Jordan Wright
April 7, 2015
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
A small farm high up in the Tyrolean mountains gave Nora Poullion her first taste of organic foods. While their father tended to his business in Vienna during World War II, Nora, her mother and two older sisters were safely ensconced in a rudimentary chalet where they lived with a farmer and his wife who baked bread from their own wheat, grew their own vegetables, milked the cows for butter and cheese, and gathered mushrooms from the forest. They were joined there by two old family friends – – Jewish refugees fleeing from the Nazis. These were the experiences that informed the direction of her life.
In her poignant memoir Poullion allows us into her private world before she was recognized as an American culinary pioneer through her commitment to local, sustainable and organic food. The book takes us along on her journeys throughout Europe and later in the U.S. at a time that parallels the rise of the organic Food Movement. When food was becoming ever more distant and chefs were buying from huge wholesale suppliers, Nora began to cultivate relationships with local farmers – – something I learned firsthand when I interviewed her seven years ago at the Dupont Circle Farmers Market where she still shops each week for Restaurant Nora, the first certified organic restaurant in the United States.
A few weeks ago we reconnected for the launch of her new book, My Organic Life: How a Pioneering Chef Helped Shape the Way We Eat Today (Alfred A. Knopf – April 2015) written with Laura Fraser. As in her book Poullion spoke candidly over lunch about her early experiences in America. “I was astonished when I came to this country. Everything was packaged in plastic and there was no culture around food. Back then Pepperidge Farm was the gourmet bread!” You can well imagine how far removed this was to someone whose upbringing reflected the care and attention given to food in Europe. Remembering her first impressions she added, “I noticed how unhealthy people were. They just went to the doctor to get a pill!”
 Hearts of Palm Salad with pineapple carpaccio, mâche, pistachios and yuzu vinaigrette In the book Poullion recalls her arrival in Washington, DC in 1965 with her journalist husband, Pierre. As a young woman and newlywed she didn’t know how to cook. So charged with hosting his many ex-pat friends who excelled at cooking and entertaining, she turned to James Beard’s cookbooks for inspiration. By 1972 she had achieved such a stellar reputation for her French cooking and catering, that she began giving cooking classes. “Ralph Nader was my first student,” she recalled.
Area residents who have followed her career will remember her first restaurant inside the Tabard Inn, a small B&B in Dupont Circle. “I was stunned when twenty people came in!” she said of her first lunch service. One year later, after a stint flipping burgers in a local joint (No one can say she hasn’t paid her dues!), she and partner, Steven Damato, and his brother, Tom, opened Restaurant Nora. Later the trio enjoyed an eight-year run with City Café before turning it into the since shuttered Asia Nora.
 Sake Glazed Black Codwith ginger miso emulsion, bok choy, shiitakes, snow peas and crispy yams On this sunny afternoon she was seated beside her close friend of many years, Diane Rehm, the beloved NPR broadcaster. Rehm is one of the many notables – – from Jimmy Carter to the Obamas – – who have regularly patronized the restaurant.
Before our delicious lunch came to a close I begged (Yes, I really did beg!) for the recipe for the scrumptious dessert she served. It was a fabulous cake she planned to bake for Jacques Pepin’s upcoming 80th birthday tribute. Behold I give you Nora’s grandmother’s recipe for Austrian Chocolate Almond Cake. What I won’t do for my dear readers…
 Austrian Chocolate Almond Cake AUSTRIAN CHOCOLATE ALMOND CAKE WITH LIGHT WHIPPED CREAM
- 1 ½ cups almonds
- 4 ounces unsalted butter
- 4 ounces semi-sweet chocolate
- ¾ cup sugar
- 6 egg yolks
- ¾ cub breadcrumbs
- 6 egg whites
- Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Spread the almonds onto a baking sheet and bake for 8-10 minutes, until fragrant and toasted. Let the nuts cool. Coarsely chop the almonds.
