November 11, 2013
Cary Pollak for Whisk and Quill
Whether you’ve been an area resident for a while or are a newcomer, there’s a good chance that the first catering company you ever heard of was Ridgewells. Maybe you’ve been one of the fortunate ones, nabbing an invitation to an event catered by the prestigious company. Certainly you’ve caught a glimpse of the lilac-hued trucks as they tool around the Beltway or seen them parked behind a museum or private home.
Table setting in the Ridgewells tasting room
Recently this stalwart of entertaining expertise celebrated its 85th anniversary with a private dinner party in the tasting room of its Bethesda, Maryland headquarters. It was an evening of showcasing the latest dishes for the fall/winter season and heralding the company’s ambitious plans for their 85th anniversary celebration. To show its appreciation to the region that has supported it for so long, Ridgewells is embarking on a year-long program of “85 Days of Giving”. During the year eighty-five deserving entities will be the recipients of Ridgewells cuisine. It’s their way of giving thanks to community organizations for all of their charitable efforts.
The first gift Ridgewells donated was to cater the gala for Bethesda’s Imagination Stage, a theater they have supported since its inception in 1979. A few days later the company surprised the staff at Kaiser Permanente’s Gaithersburg Chemo Suite with a delivery of gourmet cookies. The company has set up a Twitter account to update its followers on their journey of giving @RIDGEWELLSDC.
Sausage stuffed quail being prepared for the dining room
While dinner guests were learning about this generous outreach program, they were treated to elegant passed hors d’oeuvres of Reuben fritters with spiced Russian dressing, spicy tuna soba noodle spring rolls, sweet pea fritters with apple mint chutney and mini meatball grinders on naan. Once guests were seated dinner began with a fabulous smoked fish fritter topped with kimchee, creme fraiche and an edible, purple sweet potato leaf. Each tidbit packed a unique and assertive flavor, and you might be hard pressed to imagine a better way to “fritter” away your time while the main dinner was being prepared.
Smoked fish fritter, one of three types of fritter appetizers served
One of the features of Ridgewells’ tasting room is a full view of the kitchen through a wall of glass where guests can watch the elegant plating of the evening’s delicacies.
Stuffed quail as presented on the plate
Our host was the ebullient Susan Lacz, co-owner of the company since 1997. She and partners, Thomas Keon and Jose Valado, are the most recent additions to a fabled line of ownership that dates back to 1928 when Charlie Ridgewell, a butler on the British Ambassador’s staff and Margueritte Ridgewell, a chef at the French Embassy founded the business. Their daughter, Fifi, and her husband took over the business after World War II, and it remained family owned until 1984, when it was purchased by the Chicago department store chain, Carson, Pirie, Scott and Company.
Ms. Lacz announced that the dinner would be served family style, sometimes known as French service, a style of serving in which servers present large platters to each guest to take whatever amount they would prefer. Dinner consisted of local quail stuffed with sausage and nestled in a lovely demiglaze; risotto studded with Brussels sprouts; slices of red beets and tangerines with a delicate ricotta; quinoa salad with Meyer lemon; and kale Caesar salad.
Quail surrounded by side dishes
Lavish tablescapes showcased an autumn theme. And no site was left unadorned. Pumpkin-studded flower arrangements fit for any dinner party centerpiece even adorned the powder rooms. Another touch of whimsy were deceptively clever desserts disguised as ice cream bars. The luscious Autumn Spiced Cakesicles were filled with cake and pumpkin mousse and served with a poached pear.
Cakesicle dessert
Since Ridgewells first opened its doors, dining and entertaining trends in the National Capital Area have swung from baroque to barbecue and everything in between. Despite changes in political administrations, economic upturns and downturns, and shakeups in the company’s corporate structure, Ridgewells has remained at the top of their game. This year they truly have something to celebrate. Their generous project of 85 Days of Giving is yet another indication of their good taste.
Photo credits: Cary Pollak
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