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The Deen Brothers talk steak, wine and granddaddy’s chickens

By: Jordan Wright
Special to The Washington Examiner
September 5, 2010

Jamie and Bobby Deen with local winner Kim Porterfield

Jamie and Bobby Deen with local winner Kim Porterfield

All hell’s broken loose outside these walls. Seventy-five mph straight-line winds tear across fields surrounding the Legg Mason Tennis Tournament venue snapping 100 year-old trees like chopsticks and ripping them from their earthy sockets.

Below us a small army of grounds keepers armed with push brooms uselessly displace three-inch deep puddles that have submerged the courts. From a luxury ark (read: skybox) Jamie and Bobby Deen talk about grilling … something they know plenty about. “Granddaddy made his own 50-gallon drum for grilling at home. All he put on his chickens was lemon and Worcestershire sauce, and they were known far and wide as the county’s best chickens,” Jamie reminisces.

Between ear-splitting thunderclaps and sky-slicing lightning, I learned of their latest adventures and plans for the future. Jamie is putting together a new show called “The Family Table” and Bobby is in development on his own project. They’ll be on separate paths for awhile though still managing the family’s The Lady and Sons restaurant in Savannah, Ga. Together they await the upcoming release of their fourth and latest cookbook, “Take It Outside”.

This spring, “The Boys,” as everyone calls Paula Deen’s sons, debuted their new magazine, “Deen Bros. Good Cooking,” whose target readership aims for a predominantly male audience hopped up on tailgating, grilling and barbecue. “My favorite cut is the bone-in rib eye. I tell everyone, when I’m done cutting, I will pick up the bone and finish it off!” warns Jamie. As for Bobby, “I’ll opt for a big old porterhouse every time.”

The Boys learned a lot about restaurants and cooking styles through their Food Network series, “Road Tasted.” But they knew little or nothing about wine. “We knew enough to get the bottle open. But after a four-day trip to Napa with the guys at Beringer Vineyards, we learned a lot,” Jamie told me. Now they’re traveling around the country for Beringer looking for the “Ultimate Griller” in the Beringer Great Steak Challenge that pairs the best steak recipe with Beringer wine. The battle, with a grand prize of $15,000 and a guest appearance on The Cooking Channel, will culminate this October at the winery’s splendid 1,600-acre Napa Valley vineyards.

As hosts of the nationwide search they were here for the mid-Atlantic regional competition and to announce the Mid-Atlantic winner, Kim Porterfield of Pulaski, Pa., whose delectable Oyster Rockefeller Filets recipe is featured along with the Deens’ Blackberry Head of State Steak recipe.

Oyster Rockefeller Filets

Wine Pairing – Beringer Pinot Noir

» Ingredients
Filling: One 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry; 1/2 cup shredded Fontina cheese; 2 Tbsp. fresh grated Parmesan cheese; 1/4 tsp garlic salt; 1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper; 6 8-ounce filet mignon steaks, 1 1/2 inches thick, brought to room temperature. Six slices lean smoky bacon; 2 Tbsp. olive oil; 1 tsp salt; 1/2 tsp fresh ground black pepper. Sauce: 1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter; 4 whole cloves peeled garlic, slightly smashed; 12 large fresh oysters, shucked, rinsed, drained and quartered. Juice of one half of a lemon; 1 tsp Louisiana hot sauce; 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce; 6 slices rustic bread, 1 inch thick; 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Fresh chopped parsley for garnish.

» Directions
Heat grill to high temperature. Combine filling ingredients. Slice a pocket into the side of each steak and stuff with spinach mixture. Wrap bacon around side and secure with toothpicks. Brush steaks on both sides with the oil, and season with the salt and pepper. Place the steaks on the grill and let cook until golden brown and slightly charred, about 4 minutes. Turn and cook another 4 to 5 minutes for medium rare (an internal temperature of 135 degrees F), or to desired temperature. Remove to a platter, tent with foil, and let rest. Meanwhile, in a medium saute pan on the grates of the grill or a side burner, over medium heat (turn down one burner), melt 1 stick of the butter. Add the garlic, oysters, lemon juice, Worcestershire and hot sauce. Cook until edges of oysters start to curl, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in remaining butter, one tablespoon at a time, to thicken sauce. Remove garlic cloves. Keep warm. Brush bread with oil and grill a few minutes on each side until lightly toasted. To serve, place one filet on each of six dinner plates (remove toothpicks). Spoon the oyster sauce over the steaks. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve with the grilled bread to soak up the yummy juices remaining on your plate!