- Butter an 8-inch spring-form pan with one teaspoon of butter and dust with some of the breadcrumbs.
- Melt the chocolate in a double boiler over simmering water. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.
- Combine the butter, sugar, and cooled, melted chocolate in the bowl of a mixer and beat until the batter changes to a lighter color and becomes creamy, about three minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl once or twice while beating.
- Add the yolks, one at a time, and continue beating. Lower the speed of the mixer and add the ground almonds and breadcrumbs.
- Beat egg whites* (see tips below) until soft but not stiff. Stir a third of the beaten whites into the batter, blending thoroughly. Gently fold in remaining whites, working quickly and carefully to incorporate all the whites without deflating the batter.
- Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake 50 – 55 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. The center of the cake can still be soft.
- Allow the cake to cool in the pan for 10 minutes before turning it out onto a cake rack. Let the cake cool completely before adding the glaze. Serves 12.
CHOCOLATE GLAZE
For one 8-inch cake
- 3 ounces semi-sweet chocolate
- 3 ounces unsalted butter, softened
- 1 ounce of room temperature milk chocolate for garnish
- Melt semi-sweet chocolate in a double boiler over simmering water. Add the butter and stir until blended and smooth. Remove the glaze from the heat and allow it to cool and thicken to the consistency of thick cream.
- Brush the cake to remove any loose crumbs, and place both the cake and the cooling rack on a sheet pan to catch the chocolate glaze. Slowly pour a pool of chocolate glaze onto the center of the cake. Working from the center out, use a long metal spatula to spread the glaze evenly over the top and sides of the cake.
- For a smoother look, you can glaze the cake a second time. Scoop the excess glaze from the sheet pan and reheat it in a small double boiler. Pour it through a sieve, if necessary to remove any cake crumbs, and cool it slightly to thicken a bit. Pour the glaze again onto the center of the cake and allow it to spread without using a spatula.
- With a vegetable peeler, shave off some curls of the milk chocolate and sprinkle them on top of the cake. Allow the glaze to set for 2 hours at room temperature or at least 20 minutes in the refrigerator.
LIGHT WHIPPED CREAM
- 4 tablespoons heavy cream
- 1 egg white
- 1 tablespoon superfine or confectioners’ sugar
- Fresh mint for garnish
- Whip the egg white until it holds its shape. Whip the cream in a separate bowl until it forms soft peaks, then add the sugar. Continue to whip the cream until it forms soft peaks again. Fold the egg whites into the cream.
- Assembly: Cut 4 pieces of the cake and put one piece on each of four dessert plates, garnish with a dollop of the light whipped cream and a sprig of mint.
Nora’s commentary
This is my grandmother’s recipe for a traditional Austrian cake, called Rehrueken. The name means “venison saddle” because the cake is usually baked in a long, half-roll pan to imitate a saddle of venison.
No matter what you do, this cake never fails. Under-baked, it tastes like a brownie. The original Viennese recipe uses almonds, but sometimes I make an Italian version, substituting pine nuts and serving it with an Amaretto cream or ice cream. I have made an American version using pecans and a bourbon whipped cream or ice cream.
The simple glaze always works, and my customers and family love it. Our neighbor in Vienna, the daughter of a famous restaurant owner, gave me this glaze recipe.
You can flavor the whipped cream with any kind of liqueur or with a few drops of pure vanilla, honey, rosewater or a pinch of cinnamon.
*Nora’s Tips
It is important not to over-beat the egg whites. Whip them just until they keep their shape. If over-beaten, they are difficult to fold in thoroughly and over-beaten eggs can cause the cake to rise too high, crack, and fall as it cools.
Jordan Wright
April 3, 2015
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
Peter Chang and Gen Lee Open Their Fifth Restaurant
 Joan Nathan with Kaz Oguchi (left) and Gen Lee Joan Nathan was holding court at the best table in the house during ‘friends and family’ night at Chang’s latest Virginia outpost, the eponymously titled, Peter Chang’s Arlington, where a breathtaking 17-course dinner was served family style.
