since they partied together the night before.
 Mixologist Bryan Tetorakis of Rogue 24 garnishes his cocktails – Rising Stars Gala – The team from The Rock Barn – Benjamin Thompson at center Emceeing the fabulous event was Chef/Owner of Bayou Bakery and host of Travel Channel‘s “American Grilled”, David Guas, he of the Elvis sideburns. Here are a few photos from the gala taken at Union Market’s hip warehouse event space, Dock5.
Flatbread Pizza – Fast and Fabulous at Pizza Vinoteca
These days, watching your carb intake has become more than just a diet regime. Unless you’re a long distance runner or cross trainer you might be trying to keep those flour-filled ingredients in check. But take pizza out of the equation? That dog don’t hunt, as we say down South.
 Prepping the pie This newest addition to the laidback Ballston scene, Pizza Vinoteca, has taken the guilt out of pizza by making all of their pies – not pies. That is to say they’re all made in flatbread style in a custom-designed Jade Range grill. The monster infrared grill features 16 burners that climb to a raging 900 degrees, cranking out pizzas in less than five minutes. Three woodchip smoke boxes conspire to lend a nice char and crave-able smoky flavor.
 Wild Mushroom, Goat Cheese and Leek flatbread Pizza These super-thin pizzas come in a large variety of combinations. And even though the place boasts entrees, antipasti, salads, 38 world-sourced affordable wines by the glass, plenty of local craft beers and gelati, we are here for the P-I-Z-Z-A!
 Prosciutto with Mozzarella and Arugula Divided into two categories, “Classic” and “Crafted”, our tasters fell hard for the roasted wild mushroom with goat cheese and leeks, and another made with jowlciale (tender pork cheeks), chili pesto and toasted pistachios. The tarte flambée (good, but oh so rich) was better left for athletes-in-training. With a communal table that seats 18, it’s a fun place for groups too.
Jordan Wright
December 9, 2014
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
 Ben Thompson of The Rock Barn with assorted charcuterie Mark your calendars now for one of DC’s best dining events. On December 16th the 2014 StarChefs Washington DC area Rising Stars Gala will be at Dock 5 at Union Market. There’s even a special VIP reception where swells can sip champagne and nibble on Petrossian caviar before the awards ceremony and tasting gala dinner. The celebration will feature local foods, chefs, bartenders, roasters, brewers, artisans and sommeliers.
The fundraiser for DC Central Kitchen will be hosted by Bryan Voltaggio former Top Chef and Top Chef Master finalist and Chef/Owner of Volt, Range, Lunchbox, Family Meal and Aggio. Co-Hosts are Jason Alley of Comfort, Bertrand Chemel of 2941, Nadine Brown of Charlie Parker Steak, Chris Ford of Range, Stefan Trummer of Trummer’s on Main, Nick Stefanelli of Bibiano and Katsuya Fukushima of Daikaya. The winning chefs will prepare all the food on this fabulous night and I will be there. Will you? For tickets and information visit www.starchefs.com/risingstars.
 Phillip Perrow and Caleb Shriver of Dutch & Co. Drum roll, please!!! Ladies and gentlemen, I give you DC’s newest culinary royalty.