The Deen Brothers Blackberry Head of State Steak

The Deen Brothers Blackberry Head of State Steak


The Deen Brothers Blackberry Head of State Steak

Tip: If you don’t have fresh blackberries or want to save some money, use blackberry preserves. Save the leftover butter mixture for pancakes the next morning.

4 tablespoons softened butter
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon
1/4 cup blackberries
1/2 teaspoon sugar
4 (8-ounce) beef tenderloin steaks about 11/2 inches thick
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

Combine the butter, lemon zest, and tarragon in a medium bowl until creamy. Finely crush the berries and sugar with a fork in a small bowl. Add the berry mixture to the butter mixture, stirring to blend well. Mound the butter mixture into small bowl; set aside.

Spray a grill rack with nonstick spray and preheat the grill to medium-high. Sprinkle the steaks with salt and pepper. Place the steaks on the grill rack and grill, about 5 minutes per side for rare or until desired doneness. Transfer the steaks to a platter. Let rest 5 minutes. Serve with the butter mixture.

Servings: 4
Prep Time: 10 min
Cook Time: 10 min
Difficulty: Easy

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Interview with Luca Guadagnino, Director of “I Am Love”

Jordan Wright
June 2010

Tilda Swinton in I AM LOVE

Tilda Swinton in I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

Italian film director, Luca Guadagnino’s latest film, “I Am Love” (“Io Sono L’Amore”), starring Tilda Swinton, is a social melodrama, written in the tradition of writers such as Henry James and F. Scott Fitzgerald.  An elegant cinematic foray into the private lives of the Italian aristocracy, it is both an exploration and exploitation of the triumphs and foibles of its characters and their enduring mystique.  Designed with voluptuous attention to culinary detail, the film uses the preparation of food and its cultural significance not only as a vehicle to define love, control and betrayal, but also as a means of self-expression, epiphany and passion.

Food from I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

Food from I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

Before the filming, a labor of love taking a decade to bring to the screen, Guadagnino tapped two-star Michelin chef, Carlo Cracco, to teach the actors how to cook.  Cracco, a progressive Italian chef whose Milan restaurant, Cracco-Peck, was selected for S. Pellegrino’s list of “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” in 2009, delved into the characters’ psyches to divine their individual aspirations and spirit, a practice he employs with all his customers.

“Cooking is, above all, communication, because it is where the magic of interchange may take place. It ties people together and unites them with this very fine and magical thread that is food,” Cracco elaborates.

The film, releasing this week, has already garnered recognition as the Official Selection of both the 2009 Venice Film Festival, the 2009 Toronto Film Festival and, more recently, the 2010 Sundance Film Festival.

In a conversation with Guadagnino, we spoke of food and its role in the film and in his life.

Jordan Wright – What are your earliest remembrances of food?

Luca Guadagnino – I have two memories about food.  The first one is that of my father in the kitchen.  I learned a lot about male identity from seeing my father cook.  He’s 78 now and still cooks.  He is an amazing cook.  So good!  And whenever I’m in Rome I go to my parents’ home to enjoy his cooking.

Pea soup shooters on the set of I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

Pea soup shooters on the set of I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

And then I remember when I was a kid I didn’t have cars to play with, I had little pans, and in Ethiopia, where I was raised, we had a garden.  One day I was picking peas and I brought them in the kitchen under the surveillance of my mother.  I asked her to put the peas on the fire because I wanted to cook.  Later when I returned to the kitchen nobody could find the pan and I never knew what happened to the peas.  This mystery of the disappearance of the peas is haunting me since.

JW – What do you miss or crave the most when you travel?

LG – First I miss my bed.  Well, basically my house is a plane…always!  But I miss tranquility and the routine.  I love routine, even food routine, like when you know what you want to eat, where you will purchase it and you know how to cook it.  The most enjoyable thing for me is to wake up, to do breakfast and then to go in the market to find the right groceries, the right vegetables, and cook.  When I’m home I shop every day or twice a day…once for lunch and again to prepare dinner.   But mostly, I miss my father’s food.

JW – What is your favorite dish?