 Daisy Tofu Soup – Stir-fried Beef with Chili Peppers The Sips & Suppers gang, hot off their successful fundraising dinners, had the party in full swing by the time I arrived. Cindy and Colin Uckert, one of many couples who played host to local chefs and guests in January, were at our table of twelve. (See my January interview with Gen Lee on Whisk and Quill – – https://whiskandquill.com/no-longer-runaway-chef-peter-chang-appear-sips-suppers)
 At Peter Chang’s – Pork Dumplings – Cumin Lamb Chops I will not regale you with every tasty dish, though each one was memorable in its own way. Suffice it to say it was a true Sichuan cuisine banquet fueled by lively food and wine chatter from those in the know.
My prediction? Lines around the block. Look for Chang’s fine dining Chinese restaurant to open in Rockville this April.
For reservations and information visit www.PeterChangArlington.com.
Mango Tree is Just Ripe for the Picking
After my interview with Richard Sandoval last December my antennae were way up anxiously awaiting the opening of his new spot in the very glam CityCenterDC on H Street. Sandoval has the Midas touch when it comes to combining exotic flavors and creating trends and Mango Tree is no exception. This latest jewel in his culinary crown is the twelfth Mango Tree, with others spread out across the globe from London to Bangkok and Dubai.
The sleek concept restaurant is decorated with saffron-hued banquettes, lots of dark wood, and both an upstairs and downstairs bar. I was pleased to note that they are at last open for lunch service, albeit with a smaller menu. Some of the dishes are already getting quite a buzz.
This Spring Mango Tree has gotten on board with other U.S. chefs on the serious issue of worldwide seafood sustainability. Did you know that a whopping 20% of all fish caught are thrown overboard as U.S. fishermen pursue higher-priced target fish? As you might imagine, some of these survive and some do not.
So to address the issue chefs are buying up by-catch fish and dreaming up super delicious dishes. Right here in the Chesapeake Bay the wild Blue Catfish is considered the greatest environmental threat to our native species, consuming everything in their path. We applaud Mango Tree’s chefs who are lightly batter-frying the delicate white-fleshed Blue Catfish and serving it up with an Asian-influenced sweet and sour sauce. Enjoy! It’s for the environment.
 (l-r) Mango Tree’s Shrimp Salad – Sweet and Sour Wild Blue Catfish – Lobster Pad Thai at Mango Tree Just in – – brunch service will begin April 4th and continue to be offered both Saturdays and Sundays from 11am till 3pm.
British-born Chef de Cuisine Paul Kennedy has crafted a menu combining traditional English breakfast fare with the traditional Thai flavors of savory, sweet, sour and spice. Here’s what to expect.
Appetizers include – – Green Papaya Salad, poached shrimp, cherry tomatoes, long beans, chili-lime and a Sriracha cocktail sauce; Street-Style Pork-in-A-Bag, grilled marinated pork skewers with Thai sticky rice and a sweet tamarind sauce.
Entrées are just as enticing – – Mango Tree Eggs Benedict, toasted English muffin, poached egg and hash browns, served with a choice of grilled salmon, Kaffir lime hollandaise and sautéed spinach or braised beef cheeks with green curry hollandaise and sautéed spinach or sautéed spinach, with Kaffir lime hollandaise and shallots; Salmon Scrambled Eggs with hash browns and crispy fried bread; Thai-English Breakfast, inspired by the traditional English breakfast Chef Kennedy grew up eating; made with Northern-style Thai sausage, crispy bacon, two wok fried eggs, hash browns, grilled Portobello mushroom, grilled tomato and fried bread; Oven-Baked Blueberry French Toast with whipped cream and blueberry compote; Bacon, Bourbon and Apple Pancakes with hash browns and maple syrup; or Mango Tree Waffles, with a choice of maple syrup, crispy bacon and whipped cream or strawberry and Thai basil compote and whipped cream or fresh fruit in ginger & mint syrup. Dishes are a la carte.