DC Chefs
Kyle Bailey of The Arsenal at Bluejacket – Pork Loin, Chanterelles, Asian Pears, Red Quinoa, and Pecans
Mike Friedman of Red Hen – Cavatelli, Heirloon Squash, Mushrooms, and Sage
Matthew McGhee of RANGE – Octopus, Lentils, Wheat Berries, and Pistachio
Joe Palma of Bourbon Steak – Fluke Crudo, Furikake, Golden Beets, Herb Jus, Baby Turnips, and White Shoyu
Aaron Silverman of Rose’s Luxury – Pork Sausage and Habanero-Lychee Salad
Johnny Spero of minibar – Australian Lamb, Cucumbers, Whey, and Dill
 Beef Tartare from Lee Gregory and Thomas Leggett of The Roosevelt Virginia Chefs
Ian Boden of The Shack – Pretzel Gemelli, Virginia Ham, and Mustard Sauce
Austin Fausett of Trummer’s on Main – Duck, Foie Gras, Popcorn, Wild Rice, and Balsamic Reduction
Lee Gregory of The Roosevelt – Wagyu Tartare, Egg, Squid Ink Bread, and Pickled Watermelon
Phillip Perrow and Caleb Shriver of Dutch & Company – Rye Perfect Egg, Cured Salmon, Quinoa, and Cumin Yogurt
Joe Sparatta of Heritage – Flounder, Smoked Potatoes, Spinach, and Brown Butter
Maryland Chefs
George Marsh of Parts & Labor – Lebanon Bologna
Graeme Ritchie of Volt – Wagyu Short Rib, Malt, and Salsify
Community Chef
Mike Isabella of Kapnos – Australian Lamb with Grain Salad
Concept Chef
Nathan Anda of Red Apron – Tête de Pho
 Pastry Chef Giane Cavaliere of Rogue 24 DC Pastry Chef
Giane Cavaliere of Rogue 24 –Sour Cherries, Valrhona Chocolate, Cola and Pistachios
Maryland Pastry Chef
Sarah Malphrus of Woodberry Kitchen – Buttermilk Sorbet, Oat Granola, Sorghum and Peaches
Restaurateur
Derek Brown of Columbia Room, Eat The Rich, Mockingbird Hill, The Passenger and Southern Efficiency – Oloroso Float
DC Artisans
Dave Coleman and Mike McGarvey of 3 Stars Brewing Company – Southern Belle Imperial Brown Ale
 Austin Fausett of Trummer’s on Main – Duck, Foie Gras, Popcorn, Wild Rice, and Balsamic Reduction Virginia Artisans
Evrim Dogu of Sub Rosa Bakery – Rosemary Sea Salt Flatbread
Benjamin Thompson of The Rock Barn – Pickled Okra Dog and Assorted Charcuterie
Maryland Artisans
Jay Caragay of Spro Coffee – French Press Ethiopian Lekepipto
Bartender
Bryan Tetorakis of Rogue 24 – The Martyr
DC Sommeliers
Brent Kroll of Neighborhood Restaurant Group – Pairings with winners’ dishes
Julian Mayor of Bourbon Steak – Pairings with winners’ dishes
Maryland Sommelier
Julie Dalton of Wit and Wisdom – Pairings with winners’ dishes
Host Chef – Franck Loquet of iCi Urban Bistro – VIP reception – Petrossian Caviar
See you there!
Jordan Wright
December 8, 2014
Special to The Alexandria Times
| The Nutcracker performed by The Washington Ballet |
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One of the best ways I know of to get excited about the Christmas season is to get thyself (and thy family) to the theatre where you can watch dancers soar in Septime Webre’s The Nutcracker performed by The Washington Ballet, sing your heart out to the National Symphony Orchestra’s performance of Handel’s Messiah at the Kennedy Center, or be transported by the age-old charms of A Christmas Carol. Whether you’re a traditionalist or modernist, there’s something for every taste, and plenty of holiday spirit for the kids too and plus a whole lot of ICE! to pretend we’re at the North Pole.
| Signature Theatre |
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At Signature Theatre it’s zany adult fare with a new spin on the beloved seasonal revue, Holiday Follies. Directed by Walter Ware III with musical direction by the inimitable Howard Breitbart, it’s an audience song choice evening featuring four fabulous singers, Gannon O’Brien, Stephen Gregory Smith, Delores King Williams and Bayla Whitten in a cabaret set list that changes with each performance. For tickets and information visit www.Signature-Theatre.org or call the box office at 703 820-9771.
| Peter Boyer (Scrooge)-Tracey Stephens (Charity Collector) |
Tracey Stephens as Bob Marley (in the body of Mae West) |
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North Pole enthusiasts will enjoy thrills and chills at this year’s ICE! – now at the Gaylord National Resort. The fun starts at the door of this glamorous resort when you lay eyes on the 60-foot tall glass tree glowing with over 2 million lights and gaze at the nightly indoor snowfall and musical “dancing” fountains. There’s fun for the whole family at the “Christmas on the Potomac” celebration where Frosty the Snowman is the star attraction. For info visit www.ChristmasOnThePotomac.com.
| 60-foot tall glass tree with 2 million lights |
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Carved from more than 2 million pounds of brightly colored ice sculptures and kept at a crisp nine degrees, you’ll stroll through life-size scenes of Frosty coming to life, marching through the Town Square, taking a train to the North Pole and Santa coming to the rescue to make “melted Frosty” whole again. Kids and grownups will want a turn on the two-story ice slide before checking out the interactive “Frostbite Factory”, where the Chinese artisans show off their master ice carving skills.