LG – I like simple food.  I like a piece of fresh fish grilled with lemon.  And I like latte di mandorla.  You make a paste of the almonds and then dilute it with water.  It looks milky and it’s so sweet and refreshing.

Food from I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

Food from I AM LOVE - photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

JW – I want to talk about Emma’s loving preparation of the very complex fish soup, “ukha”, from her native Russia and the erotic nature that food plays in your film.  What did the “uhka” mean to you?  Was it a dish you were familiar with?

LG – We did a lot of research and discovered that the Russian cuisine was very much influenced by the French haute cuisine of the 18th and 19th centuries. There are very few complicated and specific Russian dishes and this is one of them.  I love the idea of the transparency of the broth and Emma is transparent, translucent and intense…like that broth.

JW – What do you consider the most sensuous foods?

LG – Maybe I’m being very parochial.  But for me, prawns are, and also the silkiness of some vegetables.

JW – Why did you choose the great Italian chef, Carlo Cracco, to design and prepare the food for the film?  Were you familiar with his restaurant and cuisine before you brought him on?

LG – I am a gourmet, so if I have money I go often to eat in great restaurants wherever I am.  I knew Carlo and I had been to his restaurant five or six times before asking him to do the movie with me.  I really like his food.  There is a great sensuality about his cooking and he is one of the most interesting European chefs.

This interview was conducted, condensed and edited by Jordan Wright.  Or questions or comments contact Jordan@WhiskandQuill.com or visit www.WhiskandQuill.com.

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Whisk and Quill Talks with Anthony Bourdain

Jordan Wright
May 2010

Anthony Bourdain author and  host of Travel Channel’s “No Reservations” is the consummate dinner guest.

Anthony Bourdain author and host of Travel Channel’s “No Reservations” is the consummate dinner guest.

As the host of Travel Channel’s “No Reservations”, Anthony Bourdain is the consummate dinner guest. An endearing enfant terrible, with a peripatetic wanderlust to rival Darwin and a puckish swagger that would make Bluebeard seem as docile as a clam, he slurps and sups the world’s melting pot in dogged pursuit of ethno-gastronomic delicacies. With cheerful I’ll eat-anything-you-put-in-front-of-me sangfroid, he lustily relishes fish brains, ant larvae, pig’s eyeballs, or sparrow liqueur and the like on his adventures to far-flung locales. For his endless curiosity he has garnered a devoted audience, three Emmy nominations and penned eight bestsellers, including the deliciously lurid ”Kitchen Confidential”.

In his latest memoir, “Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook” (HarperCollins), due out next month, he threatens to yank the delicate scrim off noted chefs. Alice Waters, David Chang, and “Top Chef” winners and losers will feel the sting of the provocateur’s barbs.

The gritty and endearing Bourdain, appears at the Warner Theatre on May 21st for one night only with cohort and chef/restaurateur, Eric Ripert of DC’s Westend Bistro and famed NYC’s Le Bernadin for an evening of tale-swapping and secrets of restaurant skullduggery.

In a recent interview he spoke to me about his life, his new book and his upcoming appearance in Washington, DC.

Jordan Wright – You take inordinate pleasure in poking the prevailing food fashionistas, uncovering the raw underbelly of restaurants, and snubbing the establishment. What propels you on to your next adventure?

Anthony Bourdain – I have a restless and curious mind, and as much as I might not like to face it, I’m probably becoming the food establishment at this point. But I do it because I can. It’s my nature. I get angry when I see abuse, and ecstatic when the experience is great.

I enjoy traveling. I like chefs and get paid to do what I like doing. And, thankfully, I’m not expected to behave or be diplomatic. I’m clearly very lucky and very foolish to do what I do and thankfully I can benefit from low expectations. With Eric [Ripert], he and I have a lot in common, but he has the burden of a reputation to protect and I don’t.

JW – Your independent take-no-prisoners style of writing is delightfully anarchic. What makes for a good food writer in your opinion?

AB – Certainly a willingness to step out of one’s comfort zone. If you’re writing about food, it’s very, very important to like and appreciate the people that make your food…also a lack of snobbery, definitely honesty, and to not be willfully disingenuous. If you really enjoy eating food I don’t think you have to know about food. That will come. But you should be passionate about it. Be an honest broker with an open mind and an open heart. I think some of the most dynamic writing on food is obviously coming off the blogosphere.