 Fresh fruits at Mango Tree – Coconut Sticky Rice with Coconut Gelato and Ginger Syrup The new brunch menu continues to reel us in with cocktails such as the Traditional Mimosa; Mary in the Mango Tree with Mekhong and house-made bloody Mary mix; Mango Mimosa with Champagne and fresh mango purée; Lychee Bellini with Champagne and fresh lychees; The Spirited Thai with Mekhong, fresh lime, lychee and pineapple, and the Thai Tea-ni with Thai tea infused vodka with star anise and evaporated milk.
Have I got your attention? For reservations and information for Mango Tree at CityCenterDC call 202 408-8100 or visit www.MangoTreeDC.com.
The Daily Dish – A Neighborhood Favorite in Silver Spring
Last month a lavish 5-course luncheon was prepared for twelve of food writers at The Daily Dish. How I wish you were there as we gobbled up lump crab cakes with remoulade, duck confit on endive with smoked bacon and roast grapes, house-cured gravlax with crème fraiche and wild mushroom soup. And those were just the appetizers which we washed down with either Blood Orange Margaritas or Elderflower Caipiroskas with a sprig of rosemary. There is nothing delicate about a horde of foodies with an appetite for good food and a penchant for fine wines that were gratefully served with each course.
 Lump crab cakes with remoulade, duck confit on endive with smoked bacon and roast grapes, house-cured gravlax with crème fraiche — Salad of roast beets on arugula paired perfectly with goat cheese, fennel and oranges A salad of roast beets on arugula paired perfectly with goat cheese, fennel and oranges comprised our second course followed by purple sweet potato gnocchi and diver scallops with pancetta and a Spanish romesco sauce. As we segued into beef short ribs with baby carrots and a savory bread pudding of mushrooms, bacon, pea shoots and smoked Gouda. There were three types of desserts to swoon over, but I can only recall the vegan chocolate cake with berry wine sauce. What do you expect after seven different wines were poured?
 Diver scallops with pancetta and a Spanish romesco sauce — Beef short ribs with baby carrots I don’t know how the chef and his small staff can handle such volume in the teensy open kitchen, but they have one of the most extensive menus I’ve ever seen. Their brunch menu reveals dozens of dishes – – ditto for lunch and dinner – – while a hearth oven cranks out pizzas all day and night. More on that later…
 Vegan chocolate cake with berry wine sauce With a heartwarming dedication to sustainably raised seafood and a keen eye for purchasing produce and meats from small farms and Amish suppliers, owners, Zena Polin and Jerry Hollinger have developed a reputation for quality comfort food. Hollinger is the executive chef in their mutual enterprise and Polin handles selecting the wines, over thirty are available by the glass or bottle with a rotating “Reserve” list of special wines. At our lunch I enjoyed a surprisingly memorable sauvignon blanc 2012 Bodegas Carrau from Uruguay, another from Portugal, two from France, one each from California and Oregon and, I’m happy to say one from Virginia, Nebbiolo Ice Wine from Breaux Vineyards in Purcellville.
 Blood Orange Margarita Polin also enjoys dreaming up specialty cocktails. A particular favorite of mine is Pimm’s Cup. The perfect summer refresher, we love it for sipping between chukkas at a polo match. That it is served here, is a wonderment.
Another of the restaurant’s offerings is the Bloody Mary bar, here each drink is concocted according to the guest’s exact specifications. Choose a vodka and a rim frosting, next add your own juice, tomato or V8, then make it as mild or hot as you like with spices, horseradish and the like, popping in a smoked bacon stirrer or poached shrimp topper. What a way to brave the day!
Opened 2009 the duo have a faithful neighborhood following. With dishes changing every night according to Hollinger’s whim and what’s in season, locals and their families often dine here more than once a week. For those short of time, there’s “Dough to Go”, a kit containing dough, sauce and cheese for making your own pizza. I took one home, followed the instructions and felt like a pro.