| Two-story ice slide |
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Afterwards head to the Atrium where little ones can hop aboard the miniature Peeps & Company Potomac Express Train or join DreamWorks’ Gingy from Shrek to decorate a gingerbread house to take home. Along the way play The Great Reindeer Roundup scavenger hunt throughout the hotel’s indoor gardens.
| Potomac Express Train |
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To learn about the many other holiday plans at the resort and to make reservations for the Brunch with Santa at Old Hickory Steakhouse, a DreamWorks’ Madagascar Crack’ A Lackin’ Cook-in Character Breakfast or buffet Dinner, a Yule log pastry making class, or a wine and cheese pairing class with the Old Hickory’s Maitre d’Fromage visit www.GaylordNationalTickets.com or call 301 965-4000.
At MetroStage the Great White Way is celebrated in A Broadway Christmas Carol, a spoof of the classic tale featuring the usual suspects – – Marley, Scrooge, Mrs. Fezziwig, The Cratchits and Tiny Tim. Set to familiar Broadway blockbusters this madcap Christmas special is performed by three phenomenal singer actors, Peter Boyer, Michael Sharp and Tracey Stephens plus alternating pianists, Howard Breitbart and William Knowles.
| Peter Boyer (Scrooge)-Tracey Stephens (Want)-Michael Sharp (Ignorance) – Photo: Colin Hovde |
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Lyricist Kathy Feininger has concocted all the belly laughs you can handle in this riotous revue that draws its musical chops from all your fave shows like Oklahoma, Guys and Dolls, Les Miserables, Phantom of the Opera, The Wiz and many, many more. More than five-dozen tunes and a whirlwind of wacky costume changes jam-pack this hilarious parody directed and choreographed by Michael Sharp. For tickets and information visit www.MetroStage.org or call the box office at 703 548-9044.
| The Little Theatre of Alexandria |
Scrooge (Mike Baker, Jr.)-Photos by Veronica Brunoo |
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For the traditionalist The Little Theatre of Alexandria presents its annual heartwarming classic, A Christmas Carol, Charles Dickens’ classic tale of transformation and redemption. Set against the backdrop of Victorian England, the show has gorgeous costumes, ghastly ghosts and charming children. Rachael Hubbard adapts and directs this picture perfect Christmas postcard for a family friendly show that reminds us all of the true meaning of the season. If it’s a Currier & Ives Christmas you hunger for, this is the show for you. For tickets and information visit www.TheLittleTheatre.com or call the box office at 703 683-5778.
Jordan Wright
December 6, 2014
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
 Elisabeth de Kergorlay Elisabeth de Kergolay has led a charmed life with nannies, chateaus and pied-a-terres, though that’s never stopped the beautiful young countess from using her entrepreneurial spirit to bring fresh ideas to America. Take for example her early investment in Le Pain Quotidien, the rustic chic French bakery café she invested in with Belgian chef and founder Alain Coumont in 1990. Since then the well-known communal table eatery with four locations in the DC area, has skyrocketed to 200 outlets in 17 countries. She clearly knows a great idea when she sees it.
Recently de Kergolay launched a frozen food emporium in New York City that is poised to recreate the same success she has enjoyed through her earlier business foray. Fashioned after the popular Paris store Picard, Babeth’s Feast opened on the Upper East Side in early August. The groundbreaking store offers high-end frozen foods and cooking demonstrations. Where has this clever idea been?
After learning about her venture at the opening of Daniel Boulud’s new DC outpost DBGB, Whisk and Quill was highly intrigued to learn more about this novel concept.
Jordan Wright – What is your past experience with food?
Elisabeth de Kergolay – I grew up around food, and being around Daniel when I was young was a great experience.
Tell me about your inspiration for Babeth’s Feast? How long has it been in the planning stages?
It was based on the concept of Picard from France. Arriving in New York in 2008, I like many other French people wondered, ‘Where’s the frozen food store? Where’s the Picard?’ When I realized there wasn’t one, I thought it had been tried and failed. But actually it had never been tried! So I thought about it a lot and spoke to quite a few people and decided to go ahead. I knew there was a niche for this, though it took several years to achieve. We had to do absolutely everything from the ground up – – creating and positioning the brand, selecting the products and designing the packaging.