JW – The chimera is a fabulous fire-breathing monster with the head of a lion, body of a goat, and tail of a serpent. Would you eat it and how would you prepare it?

AB – If I were surprised by it as a guest in someone’s home in a developing country, I would accept it out of politeness, rather than offend my host. Though if I were to prepare it, I’d cook it low and slow with a bottle of good wine.

JW – You’ve eaten your way throughout the four corners of the world what fusion would you create that hasn’t yet been done?

AB – I’m generally not a fan, I think it’s dangerous territory. But two of my favorite restaurants are in New York, Momofuku Ko and Momofuku Saam, which use French, Southern American, Italian and Korean fusion. It’s utterly fantastic, perhaps because it breaks all the rules.

JW – There have been three books written about Louise Brooks. One is her autobiography in which she speaks of my grandfather as her greatest paramour. You said that Louise Brooks would be a preferred dining companion at your last supper? Why did you choose her?

AB – I enjoyed her autobiography “Lulu in Hollywood” and saw two of her films. I think she was a fascinating, and an extraordinarily forward-thinking and independent woman, especially for her times. She struck me as someone with interesting things to say and who would be a powerful presence at the dining table.

JW – On to the more mundane… What are your favorite restaurants in DC?

AB – Any restaurant that Jose Andres is associated with. I love Minibar! I love Michel Richard and Bob Kinkead’s place! Oh my God! Who am I leaving out? Oh, and El Pollo Rico! And Eamonn’s too in Alexandria!

JW – What do you cook at home?

AB – Cooking pasta makes me happy. Maybe a steak, but I like to use one pan and keep it simple. I have so little time to spend with my family. In NYC I just pick up the phone and I can order Japanese, Thai, Chinese, and French…or a human head delivered!

JW – What foods would you like to see more of in the US?

AB – I like bottarga very much and jamon Iberico. And I know it’s a dream, but more unpasteurized raw milk cheeses, especially really stinky ones from France and Italy…and artisanal sausages from Sardinia.

I’m a sushi slut, so, I’d say more high quality sushi…though maybe not, because of the over-fishing. As an institution I would like to see Singapore-style hawkers’ centers. That would be a great development for our country.

JW – What importance do you accord to ambiance, food, and service to define a successful restaurant?

AB – These days I like ambiance and service as unobtrusive and informal as possible. What I really appreciate at Momofuku Ko is you’re getting two-star Michelin food over a counter, directly from a cook who’s wearing a dishwasher’s shirt. That’s awesome!

I don’t need flowers and china and expensive silverware, unless you’re talking about French Laundry or Per Se. I am breathless with admiration for those two. But more often then not it’s about the food. If I’m comfortable without a tie, I’m more likely to be enjoying my food. I’d just as soon be in cut-offs and bare feet.

JW – You’ve experienced foods from cultures that no outsider will ever taste. Please choose from the following answers. If an ivory-billed woodpecker was struck by a car and lay by the roadside, as I was on my afternoon stroll, I would:

A) Try to revive it
B) Call the local bird rehabilitator
C) Fire up the grill
D) Go for the eyeballs first

AB – Call the bird rehabilitator.

JW – Oh my, you are a romantic!

AB – I like cute animals.

JW – What can you tell me about your new book?

AB – I am living in a state somewhere between suspended animation and mortal terror. It comes out June 8th and I have no idea how it will be received. I’m pretty sure there are going to be people pretty angry with me, but it’s too late to stop it now. Talk to me in two months! Right now I’m really looking forward to coming to DC to do this rare gig with Eric.

For tickets to “No Reservations: An Evening with Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert” visit www.WarnerTheatre.com

This interview was conducted, condensed and edited by Jordan Wright. For questions or comments contact Jordan@WhiskandQuill.com.

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Main Event Caterers: Going Green on the Catering Scene - Changing the World – One Party at a Time

The Georgetowner/Downtowner
From Wright on Food
Jordan Wright
April 2010

Chef/Owner Joel Thevoz of Main Event Caterers - photo by Jordan Wright

Chef/Owner Joel Thevoz of Main Event Caterers - photo by Jordan Wright

Swiss-born and raised, Joel Thevoz, hit Washington in the mid-80’s with a business degree and a briefcase full of fresh ideas. Coming off la vida loca in Costa Rica and Mexico, where his on-the-fly dinners were highly praised by friends and neighbors, he had decided to settle down to a serious culinary career.