For more info or to make reservations visit www.thedailydish.com.
A Singularly Smashing Night at the Embassy of Spain
 Ambassador Ramon Gil-Casares (center) at the Embassy of Spain’s lavish buffet As reported in late March, I planned to attend a supper and talk at the Foxhall Road Embassy of Spain. After some delectable hors d’oeuvres and wine, Ramon Martinez, Executive Chef of Jose Andres’ noted restaurant, Jaleo, presented an illuminating power point presentation on the evolution of Spanish gastronomy, noting the connections between the two continents and crediting America for green peppers and tomatoes.
He gave credit to Spain for inventing hot chocolate mentioning, “The Americas discovered cacao, but we are the ones that put sugar in it.” On a more conciliatory note he demurred, “It’s all about collaboration.”
 The embassy sets a pretty table – Desserts on the patio at the embassy Ambassador Ramon Gil-Casares then invited the attendees to follow him downstairs where the Embassy’s Executive Chef, Rive Perez, had prepared a spectacular traditional Spanish dinner where tables were set with white linens on a candlelit patio. If you’ve been following my peregrinations lately you couldn’t be faulted for thinking that Spain has had a firm hand in feeding me every week. Or so it seems.
A Chance Meeting with the Prime Minister of Ireland
 Prime Minister of Ireland Enda Kenny with Fionnaula Kelly and Daniel O’Connell’s manager, Trini Hughes (center) After spending a frigid morning covering the British Royals at Mount Vernon the day after St. Patrick’s Day, I met up with a colleague for a late lunch of corned beef and cabbage at Daniel O’Connell’s in Old Town Alexandria, when who should be at the next table of the near-empty restaurant but Taoiseach (Irish Prime Minister), Enda Kenny and his wife, Fionnuala Kenny.
 Jordan Wright with the Prime Minister of Ireland Kenny We sent a message through our waiter and the Kennys immediately came to our table. We had just left the future King of England and ten miles away we were chatting it up with the Irish Prime Minister. I’m still delirious from it all.
 Corned beef and cabbage at Daniel O’Connell’s Photo credit: Jordan Wright
Jordan Wright
March 25, 2015
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
 Ziggy Gruber with Zellagabetsky Paula Murphy Glorious six-inch high pastrami and corned beef sandwiches, matzoh balls floating airily in a rich chicken stock the color of fresh hay, chopped chicken liver blended with onions and hard-cooked egg served in baseball-size orbs, smoked whitefish and Nova sliced so thin you can see right through a single silken slice to see your bubbeleh across the table. Fat red cherry blintzes.
 Erik Greenberg Anjou and Fyvush Finkel In the The Deli Man, the third and last of Director Erik Greenberg Anjou’s trilogy about Jewish culture, we are given a seat at the tables of some of North America’s greatest delicatessens where third and fourth generation deli men, whose grandfathers and great-grandfathers brought their treasured recipes across the Atlantic to Canada and the U. S., still keep the beloved traditions alive. And where men without money, or a country to go back to, came by the droves to the Lower East Side of Manhattan determined to open a restaurant with the food their families held dear.
 Director Erik Greenberg Anjou and crew with Jerry Stiller Many of these delis, Reuben’s, Lindy’s, the Stage Deli, Katz’s, Nate n’ Al’s and Carnegie Deli, served the vaudevillians that worked in the nearby theater district. Comedians like Jack Benny, Henny Youngman, Eddie Cantor, and my late father, Georgie Price, had sandwiches named after them and you could find a deli on every street corner in New York. A few of these iconic delis are still around. Hundreds more around the country closed their doors due to the changing American cultural and culinary landscape.