The idea was to have a full range of products. We like to think of ourselves as a frozen grocery store where you can get anything you want for every meal of day. We have 400 products divided up into 10 different food categories. For sourcing and creating the recipes we have our chef, Susie Cover, who develops the recipes. Initially we made a list of what we liked of French-inspired foods then adapted them slightly to suit American tastes. We make over half of our products. Some are made by Susie, and some by private label, others are manufacturers’ brands made by companies who are specialists in their field. Of course we want our own products to be predominant in the future, but for the moment the remaining products are manufacturers’ brands. For that we select small companies who are specialists in their field.
Has Daniel been involved with Babeth’s Feast?
Daniel wrote a recipe for our cabbage soup using our fantastic lobster tails – – something new we had brought in for the holidays. We work with a lobster manufacturer in Maine to assure the most impeccable quality. In the future I want to explore having other chefs create dishes for us.
Are all the foods prepared?
Mostly, but some are unprepared cuts of meat and sausage and things that we source locally from the Hudson Valley. Also all our fish are raised sustainably. For uncooked products we help the customer with recipes.
Who creates the recipes?
Susie does. We brainstorm together to come up with different dishes and then she comes up with a recipe. Most of the original ones we did were traditional French, but we have moved on to curries and other things. We taste new dishes with our store team and our board to decide which we like. For the best local products, Susie also visits the food shows. For example, our ice creams are from Maine and New York, our meat-based products are prepared in Connecticut, and we produce our soups and quiches in New York.
Are they made in the sous vide style?
Ours are flash frozen, but some of the products we carry are made sous vide.
How are they readied for the table by the consumer?
Usually we have three options – bake, microwave or pan-warmed as with our velouté soups. Of course if it’s a gratin, it needs to be baked.
Do you sell any fruits, herbs, lemons or salad fixings to complement the dishes?
We have a selection of frozen herbs that have been very successful from the day we opened, like chopped onion, garlic and shallot, as well as sauces and spreads. And we have a pantry category as well. We carry crackers for the spreads, jams for our breads and sauces for our meats. Some of the jams are ours and some are French brands that are not yet known in the US.
Do you find customers buy your products to take to their weekend homes for entertaining?
Absolutely. I think the customer has yet to get used to the idea of having things in advance for special occasions as well as for regular use for whenever you need them. For me, although I still like cooking, perhaps I won’t make a side dish. I might make some fish or meat that I’ve purchased elsewhere to complement some of the side dishes that I keep in my freezer. It’s a whole way of mastering the use of frozen food. It answers many needs.
Do you ship to customers who might not have access to high quality foods?
We ship nationwide by FedEx. It’s packed in dry ice. And we deliver around Manhattan too.
What are the most popular items?
So far mostly the main courses like Coq au Vin, Veal Blanquette, Chicken Provençal and Chicken Tarragon. Also side dishes like Susie’s gratins and her favorite savory crumbles. She’s made three this season – one with Brussels Sprouts, one using tomatoes and another with butternut squash.
| Coq au Vin |
Fig and Caramelized Onion Puffs |
Tomato Crumble |
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What surprised you the most since you’ve opened?
I think really the time and the interest that people spend in the store looking before buying. When I shopped at Picard in France I was single and going out all the time, I didn’t spend a lot of time looking.
People are learning that we have a tasting area where we sample all day long. It was something that was indispensable to the success of the store. Because when they try they “get it”, and it’s so satisfactory for us. We know there’s a certain stigma attached to frozen food because the offerings haven’t been great. In France people choose to go to the frozen food store. It’s not considered a last resort.
I looked at your online calendar and your upcoming cooking demonstrations sounded exciting. I was especially captivated by the one called “Comfort Food” featuring Cauliflower Blue Cheese Velouté, Lamb Shanks, Sweet Potato Écrassé, and the Banana Apple Crumble. Are you also teaching your clients to cook at home as well as purchasing the products?
We show them how to pull it all together. When we give a demonstration we’ll use a few different products to create a meal. We want to keep it simple. We also show people how to plate the foods and show them tricks as how to serve it in their own dishes.
What other helpful tricks do you use?
We use a color code for each category of product. The idea behind this was to see exactly what the product is when it’s in the freezer. Like the breakfast products are coded yellow. That way you can see immediately what you have without having to rummage around.
Babeth’s Feast is at 1422 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10028. For more information visit www.BabethsFeast.com
 Mini parfaits
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