With his wife and partner, Nancy Goodman, they launched Main Event Caterers in 1995 on K Street in Georgetown. Ten years later they were to bring their ever-expanding operations into Arlington, VA, where their stunning cuisine and lavish events garner rave reviews and an ever-increasing upscale clientele.

Main Event Caterers  - 2010 Caterer of the Year" award winner by Catering Magazine - photo by Jordan Wright

Main Event Caterers - 2010 Caterer of the Year award winner by Catering Magazine - photo by Jordan Wright

They ran their company like every other top-tier caterer until three years ago, motivated by Al Gore’s groundbreaking film, “An Inconvenient Truth”, they had a epiphany and took their successful company to higher level…one with a conscience…where green is the new black. It would hail a new dynamic for Main Event Catering and reflect their growing ecologic awareness.

Now in the vanguard of a new aesthetic, where style meets substance, this sophisticated caterer is a leader in the green revolution, as they continue to be recognized with a growing list of local and national green business awards that reflect their commitment and the calibre of their cuisine. To add to their accomplishments, this year they won the coveted “Caterer of the Year” award from industry giant, “Catering Magazine”.

I spoke with the passionately eco-knowledgeable, Joel Thevoz, and toured the 20,000 sq. ft. facility with its gleaming stainless steel demonstration kitchen-in-the-round, 25-foot floor-to-ceiling wine wall and extensive culinary library featuring a precious archive of leather-bound Gourmet Magazines dating from 1946.

Jordan Wright – How long have you been on the green bandwagon?

JT – We started out being aware of our impact in this world about 3 years ago. The Green Movement was just getting started here and, for us, that set the pitchfork in the ground in terms of thinking about what we do and how we do it.

There was one very impactful moment for us. It was a day when we were winding up after an event that used disposables. And at the time I was very proud of using the best quality plastics. I took a look at our truckload worth of waste and plastic garbage from this one event and I was literally sick to my stomach. I thought this stuff is going to last forever. What can we do better?

JW – What did you do to change your company’s way of doing business?

JT – That moment set the tone for a period of discovery. We wondered, “Can we find products that are biodegradable?” It was right about the time when cups made from cornstarch by-product became available. I had seen them used in an airport in England and brought some back with me.

For events using "disposables" - Balsa wood cutlery, palm frond plate and recyclable box from Main Event Caterers - photo by Jordan Wright

For events using disposables - Balsa wood cutlery, palm frond plate and recyclable box from Main Event Caterers - photo by Jordan Wright

But it was a real challenge to find these things in the US. We started digging around and discovered they were making plates from dead palm fronds in India. They are sandwich-pressed using steam into these flat shapes with a bit of curvature to make a plate. Then they are hand-scissored to size.

Finally we could eliminate all plastics from our catered service, and now we only use biodegradable palm plates, balsa wood cutlery, washable glassware and other biodegradable products for our events using disposables. Also we use purified water in jugs in place of mini plastic bottles.

JW – How do you recycle?

JT – We bring large recycling cans onsite, and all our staff is trained to separate out recyclables like paper, cardboard, tin, glass and plastic. Then it gets brought back here where we take it to the recycling center. It does add to the workload of an event, but we still do it effectively.

We also decided to add solar concentrators to the roof over the individual offices to bring in light and we are now replacing all our metal halide lights with T5 lights that use a minimal amount of electricity and are motion-sensitive. This way they shut off when someone leaves the room. The floors here are bamboo, the ice machines use filtered water and we clean and press all our linens to lessen our carbon footprint.

To be carbon-neutral we buy carbon credits to offset all the energy that is used, as with our trucks going to and from events. Also we calculated the approximate employee commute for the whole team and buy carbon credits to offset all those greenhouse gases, so that now we are 100% carbon-neutral. We’ve been doing that for three years.

JW – What other ways have you found to save energy?

JT – For one thing we compost our food matter to make high-quality soil that we distribute to our community, and we collect and store all of our used cooking oil, that we donate to a local biodiesel cooperative.