 Ziggy Gruber at serving counter The Deli Man is a loving documentary portrait of the hardworking men, and women, who have kept their delis alive despite the rising costs of meat and fish, and the never-ending hours. The film is informed by the backstory of David “Ziggy” Gruber, owner of the Houston, Texas-based Kenny & Ziggy’s Delicatessen. Ziggy, an overachiever with a big heart, explains his devotion to his Hungarian roots and the dishes that he loves so well, “When I cook I feel my ancestors around me.”
Appearances by Larry King and Jerry Stiller brighten this Jewish culinary love story. Stiller explains its importance in daily life, “The deli was something you deserved after working your ass off.”
 Larry King The Deli Man opens on Friday, March 27th at AMC Mazza Gallerie and AMC Shirlington. Rated PG-13.
Highly recommended if there is a deli within ten minutes walking or driving distance – – otherwise you will drool like a bulldog and your Yiddishe Mama will kvetsh.
Jordan Wright
March 18, 2015
Special to The Alexandria Times
 George Washington’s Mount Vernon Estate Wide-eyed tourists were gobsmacked to shake hands with and get hugs from His Royal Highness, Prince Charles, and his wife, Camilla Parker-Bowles, the Duchess of Cornwall, as the couple toured George Washington’s Mount Vernon Estate last Wednesday. In town for four days the Prince was eager to return to the historic home he had visited in 1970 when he was accompanied by his sister, Princess Anne, and the daughters of then-President Richard Nixon, Julie and Tricia. For Charles and Camilla it was their third visit to the area since they toured as newlyweds in 2005.
The royals have always shown a fondness for Mount Vernon, despite rocky relations with the monarchy in Washington’s day. Queen Victoria’s son, King Edward VII inaugurated the first royal family visit in 1860 and many of his descendants followed. In 1991 Charles’ mother and father, Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Phillip arrived. Fifteen years later his brother, Prince Andrew, presided over a ceremony marking the beginning of the restoration of George Washington’s Distillery. It seems they delight in the historic destination as much the swarm of tourists and scrum of official photographers who braved the chilly afternoon for an epic photo op or hoped-for ‘selfies’.
 The Prince of Wales talks with Governor McAuliffe (at far right) and Carol Cardou (left of the Governor) – Camilla is seen on the left of the column with Mount Vernon’s President Curt Viebranz After signing the register and touring the mansion’s bespoke rooms, the couple emerged onto the porch along with an august group that included Virginia’s Governor Terry McAuliffe; Mount Vernon’s President, Curt Viebranz; Regent of the Mount Vernon Ladies’ Association, Barbara Lucas; and Senior Vice President for Historic Preservation & Collections, Carol Cardou. Fashionistas take note – – the Prince sported bright blue casual trousers with a dark navy overcoat and patterned blue silk tie while the Duchess looked elegant in a slate gray coat with Greek key embroidery by Bruce Oldfield, one of her favorite designers.
While Camilla stayed behind admiring the artworks, Charles headed down along the river to view the wharf his mother had dedicated so many years before. Much has been written about the Prince’s passion for organic gardening, conservation and sustainable farming and fishing and Viebranz was eager to show him where Washington once netted over a million pounds of shad each year and walk him around the walled organic gardens so much like the Prince’s own gardens at High Grove.
 Heritage breed baby lambs with mother Greeting school children along the way, Charles took note of the newborn lambs and later stopped for a quiet moment to lay a wreath at the tomb of the American general who led the army that defeated his kinsmen. Apparently all is forgiven.
The entourage, who were joined by Director of Trades, Steve Bashore, then strode briskly up the hill. The Prince paused briefly to greet the heritage breed Austrian oxen with a gentle pat on the head before entering the sixteen-sided Pioneer Barn where he watched ponies tread the wheat.
 Prince Charles with Steve Bashore (center) and Curt Viebranz (left) All smiles, local resident, Kitty Morgan, a British ex-pat who had allowed her two boys to play hooky for the historic moment, was thrilled to glimpse the Prince who graciously shook hands with her children. When was asked how her countrymen felt about Americans since the Revolutionary War, she was quick to say, “Oh, we love the Americans!”