Also we wanted to subsidize wind power. So we purchase an equivalent amount of electricity from a wind farm. And though it is off-site, it gives us the advantage of being technically wind-powered. It tells the energy company that we are serious and we want to spend our money on clean energy…because unless you prove with dollars that there is a desire to purchase alternative energy, they won’t listen. We’ve seen how it creates momentum when a lot of companies get involved.

JW – Have you figured out how much more it costs to do business in this way?

JT – We have a general idea, and of course the start-up costs were quite high, but it is far outweighed by the amount of business we receive from clients that are like-minded. Companies and individuals who like what we are doing eventually gravitate to us and we feel rewarded.

We live happy and it has paved the way to the next stages in our development. It’s given us the knowledge and the confidence and introduced us to organizations that have things to offer us that are above and beyond anything else that we’ve done so far.

JW – What are some of the newest technologies that you’ll be using?

JT – Lately we find we are becoming a sort of incubator for green solutions.

Not long ago we had a visit from a gentleman based in Florida and began to talk about using geothermal. I mentioned how our dishwasher pushes out gallons of 180 degree water and it just goes down the drain. He told us we could divert it and harness it. Ultimately his company designed a product for us using heat exchange and we’ll be testing it here. The plan is to have it up and running in a few weeks.

In a nutshell we will be running “grey” water alongside the city water pipes to super-heat municipal water. The fresh and “grey” water don’t mix together. There are membranes between the two of them. But in this way we can take the 65 degree water from the county and introduce it through our ”grey” water cisterns before it goes into the pipes. Eventually it will raise the temperature of our instant hot water for our washing machines two-fold to 130-160 degrees. It will save us a lot on gas usage.

JW – Is that a cost to the city?

JT – No, we handle it all from here. We’ll build a tank and the city water will go right through it.

We’re also looking at placing these huge cisterns beside our buildings to gather and harness the rainwater from our roofs. Imagine! They can collect up to 40,000 gallons per month of water. What we want to do is use those tanks for latent energy.

We subscribe to a train of thought that the future of this world is based upon communities building vertical farming. We have these flat roofs here and we are in the process of designing a rooftop garden with greenhouses to grow all our own vegetables and herbs. We have at least 6,000 square feet of roof space. We want to prove that it can be done and share the plots with the community.

The greenhouse will be hydroponic and aeroponic which is a system NASA developed that uses an oscillator that is introduced into a water tank. You create a certain vibration and it renders the water into a mist. You can then push that vapor, with pressure, into a system of canals or closed chambers in which the roots of your vegetables thrive without soil. Every intermittent three minutes the pipes are filled and then flushed. It works like a rainforest. The plants grow at 2-3 times the speed.

JW- What about the “terroir” – the taste imparted to the vegetables from the soil and its minerals? Won’t that be missed?

JT – We can introduce that into the water by making a slurry from our compost and extracting the minerals out in liquid form to fortify the water, or we can buy organic feed to add to it.

Our last initiative will be to crush our glass and smelt it in kilns and create recycled glass slabs to use for platters and bowls. We are interested in inviting others, even our competitors, to see how we are doing this. We look to inspire others.

JW – What do you see for the future of catering?

JT – I foresee in the next few decades that we’ll move towards a more vegan and a more raw diet and a more healthful nutritious diet. So we’re making a small push to increase our vegetarian options and training ourselves to be better at cooking those options for our clients that want them, and for the future of our planet too.

This interview was conducted, condensed and edited by Jordan Wright.

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Interview with Chef Michael Harr Of the Gaylord National Hotel and Resort’s

Moon Bay Coastal Cuisine and Old Hickory Steakhouse
Jordan Wright
February 2010

Chef Michael Harr - photo courtesy of the Gaylord National Resort and Convention Center

Chef Michael Harr’s return to the DC area has landed him at the Gaylord National’s Resort and Convention Center to helm both the Old Hickory Steakhouse and Moon Bay Coastal Cuisine. Thrilled to have a chef with such star quality, the hotel takes a decidedly different turn in offering diners a more innovative and chef-driven dining opportunity.

Locals know the Gaithersburg-raised Harr from turns at the Watergate’s Jean-Louis, where the cooking bug bit him, Butterfield 9, the greatly adored and sadly missed DC restaurant, where he made his mark with his beautifully created and unique offerings, and at the former five-diamond Maestro Restaurant, where he worked alongside famed chef, Fabio Trabocchi.