Just as excited was Dean Norton, Mount Vernon’s Director of Horticulture, whose crew was busy painting the roses red (to borrow a phrase) in advance of the royal visit. Noting that Washington pored over English gardening books of the period and looked to the English for guidance as to how to farm the land, Norton remarked, “The Prince’s cause is a noble one in which we share a common thread.”
 In the thick of the collegial scrum
Photo credit – Jordan Wright
By Cary Pollak for Whisk and Quill
March 21, 2015
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
We can all recite the famous intro from Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus, “Ladies and gentlemen, and children of all ages.” It’s the opening line from the ringmaster – – the signal you are about to be entertained, something the legendary Ringling Bros. has fine-tuned for over a century. Prior to opening night of a four-day run at DC’s Verizon Center, I joined a group of journalists invited to dine in the fabled “Pie Car”. On Thursday afternoon a small shuttle bus whisked us off to a far-flung corner of the District where we were amazed to arrive at a lengthy one-mile long, 60-car train. The locomotive-driven stream of boxcars houses the circus’s animals, handlers, cast and crew as they travel by rail around the country.
 The Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus Train. Once on board Ringmaster Johnathan Lee Iverson ushered us into one of the many dining cars. Iverson, a commanding fellow who was dressed in one of his dazzling costumes of sequined tails and top hat, is the first African-American ringmaster and at twenty-two, the youngest ringmaster in Ringling Brothers’ history. At a towering 6’ 5”, he must surely be one of the tallest. An award-winning tenor and student of voice in college, Iverson had hoped to become an opera singer. But when the role was offered, Iverson gladly gave up Pagliacci, to be the singing and speaking voice of ringmaster. In addition, he proved to be a gracious host.
 Ringmaster John flanked by Brazilian circus dancers Deborath Aranjo and Carol Grego Our lunch was billed as a culinary journey with dishes from a few of the more than fifty countries represented by the cast and crew of the troupe’s current show, LEGENDS. The menu featured Japanese spaghetti and meatballs, Brazilian cheesy bread and Chilaquiles con chorizo (a dish of deep fried tortilla wedges, salsa verde, onions and chorizo sausage, topped with a fried egg). While this may not be the Greatest Chow on Earth from a gourmand’s perspective, the food is hearty fare geared to please the carb-craving performers.
 Lunch aboard the Pie Car Chef Matt Loory, who became Pie Car manager two years ago at a mere twenty-two years of age, produces nearly 1,000 meals each week for 48 weeks a year. I asked Loory why it’s called the Pie Car. It seems there are three competing stories about the origin of the name. One is that coffee and pie were all that was served on circus trains in the early days. Another holds that meat pies were commonly served to the roustabouts employed by the circus. But the tale most popular with the diners is that Pie Car is an acronym standing for, “privileged individuals and employees.” Everyone agrees, however, that it is a catchy name no matter how you slice it.
 Elephant on pedestal Attending the show the same night after meeting some of the performers in the Pie Car, was like watching friends step into the limelight from backstage. While we took our seats, skillful clowns (grads from the Ringling Bros. Clown College) did rope jumping tricks and slapstick while families watched from the floor of the arena for a one-on-one experience. Then Ringmaster John appeared, no longer relaxing and chatting with a few journalists, but now the riveting centerpiece of a spectacular display of swirling lights, bright colors and breathtaking acts.
 Elephants walking in line Soon a line of elephants entered the ring lumbering along tail to trunk. These graceful giants have fascinated audiences ever since Ringling introduced Jumbo, “The World’s Largest Elephant,” in the 1880’s. (Recently Ringling Bros. announced plans to phase out their elephant performers and keep them at their 200-acre Center for Elephant Conservation in central Florida.)