Harr has held stages in France at a number of prestigious restaurants working with other noted chefs, Alain Ducasse and Guy Savoy. In Las Vegas he was Sous Chef to Jacques Vanstaden at the famed London Club, later worked in Montreal, New York and Miami as Executive Chef at Zodiac.

Old Hickory, which I reviewed last year, is a sophisticated steakhouse. It has an après dinner cigar deck, their very own artisanal cheese cave and one of the most beautiful dining rooms ever designed…a stunning Charleston-inspired setting with gorgeous views of the Potomac River.

Moon Bay, also reviewed here last year, feels like a coastal retreat, with a babbling brook flowing beside its deck, it, too, overlooks the Potomac. Surrounded by a lush tropical forest, it features creative seafood dishes. Harr’s French-trained background is an impressive new direction for these two top-drawer destinations.

In an exclusive first time interview with Whisk and Quill, Harr shares his vision for his latest adventure.

Jordan Wright – As an iconoclastic chef with classical traditions how will your style translate to accommodate two distinctly different restaurants…Old Hickory Steakhouse and Moon Bay Coastal Cuisine?

Michael Harr – As a culinary professional, it is important to appreciate many aspects of cuisine and the use of products available to us with every season. In this case, we have seafood and meats as the main focus. This amazing opportunity will allow me to focus on foods that I am passionate about. Such as local East Coast seafood as well as sourcing seafood items that wouldn’t normally be found on a general seafood restaurant menu.

For Moonbay, I envision it as being an adventurous outlet with the freshest of seafood as it’s main focus. My objective with the food is sustainably sourced, seasonality and driving personality…and keeping it simple and approachable.

For Old Hickory, I plan to incorporate classic approaches as well as “new-age” items with a modern twist. We hope to share our concepts to a clientele that can be adventurous and enjoy creativity within a steakhouse setting. Old Hickory is a gorgeous restaurant with an outstanding service. I’ve dined in many steak houses and Old Hickory stands out as an attractive destination that sets itself apart from the rest.

I would like to introduce seasonally inspired food items with creative choices for our composed plates. We are a steakhouse so our focus will be to offer great quality steak dishes, but I’m looking forward to incorporating some very interesting twists like “Chocolate Elk” (a dish that became my signature and gained notoriety at one of my previous restaurants) among others. My vision for Old Hickory is to make it one of the Capital region’s newly appointed destination restaurants that everyone must experience.

JW – How will you interpret your training in haute cuisine for the both restaurants?

MH – I have a very ambitious approach to our cuisine at the Gaylord National, with important goals to accomplish along with our executive leadership. My initial focus will be to bring the best local ingredients to our clients while enhancing overall food quality.

We currently have corporate contracts and, once they are approved for local sourcing, I will be able to develop a seasonal program that allows me to design creative and fun menus with local products. I believe “haute” is about quality, passion and foundation… in this way I am able to be successful in my mission to create the best for the clientele.

JW – What menu changes and local sourcing do you have in mind? When will the menu reflect these changes?

MH – I believe that all menus should be seasonal. Local sourcing can be significant with the amount of business that we produce. If we support the local farmers, we demonstrate our support for agriculture, renewable resources and local community.

In regards to menu changes, that’s a good question. We have to consider that we are in a corporate environment so there are many processes that must be followed. We will gradually implement the changes as we provide comprehensive training to our staff.

JW – Will you be using only sustainable seafood and from what sources?

MH – Yes, I would like to obtain sustainable resources as much as possible. As a local DC chef, I have many sources that I have used throughout the years. I will continue to use my vendors to source amazing seafood products.

JW – Who have you brought with you to execute your vision?

MH – We are currently evaluating our organizational structure, and we will strategically allocate our talent to improve operations.

This interview was conducted, condensed and edited by Jordan Wright.

DC and Alexandria residents can get to National Harbor by taking the Metro to King Street where a Gaylord Hotel bus shuttle at the entrance to the station runs every 30 minutes from 10AM till 10PM direct to National Harbor for $5.00 each way.

Ferry service from the Georgetown and Old Town Alexandria docks to National Harbor resumes in March. For more information visit:
www.PotomacRiverboatCo.com
www.GaylordHotels.com/gaylord-national/ and click on transportation.

For questions or comments about this article contact Jordan@WhiskandQuill.com.

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