 Motorcycles in steel globe One of the first acts of the evening was a troupe of Asian bicyclists performing gymnastics while on top of the bikes – and each other! Next came the amazing Torres siblings who ride motorcycles at speeds of up to 65 miles per hour in a now iconic 16-foot steel globe. If they ever slow down long enough to look like anything but a blur, you can see that there are eight of them racing in circles at once.
 Dogs on hind legs Tumblers who vault through 10-foot high hoops, trapeze artists who defy gravity, and sidesplitting clowns are among the many attractions. Magnificent horses, roaring lions and tigers, and adorable dogs of all sizes round out the evening. We even saw a pair of kangaroos leaping over high jumps.
 Lions and tigers Any one of these acts alone would be worth the ticket. Put together they provide an entertainment experience that truly is “The Greatest Show on Earth.”
 Masters of the horse – Photo credit Jordan Wright The circus will be in the area for five weeks with the following schedule:
Washington, DC, Verizon Center:
March 20, 2015 – March 22, 2015
Baltimore, MD, Royal Farms Arena
March 25, 2015 – April 05, 2015
Fairfax, VA, Patriot Center
April 08, 2015 – April 19, 2015
For further information or to buy tickets, visit www.ringling.com.
Photo credit Cary Pollak (unless noted otherwise)
Jordan Wright
March 17, 2015
Special to DC Metro Theater Arts
Goût de/Good France! Chooses DC Chef Franck Loquet for Grand Gastronomic Dinner
 The pretty new lobby at the Sofitel This Thursday, March 19th 1300 chefs from around the world will express their love of French cuisine by creating a specially designed one-time dining event.
Organized by noted French chef, Alain Ducasse, and the Ministry of Finance Affairs and International Development, the ‘French dinner’ will be held at iCi Urban Bistro in the beautifully renovated Art Deco era Sofitel Hotel, Washington, DC and presided over by the French General Consul Olivier Serot-Almeras.
 iCi Urban Bistro Executive Chef Franck Loquet Parisian-born Franck Loquet who presides over the kitchen of iCi Urban Bistro and who had once been an instructor at Ecole de Cuisine Alain Ducasse, was chosen from thousands of chefs. He is the only chef in DC to be awarded this notable honor.
The parameters for the lavish seven-course menu were well defined. First, dinner must start with an aperitif. It should then continue with a cold starter, a hot starter, fish or shellfish, meat or poultry, and French cheese – – culminating with a chocolate dessert. Adding to these strict guidelines, the entire meal must be served with French wines and digestifs. The judges felt that the cuisine should be accessible to all – – from casual bistros to high-end restaurants.
For a true reflection of each region the committee required the meal to be based on seasonal and local products. Something we heartily endorse! Another rule of the competition was that the dinner be prepared with lower levels of fat, sugar, salt and protein, making it a fantastic challenge for any chef.
Here’s the menu Chef Loquet designed, and I sampled! All in the name of research, dear readers.
 A basket of gougeres and assorted in house baked breads Apéritif – gougères served with Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve Champagne
 Branzino Tartare First – Branzino Tartare – with Vanilla, ginger and grapefruit pearls and radish salad
 Woodland Mushroom Tart Second – Woodland Mushroom Tart – topped with truffled goat cheese mousse
 Atlantic Salmon ‘Mi-Cuit’ Third – Atlantic Salmon “Mi-Cuit” – with English pea purée, baby Spring vegetable fricassee and leek coulis
 Herb Crusted Lamb Loin Fourth – Herb Crusted Lamb Loin – with sweet onion mousseline, grilled scallions, pickled pearl onions and olive jus
Fifth – French cheeses with accouterments
 Cremeux Aux Trois Chocolats Dessert – Cremeux Aux Trois Chocolats – served with Le Cèdre Malbec 2011
iCi Urban Bistro is located one block from the White House at 806 15th Street, NW, Washington, DC 20005. For reservations to this once-in-a-lifetime French culinary extravaganza visit www.goodfrance.eventbrite.com.
Photo credit: Jordan Wright
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